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Aluminum utility trailer build 6x12

petawawarace

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This will be my first build thread.

First off I needed a trailer for a wide range of things. Probly could have just built 2 trailers but I think I can get by with this.

The main purpose is to haul the aluminum docks that I build on the side. Some sections are upto 20 ft long. I plan on using a ramp that will lock in the flat position to extend the trailer by 5 ft out the back. Then I'm going to add stake pockets and build high wooden sides for hauling brush and scrap to the dump.
It will also be used to haul 4 wheelers, snowmobiles, lawn tractors, and a small formula racecar. Ok maybe I should have built 4 trailers.

Anyway, here is the first night of work. Main frame and tounge are 2x4 6061 round corner and the crossers are 2x2 6061 rc as well. This is the same way I build my docks.

More to do in the next few days
 

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petawawarace

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What is your estimated cost of making one of these, if I might ask? Thanks.

It's going to be around $1000 in materials. Just keep in mind that's in Canada too. Could save a few hundred if it was made in the US.

What length and width are we looking at ?

What wall thickness ?

76" wide x 116" long. I know they are a little odd sizes but that was as big as I could go material wise without excess scrap.
0.120" wall
 

cre73

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If you got that far in the first night of work it should be done tomorrow. Looks nice apperently you have quite of bit of fabrication experience.
 
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petawawarace

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Looks like the first floating trailer thread :thumbup:

Ha I hope it doesn't end up in the water. I may post the build on the dock soon too

If you got that far in the first night of work it should be done tomorrow. Looks nice apperently you have quite of bit of fabrication experience.

Ha problem is with the 2 young kids I have to make as much progress as I can as I don't get very many nights in the garage anymore

I have an Aluminator brand 6x12 aluminum trailer. Very nice! Are you going with a torsion axel?

No I went with a 4" drop axle. If I don't like I can easily switch to the torsion axles
 

theoldwizard1

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A quick look around the web and I could not find 6061 in round corner.

Who is the supplier and manufacturer ?
 
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petawawarace

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A quick look around the web and I could not find 6061 in round corner.

Who is the supplier and manufacturer ?

I tried to get it in upstate NY as well, but no one could supply it down there. It is available from pretty much anyone in my area. Pemco, russel metals etc. it is really nice stuff, especially for the docks. No sharp edges. I don't know the manufacturer, but I believe it's out of Montreal.
 

IrishGuy

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I did my armoured vehecle driver training in Petawawa when I was a young lad!

I was thinking of doing a dump trailer out of 6061 - Are you post heating your main joints? What how are you joining the axle to the alu tubing - bolting I would think - does the paint stop galvanic transfer or are using something else as a buffer or is it even a concern?
Cheers, Patrick
 

IrishGuy

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Some interesting 6061 facts::::

The mechanical properties of 6061 depend greatly on the temper, or heat treatment, of the material.[2] Young's Modulus is 10×106 psi (69 GPa) regardless of temper.[3]

6061-O
Annealed 6061 (6061-O temper) has maximum tensile strength no more than 18,000 psi (125 MPa), and maximum yield strength no more than 8,000 psi (55 MPa). The material has elongation (stretch before ultimate failure) of 25–30%.

6061-T4
T4 temper 6061 has an ultimate tensile strength of at least 30,000 psi (207 MPa) and yield strength of at least 16,000 psi (110 MPa). It has elongation of 16%.

6061-T6
T6 temper 6061 has an ultimate tensile strength of at least 42,000 psi (300 MPa) and yield strength of at least 35,000 psi (241 MPa). More typical values are 45,000 psi (310 MPa) and 40,000 psi (275 MPa), respectively.[4] In thicknesses of 0.250 inch (6.35 mm) or less, it has elongation of 8% or more; in thicker sections, it has elongation of 10%. T651 temper has similar mechanical properties. The typical value for thermal conductivity for 6061-T6 at 80°C is around 152 W/m K. A material data sheet [5] defines the fatigue limit under cyclic load as 14,000 psi (100 MPa) for 500,000,000 completely reversed cycles using a standard RR Moore test machine and specimen. Note that aluminum does not exhibit a well defined "knee" on its S-n graph, so there is some debate as to how many cycles equates to "infinite life". Also note the actual value of fatigue limit for an application can be dramatically affected by the conventional de-rating factors of loading, gradient, and surface finish.

Uses 6061 is commonly used for the following:

construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages, more commonly in homebuilt aircraft than commercial or military aircraft.[6] 2024 alloy is somewhat stronger, but 6061 is more easily worked and remains resistant to corrosion even when the surface is abraded, which is not the case for 2024, which is usually used with a thin Alclad coating for corrosion resistance.[7]
yacht construction, including small utility boats.[8]
automotive parts, such as wheel spacers.
the manufacture of aluminium cans for the packaging of foodstuffs and beverages.
SCUBA tanks (post 1995)

6061-T6 is used for:the construction of bicycle frames and components.
many fly fishing reels.
The famous Pioneer plaque was made of this particular alloy.
the secondary chambers and baffle systems in firearm sound suppressors (primarily pistol suppressors for reduced weight and functionality), while the primary expansion chambers usually require 17-4PH or 303 stainless steel or titanium.[9][10]
The upper and lower receivers of many AR-15 variants.
Many aluminum docks and gangways are constructed with 6061-T6 extrusions, and welded into place.

