Aluminum drift boat build.

[Ruthless53]

Have you thought about putting a small jet ski engine in one? If you haven't google "jet Jon" and search for the skinny river runs. My cousin is a big fly fisherman and we've thought about building a jet Jon but I'd like to cut the nose off of a second Jon boat, put a tunnel in it and weld it up to the stern to push water down So you could still row easily in both directions and be able to run back up river every once in awhile if we go over a good area. A jet Jon would be a pretty awesome toy but a jet powered drift boat would be a game changer!!!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Have you thought about putting a small jet ski engine in one? If you haven't google "jet Jon"

I guess you are not much of a sailor if you don;t know the difference between a Jon boat an river drift boat !

 

[koditten]

Have you thought about putting a small jet ski engine in one? If you haven't google "jet Jon" and search for the skinny river runs. My cousin is a big fly fisherman and we've thought about building a jet Jon but I'd like to cut the nose off of a second Jon boat, put a tunnel in it and weld it up to the stern to push water down So you could still row easily in both directions and be able to run back up river every once in awhile if we go over a good area. A jet Jon would be a pretty awesome toy but a jet powered drift boat would be a game changer!!!

Ive seen those rigs. I wouldn't mind building one as long as I was given the boat and jet ski.

 

[marinusdees]

Ive seen those rigs. I wouldn't mind building one as long as I was given the boat and jet ski.

Amen. Sounds like an abortion to me. Sounds like a way to add weight. In general, weight is undesirable in a true whitewater Mckenzie River (aka "drift" or "river" or "Rogue River"-although these are a bit different, but not much) boat. I had a friend who clamped an electric trolling motor to the side of his drift boat so he could run plugs with out rowing constantly. He generally fished alone. Also, years ago Eastside Boats in Washington built a wooden drift boat with a motor well inside the boat. A buddy had one and it was a ***** to row. Weight and drag. When he used it in the salt to fish for searun cutthroat trout, he used a motor. It wouldn't steer worth a d--- because it had no keel. I think it finally rotted into boat heaven. Trying to kill too many birds with one stone generally doesn't work so well.

 

[marinusdees]

Have you thought about putting a small jet ski engine in one? If you haven't google "jet Jon" and search for the skinny river runs. My cousin is a big fly fisherman and we've thought about building a jet Jon but I'd like to cut the nose off of a second Jon boat, put a tunnel in it and weld it up to the stern to push water down So you could still row easily in both directions and be able to run back up river every once in awhile if we go over a good area. A jet Jon would be a pretty awesome toy but a jet powered drift boat would be a game changer!!!

There are jet sleds and there are drift boats. Crossbreeding doesn't work.

 

[koditten]

True. Apples and oranges.

 

[Ruthless53]

I guess you are not much of a sailor if you don;t know the difference between a Jon boat an river drift boat !

My cousin has two drift boats. Closest place for us to fish is the white river in Arkansas and Guadalupe river here in a Texas. White river is easier to do an entire day drift but the Guadalupe has a very short top areas for trout and even the white river the upper area is far better for trout, it'd be nice to be able to row easily for 5-8 miles and then be able to run it back up river easily and make eve same float. We are not as blessed in the south with a lot of rivers where you can drift all day.

 

[Ruthless53]

Amen. Sounds like an abortion to me. Sounds like a way to add weight. In general, weight is undesirable in a true whitewater Mckenzie River (aka "drift" or "river" or "Rogue River"-although these are a bit different, but not much) boat. I had a friend who clamped an electric trolling motor to the side of his drift boat so he could run plugs with out rowing constantly. He generally fished alone. Also, years ago Eastside Boats in Washington built a wooden drift boat with a motor well inside the boat. A buddy had one and it was a ***** to row. Weight and drag. When he used it in the salt to fish for searun cutthroat trout, he used a motor. It wouldn't steer worth a d--- because it had no keel. I think it finally rotted into boat heaven. Trying to kill too many birds with one stone generally doesn't work so well.

And none of those rivers have true rapids. A small light jet ski motor mounted center of the boat, with a nozzle protruding on the upward slope above the lowest point of the boat would make a hell of a boat. Again this isn't something that would ever see rapids. it's just more so figuring an inexpensive way to power an easily rowable boat.

