The best way I found is to add a drip "tail" to every drop. My typical drop is 5' of 1/2" pipe, gate valve, a short piece to a T, 12~18" drop and another gate valve. I blow down the drops once in a while.
All my drops have a drain below them.
The best way I found is to add a drip "tail" to every drop. My typical drop is 5' of 1/2" pipe, gate valve, a short piece to a T, 12~18" drop and another gate valve. I blow down the drops once in a while.
Personally if price is not important, I would do all black pipe. But I already have plenty of Pex tubing left over from a massive plumbing upgrade and addition to our home so that's what it's going to be...
Please do not use PEX or any other form of plastic or PVC pipe material for compressed air. This is a disaster waiting to happen. The oil in the compressed air stream will eventually break down the plastic material and cause it to explode- like a grenade!
... now your talking my language ... polished inside for FDA Approval and Certification ... we have used the orbital machines and boroscopes ... we use in Wyeth and Barr Labs.
Disaster? What disaster? Where do you guys get this **** from? Pex is a plyable plastic, it is not PVC, it won't explode, possibly spit but I seriously doubt that. My son in law is a plumber and his garage has been piped with pex for years without any failures. The local building inspector required me to charge the water system with air to pass the pressure test. I seriously don't see an issue here...
I agree that the Pex should not be a problem and I did entertain the idea of using Pex myself but in the end I decided to go with the black iron because I thought it would cool the air better. I am not well educated on the subject by any standards and that is just my personal opinion. There are many options to consider and black iron is what I thought would be best for me. I also considered running all of the lines inside the walls as we were framing them up at the same time the air lines were going in. It would have looked much cleaner but I was afraid I may have a leak in the future or maybe want to modify the lines so I decided to run them on the outside. When I realized that the lines would need spaced out from the walls a little, I did not want to use wood blocks so I searched a little and decided to use unistrut. It comes in several different thicknesses and you can even stack it to get exactly the spacing you need. It holds the air lines very solid and worked really well for me. Here is a pic and good luck to the OP whatever he decides.
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Holy cow! My compressor vibrates, but that is impressive.![]()
That is compliments of my crappy Ryobi camera, lol. I spent most of the morning building an awning to cover the compressor out of 1 inch square tubing and some left over tin from when the shop was built.
Holy cow! My compressor vibrates, but that is impressive.![]()
He waited thirty years!![]()
Going to be an awful lot of wet homes if PVC fails also.
Are you in a warm climate? My tank drain valve would freeze if it were outside.
Going to be an awful lot of wet homes if PVC fails also.
The condensate that collects in the receiver is a mixture of water and oil which usually does not freeze real hard and damage things. Just try to keep it drained out.It does get below freezing here in Northeast Arkansas but only about 2 to 3 months out of the year and even then it's usually not a constant hard freeze. I have several friends that have their compressors outside and when asked they all indicated that it wasn't much of an issue for them so I went ahead and stuck that sucker outside.