Welding 6061 is highly weldable, for example using tungsten inert gas welding (TIG) or metal inert gas welding (MIG). Typically, after welding, the properties near the weld are those of 6061-O, a loss of strength of around 80%. The material can be re-heat-treated to restore -T4 or -T6 temper for the whole piece. After welding, the material can naturally age and restore some of its strength as well. Nevertheless, the Alcoa Structural Handbook recommends the design strength of the material adjacent to the weld to be taken as 11,000 psi without proper heat treatment after the weld.[citation needed] Typical filler material is 4043 or 5356.

Extrusions 6061 is an alloy used in the production of extrusions—long constant–cross-section structural shapes produced by pushing metal through a shaped die.

Forgings 6061 is an alloy that is suitable for hot forging. The billet is heated through an induction furnace and forged using a closed die process. Automotive parts, ATV parts, and industrial parts are just some of the uses as a forging.
 
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petawawarace

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Irishguy, Are you thinking a large dump trailer for gravel etc? If so I would recommend going with steel. The only real reason to use aluminum is for weight savings. If your going to be hauling gravel, you will have a large amount of weight there so the difference between steel and aluminum won't be much overall. My trailer is for hauling light but large items and light small items. No I'm not heating after welding, but I am adding fishplates around the welded corners.

The coupler and axle will be bolted and painted, as well as putting some very thin plastic between them to stop galvanic corrosion
 

IrishGuy

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Yes -- gravel, dirt , paver stones -- all the lovely things needed to do interlocking and yard work. I am only putting a single 5000lb axle so not for hualing extreme loads. I see lots of small and large dump trucks moving to aluminum -- they are trying to save in there fuel cost I suspect. Me, I want to be able to move the thing in and out of the back yard without needing a large truck to do it(making a yard tug - youtube "franken tug") and save on fuel as well if I am doing just small loads/long haul jobs and I admit, part of me just loves the look of aluminum as well.

I am toying with the idea of a multi type trailer - dump with the side panels that can lift off so I have a flat bed and not needing a hoist to do it as well.

Thanks for your input - very much wanted and needed. I will watch your build with eager anticipation.

Cheers,Patrick :canada:
 

koditten

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IG:

You need to build a tilt bed car hauler with removable sides.

Have you looked at some of my trailer build threads? There are lots of ideas that you can work with.

As for an Al dump trailer, I would stick with steel. I won't argue that the Al is strong enough or not, its just that Extruded Al is more rigid than steel. I does not flex much before it breaks. With steel, you can get lots of flex before failure.

My number one rule when it comes to consumer use trailers: The one thing you can count on a customer doing to their trailer is...overload it.

I can't wait for the next set of pics, Petawa.

Can I ask what you are using to weld with?

Pay very close attention to keeping the dissimilar metal segragated. I've repaired many trailers that could have been avoided just by using some plastic grommets thru the bolt holes.
 

IrishGuy

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Thanks Koditten -- I liked your bifold gate! I was thinking of a tilt at on time - but not sure - the thing is to dump stuff the angle is not enough unless the trailer is built higher.

Here is a trailer I liked because of the simple winch lift :

Cheers,Patrick
 
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koditten

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That's pretty awesome. I might have to do something like that. An $80 HF winch sure beats the hell out of $500 hydraulic power pack.

Thanks.

KO
 
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petawawarace

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Been sick here the last few days so not much done

I'm using a little lincoln 140 with a spool gun. Less than a grand into the whole setup. I'm using 4043 .035 wire. Some welds need to be preheated as the suroinding geometry allows more heat dissipation.

One other problem I've seen with aluminum dump trucks etc is that they wear alot easier with things (rocks) sliding out
 
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petawawarace

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Sorry didn't get a picture of the fishplates but basically it's a diamond shaped piece of sheet (or flat stock) that gets welded over your **** weld. In my case it's bent 90 and welded over the outside vertical edge.

I got the coupler welded and installed. Then started cutting pieces for the upper rails and shattered a support bearing on the bandsaw. So that ended today's work

Here's the coupler
 

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IrishGuy

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Trying to get the bolts in must be tricky for the front ones with that center support taking up some of the space -- just enough room for the bolt head so bolts cut to just the right length?
 

IrishGuy

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This is a nice tilt trailer -- I like the tire change at the end. From what I can tell, most of what goes into a tilt is almost the same as a dump except the legth of the sub frame which is determined by the pivot point:

The Low profile dump is nice as well:
 
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koditten

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Those are nice vid's, Pat, but lets not steal someone elses thread. I'm as guilty as the next guy on derailing threads. Actually I am to blame for derailing this thread.

You can start another thread asking about personal dump trailers and tons of people will respond. I know I will.

Later

KO
 
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petawawarace

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Nope still taking up space in the garage. Been too busy with the kids and snowmobile racing the last 2 weeks. Maybe one night this week hopefully
 
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petawawarace

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Got a little more done. Worked on getting the axle buttoned up so I can roll it in and out of the shop easier. For the guy that was wondering about the fish plating here is a picture
Hopefully get the jack on this weekend and start the rails around the sides

Also built this rack the other night to hold my plastic bins of small parts
 

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IrishGuy

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Can't seem to put multiple pictures up

One of the small downsides of aluminum -- for me, a dumping trailer the spring mounting bolts/nuts will not allow for the dump bucket to sit flush, some sort of risers would need to be added or cut out holes would be easier.

Looking nice.
 
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petawawarace

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One of the small downsides of aluminum -- for me, a dumping trailer the spring mounting bolts/nuts will not allow for the dump bucket to sit flush, some sort of risers would need to be added or cut out holes would be easier.

Looking nice.

You could easily mount the springs inside the frame so there is nothing on the top rail. I don't have an issue with the bolts sticking up so I went the easiest route. Just need to pick up some proper length bolts now
 
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