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Am I being Stupid?

Aviatordave

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
58
Hey Guys,

I’m plumbing in an auto drain for my shop compressor. (80 gallon, 5hp)
I’ve got a solenoid valve that I’ll be hooking to a timer. Planning on having it cycle once a night in the wee hours so it doesn’t startle the heck out of me when it runs.
Originally I was going to just drill a hole in the side of the barn and blow it outside. Call me **** retentive but the thought of drilling a hole in the wall has been causing me some mild indigestion.
So I thought about discharging it into a bucket that would sit next to the compressor. Lid on the bucket, some vent holes so the bucket didn’t try to explode every time. Wondering if a chronically damp bucket would promote mold growth.

Then an idea hit me. I have an old pressure regulator with a water separator laying around. It’s an auto drain model with a sight glass on the front. Is there any good reason I couldn’t just mount that on a wall next to the compressor, plumb the discharge line into that and let it deal with the water? That’s what its purpose in life is . . . right? Maybe put a drain tube from that down into a bucket if I felt so inclined but I suspect it wouldn’t be necessary. (It never seemed necessary when it was in use earlier in its life on the main air line out to the shop, but we are talking about the drain now . . . We’re not talking about a lot of water each day . . .)

Am I being stupid here? Is there some glaringly obvious thing I’m overlooking that the instant one of you brings it up I’m going to smack my forehead and regret having even posted the question?
This seems like a reasonable solution to me . . .

FWIW, I’m gonna just run a 1/2” pex line out of the solenoid valve to whatever solution I go with. (Heavily leaning towards this regulator/water separator idea.) The pressure regulator will just have the exhaust end open. There won’t be any appreciable build up pressure downstream from the solenoid valve to inflate the pex. I’d mount this on the wall right over the bucket. (Photos attached)

What are your thoughts? Is this a good or bad idea?

-Dave
 

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niget2002

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Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,123
Location
Josephine, TX
I have too much humidity for that small of a container for water collection in the bottom of the air compressor. I just used a separate rubber hose on the drain and snaked the hose along the edge of the shop and out under the front garage door. Since it's a low pressure use after the auto drain, I bought the cheapest rubber hose HF offered.

How long do you plan on leaving that solenoid open each day? A valve wide open even for a minute will discharge quite a bit of the air in your air compressor. You could probably get away with only having the drain run once a week or so. Or you could put a ball valve to limit how fast the water/air is pushed out the drain.
 

JKinAK

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2017
Messages
66
How much water does your compressor generate daily?
What’s the humidity level where you live?
I’m in a low humidity area and I simply run the autovent discharge onto the concrete floor under the compressor (in-floor heat). The discharge hose is pointed to spray a fan pattern across the floor. It’s set to discharge a short burst every 12 hours. There is no visible accumulation of moisture or mold.
Naturally this isn’t a good option in humid environments.
 

karoc

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Joined
Dec 19, 2017
Messages
1,998
Location
Hemphill Tx
I’ve installed lot of auto drains for compressor that was use for pneumatic controls. Very simple, adjust time of discharge by seconds and how often want it to blow down which hourly. But I also installed wye strainer to catch trash from bottom of tank. Trash in the solenoid not good. You will also have secure drain line due to tank psi, say 125psi or drain line go all over place. This should give you something think about besides drilling 3/8 hole
 
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Aviatordave

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Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
58
We wax and wane on humidity. Lower Michigan so it can get pretty humid in the summer months. My shop is actually pretty well sealed up (spray foam insulation) so I don’t see as much humidity in here. (It always feels more comfortable walking in from outside in the summer. Not to say it’s dry in here. If I had to guess. I’d say the relative humidity in here may get up to 60-80% at it’s worst. My compressor doesn’t seem to generate all that much on a daily basis. I think you’d be hard pressed to measure it in ounces. Certainly nowhere near enough to fill half the bowl on the regulator/water separator on a daily (or maybe even weekly) schedule.

I haven’t been the greatest at water condensation maintenance for my compressor, which is why I’m automating it.
I plan to start off cycling it once a day and seeing how much it generates. If, after a while of observation, I can bump the schedule out to once a week, I may. For the daily cycle, I plan to run it for about 10-15 seconds and see how that does for starts.

My floor is heated as well but I have that off in the summer. I live in the woods and mold can grow pretty readily around here so I’m not interested in just having it spray on the cement. I’d much rather have a system to manage the moisture. Even if it just turns out to be a bucket.
 
