Air lines
- Thread starter grabeb
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Copper, rapid air, black iron and pex (if you can protect from UV), are all common options. Lots of guys just run rubber hose along stuff like electrical conduit, too.
Don't get sucked into loops or thinking the piping is extra storage.
Some info on size and layout may help
Don't get sucked into loops or thinking the piping is extra storage.
Some info on size and layout may help
finn
Well-known member
I have probably 90’ of 3/4” black pipes installed by the previous owner. I need to run air another twenty feet to the back room where I do most work, and then along those walls so I can relocate the media blast cabinet.. I won’t do black pipe or copper. Too much work and planning when there are so many inexpensive, easy to install pex/al kits on the market now. I don’t relish the thought of cutting and threading black pipe.
I have a couple of leaks at joints in the black pipe unions or tees. I have put off fixing them because they are 20’ in the air, where the system crosses the door, and I don’t like working on ladders.
I have a couple of leaks at joints in the black pipe unions or tees. I have put off fixing them because they are 20’ in the air, where the system crosses the door, and I don’t like working on ladders.
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Yes, yes, yes, and yes!
It depends on your abilities and tool availability.
Black pipe you will want access to a threader. You can do a small amount by measuring it out and having the pipe cut and threaded at a home store. To install galvanized is pretty much the same as black pipe, but coated. And the old wives tales of galvanized flaking off is B.S.
Copper is great if you can solder. Fairly simple once you get the hang of it and tools are a propane torch, cutter, wire bruses to clean fittings and common tools.
PEX is fine too, but look for the higher rated PEX and don't run it outside because most of it is not UV rated. Cheap and easy to repair, tools are a cutter and tool to compress the rings, depending on the type of PEX and fittings.
I used copper in my shop . easy to work with .
I used 1/2" galvanized pipe. At each of my 3 drops I used an ARO filter and/or regulator. My garage is typically not heated nor cooled 24/7. As the seasons change here in the midwest, you sometimes get moisture build up on metal. Right or wrong, I figured the galvanized pipe was better for corrosion in those circumstances.
katit
Well-known member
Copper here, and it's inside a wall. I used blue (gas rated?) 3/4 pipe.
I have it going to 2 garages and basement. Air access from anywhere
I have it going to 2 garages and basement. Air access from anywhere
ALinCarolina
Well-known member
I have a combination of copper and Rapidair Fastpipe. One small section of Maxline. I have no experience with using Pex for air. In my garage shop before I built my present workshop I had iron pipe. I would never go with that again since the alternatives are easier (for me) and no worry about rust etc.
haveissues
Well-known member
I had a bunch of 3/4 pex left over. Ran a ring around the top of the walls and put in drops with 1/2 pex. Super easy to work with and fast to modify.
red94chev
Well-known member
Rapidair Maxline for me, flexible and easy to run exactly where you need and easy to expand later if necessary.
racecougar
Well-known member
I like PEX/AL/PEX like RapidAir Maxline, as it's cheap, won't contaminate the air (no opportunity for rust), looks good, and is easy to install.
txvwnut
Well-known member
I was given a bunch a 1/2 galvanized pipe that had been previously run as airline in another building so it had most of the needed fittings and still had couplers attached so I used that. I bought a cheap import hand held pipe threader to aide in the install when I needed to cut a pipe to a different length. Probably pull all that out this year sometime as I want to add another hose reel and relocate the other and add some line drops upstairs, most likely will use a Rapid air kit when I do for ease of install.
danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
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a mix of copper and maxline for me. I use the copper and a radiator as apart of my cooling/condensing pre-tank, and then maxline to get to my hose reels.
Regardless of the piping size and material, you should consider air drying. I had limited space, unconditioned, and just used rubber hose to go from the compressor to a distribution manifold and hose to a hose reel. I did have (2) in line dryers but they did not remove enough moisture for things like painting and sand blasting.
If you run copper or iron so that it will drain it will help considerably. I am not sure about the rapid air type systems (some are insulated aluminum).
If you run copper or iron so that it will drain it will help considerably. I am not sure about the rapid air type systems (some are insulated aluminum).