 

[marinusdees]

My cousin has two drift boats. Closest place for us to fish is the white river in Arkansas and Guadalupe river here in a Texas. White river is easier to do an entire day drift but the Guadalupe has a very short top areas for trout and even the white river the upper area is far better for trout, it'd be nice to be able to row easily for 5-8 miles and then be able to run it back up river easily and make eve same float. We are not as blessed in the south with a lot of rivers where you can drift all day.

You can do this easily in a (small) jet sled. Jet boats are rowable. You can, if you are good ( and brave) enough, navigate waters in a drift boat which are not navigable in a jet sled. You pay your money and you take your choice. My choice is as light a drift boat as I can get. Depends where you are fishing, when you are fishing (low or high water), how you are fishing, what you are fishing for. A moped chained to a tree at the takeout saves a lot of hitchiking or walking. Where and when I fish, 6 miles is a more than adequate day's float. Won't say I have not done more than that, of necessity. Running a drift boat after sundown, especially on a river which is unfamiliar, is a true test of rowing a drift boat. At least you can listen for the rocks gurgling. Can't do this while an outboard is howling.

 

[marinusdees]

And none of those rivers have true rapids. A small light jet ski motor mounted center of the boat, with a nozzle protruding on the upward slope above the lowest point of the boat would make a hell of a boat. Again this isn't something that would ever see rapids. it's just more so figuring an inexpensive way to power an easily rowable boat.

An inexpensive way to power a boat is with a set of oars and a strong back. Also, why build a drift boat if it's never going to see rapids? If you only need a jon boat, it doesn't get much cheaper. Hang a motor off the back if you like. I won't say I've never hung a motor off of a drift boat, but it is a less than ideal combination. In a true drift boat, the oarsman must sit in the middle of the boat. This precludes putting a motor in the middle. And, such an arrangement would make this contraption a ***** to row.

 

[steel 35]

Here is the first video I found and it has no drift boats without a motor! This is not anyone I know or have dealt with.

Had this river boat over ten years, have family and place to stay in the hill's of this video. Lots of good time's there and several other river's, lakes and salt.
I have never fished in a drift boat without a motor and don't want to; I have lots of trips in one down this river though.
Prepare for hanging a motor and enjoy, it's really coming together nice

 

[marinusdees]

Here is the first video I found and it has no drift boats without a motor! This is not anyone I know or have dealt with.

Had this river boat over ten years, have family and place to stay in the hill's of this video. Lots of good time's there and several other river's, lakes and salt.
I have never fished in a drift boat without a motor and don't want to; I have lots of trips in one down this river though.
Prepare for hanging a motor and enjoy, it's really coming together nice

I notice you didn't say UP the river. These guys are professionals and have run this same stretch of the Rogue many times. This is not to debunk the idea of a motor on a drift boat. These guys have to be in great shape to run a drift boat with two nimrods and a motor aboard. Not something for the weekend warrior to tackle. Also, notice they are not using the motor to navigate white water. The motor is used in lakey stretches to fish without rowing against the current. Before you were born, Glen Wooldridge of Grants Pass ran a boat (not a drift boat) UP the river from the salt to Grants Pass with an outboard using a jackass lift and a propeller, not a jet. Shell Oil made a movie of this, not sure if it's still around. Also, Glen and his buddies dynamited a passage in a place called Blossom Bar. What would environmentalists do with that one??
FYI an adipose fin is not proof of "nativeness". Hatchery fish can be released with out being fin clipped. Also, hatchery fish can crossbreed with native fish and the resultant offspring are?? Just sayin'.
Drift boats are not designed as motor boats. They can (and obviously are) be used as motor boats. Not usually,, where and when I used one.

 

[marinusdees]

Here is the first video I found and it has no drift boats without a motor! This is not anyone I know or have dealt with.

Had this river boat over ten years, have family and place to stay in the hill's of this video. Lots of good time's there and several other river's, lakes and salt.
I have never fished in a drift boat without a motor and don't want to; I have lots of trips in one down this river though.
Prepare for hanging a motor and enjoy, it's really coming together nice

The boat in the photo is not a drift boat, it's a jet sled. Definitely a river boat.

