Air Lines for Compressor

[weems]

Hey Guys. I recently required a Husky, 60 gallon, ~10.3cfm air compressor. Its not the best, but I feel more than adequate for me. I have attached a picture of my proposed pipe placement. I am thinking of using 3/4" Galvanized pipe for the project. I will be adding a water/oil separator when I do this. I have a 25' 3/8" air line reel that i will be hooking this up to in the middle of the garage.

A couple of questions. First, I placed dotted lines and question marks at the beginning of this project. Do I Need/Should add a drop here? I'm still trying to understand the whole process of separating the water from the air. I know it needs to be cooled to properly work.

I have placed letters A-D in the picture to figure out where I need to place the Water Separator or any other "cheap" items. I do not want to spend too much on this as I am more of a weekend warrior/poser to the garage.

 

[weems]

Also, it is about 6' to the top of the ceiling from where it comes out of the tank, 4' over to the back wall, 13.5' over, and then 11' to the center of the garage.

 

[pattenp]

What are you going to be using the air for? Mainly running air tools, inflating you tires or are you going to do any painting?

 

[jasonreck71]

I only use a water separator on sand blast cabinet. I know that I "should" use one for my other tools. I have been using the same set of air tools now for about 12 years with zero issues. I oil them regular and am sure to drain my tank regular. I would consider myself a step above a weekend warrior, my air tools get a good bit of use I guess I am trying to say...I picked up my separator from HF
_______________________________________________________________

Check out my BLOG

 

[weems]

air tools and change tires. Most LIKELY would not use it to paint, but you never know...

 

[weems]

does it matter where I place the seperator (i.e. A,B,C,D?)?

 

[trboxman]

You'd be fine with just using black iron pipe. Galvanized isn't recommended for use as an air line.

 

[930dreamer]

Come out of the compressor tank with a piece of hydraulic hose (flexible) going to a Tee. Install your piping from there with a drain off the Tee and run the rest of the piping as far away from the compressor as you can. I installed the regulator/water separator etc at the end my black pipe just before my quick connects.

 

[jshillin]

I have a shutoff right off of my tank followed by the separator and then a flex hose to the wall where I have a tee. One side of the tee is a regulator then an output and the other side of the tee goes to copper and I have it ran to the center of the garage to my hose reel. I'd suggest copper over cast because it looks like you have an easy run and can put together most of it on the ground them hang it.

 

[Chetter]

You'd be fine with just using black iron pipe. Galvanized isn't recommended for use as an air line.

Why is galvanized not recommended for use as air? Just curious since I was planning to use galvanized as well when I run my hard lines for my compressor since I figured black pipe would rust inside. Just curious and it would be good to know before I do my garage.

 

[weems]

Thanks, that helps alot. Pictures are great visuals!

 

[mattrogers]

Hey, I have that same Husky air compressor. I have some pictures of what I did for my filter/regulator set-up and distribution in my garage thread.

Like previously mentioned: have a flexible line from the compressor to a tee, one leg down to a drain, one up to the rest of the plumbing. I'd try and put the water separator as far away as possible, to allow cooling time and to let the water condense out (the separators don't work on moisture!) My filter is about 25' away from the compressor. It looks like that'd be fairly close to the hose reel, in which case, it'd be on the ceiling. If that's where you put it, I'd recommend putting the regulator somewhere you can actually get to easily: perhaps right next to the compressor outlet, then.

Since you're going to all this work, and you have a workbench right underneath the proposed line, why not add a tap directly next to your workbench, too? It's nice to have air everywhere.

Also: use unions. At least one on each side of the filters/regulators so you can easily remove them if something needs to get replaced.

 

[pattenp]

Why is galvanized not recommended for use as air? Just curious since I was planning to use galvanized as well when I run my hard lines for my compressor since I figured black pipe would rust inside. Just curious and it would be good to know before I do my garage.

The issue is galvanization can come off the inside of the pipe, clogging separators and regulators. But I would think rust inside of non galvanized would do the same. I used the aluminum piping system.

 

[eriksalo]

I did tons of research before plumbing my shop for air. I have about 700 feet of tubing and 8 drops through the shop area.

For pipe material:

PVC: Don't use PVC. It seems like a good idea (cheap, easy and rated to like 250 psi) until you hit it with something a few years after install and it explodes. Happened to my friend.

Galvanized: I've heard galvanized pipe is bad because the galvanization comes off and clogs up your tools.

Black Iron: Black Iron is a good solution. However, it's relatively hard to install if you don't have a threader and all those thread connections are a potential leak. Black pipe will work and is a good solution. Black pipe does rust over time and you might have some issues with rust getting in the tools.

Copper: Copper is a great solution and is what I ended up using. It's easy to work with and I've had my ~700 feet of air lines installed for a few years with zero leaks. I think I had 200-250 seperate connections and only one leak. Copper is getting expensive but it's a good solution. Durable and safe.

