My blast cabinet will be in the shed, about 25ft from the garage, where the compressor is. I was wondering if a 1/2 inch line is appropriate between the two buildings. I'm going to have connectors on both buildings.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Air line question
- Thread starter G19Tony
- Start date
stonesfan68
Well-known member
I'd go with 3/4-inch for this application.
sberry
Banned
How big is your compressor? But with common units found in gartages and sheds, most 5 or smaller a 1/2 at that distance to a cab will run 2x the air you can make. It would do it at 100 ft.A hose is a little less than a 1/2 pipe but available with factory ends in 25 and to tell the truth a 3/8 may work depending on nozzle size.
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The compressor is a 5hp 80gal CH.
pattenp
Well-known member
If this line is buried be sure to plumb in a drain leg in an in-ground box where you can purge any water that collects in the line. Also pitch the line to the drain leg.
OP . . . for your unique setup . . I would NOT use any air in "compressor room" for your blaster until that air had gone the whole 50 ft round trip (ie 25 ft from compressor room to garage, and back again). That will allow time for air to drop out most of moisture before it gets to sand blaster.
+1 to build drip legs (ie sloped buried airlines) so that moisture can be eliminated to ensure quality of dry air (ie N/A for freeze risk in winter for you in Las Vegas
). A couple 2" conduits (one each way) could have pex-al-pex so that you would have one continuous airline underground, yet have ability to pull out a bad line and replace without digging up the entire trench. I'd use 3/4" each way.
Good luck setting up your airline system between buildings.
Let's SEE pic of that 80 gal compressor !!
NOTE: My idea above is assuming that compressor is out in the "shed" along with the blast cabinet. If instead, what you're saying is that compressor is in garage, and ONLY blast cabinet is out in shed, then attach the buried section to shed AFTER the entire copper or black pipe steel airline system so that blast cabinet is the farthest thing away from compressor.
+1 to build drip legs (ie sloped buried airlines) so that moisture can be eliminated to ensure quality of dry air (ie N/A for freeze risk in winter for you in Las Vegas
). A couple 2" conduits (one each way) could have pex-al-pex so that you would have one continuous airline underground, yet have ability to pull out a bad line and replace without digging up the entire trench. I'd use 3/4" each way.Good luck setting up your airline system between buildings.
Let's SEE pic of that 80 gal compressor !!
NOTE: My idea above is assuming that compressor is out in the "shed" along with the blast cabinet. If instead, what you're saying is that compressor is in garage, and ONLY blast cabinet is out in shed, then attach the buried section to shed AFTER the entire copper or black pipe steel airline system so that blast cabinet is the farthest thing away from compressor.
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astroracer
Well-known member
Running a 1/2" hose out to your blast cabinet, from the compressor that is in the garage, will work just fine. My blast cabinet is set up this way and it lives in the shop. A 25' hose that is used when ever I plug it into an outlet that is on the wall 4' from the cabinet. Never had an issue. Make sure you have a regulator/filter, at the cabinet, that your feeder hose will plug into.
Mark
Mark
OP . . . for your unique setup . . I would NOT use any air in "compressor room" for your blaster until that air had gone the whole 50 ft round trip (ie 25 ft from compressor room to garage, and back again). That will allow time for air to drop out most of moisture before it gets to sand blaster.
+1 to build drip legs (ie sloped buried airlines) so that moisture can be eliminated to ensure quality of dry air (ie N/A for freeze risk in winter for you in Phoenix
Good luck setting up your airline system between buildings.
Let's SEE pic of that 80 gal compressor !!
NOTE: My idea above is assuming that compressor is out in the "shed" along with the blast cabinet. If instead, what you're saying is that compressor is in garage, and ONLY blast cabinet is out in shed, then attach the buried section to shed AFTER the entire copper or black pipe steel airline system so that blast cabinet is the farthest thing away from compressor.
I'll get a pic up tonight. The compressor is in the garage, and the cabinet will be in the shed. I don't think I want to bury any lines.
That's kind of what I have in mind. An outlet on the outside of the garage to an inlet on the outside of the shed. I'm going to get a desiccant dryer with another filter and put it next to the cabinet.
akdiesel
Well-known member
Another vote for a removable hose. Unless you are doing this day in and day out the need for a buried line will be troublesome.
You will need to find out how much cfm your media cabinet uses to figure out the size of hose to feed it.
You will need to find out how much cfm your media cabinet uses to figure out the size of hose to feed it.
^ ^ ^ ^ That will get the job done !! 
Since you're in Las Vegas, NV . . . the "bury" of line could actually be 6 inches underground in gravel. Many "yards" in Phoenix have no grass at all anyway . . . just rock yard. You could just use 21 ft stick of 3/4" black pipe steel with a coupler and another 5 ft stick of black pipe steel. In Vegas, that would probably last several lifetimes !!
IDEA for your moisture drain of that "buried" black pipe steel airline, slope the line little downhill towards shed and put sprinkler system-style valve box (ie the green plastic) over the last connection in ground. Put in ball valve WITH Relief. Every so often you could pull cover of sprinkler box, close ball valve, and open thumb screw for relief and dump some air to push out any water. Whallah !!
Put hydraulic hose on last few feet into shed for the 90 degree turn, plus also provide a lightning break in the steel line (ie only segment that is all steel would be buried portion in gravel in yard). Do same on compressor side using hydraulic hose for flexibility and lightning break/protection.
Since you're in Las Vegas, NV . . . the "bury" of line could actually be 6 inches underground in gravel. Many "yards" in Phoenix have no grass at all anyway . . . just rock yard. You could just use 21 ft stick of 3/4" black pipe steel with a coupler and another 5 ft stick of black pipe steel. In Vegas, that would probably last several lifetimes !!