 

[koditten]

I do appreciate the attention my thread is getting, but I'm not sure I want all the arguing.

Am I to keep posting my progress? I'm not sure this is my thread anymore.

 

[madoc1]

yes, please keep loading pics as you make progress. i believe the majority of viewers are more interested in those and not a discussion of power boats. and thx for the explanation of the welding technique.

jim

 

[koditten]

Nothing real exciting here. Just running a bead around the inside of the boat. Kinda amazing how loud being inside the boat and welding is. Normally aluminum welding is a very tolerable hiss. I had to cram in some ear plugs

My fishing buddy was over to criticize my (lack) welding and progress. He was nice enough to get a shot of me in mid weld.

 

[koditten]

Spool gun issues.

For some reason the I get some serious burn back when I get down to the last 1/3 of a spool. I haven't figured out if it is a tension or position issue. When I get to work on the boat next, I'll experiment with unspooling the wire from the spool so there is slack.

I can't remember, but I think I said it was 15 or so years ago that I got the spool gun kit. I used it twice in the whole time I had it. Once to build up the blade of an outboard boat motor and once to fix an aluminum truck tool box. I'm still figuring the thing out.

When it welds nice, its damn nice. When it acts up, it's a major pain in the ****.

This is where you guys that use these things often insert suggestions

 

[marinusdees]

Have never used a spool gun. Have welded Al with a MIG just running the wire up the gun. Yes, i have dealt with a lot of birdsnests. Keep the hose straight.
As to your experience with the variability of the weld, well, welcome to MIG welding AL. I am not an expert, but have had the same experience. Seems wire speed and welding heat are finicky. Maybe just me.
Keep posting about your build, please. I want to see it on the water, preferably on a river.

 

[marinusdees]

I have fished the Betsie. Before you were born. Nowhere does it demand a whitewater McKenzie. Jiust sayin".

 

[Hchrist]

Don't all boats drift? [emoji16]
Sorry-couldn't resist. Very nice looking project.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing

 

[ALinCarolina]

Subscribed.
I will be very interested on how your boat progresses. I built a wood drift boat by stitch and glue method a few years ago. But did use Plascore honeycomb material for the bottom covered with Kevlar and fiberglass then Linex. If you want any input when you get to designing the interior or anything else shoot me a PM.
I am an avid fly fisherman and had my drift boat on rivers here in NC as well as Virginia, Tennessee, Virginia, Idaho, and Montana.
I haven't been on Sandy's drift boat building forum in some time now but it will be a great resource for you. I should get back on it some time.

 

[koditten]

I've been getting all sorts of info from the drift boat phorum. Great place to learn.

Now someone find me some free time to work on it. Just found out I get to work the entire holiday week. 7, 12 hour midnight shift. On the plus side I will be able to buy supplies.

Im presently researching oars. The prices for those things are all over the place.

 

[aka Larry]

Somehow I missed this thread until today. Looking good so far man!

I started out by making the forms for the boat, these are referred as strong backs. I'll shorten it to SD's.

SD = Strong Backs? Shouldn't that be "SB"?

 

[koditten]

Auto correct on my phone. Didn't catch it an too lazy to edit the posts.

 

[marinusdees]

I've been getting all sorts of info from the drift boat phorum. Great place to learn.

Now someone find me some free time to work on it. Just found out I get to work the entire holiday week. 7, 12 hour midnight shift. On the plus side I will be able to buy supplies.

Im presently researching oars. The prices for those things are all over the place.