Plastic for Compressed Air: I don't know if it has to be blue but I'm talking about TransAir or Topring or the like. These are plastic products made specifically for carrying compressed air. Many have quick connect fittings. This stuff isn't cheap (I don't know how it compares to copper) but it does work great. We did my work with this recently when we moved to a new building and boy was it easy to use. Very reliable and safe. If I were to do it again, I think I might use this. It sure was a snap to install.

Regarding the routing, I generally followed this template for how I laid out all my air lines:

​

http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

While I routed my air in the above manner, in practice it was WAY overkill. I get no water in the lines whatever (I do live in Colorado so it's pretty dry) so all those little traps I made were a waste. I think it was a waste of time and caused me to have to do MANY more joints than I needed to. the next time I will just put a water trap next to the compressor.

Good luck!

 

[weems]

do you mind posting up pictues of your setups?

 

[SteveU]

do you mind posting up pictues of your setups?

This is what I have, approx 45" of 1" black pipe. I barely get any water in the filter, less than 1 drop so it works well.

<a href="http://s277.photobucket.com/albums/kk54/SteveU_/?action=view&current=FamilyPhotos0506642.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk54/SteveU_/FamilyPhotos0506642.jpg" border="0" alt="Air pipe setup, That's an 8' step ladder for comparison."></a>

 

[weems]

what regulator is that?

 

[socapots]

so is the overall length the most important part. Or is it the shape of the setup. Reason i ask is this is not the first time ive seen a picture with the line going from the compressor, then up, down then up again.
Im new in all this and trying to figure out what would be the best for my needs as well.

 

[mdbeck1]

so is the overall length the most important part. Or is it the shape of the setup. Reason i ask is this is not the first time ive seen a picture with the line going from the compressor, then up, down then up again.
Im new in all this and trying to figure out what would be the best for my needs as well.

Actually as the air moves down the line it cools down and water will condense. So the longer the pipe the more water will collect. Copper will speed up the heat transfer. More pipe will create more distance.

 

[socapots]

Actually as the air moves down the line it cools down and water will condense. So the longer the pipe the more water will collect. Copper will speed up the heat transfer. More pipe will create more distance.

ok. I get what your sayin.
good to know about the copper.. I got some i am planning on using in my setup.

 

[eriksalo]

For this job, you might be satisfied with this quick to install kit. "Rapidair Master Kit." Eighty nine bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015A11U2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Torque1st]

I use galvanized pipe for my airlines without any issues. Black pipe is the standard material called for in mechanical codes but in my climate there always seems to be rust issues. Even galvanized will rust at fittings but the zinc coating seems to help.

Plastic kits are OK for a quick blast of air now and then but people tend to use air more often when they have it available so your use may increase. Doing it right the first time is always a good option.

 

[darkk]

I just put a water separator right at the tank outlet. Been that way for years. I drain the tank every day after I'm done using it. Actually I just leave it cracked enough to seep all the time...

 

[akdiesel]

The loop system length of pipe as shown in the picture is doing just that cooling down. But it also takes up a lot of wall space. You can get the same result with simply using a smaller air tank as a knock out drum that is down stream of your main air tank. This allows the warm air to cool down when doing the JT effect, thus giving you the same results. This is a much cheaper and takes up less space.
There is also other pipe options people don't think about. That is stainless. Not that much more than copper and a much better pressure rating, easier to install, and much easier to add more to it later down the road.

 

[socapots]

so when you say smaller tank.. You mean like a 7 gal or something like that?

 

[Chetter]

After doing some more research on the Rapid Air, I like their Maxline Master Kit #3800 which is a more durable hose that has 3 layers of products to gice it more pressure rating as well as being able to bend it and it will keep its shape due to the aluminum layer sandwiched between the other materials. Price is 200.00 for the 1/2" kit which has 100 ft of the line and all necessary fittings and hardware. I like the bendable feature and ease of installation.

 

[Torque1st]

After doing some more research on the Rapid Air, I like their Maxline Master Kit #3800 which is a more durable hose that has 3 layers of products to gice it more pressure rating as well as being able to bend it and it will keep its shape due to the aluminum layer sandwiched between the other materials. Price is 200.00 for the 1/2" kit which has 100 ft of the line and all necessary fittings and hardware. I like the bendable feature and ease of installation.

The problem with 'kits' containing specialized fittings and tubing is getting parts for maintenance or expansion a few years from now when the system or parts are obsolete. I have been burned a few times and learned the hard way.

 

[A**holes Garage]

I just installed the RapidAir, Airnet system. Easy installation and no leaks.

http://www.rapidairproducts.com/pdfs/airnet_flyer.pdf

 

[SgtRauksauff]

I actually put a home-built water separator between the compressor and the tank. That's where the air is the hottest, and has the most moisture in it. This way, the air getting into the tank has a lot less moisture, and then when it goes into the black pipe, it's even more effective at reducing temperatures and dropping out water.