IDEA for your moisture drain of that "buried" black pipe steel airline, slope the line little downhill towards shed and put sprinkler system-style valve box (ie the green plastic) over the last connection in ground. Put in ball valve WITH Relief. Every so often you could pull cover of sprinkler box, close ball valve, and open thumb screw for relief and dump some air to push out any water. Whallah !!
Put hydraulic hose on last few feet into shed for the 90 degree turn, plus also provide a lightning break in the steel line (ie only segment that is all steel would be buried portion in gravel in yard). Do same on compressor side using hydraulic hose for flexibility and lightning break/protection.
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sberry
Banned
Poke a hole in he wall so the hose will reach if you are going to use one, no reason to add a couple extra sets of fittings.
I have double the air and use a 1/2 pipe about 20 ft to a 25 ft 1/2 hose to a sand pot.
I have double the air and use a 1/2 pipe about 20 ft to a 25 ft 1/2 hose to a sand pot.
sberry
Banned
You could use 3/8 with that unit. You will never really notice the difference, its cheaper and its a common hose. It would be different if this was at a commercial paint shop. Make it easy on yourself.
I'm just going to drop a hose between the buildings. I want to make it as easy on myself as I can.
FFRKing
Well-known member
I have a 48" pressure pot blast cabinet and a 5 hp 60 gallon single stage compressor. The airline goes from the compressor to about 35' of 1/2" black pipe across the garage, thru a Harbor Freight water trap. I then connect a 50' 3/8" air hose, because that is what I have, to the cabinet. I have no problems with lack of air, other than I may have to stop for a few minutes to let the compressor catch up.
Chris
Chris
^ ^ Your 35 ft of black pipe steel in garage is principal reason you have less water getting to blast cabinet. If some more distance could be covered with black pipe steel (instead of rubber hose), you'd have even drier air.
OP idea of rubber hose laying outside on 100 degree soil between buildings will not work out so well. He'll need a desiccant dryer at end of rubber hose if he wants dry air.
Firebird 1
Well-known member
A quick connect at each end with a rubber hose will be fine. Put another regulator/water separator just before the blast cabinet. I have run over 100' to my barn to spray with no problem. We use a couple hundred feet for each gun when roofing and framing. I know the cfm is different but you will not exp. pressure loss if that's what youre concerned about. btw, I like the floor tile under your comp. I have used lots of that in commercial kitchens.
This is going to be a pretty light duty setup. I was planning to have a desiccant dryer/filter and regulator just before the cabinet anyway. During the summer, you work in the early am or late pm. If it doesn't work out, the black pipe will get the call. I just want to make it easy on myself.
Thats what I have planned, a QD and a hose. A desiccant dryer/filter/regulator setup will be just befor the cabinet. The anti vibe tiles work great for the compressor. It's a fairly quiet compressor to begin with. The tiles only help.
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Beemer533
Well-known member
Why, because around here, bigger is ALWAYS better when it comes to airlines! Why bother running 1/2 when 3/4 or 1 will fit...
Oh, and added reserve is never a bad thing.
Why, because around here, bigger is ALWAYS better when it comes to airlines! Why bother running 1/2 when 3/4 or 1 will fit...
Oh, and added reserve is never a bad thing.
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing!
sberry
Banned
I am all for having adequate tools but the obsession to go 2 or more sizes bigger than it requires often holds people back, adds to cost for nothing. It would work just fine till it ran out of air with 50 ft or more too.
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing!
Since it sounds like you're ready to REALLY put in black pipe steel pipe now . .
. . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . I've found you suitable . . single piece . . . of pipe between buildings !!
This 26 ft stick should get the job done !!!
Attachments
sberry
Banned
I am not scared to dig a ditch. I hate moving sections of hose but this sounds pretty low duty cycle.
Since it sounds like you're ready to REALLY put in black pipe steel pipe now . .
. . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . I've found you suitable . . single piece . . . of pipe between buildings !!
This 26 ft stick should get the job done !!!
haha!
The hose on the ground is going to have to work for me. It's the lowest cost and labor option. It's going to be low duty cycle. I'm powering the shed with an extension cord from the garage. So, I'm already moving cord. A few feet of hose won't be a bother.
sberry
Banned
This is really the old age question about tools, when is it worth it? I did a job a while back, started with a dozen, maybe 14 sprinklers and as many hoses. We can run half at a time. The second season I modified the pressure a bit and moving a short hose to other hydrants became tedious. I eventually increased the length to allow a bit more movement, use a couple less hydrants and gained a pressure increase and had to tend only about 60% the same equipment to do the same work, less made it way better.
Air systems are often similar to water, you got it where you use it and don't need hydrants every 4 ft.
A trunk and branch type system to reduce pressure drop in a small shop is a waste. The distance is close and a 1/2 pipe will supply 2x the demand any 1 operator could use. The comp cant support more than that anyway, on a sandblast or rotary tool a 3/8 line will have that unit out of wind fast, having a bigger pipe helps a pinch with cooling but doesn't make more air, in fact helps waste it for the most part, a little restriction in the line slows up delivery, less violent starts on the tool. Any more delivery than the power you need is wasted, especially true with sandblast, regulation helps a lot.
Air systems are often similar to water, you got it where you use it and don't need hydrants every 4 ft.
A trunk and branch type system to reduce pressure drop in a small shop is a waste. The distance is close and a 1/2 pipe will supply 2x the demand any 1 operator could use. The comp cant support more than that anyway, on a sandblast or rotary tool a 3/8 line will have that unit out of wind fast, having a bigger pipe helps a pinch with cooling but doesn't make more air, in fact helps waste it for the most part, a little restriction in the line slows up delivery, less violent starts on the tool. Any more delivery than the power you need is wasted, especially true with sandblast, regulation helps a lot.