Aluminum Faced insulation

[Donnda]

Has anyone had any dealings with this company?

http://www.insulation4less.com/Default.aspx

I have a 24 X 48 X 10 pole building and am ready to insulate, this seems too easy to be true. It would cost about $900 to do it this way. I plan to have OSB up 6ft fom the floor and the last 4 ft in drywall.

What do you think?

 

[Donnda]

No one has used anything like this?

Donn

 

[Stuart in MN]

The R value of foil backed bubble wrap is often exaggerated, I'd do some research online about it.

 

[kursplat]

funny, i was looking at options to redo the motorhome insulation and came across this too. couldn't find any independent confirmation of the R value and i'm leaning toward foam anyway.
think i will get some, OSH had it by the foot, to make some window covers out of

 

[Deltarat]

I have some similar in my shop. When it was over 100*out and you could not hold your hand on the metal siding, the inside was only warm to the touch. I do think I need something else to go with it in the ceiling to help on the utility bills. In Montana I not think it would be enough alone.

 

[glntom]

I used the prodex on my 24x36 metal building. This last summer the roof was 120 degrees, underside of insulation was 78. It still got hot in there, but didn't feel like you were being baked.

 

[Chaz]

I'd question that R value number... It seems WAY out of line.
Most closed cell foams are about R5 per inch.
Id stay with tried and true fiberglass. More money, but you know it works!

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

After much research, in the conventional stream, I found Polyisocyanurate insulation has the highest R-Value. Ive been buying 2.25" thick 4x8 rigid sheets for around $7 per sheet at a construction materials auction, Ive got around 350 pieces. Its made by dow, I think its around R-16. I bought it to insulate my shop. Plus its foil faced on both sides, for a radiant barrier.

Ive also used this in my house in the attic rafters, I ripped it down to 16" sections, and made soffit vent tubes out of it, to grab the heat and block radiant heat in my attic and delivers it right up to a ridge vent. I then had 4" of open cell foam sprayed on top of all it to seal it all up. Good stuff...!

 

[Donnda]

The reason for looking at this stuff was the fact that in the winter a metal sided building will sweat (a lot) and with fibreglass touching the interior of the steel walls the moisture will wick into the insulation allowing mold and rust to occur not to mention the loss of r factor when the insulation is wet.
To be honest I am at my wits end having searched this forum and the net as to what to do about insulation in this pole building. Any new suggestions

 

[fflintstone]

IMO spray foam (directly on the metal) is the best way to go. Expensive but effective. In my past research the reflective insulation is better in cooling climate than a heating climate. I would not go with it.

 

[stingry]

When this company talks about the R value of this product. they always say "reflective" R value. I found this in their literature
The above testing consisted of applying Prodex with an airspace of 2.64 inch on each side of product. Test method ASTM 1116. Interior side of product was exposed. 2 x 6 wood assembly 24 Inch.
Apparently they get this R value as a result of dead airspaces on both sides of their product. I highly doubt if this would compare with an equivalent R valued fiberglass insulation product. It's main value as I see it is its ability to reflect heat as some of the above posts point out. Their main selling points seem to be its use as a vapor barrier and as a reflective barrier. This product will probably work quite well if used in conjunction with other conventional types of insulation.

I am building a new shop at this time. It is of 2x6 construction on 24" centers. Their are 2x4 girts placed horizontally on the outside to attach vertical steel sheeting. I put 1 1/2 EPS between the girts with the reflective side facing out to act as a reflective heat barrier and as a moisture barrier. Tyvek house wrap will then go on the exterior. I will then use fiberglass batts between the 2x6's, for a total R value of approx. 25. Possibly you could go this same route if you have 2x girts under your steel skin and then frame out the interior and use fiberglass batts.

Cheers
Steve

 

[haugy]

I did a thin layer of 1" spray foam on my pole barn. Just on the walls. Then I put in R19 batts over that. With over 7" wall thickness due to 6x6 posts, and girts I was able to put all that in there without compressing it.

So far I haven't been able to really do any testing since my ceiling isn't in yet, but I know it should really seal up the shop from air movement, and hold the heat in.

 

[Donnda]

haugy, how big is your building? What was the sq ft cost of the spray foam? From the beginning I have wanted the spray foam but at $1.50 a sq ft it is a spendy option.

Thanks to all of you guys for the information. Gives me lots of food for thought.