WHat are your opinions on air lines in a 40 x 50 shop? I have a new 5hp 80 gal Quincy compressor. I was thinking of a hose on a real from the center of the roof that would probably reach anywhere I need to. Should I use pvc or something else? Overyhtinking it onb my part maybe? what are your opinions? thanks
Air lines
- Thread starter seabass
- Start date
PAToyota
Well-known member
Search - it has been discussed ad nauseum multiple times.
PAToyota
Well-known member
Searching for "airlines" turns up quite a few results just on the first page - including ones about PVC.
I'll steer clear of the PVC part. But 40x50 is a nice shop and a Quincey is a nice compressor defiantly needs more than single air hose reel in the center..
More like 2 or 3 reels and a few disconnects located around the walls for a shop of that size..
The main pipe choices are to use copper, black iron pipe, or aluminum. Copper is quick and easy (though read up on the threads of soldering vs brazing), iron is cheaper for larger diameters but needs to be threaded, and aluminum is easy and looks awesome but is very expensive.
More like 2 or 3 reels and a few disconnects located around the walls for a shop of that size..
The main pipe choices are to use copper, black iron pipe, or aluminum. Copper is quick and easy (though read up on the threads of soldering vs brazing), iron is cheaper for larger diameters but needs to be threaded, and aluminum is easy and looks awesome but is very expensive.
scott37300
Well-known member
There is a TON of great info on this site about air compressors and running lines.
What are you going to be using, sand blasters, impacts, etc.? There are a ton of things to consider-getting condensation out of the air, filters, size of pipe, type of pipe, pipe fittings, drip legs, etc, etc, etc.
Don't use PVC, I have seen what happens when it gets hit by something. Use a flexable hose like a high pressure hydralic hose from your compressor to the lines. You want a good distance of metal pipe to cool the air before your filters to get all the moisture out of the lines. There are lots of things to consider, best thing is to read for hours on this site and then ask specific questions.
Here is a good link to running lines. http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf
What are you going to be using, sand blasters, impacts, etc.? There are a ton of things to consider-getting condensation out of the air, filters, size of pipe, type of pipe, pipe fittings, drip legs, etc, etc, etc.
Don't use PVC, I have seen what happens when it gets hit by something. Use a flexable hose like a high pressure hydralic hose from your compressor to the lines. You want a good distance of metal pipe to cool the air before your filters to get all the moisture out of the lines. There are lots of things to consider, best thing is to read for hours on this site and then ask specific questions.
Here is a good link to running lines. http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf
Let's see some pictures please.
v7guy
Well-known member
I'm running copper in my garage just because it seems to be the most durable and easily modified material available.
I personally would never use PVC.
I personally would never use PVC.
djd99
Well-known member
Black pipe or copper or copper and black pipe either one will be fine just don't use pvc for safety reasons. I have 1/2 black pipe in my shop and it's been fine for everything, I sandblast, paint pretty much anything you want.
78Bird
Well-known member
If it were me, I'd do a loop around the whole shop in 3/4" or even 1" copper, and install drops with moisure traps, drains, and a regulator/filter at several good points, depending on your layout and use. If you like, a hose reel or 2 would be nice as well.
Copper is the easiest to modify later if you want additional drops as well as being an excellent heat transfer material, it will pull heat from the air the best to force moisture to fall out for draining instead of going to the tools.
Copper is the easiest to modify later if you want additional drops as well as being an excellent heat transfer material, it will pull heat from the air the best to force moisture to fall out for draining instead of going to the tools.
Licensed to kill
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2010
- Messages
- 61
Rather running the main line high on the wall with a drop and moisture trap. drain at each disconnect, why couldn't the line be run low and have risers for your disconnects. Make the main line at a slight slope so any moisture collects at the end then just have a single ball valve at the end to drain the whole system.
Gus_Mahn
Well-known member
It's probably worth the trouble to take the air off the top of the line and add some slope with low point drains. I plan on using 3/4" sweated copper pipe in my shop.
4StarCstms
Well-known member
I just did all of mine with Copper too. Pricey - but it'll be worth it in the end
Alaric.H
Well-known member
I installed this a year ago and no problems and no leaks so far.
http://www.rapidairproducts.com/rapidair.asp
http://www.rapidairproducts.com/rapidair.asp
usdemt
Well-known member
Anyone ever thought of using PEX pipe? It would be fairly cheap, and super easy. IIRC its rated at around 150 psi at 70 degrees F.
