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Aluminum/Composite Expedition Camper Build

casey4x4

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Joined
Mar 4, 2015
Messages
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My wife Courtney and I have decided to make the move towards full time adventure. We currently live in a self built shipping container house:


To anyone considering tiny living I say go for it and never look back. Simplify your life and focus on what matters to you! Living tiny has helped us realign our life goals, expectations, and ambitions to focus on what is important to us. We plan to spend the next year or so traveling the US, snow skiing, mountain biking, and off road exploring. We would love to hear about your favorite trail or Overland destination so we can add it to our route!

The build:

The truck is a 2015 Ram 3500 CCSB 6.7 CTD.

Last summer I was shopping for a Lance 825 when a perfect combo came up for sale. Here is what it looked like when we bought it:

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124089661_1833247546829992_6320706606469615378_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=JYDabOryaoMAX-OWsaT&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=25117eef559ce60237e7182425cbcfff&oe=5FCCC095

Sadly, that is not my picture. That was an adventure that the previous owner got to enjoy. A business decision forced the sale of the camper shortly after purchasing to help fund the remodel of an investment property. However, I felt like the overall size of the 825 was ideal for our needs many design decisions have been based off this camper.

So what's the plan?

We're building a permanently mounted hard side truck camper using lots of aluminum, foam, glue, and plywood! The basic build plan is to create an aluminum exo-skeleton and fill in with composite panels. The goal is the build an expedition camper capable of supporting full time life for two (plus our dogs). We approached many many different build techniques. Ultimately it came down to: What can we build with the tools and materials available to us, in a time efficient way, so we can get this show on the road!?

Here is a rendering of what we plan to create:

https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124064141_1833247503496663_267765624924398327_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=F6240IC93I0AX8ucEGc&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=2a05f1d2a22ab7afbe7e09c4a04b77bf&oe=5FCB0559

Step 1 is to remove the bed and start laying out the sub frame. This is 2x2x.125 6061 Aluminum.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124015995_1833247946829952_7850142983752221044_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=eN90JPnqzYEAX9imRMP&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=e0806fcc12ab35f241e27d929e557600&oe=5FC9070B

After tacking the sub frame I clamped it up as best I could to avoid warping and welded it out. I planned on TIG welding but my first attempt was awful. I discovered a mouse had chewed the liner on the lead and I wasn't getting any shielding gas at the weld. Rats! A new lead is on the way, until then I'm using my spool gun and having really good results!

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124052672_1833247896829957_6970454280593636953_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=0pUqXVHApbYAX9oHAMR&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=66063c22e30c3b0673d1a756438a6b08&oe=5FCA96CB

This project is going to require lots of sheet metal bending. So when I discovered an 8' brake for sale locally I jumped on it. However, I have no place to put it. So for now it lives on my trailer.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124415356_1833247706829976_1579338963905180659_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=Mp0gNnIhchIAX_msSw6&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=25c2ae14065e74caa5170bdab8641181&oe=5FCAE482

Here I am using our 4x8 Arclight Dynamics CNC plasma table to cut out some of the first parts for the body.

https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124027542_1833248083496605_1557598010394471440_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=NGhD8hEBltAAX9wqkDh&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=b2d5fb1ffd686c997a3b897bec058feb&oe=5FCA31FC


We vacation rent our house out (part of the whole tiny living thing) which restricts access to the garage/shop sometimes. I decided to relocate to another spot on the property and keep making progress. The weather has been beautiful and working outside has been pleasant. Wheel well liners and the lower parts of the exo-frame are tacked together.

https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124045288_1833248276829919_7357682483581307304_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=6zZ6hfg--p0AX_l71vv&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=6d12c08c287ec393eae40d6b224fed5d&oe=5FCC141F

The structure is starting to come together. These parts are .080 5052 Aluminum. Just a few tack welds and this thing is starting to really stiffen up.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124097210_1833248310163249_8084871779794654473_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=-_EoNMB6plcAX_2OmBY&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=8122bf00fa77e2641de2fb021359cb7d&oe=5FCB26F8


