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alignment issues with door/window framing

JM211

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2014
Messages
5
Location
Wausau, WI
Hoping I can get some help here on this. The garage is 2x4 framing except where the garage is against the house; it is 2x6.

The builder/original owner was lazy on finishing the garage. 1 mud layer over drywall, at best. No taping but proceeded to paint walls bluish. Painted over nails without mud.

Anyways, I am redoing it all and mudding it. I am having a hard time determining if it's normal or not, and a work around.

The main door framing is not even with the drywall so there is no standard way of installing trim. I removed 2x2 trim that had like 2 inches of caulk to cover the gap to the drywall.

the back door is framed as 2x6 in 2x4 studs so it protrudes out passed the studs.

The window doesn't seem right either.


I want to not replace if I can avoid it but I don't want to jerry rig it like the second owner did.

I can get more pictures if it helps. Really need some feedback here!
 

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nmk_61802

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Mar 6, 2008
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965
Location
Central IL
Window and doors are fairly normal. Rip down 1x stock as needed to extend the frames out to the drywall or create window ledges at the doors and window which are not out to the drywall edge, then fasten your trim or brickmold as required. Alternatively, you can also attach the ripped strips to the trim, however I like it at the frame as once caulked and painted it appears seamless.

For the extra deep door to make it look correct without adding lathe strips to that entire wall, I think replacement is the only option.
 

APEowner

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Oct 2, 2009
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4,164
Location
Sunny, New Mexico
I agree with nmk on the windows and doors. On the deep door I'd nail the trim to the door frame and then rip filler pieces the got behind the trim to fill up the gap back to the drywall.
 

Voi

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Oct 10, 2010
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5,139
Location
Western South Dakota
I've purchased jamb extension from our local Pella distributor before and it was really nice quality and was pretty much the right size for what I needed. I don't recall what I paid but after driving around looking for suitable stock to rip down I was happy to pay it.

I agree that there is probably something that can be done to trim out that 2x6 door. I wouldn't replace it unless you want a different swing, window, or whatever.
 
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dwaynesmithz

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Apr 3, 2014
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4
Location
Austin, Texas
The framing just need to repair, means you don't need to replace it. On the gap on the drywall you just simply need white cement to fill the gap and once it was painted it will look like as part of the drywall but before you work on the gap. Check the frame of the door if you can push it more to make it proportion to the front and back door. Based on your pictures provided it seem it could be possible to repair it. Cheers!
 
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Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
Only thing I see is that it looks like the door isn't flush with the outside siding. I'd cut that out and make sure it was plumb and flush (if possible) with the outside wall. Cut to fit and hammer to stick all the inside stuff. Windows are normal depth. You can use 3/4 thick or make 1/2 thick wood to trim from the windows back the the inside wall, ripped to the required width. Shoulda been with me finishing the old house for sale - kitchen, two bedrooms, hall way, back door, bath, laundry room, walk in pantry, baseboards - all finish trim custom cut and ripped from 3/4 pine, probably 1000 board ft or better. Not a damn thing plumb or square in that house and modern doors, windows, etc don't fit well in a 1926 edition house.
 

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
The window is no problem. Just install a drywall return with corner bead.

July28003.jpg


2 different doors with 2 different problems. On the raised panel door install a jamb extension to bring the jamb flush with the wall. On the other you're going to have to get more creative. If you drywall the wall you will gain a 1/2" to 5/8. On top of that you could snuggle up a piece of brick mold to the side of the jamb. You may have to rip some furring strips for behind the BM to bring it out flush with the jamb.

wp4b091c9d_06.png


You could even set one of these on its edge.
 

6768rogues

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Nov 28, 2007
Messages
4,524
Location
Western NY
If the jamb isn't big enough, make an extension jamb.
If the jamb is too big, you can add a filler to the back of the casing. It might look a little funky, but it works and you won't have to change the window or fir out the wall.
 
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