So here's another relevant question...Anyone's air prep stuff (filtration) rated for 175psi? What I'm getting at is a lot of industrial stuff is rated at 0.9 MPa ~~=~~ 130psig.
I'm just assembling some filters this week (Master Pneumatic - Detroit) and those are 150psi rated. They are going to run on the tank pressure/line pressure so that is important to me.
I had to dig quite hard in my component pile to find gages that are 150psi rated for showing the 130psi tank-pressure. I have some very nice Ashcroft gages but those are only 100 psi so they have to be used past a regulator.
I've worked in large industrial plants for ~25 years now and none of them ran over 110psi. My thought on it is: leaks. If you leave your air compressor "on" (energized and waiting for the pressure switch to drop) its eventually going to cycle in the middle of the night or when you don't expect it. Its excellent to chase leaks in the name of saving on your electrical bill but those pesky quick connector bodies are the worst. You can of course disable the compressor motor to allow just 1 tank of air to be lost.
I have to take technical issue with the thought that the compressor is more efficient by running it up to the 175psi limit. A good mechanical analogy is a tractor pull where the tongue weight slides forward (denoting back pressure/tank pressure rise) and increasing the HP needed to continue work. The last few feet of tractor pulling isn’t an efficient process. To pull the same linear distance, it would be more efficient to stop halfway, reset the tongue weight, and continue on, which is a back to the analogy of lowering the tank pressure and running the motor on 2 cycles instead of one.
The compressor is built for this, for sure, and a few hundred cycles isn’t going to kill it…but at the end fo the day I’m the person out at the end of the rope paying for everything involved, the electrical energy, the initial cost of the compressor, etc. My take is to check all of the boxes in trying to get what I need by minimize my long-term costs.
Some people are very threatened by the difficulty of adjusting the pressure switch, but its hardly a thing. One removes power, opens the cover, takes a hollow shaft nut driver or deep socket, and loosens the nut a few turns to relax the spring, then restore power and run the compressor a cycle and see where it stops. As long as power is off while adjusting and the over-pressure relief valve(s) are working then its hard to make a mistake.