In between all this we've been gluing up our composite panels. We try to build one per day to let them cure for at least 24 hours. The construction is 0.050" 5052 aluminum laminated to 1" Foamular 150, laminated to 1/4" UV coated birch plywood. The aluminum goes on the outside, the plywood on the inside. For glue we are using Loctite PL Premium polyurethane. The key is to mist it with water to promote proper cure. When I supported our 2'x2' test sample on the ends and jumped on the middle there was no noticeable deflection. In order to make the panel fail I had to mechanically separate it with a pry bar. The foam failed, the glue bond did not. I know there are lots of much cooler composite panels out there but I think these will serve their purpose very well and we are able to make them ourselves with the tools we have and the materials readily available to us (still had to drive 3 hours to get the foam!).

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124210316_1833247616829985_6180292530049790827_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=6OCJaqZYUAoAX_li7xE&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=5f73fb9752930d61b012da83bce7d279&oe=5FCA674B


If you want to see more, check out our first YouTube episode. Please give us a thumbs up or comment and subscribe, it will help us out!

 
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royce

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Jun 22, 2014
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fairbanks ak
That's going to be a dandy,Casey.
It is so easy to make things too heavy and you are really keeping the weight down.
Thanks and looking forward to your progress.

Royce
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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Location
SE Michigan
I have some questions. Suppose that the truck needs service...I'm guessing that the camper wont fit on a traditional vehicle lift. Is there a way to remove the finished assembly so you could do vehicle repairs?

I am curious if you have to run wiring inside of the panels and preplan for chases or conduits?

Last I'm curious how you are weather-sealing the panels, either at corners or splice-joints on the flat where one panel meets another?

Not trying to be critical but just learn how you are approaching from a nuts-and-bolts perspective :beer:
 
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casey4x4

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Mar 4, 2015
Messages
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I have some questions. Suppose that the truck needs service...I'm guessing that the camper wont fit on a traditional vehicle lift. Is there a way to remove the finished assembly so you could do vehicle repairs?

I am curious if you have to run wiring inside of the panels and preplan for chases or conduits?

Last I'm curious how you are weather-sealing the panels, either at corners or splice-joints on the flat where one panel meets another?

Not trying to be critical but just learn how you are approaching from a nuts-and-bolts perspective :beer:

This can be an issue with any RV or the large high top vans (Sprinter, Transit, etc). They make 2 post lifts that don't have the upper halo. Theoretically the camper could be removed, but it wouldn't be easy. Definitely more time consuming than just doing whatever maintenance you might need to do from jack stands on the ground (assuming you don't have access to a lift without a halo bar).

Most of the wiring will run in conduit inside the cabinets. I am going to bury some wires inside the ceiling panels for a roof vent and lighting.

There will be no splice joints. All joints will be overlapping and bonded using VHB tape (waterproof) or Sikaflex 252, or some combination of the two. Should be very water tight.

I appreciate the comments, sometimes you need an outside perspective questioning the integrity of a design to recognize a problem!
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
Messages
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Very well thought out and an impressive build so far. I have been researching building a travel trailer (the quality of what is available *****) so I have some comments on your design/construction method.

Your composite panels are very impressive ! The aluminum outer skin is going to be expensive, but will last forever. I would have use 2" foam board, just for the added insulation.

Are you going to be using the same panels for the roof ? You want some curve in the roof so that water runs off.

I have very little faith in any sealant actually holding up to weather and UV for multiple years. Install your windows and doors using butyl tape and in a manner that they can be removed and the tape replaced 3-7 years down the road.

For the roof, I would suggest replacing the aluminum panels with either 1/2" plywood and a one piece, commercial grade TPO roof OR a very thin aluminum (roll) over 2" foam board (Layering 1" foam board covering the seams a second piece will add a lot of strength.) In either case, you are going to need some addition support (rafters) in the roof to support a persons weight.