The "status" oars last I knew were "Cataract shafts". These are composite oars. IMHO they are too heavy. The oars need to be light and balanced in the oarlocks so only a bit of weight is outside the oarlock. This is a function of the length of the oars, among other things. A gorilla can overcome a lot of misfit, but it can become a real exercise for the oarsman. Generally, drift boat oars should be 8 to 9 feet long. It would be nice to see how the oars "fit" before buying them. If you have a store near by that sells oars, load the boat on your trailer and drive over there. Sit in the rowing seat and see how the oars feel. Are the oarlocks too high or too far forward or aft?? This is a function of seat placement fore and aft, seat height, oarlock height, and oarlock placement for and aft and gunnel height, among other things. The most expensive oars are not necessarily the best. My Wooldridge oars , bought with my drift boat, were welded aluminum, and virtually indestructible. They cost me $15 or so in 1970. I'm not saying they are the best. If it were I, I'd look for the lightest 8 1/2' wood oars and see how they fit. As far as wood, ash is hell for stout and lasts, but heavy. Spruce is light, but not as strong. I have never rowed with wood oars I was happy with. I have rowed with some that were OK. I disliked cataract shafts more than wood oars. A real whitewater boatman ALWAYS carries an extra oar. If a wooden oar breaks, it happens in a bad place. They dryrot where the oarpin is fastened. Or, they lift out of the oarlock while you are not paying attention, read fishing, and float away. Ask me how I know. It is NOT possible to run a boat down a river with one oar, nevermind it's not whitewater. If you want more advice you can PM me if you wish. I'd be happy to give you my phone number and talk on the phone. If you just want a rowboat, disregard this information from an old whitewater steelhead fisherman freak.
Please continue posting. I enjoy it.

 

[koditten]

This was the feedback I was looking for. Thank you for this valuable post. I'm on my phone tonight at work so I won't be making long post. Its too hard with the small screen.

Thanks again.

 

[ALinCarolina]

Choosing oars involves some personal preferences. There are formulas out there taking into account the beam and other variables to help you decide length but you still may have preferences. I have wooden oars since I have a wood drift boat but I also like the feel of them. I use oarlocks like the Sawyer Cobra bronze ones. Counter weights can be used to help you balance them if you like. I like the ends of the handles only a few inches apart. I have seen some people have them much farther apart, about shoulder width, but I find that very awkward.
I also have a raft and use the aluminum/plastic oars for it. On both boats I use wrapped oars with the rubber doughnuts. There are oarlocks with the pin that goes through the oar and also OarRights:
http://www.oarright.com/
They both keep the oar blade vertical and make it easier for beginning rowers but I would encourage you to learn to row with open locks. It will be harder but you can feather the oars when needed, ship the oars inward when needed, generally more versatile, and just the mark of an experienced rower.
I would generally think you should look at 8.5 to 9 ft. oars and see how they fit.

 

[marinusdees]

Choosing oars involves some personal preferences. There are formulas out there taking into account the beam and other variables to help you decide length but you still may have preferences. I have wooden oars since I have a wood drift boat but I also like the feel of them. I use oarlocks like the Sawyer Cobra bronze ones. Counter weights can be used to help you balance them if you like. I like the ends of the handles only a few inches apart. I have seen some people have them much farther apart, about shoulder width, but I find that very awkward.
I also have a raft and use the aluminum/plastic oars for it. On both boats I use wrapped oars with the rubber doughnuts. There are oarlocks with the pin that goes through the oar and also OarRights:
http://www.oarright.com/
They both keep the oar blade vertical and make it easier for beginning rowers but I would encourage you to learn to row with open locks. It will be harder but you can feather the oars when needed, ship the oars inward when needed, generally more versatile, and just the mark of an experienced rower.
I would generally think you should look at 8.5 to 9 ft. oars and see how they fit.

Heavy oars are heavy oars even if counterbalanced. I agree that hands close together is better. My aluminum oars had wood handles, not so cold. My focus was winter steelheading, and we carried a portable propane fired heater on most trips. A pin through a wood oar to hold the oarlock is exactly where it dryrots and snaps in the middle of a heavy chute when you are standing on the oars and really need control. Ask me how I know. Wood oars are best wrapped with rope and rubber stops used with no hole in the oar. If you are using this as a rowboat and not a riverboat, some of this is not critical. If you use wood oars and run any water where the oars of necessity must hit rocks to maintain control, buy some of those oar tip protectors that fit over the end. Saves oars and money. Oars are NOT cheap, so if you start with some that don't suit you, replacing them is problematic. Unless you have deep pockets.
PS Wrapping rope on a wood oar typically requires a small wood screw to hold the end of the rope. Another spot to dryrot. Just sayin'. Also, composite oars eliminate a lot of these problems. They are not cheap, so you can use a wood oar as your third oar. I just didn't like the weight, even when balanced. I'm 6"4" and over 250 pounds, so I could handle them and did. I could tell you some horror stories about homemade drift boats, but won't.

