Almost blind bearing puller

[theoldwizard1]

My daughter's tread mill developed a clunk that we diagnosed as a bad bearing in the non-powered roller. The bearings are common ball bearings and will be delivered tomorrow. The bearings are pressed into the tube that forms the roller. It is over 24" wide. I have a small (2 lb) hammer with the appropriate inside hooks, but that bearing is in there good and will not budge !

Ideas for removal ? Long rod and beat from the opposite end (which has the same bearing) ? I don't really want to buy a bigger slide hammer.

 

[Firebrick43]

Heat the tube to 400 degrees F to break any loctite bond and before it cools attempt to pull

 

[gizardlizard]

He’s right. Guaranteed it’s been loctited in. Heat it first.

 

[The Cobbler]

can you put a rod thru the entire tube to knock the bearings from the inside?

 

[zkdiesel]

Long rod and beat

 

[qqzj]

My daughter's tread mill developed a clunk that we diagnosed as a bad bearing in the non-powered roller. The bearings are common ball bearings and will be delivered tomorrow. The bearings are pressed into the tube that forms the roller. It is over 24" wide. I have a small (2 lb) hammer with the appropriate inside hooks, but that bearing is in there good and will not budge !

Ideas for removal ? Long rod and beat from the opposite end (which has the same bearing) ? I don't really want to buy a bigger slide hammer.

I have a hard time visualizing that. Any pictures to help?

 

[ItsNemo]

Suggestions are spot on, heat and knock it from the other side.

 

[nadogail]

A lot of heat, quickly applied, can be your friend, I am talking "Rosebud" tip on an Oxygen Acetylene torch a Propane torch wont give you enough heat fast enough.

 

[Ricky Joe]

If you need a lot of heat fast, a MAP torch might help.

 

[The Cobbler]

for thin walled tubing I'm pretty sure a propane torch would suffice. you just need to get the tube hot before the heat soaks in to the bearing

 

[jpaw]

Try to knock it out from the other side. I wouldn't heat it unless you have to.
It shouldn't take much heat on the tube to loosen the fit, a ball bearing has a lot of mass so the tube will likely expand much quicker than the race.

 

[theoldwizard1]

for thin walled tubing I'm pretty sure a propane torch would suffice. you just need to get the tube hot before the heat soaks in to the bearing

Try to knock it out from the other side. I wouldn't heat it unless you have to.

Not exactly "thin wall"tubing. The reason I have not tried to knock it out is I don't have anything long enough to reach through the bearing on the opposite end. The axle lines up with the center holes of the bearings so it won't "catch" on the opposite bearing.

Looks like I will have to buy a piece of steel and put a very gradual bend in it so that it does not line up either center hole of the bearing.

 

[jpaw]

A long pry bar should work.
Also a piece of flat stock slid through the bearing and dropped on top would give you something better to hit against.

 

[jpaw]

I have several pieces of 1/2" black pipe and fence post that I use for this type of thing

 

[dchawk81]

I'm thinking sawzall.

 

[The Cobbler]

I'm thinking sawzall.

and then what ?

 

[dchawk81]

and then what ?

I dunno. Down with the patriarchy or whatever.

 

[Ricky Joe]

Would a pilot bearing puller work?

 

[PCustoms]

Would a pilot bearing puller work?

Stuff a couple loaves of bread it the hole and keep packing it in with a closely fitting bolt.


On a more serious note, any chance the bearing is staked in?

 

[KnurledNut]

@theoldwizard1
Try setting the slide hammer back up to pull it, but then hold the tube upside down and use the axle to drive against the puller jaws to push it out. The weight of the slide hammer hanging will aid in removal and give a double hit.

 

[11b30b4]

I am also having a hard time visualizing exactly what you are dealing with without any pictures. That said, the title of this thread implies a blind bearing (meaning you can not access the back side of the bearing). I have removed a few blind bearings using the wet paper towel method. I know that sounds ridiculous but it really worked, twice on some live centers for a wood lathe. her is a link to video showing the method.

hope that helps you out.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I am also having a hard time visualizing exactly what you are dealing with without any pictures. That said, the title of this thread implies a blind bearing (meaning you can not access the back side of the bearing). .

I did say "almost" because I do have access to the back. It is down a tube that is 24" long !

Going to the "metal" store today to buy a 36" piece of steel rod, slightly smaller than the 17mm axle.

 

[gizardlizard]

I have to replace bearings all the time at work on conveyors ranging from 12” wide to 36” wide. Heat the outside of tube and rip out with blind bearing puller. Even the loctited ones come out in one or two pulls.

 

[bigredcornhead]

Long piece of all thread, fender washers and nuts, drop the all thread through the hole in the bearing, fender washers and nut inside tube. Then put the all thread in a vise and slide hammer the **** out of it + heat also.

 

[zkdiesel]

I did say "almost" because I do have access to the back. It is down a tube that is 24" long !

Going to the "metal" store today to buy a 36" piece of steel rod, slightly smaller than the 17mm axle.

24” is close! I’ve fought this type of stuff at the end of 10’ Tube’s. Get the welder out and a rod and make what’s needed is easiest