z28toz06
Well-known member
Guys, I am building a garage and hoping to install a compressor. I saw a segment on horsepower tv about some modular tubing for air supply system. WHat are you guys using? Did anyone else see it?
AIr system
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kartracer55
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Yeah I saw it, They installed the blue quincy compressor with the fancy intake silencer right?
The modular stuff is VERY expensive compared to copper or black pipe, and I dont know how it holds up in the long term. Just use copper like, fittings are easy to get, and if you ever want to add on to your system, you dont need to track down the manufacturer of your modular air system.
Jim
The modular stuff is VERY expensive compared to copper or black pipe, and I dont know how it holds up in the long term. Just use copper like, fittings are easy to get, and if you ever want to add on to your system, you dont need to track down the manufacturer of your modular air system.
Jim
Fort94Z
Member
It might have been garage-pak system you saw. It's a aluminum pipe system. I'm also looking at it.
www.garage-pak.com
www.garage-pak.com
kartracer55
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Nah, That modular stuff is *extruded* aluminum tubing... BIG$$$ and the couplers are also pretty comlex. Its cheaper (but a bit more challenging) to do copper, and its better looking than black pipe.
jim
I stand corrected
jim
I stand corrected
79rallysport
Well-known member
Technically its extruded Al.
eschoendorff
Well-known member
bmwpower said:
MAPP torches are the s4it! I love mine. BTW... how many psi will those soldered joint hold to?
kartracer55
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More than anybodys air system will see, even using 50/50 lead solder.
http://www.copper.org/resources/pub_list/pdf/soldering_brazing_ads.pdf
scroll to page 7
I believe the reason 95/5 is recommended is because it is holds up to vibration a bit better than 50/50, as well as the higher pressure. Dont hold me to it though, im not an engineer
Jim
http://www.copper.org/resources/pub_list/pdf/soldering_brazing_ads.pdf
scroll to page 7
I believe the reason 95/5 is recommended is because it is holds up to vibration a bit better than 50/50, as well as the higher pressure. Dont hold me to it though, im not an engineer
Jim
kartracer55
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bmwpower said:
Yeah 95/5 is pretty much what everybody recommends. IF you have O/A you can braze them and there wont be any question, but mine is 95/5 and the guys over on hobart recommend 95/5, because it can be done with Propane or MAPP
Jim
motorheadjohn
Well-known member
Just get some lead-free silver bearing solder. It will work for your air lines or your home plumbing, and you never have to keep track of which one is not OK to use on the plumbing. The cost is not that big of a difference and to me it's simpler just to keep one kind around.
I fooled around with a MAP cylinder for grins and giggles. It puts out a lot more heat that you need to sweat copper...which might affect the properties of the thinner pipe if you leave it on there too long, or if you overheat it while you're working on heating a brass fitting? I used it to overheat some pipe just to see, and it will turn it glowing red real quick...not something you want to do. I would also be concerned working next to drywall or wood. If you're careful, I'm sure you'll be fine, just poing out that MAP is somewhat overkill and propane is all you really need to get the job done.
I did my entire air system at both the old house and the new one, two hot-water heater installs, and rebuilt the pressure regulator / shutoff main feed into my old home...all with propane and silver bearing solder. I have more than 2/3 roll of solder left and the propane cylinder is still going strong.
One thing I would highly recommend is the Benzomatic TS4000 self-lighting torch. It will cost you about $40 from Home Depot, but it's much nicer than fumbling with matches or a cigarette lighter. Basically, you just turn the knob and click it, and you are lit. It's a one-hand operation which is nice if you're working up on a ladder or in an awkward situation. It will work with both propane and MAP cylinders. Here's a link - http://cgi.ebay.com/BERNZOMATIC-TS4...ryZ46413QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I fooled around with a MAP cylinder for grins and giggles. It puts out a lot more heat that you need to sweat copper...which might affect the properties of the thinner pipe if you leave it on there too long, or if you overheat it while you're working on heating a brass fitting? I used it to overheat some pipe just to see, and it will turn it glowing red real quick...not something you want to do. I would also be concerned working next to drywall or wood. If you're careful, I'm sure you'll be fine, just poing out that MAP is somewhat overkill and propane is all you really need to get the job done.
I did my entire air system at both the old house and the new one, two hot-water heater installs, and rebuilt the pressure regulator / shutoff main feed into my old home...all with propane and silver bearing solder. I have more than 2/3 roll of solder left and the propane cylinder is still going strong.
One thing I would highly recommend is the Benzomatic TS4000 self-lighting torch. It will cost you about $40 from Home Depot, but it's much nicer than fumbling with matches or a cigarette lighter. Basically, you just turn the knob and click it, and you are lit. It's a one-hand operation which is nice if you're working up on a ladder or in an awkward situation. It will work with both propane and MAP cylinders. Here's a link - http://cgi.ebay.com/BERNZOMATIC-TS4...ryZ46413QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
motorheadjohn said:
This is exactly why I bought the MAPP gas bottle... it came with the TS4000. I was going to buy a propane tank since I'm used to propane, but the instructions said the TS4000 is only to be used with MAPP gas (since it's regulated differently). Unless I read it wrong. The link you posted says similar.
motorheadjohn
Well-known member
Very interesting. The link says "for MAPP gas". It doesn't use the word "only" or warn against using it on propane. And neither does the Bernzomatic website...but that doesn't mean it's OK to assume compatibility, either.
I don't have my original packaging, so I'm not 100% sure what it said. I bought mine separately, along with a cylinder of each, and do not recall any warnings against propane on the TS4000. But I could have overlooked it. I will swing by HD or Lowes and check out a new one in the packaging since the Bernzomatic website does not specifically forbid using it with propane.
Here's some information on a comparison of gas types - http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/gasTypeComparisons.jhtml The website marketing sections show MAPP being used everywhere propane is...and more. The comparison chart doesn't show MAPP as that much hotter than propane but it seems like a different animal when you light them.
Here is an online listing, in the Product Description it states it can be used with Propane or MAPP, but then it probably wasn't the manufacturer who wrote the description http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008ZA09/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I don't have my original packaging, so I'm not 100% sure what it said. I bought mine separately, along with a cylinder of each, and do not recall any warnings against propane on the TS4000. But I could have overlooked it. I will swing by HD or Lowes and check out a new one in the packaging since the Bernzomatic website does not specifically forbid using it with propane.
Here's some information on a comparison of gas types - http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/gasTypeComparisons.jhtml The website marketing sections show MAPP being used everywhere propane is...and more. The comparison chart doesn't show MAPP as that much hotter than propane but it seems like a different animal when you light them.
Here is an online listing, in the Product Description it states it can be used with Propane or MAPP, but then it probably wasn't the manufacturer who wrote the description http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008ZA09/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I just finished my copper airline install and used a propane "Benzomatic" on my 80+ joints. I could see where the auto-start torch would be nice, but I did not want for more heat at all. Propane really seemed to be plenty. Even my brass ball valves (much thicker and heavier than "L" copper) only took a minute or so to heat up. (I read to sweat connections to ball valves with the valve open so as not to heat-damage the seals. Don't know if that's true or not, but it makes sense to me.)