Alternate ceilings

[OccupantRJ]

Since I now have some arthritic issues in my knees, I am looking for input and ideas on an easy to install ceiling for my shop. Wood structure with standard building trusses on 24" centers. I was going to go with the rib style metal, but want to be able to have better sealing around the edges, and be easier to cut. This got me thinking on other materials and methods of install to reduce my ladder or walkboard access frequency. Since having to mud, tape, and sand is time consuming and dirty, I don't plan to do much of it. My shop is also full of equipment, some of which can be relocated with a pallet jack.

I have previously used the 12" squares of Celotex type tiles, which are stapled in place with a staple gun. This is a possibility in this case, also. I can get plenty of free 1x6x12 foot long crate boards from work to rip in width for the furring strips of attachment. These are light and can be installed by one person with minimal physical strain. Progress of this ceiling can also be started and stopped as often as needed in seconds. Just grab a tile and a few trigger pulls to attach.

Another thought was using drywall with the tapered edges cut off, separated by using plastic H moldings, along with screws and escutcheons to attach to the joists. This would be similar to what has been used in mobile homes. No suspended ceiling due to cost and ceiling height.

If anyone has any more creative ideas that are easy on the body and wallet, along with minimal help needed, I would be interested.

 

[readhead]

Drywall can be ordered without tapered edges.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Drywall can be ordered without tapered edges.

Thanks for the input. I was not aware of that. However, that would not be a large consideration as I have found if I trim off the edges, I can get 7 equal width panels across the shop. The trimming can also be done on sawhorses before the panel goes up. The slightly rounded edges of the drywall you speak of might help fitting into the divider strips more easily however.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Why not just do battens instead of the plastic H strips? I'd even use thin plywood instead of the drywall.
If I wanted drywall, I'd mud and tape but then I don't see where it is that much work or mess.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Why not just do battens instead of the plastic H strips? I'd even use thin plywood instead of the drywall.
If I wanted drywall, I'd mud and tape but then I don't see where it is that much work or mess.

Battens are already a consideration because of the free wood I have on hand. No mudding and taping due to machine tools and such, along with the fact I despise mudding, taping and sanding to begin with. Shop is full and in use. Thinner materials may tend to be wavy on a 24" span. The drywall, even used as a mechanically installed panel, has good rigidity.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Another plus of plywood is that you can paint it before putting it up. Did that over my parents porch. After installing I just did a quick, light coat of paint to cover any marks made during installation and to make the screw heads not as noticeable.
What's your plan for covering the screws in the drywall?

 

[Smiliesafari]

Grid and tile....quick and easy.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Another plus of plywood is that you can paint it before putting it up. Did that over my parents porch. After installing I just did a quick, light coat of paint to cover any marks made during installation and to make the screw heads not as noticeable.
What's your plan for covering the screws in the drywall?

Screws with a decorative washer such as a rosette.

 

[Falcon67]

If you are going to condition the space and the ceiling is one of the limits, it'll need to be sealed to reduce air movement. Otherwise, your walls and rafters become the edge of the conditioned envelope. The difference between my OSB screwed to the joists and the same OSB with the seams caulked was nearly night vs day.

 

[OccupantRJ]

If you are going to condition the space and the ceiling is one of the limits, it'll need to be sealed to reduce air movement. Otherwise, your walls and rafters become the edge of the conditioned envelope. The difference between my OSB screwed to the joists and the same OSB with the seams caulked was nearly night vs day.

That is why I am leaning a little away from the metal ceiling. I could use closures at the ends, but the sides will still not be well sealed, and the overlap of the sheets are bound to have some leakage. I am running a package heat pump for climate control, with insulated ductwork in the attic. There will also be blown in insulation above the ceiling.