Aluminum welding project

[jJon G]

Hi G/Jers

I just bought a USED aluminum 8.5 x 12 Snopro trailer with a black clamshell top. The trailer is 4 years old. You can view the exact one on this site they have it called the XR series clamshell http://www.mainesnop...xrt-xtreme.html

I bought the trailer knowing that it had a split beam. The P/O had the trailer on the road when it split so he brought it to a shop to put a patch repair on it to get him home about 8hr. this patch consisted of two plates on each side of the beam as you can see in the pics. after the 8hr road trip the out side patch has split 3/4 of the way down.

The trailers main frame consists of two rectangle beams that the cross stringers for the deck sit on. Two long bolts go through the beam and attach the axel to the trailer. The drivers beam has cracked in the center where the bolt goes through, causing the rear of the trailer to drop. I am thinking that this was caused by OVER tightening the bolt by the factory causing the main beam to squat and weaken then split at the weakest point.

After showing the trailer to 4 trailer dealers today (not the one this trailer was bought from) and this is what they said:

The beams are too slight not the right thickness wall to be used as main beams holding an axel.
The axel that is bolted to the beam is centered in between two cross members providing a empty space that if weak, over time the axel tries to push the beam up into this space.
The over tightening of the bolts changed the structural integrity of the beam and caused a week point.
As for tilting the trailer it was designed to tilt …..
This trailer was not abused and only used in the winter for the sleds two 500ss shorty’s at that, sure it got a bubble bath a few times a winter to get the cra# off of it.

I have had a home built steel job, factory steel job, factory galvanized job, and then this Ugh !
My plan is to take the clamshell and the deck off, flip the trailer over onto a second trailer take the axel and tow bar off and cut the two beams out.
Then bring it to a welding shop to get them to put two new thicker beams in.
I am going to rebuild this trailer so every thing is new or has been checked and serviced.
I just wanted a second opinion on just putting thinker beams in, or should I get some angle stock and plat the new beam where the axle goes ?
Any suggestions or comments welcome 

Thanks Jon

 

[rsanter]

not enough information or pictures
but
it looks to me that this is a focul stress point and then the drilling the hole and effect of clamping I dont think had a big effect but dosent help the situation

dont go overboard with the repair. take the thing apart, remove the original patch and then install a new patch from bar stock that is 2 feet long on both sides of the rail 3/16 thick and do both rails.
add another piece on the bottom of the rail and weld the whole thing in.
be sure to drill some holes in the plates and do plug welds so you have the best attachment of these plates as you can. do good welding with good penetration but dont overheat the materials in the process.
where that hole goes through the rail install a piece of pipe or tubing and weld in it on both ends to the rail so you can secure to that point without tube crush but yet you can still get the bolt nice and tight.

bob

 

[jJon G]

Thanks for the reply I just looked over my post and the only thing i can add is that the beam on the other side is bent as well. I will try and get some more pics.

 

[jJon G]

Few More

First pic is the other side (not split but bent)
Second Pic is looking over the tire at the patch plate you can see the split in the plate (top dark spot) and above the split you can see the nut for the bolt that holds the axel on.

 

[jJon G]

Guys not much moving on this here so i put it on a different site (snowmobile site) here is the link if anyone is intrested http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=484197&st=0

Jon

 

[welder4956]

I would not try to splice in a section of the rectangular tube. I would say remove the entire length of the cracked tube and replace it with heavier wall tube. Then I would take a length of 1/4" thick steel angle and place it under the frame to span between the front and rear spring perches to keep the stresses on the frame low.

 

[jJon G]

thanks for the reply welder 4956 My plan is to put two new beams in and u bolt the axel asy to the frame

If you click on the link it will bring you to my post with all my plans

Jon