With adequate solar panels and LiFePO4 batteries, it is possible to NOT require propane. Use a DC-DC battery charger from the engine to charger the batteries when driving or on cloudy days.
 
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MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
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Upstate South Carolina
Subscribed! Eventually, I want to build either a slide-in truck camper, or a slide-in module to put on a utility trailer. Slide-in, because I need the truck or trailer as an open hauler, too. I was shocked to see what slide-in campers cost these days. We don't need or want a bunch of built-ins. Just a basic shell; one step up from a tent.
 
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casey4x4

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Mar 4, 2015
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To address the above comment, yes the roof will be built out of the same panels. The roof rack is going to be an integral part of the roof structure. On the rare chance that we need to walk on the roof we'll make sure the weight is on the roof rack not on the roof.

We are getting away from propane entirely. We have a diesel air heater and a marine style water heater that scavenges engine heat (with a coolant loop) and has an additional 1500w heating element should it be required.

All other appliances will be electric running off a LiFePO4 battery bank managed by an inverter charger with grid tie in, DC input (from alternator) and solar input.

I'll link to above mentioned equipment once my post count is high enough to allow it. I've been a lurker here for a long time, finally have something worthy to contribute!

Thanks for the comments and for following along!
 

Bigblockyeti

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What kind of terrain does the truck travel over that would prevent a longer chassis or a trailer camper? Given the short wheelbase of the pictured truck, it seems it would be very capable, but is that capability actually needed or being used at the expense of more comfort?

I've thought about building a utility trailer mounted camper module allowing me to have only one trailer and when camping, have a far more robust chassis than any readily available camper from a dealer.
 
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theoldwizard1

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All other appliances will be electric running off a LiFePO4 battery bank managed by an inverter charger with grid tie in, DC input (from alternator) and solar input.
You will really need a DC-DC charger to properly charger your battery bank from your vehicle alternator. Off-hand I do not know of one that is designed to charge a LiFePO4 battery bank. (As stupid as this sounds, a second, inexpensive inverter wired directly to the vehicle battery and located in the cab could then "power" the AC input of your main inverter charger.)


You sound like a very "capable" individual. Check out the YouTube channel DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse. He shows how to pamke you own LiFePO4 battery. Follow up over atDIY LiFePO4 Battery Banks. There are place in China now selling individual LiFePO4 200Ah and 280 Ah individual cells at reasonable prices. You can build your own "pack" with cell balancer.
 

earl84

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Dec 15, 2013
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215
Location
Colona, CO
Awesome build! I built a teardrop trailer a few years ago, with 1x4 skeleton walls that had 3/4 inch formulary in the voids. It’s a small space inside, queen size bed and the ceiling is about 4 feet high. It’s amazing how little it takes to stay warm in there once our body heat takes over. A 12v blanket to warm the bed and it’s really comfortable into the 20s temperatures. I used 1/8” birch ply inside to save a little weight, not much. The PL premium worked well. It is skinned with all aluminum, looks cool to me.
Love the idea of getting away from propane. One fuel source, easy to fill at the strange times of day, and some strange places where propane filling is a pain.
One tiny little thing that I added as an afterthought was a backer 1x4 for a coat hook on each side. Now I can’t imagine what a pain it would be without them. I’d also suggest you take lots of pictures, not only for our selfish purposes on GJ, but they may come in extremely handy for future modifications and/ or maintenance.

Good luck with this and keep posting.
 

tarmy

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May 28, 2014
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Nor Cal
I love the creativity in dreaming up a really complex project for the sole purpose of having a legit reason to buy a kick **** huge new tool. That break is awesome.:beer:

About the camper thingy...that seems easy.:lol_hitti

Seriously, nice build OP.
 
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casey4x4

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We'll start off this post with a screen shot of the model that we're working off of. It's not as visually complete as the slick looking concept image in the first post. This model is an accurate representation of what we're building, it contains the part files that we can send to the plasma table and we can pull dimensions from the model (extremely useful for checking if things are square!).

