I'm purchasing a Quincy air compressor and currently installing the Rapid Air piping system. I'd have one line going to my hose reel, and the other to my blast cabinet. I'd like to put in shut off valves, but not sure if I should install them before or after the filters. Any advice would be appreciated.
Air shut off valves
- Thread starter WWShop
- Start date
steel 35
Well-known member
Before, maintenance on the filter.
I would put at least one valve coming out of the compressor to shut the system down.
Put as many valves in as you want, easier to do now. Like Steel says, before filter.
Do you have a flexible line going from the compressor to the hard line ?
Put as many valves in as you want, easier to do now. Like Steel says, before filter.
Do you have a flexible line going from the compressor to the hard line ?
pancho400cid
Well-known member
I put small 1/4" valves at the bottom of the vertical runs in my piping to drain water out of the lines. I get a little now and then.
I put a 3/4" ball valve at the compressor tank outlet so in theory I could isolate the system, which does leak down over time. In practice I don't do it. I just turn off the compressor... or listen to it run once overnight when I forget to even do that.
Putting in a bunch of isolation valves as if a small shop set up was a big industrial distributed air system is a waste of money.
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I put a 3/4" ball valve at the compressor tank outlet so in theory I could isolate the system, which does leak down over time. In practice I don't do it. I just turn off the compressor... or listen to it run once overnight when I forget to even do that.
Putting in a bunch of isolation valves as if a small shop set up was a big industrial distributed air system is a waste of money.
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Metal-Marc
Well-known member
racecougar
Well-known member
I run a large ball valve at the outlet of the compressor tank which isolates the entire system downstream. I also install ball valves at each drop, such that the hoses at each drop are isolated unless in active use. I've seen what a hose will do when it fails under pressure; I don't want a whipping hose to smack anything of value (particularly one of my vehicles) in my shop.
When I'm not present, all valves are closed and the contactor for the compressor is "OFF". When I'm using compressed air, the contactor is "ON", the ball valve at the tank is open, and the ball valve of whichever drop I'm using is open.
I also drain the tank every day.
When I'm not present, all valves are closed and the contactor for the compressor is "OFF". When I'm using compressed air, the contactor is "ON", the ball valve at the tank is open, and the ball valve of whichever drop I'm using is open.
I also drain the tank every day.
Metal-Marc
Well-known member
Is that a PVC line?
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Multiple valves may be handy, but they're also multiple locations for potential leaks. I agree with the idea of a single shutoff valve for a home system.
racecougar
Well-known member
Under the compressor? No, it's steel.
If you're talking about the photo, that's 3/4" RapidAir Maxline. It's aluminum sheathed in PEX inside and out (PEX-AL-PEX).
jonesg
Well-known member
I have a 1 car garage, I have 3 rapidaire outlets.
One is located at the garage door for airing up trailer tires without having to pull into the garage.
Another outlet is above the car and the 3rd is at my workbench, no need for hose reels or long hoses.
Its a decent kit , I still have enough hose to do another garage.
The biggest improvement was to change over to hi-flow air fittings on all my air tools.
jonesg
Well-known member
the rapidair I installed isn't a hard line like copper, no whip was needed.
the bigger semi rigid sizes might call for it.
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Depends how big the home system. 1-2car vs anything larger or separate areas.
I have a valve at every hose reel. If I'm working and have a hose failure, I can shut off that reel and source air from another drop or reel.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
I have quick disconnects at every "permanent" device. If the downstream component fails, I pop the coupler, and move on.
racecougar
Well-known member
That works, but if we're worried about potential leaks, a QD is far more likely to leak than a ball valve.
karoc
Well-known member
When using shutoff valves if under psi slowly open them instead of hitting your filters, regulators, etc with all that psi at once. I did it once which cause my regulator to start leaking
I would have a flexible hose going from the compressor to the hard line, and then more flexible hose going from the hard line to hose reel/cabinet. That's the plan anyway.
oldmachinenut
Well-known member
I really overthought it, I did all of the above.
racecougar
Well-known member
One more question - I think I've heard that the filter should be a minimum of 25 ft run from the compressor. I have a spare 25 ft hose, so could I coil that up next to the compressor and put the filter right after the hose?
pancho400cid
Well-known member
I think the theory is the air has cooled down to around room temperature when it gets to the filter and the filter will trap water better. I personally think hose might be too restrictive for high demand loads like blasting. I used 3/4" copper and ran it up then over then down then back up to the filter to get some length (not quite 20' though) before the filter. Kinda expensive and probably overkill... which is my M.O. Works great though. I've done some blasting with a portable, but not a lot. My compressor pretty much runs constantly, when doing so, but no moisture issues.
Wrench97
Well-known member
I find it best to put shut off valves at all the drops where air lines come off that way if you break a hose or hose end it's a quick shut off while the hose is whipping around like a pissed snake............................