When I did mine I used black steel pipe, copper is just so expensive and I wasnt confident in soldered connections at 120PSI. I also had free and easy access to a pipe threader.
Dont forget if you go with steel avoid galvanized as it can flake off and run into your air tools. .. .not good.
When I did mine I used black steel pipe, copper is just so expensive and I wasnt confident in soldered connections at 120PSI. I also had free and easy access to a pipe threader.
Dont forget if you go with steel avoid galvanized as it can flake off and run into your air tools. .. .not good.
PontiacFan
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2007
- Messages
- 102
Transair-usa.com, Powder-coated aluminum tubing.
Take the fittings out of the box & push them on. Screw brackets to the wall. Done.
Or Garagepak.com (Same stuff, but for the consumer.)
I've done numerous implement dealer buildings, industrial shops, farm shop buildings, etc., etc., & I love it.
It's like a kid playing with Lego's all over again!
Take the fittings out of the box & push them on. Screw brackets to the wall. Done.
Or Garagepak.com (Same stuff, but for the consumer.)
I've done numerous implement dealer buildings, industrial shops, farm shop buildings, etc., etc., & I love it.
It's like a kid playing with Lego's all over again!
Dragster Racer
Well-known member
Pex is fine from my experience. Some fittings are better than others. The HF kit is pex, and I didn't care for their fittings.
RbrtAWhyt
Well-known member
Now you've done it. Prepare for the pending assaults from the "PVC will explode and kill you" crowd...
Dragster Racer
Well-known member
Wait for it. Waaait. I hear the alarms now.
mayday0017
Well-known member
Eh why not, I'll be honest I'm in here reading because I'll be running lines in a couple weeks and want to do a good job with out spending very much money. I have heard stories about PVC exploding, but have also seen it used SEVERAL times with out any problems.... I"m considering using it because it is quick and easy with low cost, and none of my lines will be exposed. If it explodes oh well, just gotta repair it 20min and $5 later I'm back up and running.....
scuba0459
Well-known member
I did mine in PEX and everything has been fine for a couple of years. I have a compressor with a desiccant dryer so I have no moisture concerns. The dew point of my dryer is -40. Pex is easy to work with and quite inexpensive
AJ1978
Well-known member
Great Topic, I completed my run back in August. With all the ideas and insights of my previous thoughts and the help of this forum.. I ran all black iron line, 1 because I had most of it and 2 best bang for the buck. I spent more time thinking on it, tha running the lines, well I had a helper, because of space and time limitations. From my compressor, my lines start in 1" going up the wall 10 feet, the into the crawl space, the first 30 Foot is 1" I used alot of UNIONS for ease of repair, and additions. The run continues 80 feet to the front in 3/4" I came out of the wall with a T and have provisions to run across. I used 3/4" all along the walls of the shop, I took the supply from the top and used 90 and 90 st el, then used a bushing into 1/2" Placed a valve, then came with a drop, a TEE for air out the front etc, and a drain below, I have NO WATER in the lines at all, Everything is running down hill towards lowest end, IF using black iron use UNIONS TAKE your time, do it right, and if your lucky lots of hardware store trips.
AJ1978
Well-known member
OH YEA! I stayed away from PVC... I have a friend who ran it in his parents garage years ago. they havent had any problems, but with age, and the risk of burst, In regards schedule 40 PVC is cheap, but what is your eye, or someones injury worth if something fails and launches PVC Schrapnal everywhere
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
The "pressure rating" for PVC is for water ONLY. PVC is not allowed by code or the manufacturers themselves for compressed air. Check any manufacturer's website and literature.
Using PVC for compressed air is like wiring your home with zip cord. It is cheaper, but your house may burn down.
Do it RIGHT the first time.
Using PVC for compressed air is like wiring your home with zip cord. It is cheaper, but your house may burn down.
Do it RIGHT the first time.
akdiesel
Well-known member
Torque1st,
It is amazing how many times you and others have to repeat the dangers of using certain products for certain jobs.
I understand there will always be new people coming around or some that have never really experienced topics generated on this site before, but if this site (Please Ryan, and I have said it before) could simply put a Sticky Section regarding safety concerns with a simple reason for it, then those who need to reserch can find it easier instead of bogging down the site with repeated arguements.