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124903300_1838482302973183_9033996171238912276_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=ia_IcF3G3hIAX_xXLO7&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=78d767f29836083ea1aec0a313a531d4&oe=5FD10246

Cab over starting to come together:

https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125063785_1838455312975882_6295190639489858987_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=m0OSqYgQkPUAX8dg7zZ&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=66c46cf78a00411795e4e5a8f38e9f28&oe=5FD26D63

Building a nose cone to finish off the front, we're working in the shed because it was windy and raining out and we had vacation renters using the house (no access to garage):

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124830882_1838468509641229_5603841189579245328_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=-VndmICysQ4AX934GCQ&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=6e64e58322d3d469fb96a588a42ce2c9&oe=5FD0B60A

Cutting parts for the cab over gusset, this is 3/8" 6061.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124828462_1838455199642560_6539378288857358541_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=hXqtCSWymrgAX9p-XuA&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=51d9d1b9655e45797f46c926d32d5788&oe=5FD0C0B2

Used a router with an 1/8" radius cutter and bearing guide to add a radius to the corners.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125021877_1838455259642554_2496697222385809741_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=rMW2rd8MlB8AX-HF0-l&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=87a8f816cc2027dae5ebf8e0a5a2ccc7&oe=5FD1D7C3

This gives the parts the machined billet aluminum look we were going for. I wasn't sure if this plan was going to work, but I'm very happy with the results.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124275777_1838455206309226_5196709704194148420_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=z-Zhf_Z3lHIAX9VFOCV&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=4602122e8f84882bcc51529897debc9f&oe=5FD12C02

Here you can see the finished products (nose cone and cab over gusset). The nose cone turned out to be a lot of work. Weld grind sand repeat. We're really happy with how it turned out!

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125220654_1838455329642547_6415547510755210893_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=_WP_c5uneMYAX9looxC&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=93da7cb9428a3ab864d1c53fa100e1e3&oe=5FD282B1

At this point we were able to load it back on the truck. It is still light enough that Courtney and I are able to lift it ourselves (after figuring out we were fighting a tree branch, not weight!). Also in this picture you can see that Courtney has been working on vinyl wrapping the truck. She watched a bunch of YouTube and dove in. It's a tedious process that I can't even pretend to have the patience for.

https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/124850442_1838455112975902_6197252915061157669_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=D_Fkspj5Ll8AX_QDQ_B&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=ae16be5418e089e97b4dbff6be22e12b&oe=5FD2878F
 
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Ign

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Jul 7, 2006
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Butte Peak ND
Yeah I've got a client who wants a rear main done on a '94 6.5 GM. I told her if she wants that, the camper's gotta go. And I have the -168 (that's 14 feet) OPTION on my 2 post. In my case even if I had something awesome like a Mohawk the ceiling I-beam would still restrict me.
 

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casey4x4

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Mar 4, 2015
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Got the roof rack, back rack, and ladder done! The racks are made of 3/8" 6061 bar stock, the ladder rungs are .080 sheet metal bend into C shapes. The roof rack really added a lot of rigidity to the nose of the camper.

For those interested, currently the COG is about 12" behind the front wall.

It was remarkably calm out so we spent two entire days welding and GOT IT ALL DONE! Trying to spool gun the .080 **** joints together was not working out very well. We ended up grinding those welds out and TIGing those joints from both the inside and outside. It was super tedious especially up on a ladder, luckily Courtney's Eastwood 200 TIG welder came with a finger trigger! I never understood why you would use the finger trigger until I was trying to operate the pedal up on the ladder.


