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All block garage insulating suggestions.

redyute

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Sep 28, 2013
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southern md
Ok in the process of tearing down my 24x24 garage and rebuilding it in all block, with my man cave upper level in wood, I plan on extending it 10' deep and 6' wider making it 34x30. In floor radiant heating is what I think I will go with for heat. Been a certified auto tech for 14 years up till 3 years ago, I now work at Washington dc transit authority as a train mechanic so my garage will be used for auto repair and fabrication. (im into drag racing). Gonna have 12' ceilings to accommodate my lift with a half ton pick up truck with ease. So question is what do I do for insulation cause I would love to have the block exposed and just painted but I know this would probably not be good for winter time, so im just open to ideas, throw some in guys.

This is what she looks like right now
 

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Ironcrow

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I built a 2x2 stick frame inside mine and used spray foam insulation. Water radiant heat. Are you sure 12 feet is adequate? To allow space for lighting and roll up door clearance with my lift, I found closer to 13 feet for the ceiling.
 

Nowater

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Southwest Florida
Pay close attention to air infiltration as that can render insulation useless. How will you seal the roll-up door, around windows, and any other opening? Is your door insulated?

Once air infiltration is handled, I would suggest insulating the exterior of the block wall to include the mass of the block inside the thermal envelope, thus slowing temperature changes. Spray foam can be pricey, but it both seals and insulates. You could use an inch or two and them add fiberglass or whatever to increase the R value to your acceptable level.

Insulation inside of blocks helps some, but there is a lot of thermal bridging in blocks that internal fill will not address.

If you don't care for the external insulation idea, consider a 24" OC 2 by 4 wall built 1/2" inside of your block wall. Spray an inch of foam, then fiberglass or loose fill insulation. Sheet the wall in OSB, and you can hang stuff anywhere. Cover the OSB with drywall for fire resistance, and paint it white to reflect light. I know, some people would put the drywall up first, give the joints what is known as a fire coat, and then put up the OSB. That is valid too.

I take it you have an engineered solution to upper level storage or loads? If not, now is the time.
 

kbs2244

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The experts will tell you to put the insulation on the outside of the block with regular siding outside that.
I would go with glued on foam panels and sleepers for the siding attachment.

The reason is that keeps the "thermal mass" of the block in the temp controlled area.
If you paint the inside of the block wall with a good barrier paint, you will not need any poly vapor barrier.
 

sands35

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St. Joseph, MI
Have you thought about the different versions of Insulated Concrete Forms? By the time you buy and deal with installing foam on the outside, it might pay off to use those.
 
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redyute

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southern md
Just wondering why the all block (CMU) option? There lots of ways to go. Why this one?
Cause there is a row of block under the ply so I was thinking since the ply is rotted I would just go with all block. But im always open to suggestions cause im still in the planning stage.

I built a 2x2 stick frame inside mine and used spray foam insulation. Water radiant heat. Are you sure 12 feet is adequate? To allow space for lighting and roll up door clearance with my lift, I found closer to 13 feet for the ceiling.
Agreed I guess 13' feet will will suit me better
 
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redyute

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southern md
Have you thought about the different versions of Insulated Concrete Forms? By the time you buy and deal with installing foam on the outside, it might pay off to use those.
Actually no I will look into that. Appreciate all the responses guys a lot of stuff to look into lol
 
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redyute

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southern md
I am building a 26 x 30 block building at my house and the core 500 is a $1000 installed. Myself I like block, it's quiet, fireproof. And low maintenance. I have a 2100 sq ft shop I made my living out of for 25 yrs and it is block. They might not look as nice as some other construction methods .
block is nice, I was just looking at insulated concrete forms they are nice also, but im thinking all that concrete needed has to be super expensive compared to block
 

cleveman

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Oct 9, 2013
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zentral Iowa
you'll still need to side an icf wall.

It would be sweet if you could find a tie-in system to allow you to put in 3" of poly iso on the exterior of your block, then a brick veneer over that with the 1/2" airspace.

I just can't think of what to attach wall ties to the concrete block with through 3" of material, and ideally the wall ties would be imbedded in the block work.
 

volleyball

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NY, not NYC
I agree with building a block garage and putting foam panels on the outside. You can get it now with sheathing bonded to one side to mount your siding on. The block will be on the inside giving you the look and the safety of being fire rated. You could do a veneer block on the outside but I wouldn't.
ICF's don't work here, not because of cost but because you would have to have finished walls on both sides.
 

Ironcrow

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Arizona
In my case the garage is a retaining wall too, so block makes more sense. I put 1 inch foam on the outside before back filling too.
 

volleyball

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You could put block over block. A block interior will make it more fire resistant and durable.
You really didn't think you could come up with magic cmu's that are super insulated?
Just build it, XPS over it and then backfill with a few hundred yards of dirt. Plant grass seed.
 

Architorture

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Feb 13, 2013
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PA
If you don't want to put a finish on the outside of the block then your only real option is to fur out the inside and put up insulation behind an interior finish. As said before, filling the block with insulation leaves too much bridging.

If you don't have some overriding reason to go with block, wood framing is going to be cheaper and more flexible in the long run.
 

tms0425

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Sep 29, 2013
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59
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Clear Lake IN
I have a 30x30x12 block building in the same situation. I'm looking at using Insofast 2x4x2" panels. They lock together and have plastic studs built-in, so you glue on to the concrete without issue, and install finishes right over that.
http://www.insofast.com

I have a sample from them and it looks like a great option inside or outside the block or both, which creates a super ICF. These guys came from the ICF industry and seem to know their stuff.
 
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