I've got a tire changing machine (Hunter TC3500) that I want to keep as moisture-free as possible. I used to be able to see water vapor out the end of a blowgun, but now i never get any droplets or anything showing up in the catch-cans of the filter/regulators.

here it is on the original compressor, a quincy QT-5 that ended up having ruined pistons,and rods.

The hose I used is some high-temp 3/4" jackhammer hose, that slides over a 1/2" pipe with some work.

I don't really have a nice picture of it in its current installation on a QR-25, plus I'm in the process of moving it to my new garage anyways.

I'm just running 1/2" pipe, because I got around 40 feet of it for free, although I think with the length in my new garage it'll be at the borderline of needing 3/4", as the tire changer uses "approximately" 12CFM somewhere between 115-145psi.

My uncle, back in the 80's, when he had a small 1-man body shop, had an approximately 6-foot-tall 2.5" black-pipe column that he used for the same thing, when he was painting.

I really like the looks of copper and stainless steel, but black pipe radiates heat and drops moisture better than either one.

--sarge

 

[59 wagon man]

here's the tips i use and never have a problem even in south fla's 95% humidity
1- put a ball valve exiting the tank
2- run into a tee with a drip leg shoot the top as close to the ceiling
3- pitch this away from the compressor, not much pitch is needed
4- drops come off the top off the run uses some extra fittings but it is very important- point the tee towards the ceiling and drop down with elbows
5-end of the main run is for a drop with a drain valve only to drain the moisture

 

[911mike]

I just installed the RapidAir, Airnet system. Easy installation and no leaks.

http://www.rapidairproducts.com/pdfs/airnet_flyer.pdf

Any tips you can give on installing Airnet? I just bought a grand of it.

 

[A**holes Garage]

Any tips you can give on installing Airnet? I just bought a grand of it.

Solicit a volunteer or two to help. Extra hands come in handy when laying out and installing sections on ceilings especially.

Make sure that you cut the pipe long enough to "seat" against the stops on every connection, (elbow, coupler, etc.). I believe you have to add 2" to every connector for the "seat".

When installing, snug all fittings as you go.

If you get the brackets for the ceilings and walls, mark, drill and install them them before snapping in the tubing if possible.

When transitioning form the ceiling to the vertical wall, allow for the bracket height on the vertical wall.

By 1-2 tubes more than you think you need.

Use some Joy dish washing liquid or other lubricant to "juice" up the O rings and tubing when inserting into the connectors.

 

[akdiesel]

so when you say smaller tank.. You mean like a 7 gal or something like that?

That would work. Also a 5 gallon. Simply something to drop the pressure coming out of the main tank to help cool it.
And if you have an auto drain on your main tank you can simply connect the smaller tank to the upstream side of the drain valve.

 

[socapots]

hm.. Thats a good one. May have to look into it.

 

[machine_punk]

That would work. Also a 5 gallon. Simply something to drop the pressure coming out of the main tank to help cool it.
And if you have an auto drain on your main tank you can simply connect the smaller tank to the upstream side of the drain valve.

I've been thinking about that very solution for reducing water in my system. I'm thinking about finding an old truck air brake cylinder for this purpose. They come with NPT ports at all the right places and would be easy to insert into the system.

 

[akdiesel]

It is best if you can have the air enter on the side and exit from the top to your piping system and then have a drain on the bottom of course.
I have this exact system installed in mine and I have no water. I do not have a trap or filter as of yet (plans for them in the future for painting), but it serves the purpose for removing water as some of the other systems ie... loops and coolers do as well.

 

[Dragster Racer]

That would work. Also a 5 gallon. Simply something to drop the pressure coming out of the main tank to help cool it.
And if you have an auto drain on your main tank you can simply connect the smaller tank to the upstream side of the drain valve.

Wouldn't the pressure in the small tank be exactly the same or only lag slightly depeneding on restriction, as the large tank?
I also saw listed by someone that copper doesn't radiate heat as well as black pipe. I think I need to go back to engineering school.

 

[akdiesel]

When the system is static all of the components will be the same pressure except for those controlled through a regulator. So as you start to flow through it, regardless of regulators, there will be a pressure drop in the larger bore areas ie the tanks.
As for copper, iron, and stainless, I am not sure which has the best properties for cooling.

 

[911mike]

Wouldn't a thinner wall tube like copper disipate the heat faster than the thick solid pipe like black or galv. pipe? I would think the thicker pipe would help insulate? Now the other side of the story is the thicker pipe would stay cooler long and help cool the air at first but once it gets to temp it would go back to insulating? I'm glad drinking beer isn't this complicated.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

SgtRauksauff - could you post more info on that cooler? Thx!