Here are some nice golden hour pics. Next step is to paint the structure and then I think we're ready for some panels!


https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125338527_1841855272635886_8481709867661462426_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=wSj8igOx6fYAX-aY7sF&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=2f9c02fea3472e7181f25a133fdd5c9a&oe=5FD7067E


https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125395633_1841855232635890_911335037356384131_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=0D3-HnaS8lgAX8J_ksN&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=e6d5963260d52c7fdd97175312424b95&oe=5FD3B2E6


https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125386481_1841855312635882_939530690534297431_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&cb=846ca55b-311e05c7&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=FXJ7njBEPi0AX9IBFSt&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=7b6dad3233a6a06943636e371c85e59c&oe=5FD75244


https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125390970_1841855259302554_9187471984171956767_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=LI9DOhHQ038AX9alviU&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=9c64e94a60b186e488ff00b0d2b0c322&oe=5FD5B284


https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125442806_1841855275969219_3010862935653963058_o.jpg?_nc_cat=101&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=ypDPHHxI7BgAX8XTNzf&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=7f5f4bae202af631e46255d7616d936d&oe=5FD6712B



We have been working on planning out the interior and would love some input. Here is what we have so far:



https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125414814_1841855072635906_1128927449658580275_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=ih9noXJL-PEAX_gR0ZW&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=8d2b8c2a68ebb8a47b73253e803da4c3&oe=5FD56BFE



https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125432399_1841855049302575_1386928057027759386_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=uHxSOnrgalcAX8E_VCm&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=ad3e5aa06af6f6b54447f4d3c022b544&oe=5FD59B21


36x24 wet bath on driver side rear

14" deep closet/ vertical storage taking up the entire rest of the rear

Passenger side galley kitchen

L shaped dinette on driver side/front (water tank, batteries, inverter, water heater, etc under here)

upper cabinets above kitchen and dinette and small his/hers storage in bed area.


Unique idea: The kitchen cabinet is actually going to be a "garage" accessed by a large door on the outside. It should be big enough to store our mountain bikes inside of if we take both wheels and the handle bars off. The "garage" door will swing down and be able to double as an outdoor table.

Inside bike storage is really important to us. They need to be able to be locked up out of sight and out of the weather if we aren't using them for an extended amount of time or are headed somewhere where theft could be an issue. We are also planning on a rack to hang them vertically off the back of the camper if we are using them daily.

Thanks for following along! Next YouTube episode coming soon.
 

Ign

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What are the plans for the back seat of the cab? On my '11 SuperDuty if I fold up the back seats I can easily fit my 27.5+ with just front wheel removed. I bet 2 bikes would make it if staggered
 

matt_i

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L shaped dinette on driver side/front (water tank, batteries, inverter, water heater, etc under here)

Just looking at it, seems like there's some room "down low", iow as low as the original wheelhouse openings, to package some of those systems. Would be nice for CG reasons and improve ride + handling. And potentially give you another way to use that space inside.

Granted the downside is now they are "outside" and potentially would have to be serviced from there. I think you could weather seal them reasonably well with gasketed/bolted panels. Could be good for more access but could be worse for being outdoors in cold and or rain if they need repair work.

Bikes...would be nice if you could just cram them in there close to willy-nilly when parked. Outdoors I am thinking of a custom fitted sunbrella cover to keep off road-splash and rain when parked as a concept.

Framework went together quickly and looks like it matches the concept very well! Looking forward to more updates :)
 
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casey4x4

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Mar 4, 2015
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We plan to delete the back seat and build a storage platform. Our dogs will ride on top of the platform. Fitting bikes in the back seat was discussed and it is one of our backup alternatives, it would just mean the dogs would have to ride in the camper.

There will be under body tool boxes and I agree it would be nice to move some of the mechanical systems to that space, but it seems like most of it really needs to be inside/climate controlled. If the LiFePO4 batteries freeze they can quickly become damaged, water tank and pump shouldn't freeze, water heater would be a lot less efficient if exposed to low temperatures, etc.
 

Ign

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Butte Peak ND
Yep, had an '02 Silverado that was just an extra cab but removed the rear seat and built a dog platform. Tons of storage underneath
 
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casey4x4

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Mar 4, 2015
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Update!

We painted the structure. We started with sanding/scuffing the entire surface, followed by a wipe down with acetone. Then we primed using Rustoleum Self Etching Primer in a rattle can. The top coat is Rustoleum Semi Gloss Black from the quart can with enamel hardener from Tractor Supply mixed it. We sprayed it using a Harbor Freight pressure pot gun (link). Hopefully the paint holds up over time. We tried to get it powder coated but our local places had a 2 week lead time and that wasn't going to work for us.