I did mine in black pipe after removing the PVC I originally used. I found a pipe vise at a swap meet for $6 and then bought the HF pipe threader kit.
1/2 in. - 1 in. Ratcheting Pipe Threader Set, 5 Piece
Amazing deals on this 1/2In To 1In Pipe Threader Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Granted it was cheaper at the time and I'm pretty sure I used a 20% off coupon at the time. It's not the best threader but it worked enough to get the job done. It owes me nothing.
engineer2
Well-known member
Copper. Easy to work with, lasts forever, no rust in the lines like with BIP.
Copper is expensive nowadays, so rapid-air or similar might be cheaper.
Copper is expensive nowadays, so rapid-air or similar might be cheaper.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
Another one for the MaxAir kit. It is essentially PEX-Al, but in a kit. The convenience for me was why I went that way instead of copper or black pipe.
toyotadriver
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2010
- Messages
- 1,586
I'm a fan of copper. I like a run up from the compressor with a ball valve for a drain at the bottom. I used 3/4 for the initial run. The air hits a filter and then runs up. Then, run the 3/4 to where I intend to tap off it. Then, connect 1/2 pipe to flow up and to the locations where it's needed. All my runs are in the ceiling and run to air hose reels. I have 3 reels in the shop. I have a ball valve for a drain at the end of the 3/4 inch line but have never gotten any water out of it. I drain most of the water from the 60 gallon tank and then get a little more water at the filter. Once past the filter, I don't get any more. I might get some more if I used air really heavily like for a sandblaster or similar but for my normal uses, my air is plenty dry.
Nothing in this post should be misunderstood, interpreted, misinterpreted, or construed to be of a political nature.
Nothing in this post should be misunderstood, interpreted, misinterpreted, or construed to be of a political nature.
racecougar
Well-known member
Same story here. My air exits the tank, hits a filter, then heads off around the shop to various drops. I have a water trap and ball valve at every drop, but I never get any water at them.
Another thing that really helps is providing conditioned (lower humidity) air to the compressor. That can be a big downside to sticking the compressor in a shed outside the building.
LopezBart
Well-known member
local prices from Home Depot:
10' 3/4" black iron pipe - $32.34. (likely available for less elsewhere)
10' 3/4" copper pipe (M) - $31.64
10' 3/4" PEX tubing - $7.98 ($5 in 100 ft rolls)
Prices for steel are kind of whacky.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You do need to protect pex from UV light, but it's a ton of money saved
I buy pipe from a local pipe supplier. Box stores are the worst (most expensive) places you can buy pipe.
nadogail
Well-known member
In my little shop, the air lines are hoses threaded through the framing. They can both be seen and reached.
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finn
Well-known member
Probably no pipe suppliers within 250 miles of me.
fourjeepin
Well-known member
I ran PVC before I knew better. It lasted about 8 years until it broke. I replaced it with PEX. It was super easy and very inexpensive as I already had the tools.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
What pex is explicitly rated for air?
No Page Found - fix-my-compressor
fix-my-compressor.com
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That "article" even states pex is not rated for airNo Page Found - fix-my-compressor
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'm not saying not to use pex. I think it's fine. Just wanted some clarity when you said air rated pex
ALinCarolina
Well-known member
Wiz02
Well-known member
Shouldn't there be some drains in the copper radiator?
ALinCarolina
Well-known member
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
If I was to plumb out a large garage for air I would definitely use black pipe.
My garage is only 20x30 and I don't use air much. My compressor is in the rear room of the garage with a splitter - one line goes to the back door of the garage for the mower, the other line goes along the wall to the front corner of the garage by the driveway. Both of the "permanent" air lines are the stiff PVC air hoses that never roll back up, no other use for them. Then my good rubber air hoses are on hangers to get rolled out and used.
My garage is only 20x30 and I don't use air much. My compressor is in the rear room of the garage with a splitter - one line goes to the back door of the garage for the mower, the other line goes along the wall to the front corner of the garage by the driveway. Both of the "permanent" air lines are the stiff PVC air hoses that never roll back up, no other use for them. Then my good rubber air hoses are on hangers to get rolled out and used.