 

[koditten]

I've been stupid busy during the holiday season, so no real headway has been made on the drift boat. I did get a chance to do some preliminary leak detection.

The thought of filling the bottom of the boat with water, knowing there will be leaks, then removing and drying the boat just seemed like a very big waste of time.

I got to thinking that there had to be some sort of short cut.

Then I found myself reading threads on the heating and plumbing section. Those guys are using soapy water to find leaks in a fitting that has less than 1/2 lb of pressure. Why can't I do that?

Here are a few pics of me doing my leak detecting. I was only able to do a short section, but I'm pretty confident it will save me a bunch of time.

 

[koditten]

After I sprayed the outside of the boat with soapy water, I hit the inside with a stream of compressed air.

 

[koditten]

The air creates some easily found bubbles. I now know that this section of the weld is porous.

 

[koditten]

I mark all the spots that will need to be ground down and re welded. I still need to do this with the opposite side, but over all, I'm sure this will cut down on leak checking time.

It would be nice to fill it with water 1 time and find no leaks, but I'm not holding my breath.

 

[1949 caddyman]

That method works fine. When weiding up exhaust pipe I do this to check for leaks.

 

[koditten]

Made some progress.

Finished up leak checking, hit the sub floor/bottom bracing welded in.

I finished up the fly deck and got a good start on the side braces/shelves.

Hopefully in the morning I can finish up the starboard shelf and move onto the gunnel trim.

 

[koditten]

I've been thinking about seat bases. I don't think I want bench seats and the boat is plenty rigid enough that cross bracing is unneeded.

I'm leaning towards making 3 bases for the seats. I never see more than 3 in this boat anyways.

Anyone have a suggestion for seat height?

 

[marinusdees]

Suggestion. Make the oarsman's seat a "caned" set, e.g. ropes woven across side to side. Gives your *** a better "bite" on the boat when you need control and need to get a grip on the boat for control. Height is dependent on gunnel height and your height, among other things. Again, the more you can "cut and try" without finalizing (welding) the better.. The placement and structure of the front seat for the "Nimrods" you take with you is much less critical. A bench seat in front serves. I you want better, mount some shell fiberglass seats on rails which slide side to side. That way you can set up the boat for one or two Nimrods. Remember, you want weight CENTERED or rowing becomes lopsided and difficult. You will find that whoever you take with you down the river is totally unaware of this, and I used to yell "square up the boat" fairly often. When you are not rowing, this becomes less of a problem. I think a front bench seat with underneath storage is the way to go. Then you can take one or two passengers and keep your raingear dry. If you make two separate front seats, with one passenger you will never be able to square up the boat, and asymmetrical rowing gets old in a hurry. One arm up in the air and the other not doesn't work for long. If you know you will always have two people with you, then disregard this advice. Just make sure they are equal in weight.
I would make the oarsman's seat mounted on rails across the hull, this will add strength to the hull. If you think this crossbracing is unnecessary, you are disregarding many years of drift boat building. Again, if all you want is a rowboat, it doesn't matter. If you want a real whitewater McKenziie, do it right. Just sayin".
I don't mean the rower's seat should be caned clear across the hull. Just wide enough caning to fit your ****. On crossbracing.

 

[koditten]

Good advice. I'll have to rethink my rowers seat. I did plan on it being adjustable. I want to stay away from a full height bench. I want something that is easy to step over when moving around the boat fighting a fish.

This boat will never have more than three.

 

[koditten]

I like this style of rowers seat. It allows movement around the boat as well a offering cross bracing. Obviously, not as much if the seat went fully across.

Be aware, the group of us fishermen here in Michigan have no white water streams. This will be pretty much a row boat. Which is fine. I'm building this for fun first, and maneuverability second.

Please critique the pic I posted.

 

[koditten]

Her is how the boat sits now.

Need to finish up my gunwales then work on the floor.

 

[Robert Haas]

I hope you consider some buoyancy chambers. (Foam filled areas that will keep a capsized boat afloat.)