We decided to give spring mounting the rear a shot. The springs fit very well in the factory bed bolt locations because there was clearance for a socket already integrated. Used a 5/8" bolt and a 4" long die spring. There are two springs per side so four springs total.


https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126172319_1845881435566603_6756405940751163815_o.jpg?_nc_cat=101&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=MEc525iJlogAX8fuH86&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=8e0bda002e69fe8136d50f14b1259dfd&oe=5FD8ECF9


Next up was to build the floor. However, Courtney realized last minute that we needed to install the fuel pickup for our diesel furnace while it was easy to get to. You can see the pickup and fuel pump in this picture.


https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126348215_1845881338899946_6971854063836659142_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=DDmlc-BpPh4AX9SoZ79&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=efb02c7227eb47708fedb4610fb502db&oe=5FD95422


The floor was built by bonding aluminum sheet to the sub frame using Sika 252 to make it water tight and then we layered 1/2" UV Baltic Birch on top. It is very solid feeling. It will get insulated after the ceiling and walls are in.


Cutting the panels has been pretty easy using the little cordless circ saw and a fresh fine tooth blade. I like how light this little cordless saw is for reaching across awkward cuts.



https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126243211_1845881482233265_7063190160334893813_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=GKVxwQa8bTUAX9nY-0_&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=8c6f244b5ab0e07ad4cef6b5f2f074b2&oe=5FDB84C3


Each panel gets vinyl wrapped before installation. We cut away the edges to expose the aluminum for gluing.



https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126309820_1845881412233272_5614126335425735953_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=3ZcNOhvhTCYAX8Zh7HU&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=7412c2e1d96be6d2258e3018df198030&oe=5FD8F226


We add a 1/2" strip of VHB tape near the edge of the mounting flange, and then a liberal amount of Sika 252. The tape acts as a spacer for the Sika, provides an instant bond to clamp it, and keeps the sika from oozing out and making a huge mess on the outside of the panel. Its working pretty well. We did end up riveting every 8" too because we weren't happy with some of the gaps. Things warped and moved a little during welding.


https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126161642_1845881298899950_3601320714297205359_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=n5PhsWTWu_AAX-2m8vM&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=42b7bb895d497cbe256e7219aec1565c&oe=5FDC2FD8


https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126214477_1845881455566601_1453779389274522592_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=M7dRw-Mn9iAAX-QOyu8&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=481a2ea016eee267d404ffcfc00dcd2b&oe=5FDC4E30


https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126168610_1845881268899953_600775795566374659_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=v6w2TFgiOZIAX_zV6Kt&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=8f3905847f7f945796f65cc4c6e8b5de&oe=5FDBEB8F


The roof panels also got a white textured vinyl wall paper applied before installation.
 

XJSuperman

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Jan 26, 2018
Messages
3,088
Location
Central Iowa
Very nice. I realize your door is on the side, but have you considered a "tailgate porch" that folds down and allows for more outside space or possibly short term cargo storage? Just something I've seen on a growing number of builds.

Other thoughts for the build:
Outdoor shower? Super handy for the dogs (or you) after a funfilled day on the trails
What size water tanks are you planning? or did I miss that detail?
Electric water heater or are you going to use the truck's coolant system with a heat exchanger?
Up top I assume you'll be installing solar panels on most of the roof?
 

Squashfest81

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Joined
Jan 14, 2012
Messages
1,480
Location
MA
Yup, amazing build.
I’d go with multiple easy spots for the bikes. Not in the kitchen cabinet as you’re going to want that storage.
Outside rack storage for when you are hanging around base camp or in secure locations. Overhead hooks to hang bikes in the camper when you are driving. And mounts on the in cab dog platform when you are in the camper. Always accessible.
 
