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Alternative to drywall?

Sharkey

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Jul 7, 2015
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Going to be starting my garage build (40x56x16) come early spring, and want to get everything lined up. After a discussion with another larger garage owner, he suggested not to use drywall as we do have humid summer ect (South west of Chicago). I am looking for a smooth finished look. Is there any alternatives you guys have used to get the same look but more durable? Thanks!:beer:
 
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howpeculiar

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I am doing the corrugated white sheetmetal panels. not the cheapest, but very durable.
 
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Sharkey

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Jul 7, 2015
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I am doing the corrugated white sheetmetal panels. not the cheapest, but very durable.

The thing is with corrugated paneling is the ripples make it difficult to hang/stud out anything. (Garage will have a loft) looking more for the smooth finish.
 

GMCGarage

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I would use drywall, and paint it. Humidity will not effect drywall that much unless you put in a green house!
 

rk_tek

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Bella Vista, AR
Drywall comes in many types for different applications including damp areas. It is commonly called 'green board'. you can also use high abuse board at lower areas where it might get bumped by people or equipment. depending on the look you are going for, plywood(A/C or baltic birch) or MDO could be used.
 

slimcake

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Sheetrock it and paint it. I took my hose to it the other day and no problems. Use a good paint to seal it up!
 

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Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
he suggested not to use drywall as we do have humid summer ect (South west of Chicago).

You ain't got humid like Houston or NOLA and they have drywall everywhere. Got drywall above out shower, it does get rather humid in there once a day.
 

Lelandwelds

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Central Texas
You ain't got humid like Houston or NOLA and they have drywall everywhere. Got drywall above out shower, it does get rather humid in there once a day.

Lol. I like that.

There are even commercial exterior gypsum panels. (Never used any.) There are rigid PVC alternatives. http://plastics.epiplastics.com/viewitems/wall-ceiling-panels-trims/1-2-tongue-groove-hollow-panels. Tileboard. Formica. Frp panels. There are metal panels that offer a flat appearance
http://www.mbci.com/products/wall/concealed-fastening-wall-systems/fw-120/
And insulated cladding systems intended for exterior use. http://www.mbci.com/products/wall/insulated-wall-panels/
There are load bearing metal stressed skin panels from the refrigerated warehouse industry. https://www.kingspan.com/us/en-us/p...vironments/cold-storage-systems/ks-shadowline.
You might get a local roofing fabricator to decoil some sheet off the roll without adding the profile. You would need to be one silver tongued SOB but it could happen. One of the farm and ranch supplys sells a wall panel with 1/4" tall wide corrugations on 4 or 6" centers for interiors.

I would suggest a leafblower instead of a pressure washer and use sheetrock. Use paperfree on the lower four feet if still concerned. Rip up a 4 x 8 expanded PVC sheet into 6 or 12 inch strips for the bottom if needed.
 
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Sharkey

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Jul 7, 2015
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Thank you everyone on the input. I think I'll use green board all around. I greatly appreciate the help!
 

3504speed

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Nov 29, 2015
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PNW
I used 4x8 sheets of 3/8"LP soffit material. Where it's pre-primed it took paint really nice and I caulked the seems so it's really hard to tell one sheet from another. If I need to fill a hole I'll just caulk it and touch up with paint. Early on I wasn't sure which direction I was going for the interior walls so I sheeted everything with 7/16 OSB then decided to use the soffit material. So I ended up going a little overkill and it cost me a little more but I guess I can drive a screw or whatever anywhere now if I want to hang something that doesn't need a stud.
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zkdiesel

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chicagoland cornfields
The thing is with corrugated paneling is the ripples make it difficult to hang/stud out anything. (Garage will have a loft) looking more for the smooth finish.

Difficult, but very doable though. Mine has a loft and things hanging everywhere with corrugated steel. Very fireproof
 

Jackfre

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N CA
I used 1/2 plywood set vertically. It looks good to me and allows access into the walls. Two years in I am finding all of the little to big misses in design/services and the simple access allows me to get into the areas I need to. You could also look at sheets of melamine for an absolute smooth finish.
 
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crewchief888

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never had any issues in central fla with a drywalled garage with no HVAC...

well except for the gallons of sweat....




:beer:
 

Hollywood D

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Conifer, CO
I’m thinking about doing unprimed T1-11 for my walls. It’s primarily a wood shop and will kind of give it that wood shop feel.
 

chitowncamaro

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Apr 11, 2011
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South side of chicago
I used 4x8 sheets of 3/8"LP soffit material. Where it's pre-primed it took paint really nice and I caulked the seems so it's really hard to tell one sheet from another. If I need to fill a hole I'll just caulk it and touch up with paint. Early on I wasn't sure which direction I was going for the interior walls so I sheeted everything with 7/16 OSB then decided to use the soffit material. So I ended up going a little overkill and it cost me a little more but I guess I can drive a screw or whatever anywhere now if I want to hang something that doesn't need a stud.
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Awesome color scheme, mine is very similar on a smaller scale. But only one wall of diamond plate(build thread coming shortly) I used 3/8 barn siding preprimed also. Paint is next. Lost my window now the weather got cold.
 

TractorJeff

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Elkhorn, WI
There is a basement grade of sheetrock for use in "higher" moisture areas which the price appeared to be slightly lower or comparable to standard sheetrock at Menards.
 

ford33

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If you live in the Chicago area you may not have a choice.

Check the building codes for attached garages in Chicago. I believe you will need 5/8 gypsum board for the ceiling if a room is above the garage and at least 1/2" gypsum for all the walls. You cannot use OSB, plywood or other type material to enclose the interior structure of an attached garage. You will also need to fire seal caulk openings in the ceiling for electrical boxes and other openings.

This is a fire safety issue. If you do it wrong, when it is time to sell the home, you will be paying someone to do it right. Home inspectors know to look for these things and home buyers will negotiate the price down to do it right.

You may place other materials over the drywall as a decorative covering.

I have drywall in my Chicago garage. When primed and painted it looks nice. It's been up for nearly 30 years without any mold or rodent issues. It is easy to maintain.

Good luck.
 

Jon_E

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Southwestern Vermont
I’m thinking about doing unprimed T1-11 for my walls. It’s primarily a wood shop and will kind of give it that wood shop feel.

I thought of that too (same type of shop). Only problem with T1-11 is that the rough surface will collect dust and spiderwebs like you have never seen in your life before. I went with painted OSB, smooth side out. I like the wood look, so maybe in the future I will cover the OSB with pine T&G or something similar.
 

bgarrett

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I am using white 5 rib metal sheets with the ribs turned to the inside. Things wont fall behind shelves because the flats are on the outside
 
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