You will still get the people that refuse to wear a seat belt because they don't want to be trapped in the car (hypothetical situation) and try to sway people in their beliefs.
As stated you CAN use what ever you want to (freedom of choice) but with all of the personal and OSHA findings, is it worth the cost of your / others safety?
It is amazing how many times you and others have to repeat the dangers of using certain products for certain jobs.
I understand there will always be new people coming around or some that have never really experienced topics generated on this site before, but if this site (Please Ryan, and I have said it before) could simply put a Sticky Section regarding safety concerns with a simple reason for it, then those who need to reserch can find it easier instead of bogging down the site with repeated arguements.
You will still get the people that refuse to wear a seat belt because they don't want to be trapped in the car (hypothetical situation) and try to sway people in their beliefs.
As stated you CAN use what ever you want to (freedom of choice) but with all of the personal and OSHA findings, is it worth the cost of your / others safety?
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
People never learn...
"Buy them books, teach them to read, and all they do is chew on the covers."
Or more up to date:
Buy them computers, teach them to use them, and all they do is chew on the mouse.
"Buy them books, teach them to read, and all they do is chew on the covers."
Or more up to date:
Buy them computers, teach them to use them, and all they do is chew on the mouse.
saabman
Well-known member
PVC gets brittle when cold and can shatter from impact. Also as Torque1st says, it is not rated for Air. Look at your amortized cost for black iron or copper. Either of these will last a very long time. And during that time you will have piece of mind.
Dragster Racer
Well-known member
I think the pvc thing gets blown out of proportion, but I wouldn't see much reason to put it in if you are starting from scratch. Too many other good options that are easy and shouldn't break the bank.
stellar91
Active member
I'll be running black pipe or ridgid conduit. The PVC arguments have merit but after reading several discussions on potential "de-galvanizing" I also have semi-dismissed these "Don't use this product" warnings. Don't get me wrong ,I like a good value (pvc cost)and consider myself cheap on select things, but in the end , it's your shop. Install what you feel comfortable with.
Licensed to kill
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2010
- Messages
- 61
Rather than PVC do as someone suggested in another thread, use plastic air line used in heavy trucks. It's dirt cheap, easy to work with and is made for the job.
chief ben
Well-known member
My shop is 26 X 50 and I have a hose reel with 75 feet of 3/8 air line on it that works great but I wanted a shorter hose at the other end so I didn't have to reel up 75 foot every time I was working at the other end of the shop, So I had a lot of Bule 3/4 200 psi water line left over so I run it in the over head of the shop and put a Ball Valve at each end, and I added another Air filter at the end, so I now have 3 yes three Air filters in my Line before it gets to the Plasma Cutter, And the Plasma has a Air Filter on it, I have never had a problem with my air system untill yesterday, LOL
My Hose Reel started leaking, I think it needs new O-Rings, But All and All I have had no other problems,
My Hose Reel started leaking, I think it needs new O-Rings, But All and All I have had no other problems,
ripsnortMN
Well-known member
Not trying to stir the pot here but have any of you guys personally known of a person who experienced a pvc failure? For using it for compressed air.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Yes, there are several of us here on the board who have seen PVC pipe fail in a compressed air application. It's been covered many times in previous threads.
Someone mentioned using electrical conduit, it may work but it's not designed for compressed air use either.
Someone mentioned using electrical conduit, it may work but it's not designed for compressed air use either.
crewchief888
Well-known member
i saw it happen in the 1st dealership i worked at back in '83.
one of the perimeter 2" pipes broke, whipped across the shop, hit a 220 lb mechanic across the back and took him to his knees, and also put a nice dent in his brand new MAC top box.
when we changed locations at the dealership i work for now, i was in charge of getting the steam cleaner, air compressor, welding outlets ect. taken care of as we were moving in.
everything was going fine until i was told to run approx 400ft of PVC for airlines.
an argument started with the VP of operations, i eventually won, and ran all the airlines in black pipe. any "flex" parts we needed we made from 2 wire hyd hose.
the systemhas been there over 10 years, and has never leaked
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I have personally had a PVC airline fail a foot from my face, and the only thing that saved me was a 2X4 that was directly between me and the piping. Plastic shards went everywhere else across the shop. No more for me.
RJ
PAToyota
Well-known member
Another one who has seen the damage from shattered PVC and realized what that would do to a body if it had been there.