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casey4x4

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Mar 4, 2015
Messages
23
Very impressive. Great work!
Thank you for the compliments!

Very nice. I realize your door is on the side, but have you considered a "tailgate porch" that folds down and allows for more outside space or possibly short term cargo storage? Just something I've seen on a growing number of builds.

Other thoughts for the build:
Outdoor shower? Super handy for the dogs (or you) after a funfilled day on the trails
What size water tanks are you planning? or did I miss that detail?
Electric water heater or are you going to use the truck's coolant system with a heat exchanger?
Up top I assume you'll be installing solar panels on most of the roof?

I have been rolling around the idea of a small slide out porch that the stairs are attached to. Stairs can be used with the porch in or out.

Yes outdoor shower is in the works. Super handy for washing the dogs and bikes. Also nice for rinsing off after a ride.

42 gal fresh water tank, 26 gal grey water, and a Thetford cassette toilet with a 5 gal tank.

Using a Whale marine water heater. It has a heat exchanger for hydronic heat and a 1500w electric element.

Yes planning on some solar up top. And a DC DC charger off the truck.

Thanks for the input!

Yup, amazing build.
I’d go with multiple easy spots for the bikes. Not in the kitchen cabinet as you’re going to want that storage.
Outside rack storage for when you are hanging around base camp or in secure locations. Overhead hooks to hang bikes in the camper when you are driving. And mounts on the in cab dog platform when you are in the camper. Always accessible.

One big advantage of a "flatbed" camper like this vs a traditional truck camper is WAY more storage space down low. I think turning the "kitchen" into a "garage" is going to be great for storing all sorts of bulky gear including our bikes. I do appreciate the input though. Our kitchen stuff will be in the overhead cabinet above. The "garage" space will also be accessible from the inside.

I don't want to have to constantly play musical bikes. Having a dedicated place to put them away for extended time seems like a good idea to me.
 
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casey4x4

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Mar 4, 2015
Messages
23
The progress has been a little monotonous lately as we've been getting all the panels cut to size, wrapped, and installed. But, we did make progress on something else that's worth sharing

The panel on the bottom of the bed area was made a little differently.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126951896_1849081661913247_7137970074275983220_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=HNrT3M1Jax0AX8Ibc2G&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=5703dab980081d00526f71fd4bd1aa66&oe=5FDDC06F

We laminated two 1x.125 square tubes into the panel to add some additional support. The normal glue up process followed but we also riveted the plywood skin and aluminum skin to the square tubing. This panel is extremely stiff in the axis perpendicular to those tubes now. This panel also has a flange to allow us to shingle a smaller panel in to get the extra width we need in this area.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126401886_1849081618579918_6919386590764528966_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=qonzhlXMNYMAX_qWdrG&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=7789775f40a12ffde9d8f062fb401b63&oe=5FDF0E88

Next project!

First step, remove the back window.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126905036_1849081888579891_1554791677434143708_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=ug16ea8IjVEAX-9aY8v&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=3ef980dfa58b6620d31cdb38cccd11eb&oe=5FDD1E75

This was surprisingly easy. We've never removed auto glass before. Used a oscillating multi tool, bent a blade at a 90 cut to be about 1/4" wide and sharpened the edges. Fished it in behind the glass and let 'er eat. CAREFULLY! There were two plastic clips in the bottom corners that Courtney pried loose with a screw driver. We have a system, there are "Riley tight" jobs, and "Courtney tight" jobs. Prying clips holding glass are more of a "Courtney tight" job. No interior disassembly was required at all. WIN!

Next up, build a new back window panel with a pass through.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126932213_1849081961913217_5059956935256150326_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=4QBnXy7QGjAAX-HNvve&_nc_oc=AQkAbdVCaMdKEcMuEzrPsZvaAOqq9he2RP1ocJPPcZ-dL9OMwdGLnZ3GGT3V5kbGpZI&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=f5e51edeffb3fd9b5accd359e2671529&oe=5FDEBE64

Courtney upholstered the part with some Duramax tweed fabric that we had leftover from another project. This makes it feel a lot "softer" finished inside the cab.
Finally, we installed the panel in the truck.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126867260_1849081771913236_8438840413135908492_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=y4MH2h5bS9sAX8qM84f&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=efecb2dd0b0fce1a1375eab0137420b5&oe=5FE036F7

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126177787_1849081578579922_5722016077864328522_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=ODGnRM2SaVgAX9XsOUw&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=3bcbcdae1b7d6aac6fd3a2b9ffe3c1bc&oe=5FE09F82

Next was to add a matching flange to the front panel of the camper.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126933146_1849081671913246_3344873458974010742_o.jpg?_nc_cat=101&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=5tcxP_sFj9kAX_czym9&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=8795eb0da6f474875ddd054265aa0ba3&oe=5FDCDDA4

There is 2.5" between the two flanges:

https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126240878_1849081881913225_2773613565435057058_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=39tbCc3180AAX_aAsol&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=61e3011e9cfa74b9043aff1c17a89b63&oe=5FDED9FF

We used this boot intended for big rig sleepers to seal it up.

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126901670_1849081941913219_4182401732356644363_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=ZiHJTZ2gJY8AX8gw4wI&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=84703fe082c720a7479f74a99affdf05&oe=5FDFAF7C

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126952347_1849110421910371_8980768894993725404_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=ifkTzLPtHlwAX-862uA&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=4acbeb2c23b7ae588c6e0170181b0d88&oe=5FDEEC5F


The pass through took us about 4 or 5 hours start to finish. It will be well worth it. Now our dogs can sleep on their platform in the back seat area of the truck rather than in the dinette area (unless it's really cold). Also, it adds a safety factor that is important to us. If there is a situation outside the truck that we don't want to interact with (animal, person, etc) we can crawl into the cab and drive away.

All but the back two panels are now in. We are leaving the back open for now to make adding some interior stuff easier.

https://scontent-lax3-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126959466_1849081921913221_4538488123393401593_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=amBH7hOLBsYAX8LaiQt&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.**&oh=5a019f6e59d66c6c10cf0c60989a2e72&oe=5FDD0980

https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126863606_1849081831913230_4088674886185590111_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=2&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=AF1lshsWo6gAX937LZR&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=0117d82810ef442041e0d11a8639f603&oe=5FDEC5C3

Next up is to bury some wiring inside the seams between the panels and start adding our internal framing. It's important to note that this SIP construction requires both the inside and outside skins to be continuous to get full strength of the structure.
 
Last edited:

rvieceli

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Joined
Nov 3, 2013
Messages
779
Location
Illinois
Pass through looks good. Congrats on coming up with the process.

Positioning bothers my OCD a LOT. :shocking: How come it's not in the middle?

Is there a reason it wasn't bigger?

Thanks

Ron
 
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casey4x4

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Mar 4, 2015
Messages
23
Pass through looks good. Congrats on coming up with the process.

Positioning bothers my OCD a LOT. :shocking: How come it's not in the middle?

Is there a reason it wasn't bigger?

Thanks

Ron

It is offset to accommodate our interior layout and to avoid the seat belt mounting bracket for the backseat.

It is as large as it needed to be for us to comfortably use. By keeping it small and not cutting into the back wall of the truck we can fit the water tank in the bench below it. It is really only intended for the dogs and us to use in an emergency.
 
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casey4x4

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Mar 4, 2015
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Our next video is up! If you are enjoying following along make sure to subscribe.


 

Monza Harry

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Joined
Dec 29, 2018
Messages
1,433
Location
Windsor ON
All but the back two panels are now in. We are leaving the back open for now to make adding some interior stuff easier.

Next up is to bury some wiring inside the seams between the panels and start adding our internal framing. It's important to note that this SIP construction requires both the inside and outside skins to be continuous to get full strength of the structure.
I would consider making the back panels removable for future upgrades and repairs. The '70's GMC motor homes were assembled this way.

Coming along very nicely! Thanx For Sharing! Harry
 
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