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Aviatordave

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Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
58
Hey bdbecker, those AC pan tablets look really interesting!! Never knew they even existed! I occasionally have to unclog the humidifier drain line on the furnace. I may try those for that, regardless, but that’s a very enticing idea to just toss one in the bucket. Thanks for sharing that!!
 
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Aviatordave

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Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
58
Hey Karoc, could you tell me a little more detail about the wye strainer? Specifically how you set it up? I like the idea of no crud in the solenoid. I’ve currently got it just plumbed from the tank drain to the solenoid with galvanized pipe. The compressor isn’t charged yet. I’m still assembling things so now is the time to implement changes.

The compressor tank will be at 175 psi. I can’t control that. I can only regulate the pressure downstream from the tank with the shop air line. I had thought about securing the 12” pipe ****** going to the solenoid. No more thinking about that. I’ll do it. The solenoid is rated for 1,450 psi and I’m not worried about the pex on the other side because it won’t be holding back any pressure during cycling. I had wondered if the solid steel pipe plumbing to the solenoid would be adequate . . .
 
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Aviatordave

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Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
58
I like the water bottle kkenny. What keeps the bottle from flying off? Is it glued/epoxied on? Just a tight fit?
Also, how long is the valve open when it cycles?

Karoc: Thanks! I’ll check one of those out. I like the ball valve idea.
 
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kkenney

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Aug 30, 2008
Messages
149
Location
Long Island
I like the water bottle kkenny. What keeps the bottle from flying off? Is it glued/epoxied on? Just a tight fit?
Also, how long is the valve open when it cycles?

Karoc: Thanks! I’ll check one of those out. I like the ball valve idea.
Valve opens for about 4sec. Just a tight fight 1/2 black pipe with threads. Works great
 

Shadowdog500

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Joined
Dec 7, 2009
Messages
9,843
Location
Down the shore
I shoot mine into a cake pan under the compressor and never had a problem.

I pull the string for a second or two to open the drain valve at the end of the day.

IMG-4086.jpg

IMG-4082.jpg

I origional started this setup with a semi truck air drain valve below but it would clog after a year so I switched to a ball valve.
IMG-3982.jpg
 

Stick-man

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Joined
Mar 16, 2013
Messages
295
Location
Mid-South Tennessee
I just drilled a hole for a 1/2" pvc tubing going out. It didn't bother me in the least. LOL
I crack the drain to clear the moisture, each night after I throw out the power disconnect.
 

drmarkr

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 5, 2006
Messages
4,209
Location
Tucson
Hey Guys,

I’m plumbing in an auto drain for my shop compressor. (80 gallon, 5hp)
I’ve got a solenoid valve that I’ll be hooking to a timer. Planning on having it cycle once a night in the wee hours so it doesn’t startle the heck out of me when it runs.
Originally I was going to just drill a hole in the side of the barn and blow it outside. Call me **** retentive but the thought of drilling a hole in the wall has been causing me some mild indigestion.
So I thought about discharging it into a bucket that would sit next to the compressor. Lid on the bucket, some vent holes so the bucket didn’t try to explode every time. Wondering if a chronically damp bucket would promote mold growth.

Then an idea hit me. I have an old pressure regulator with a water separator laying around. It’s an auto drain model with a sight glass on the front. Is there any good reason I couldn’t just mount that on a wall next to the compressor, plumb the discharge line into that and let it deal with the water? That’s what its purpose in life is . . . right? Maybe put a drain tube from that down into a bucket if I felt so inclined but I suspect it wouldn’t be necessary. (It never seemed necessary when it was in use earlier in its life on the main air line out to the shop, but we are talking about the drain now . . . We’re not talking about a lot of water each day . . .)

Am I being stupid here? Is there some glaringly obvious thing I’m overlooking that the instant one of you brings it up I’m going to smack my forehead and regret having even posted the question?
This seems like a reasonable solution to me . . .

FWIW, I’m gonna just run a 1/2” pex line out of the solenoid valve to whatever solution I go with. (Heavily leaning towards this regulator/water separator idea.) The pressure regulator will just have the exhaust end open. There won’t be any appreciable build up pressure downstream from the solenoid valve to inflate the pex. I’d mount this on the wall right over the bucket. (Photos attached)

What are your thoughts? Is this a good or bad idea?

-Dave
Somebody has way too much ******* time on their hands....
 

NUTTSGT

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Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,904
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Mine goes out the back wall into the shed, transitions into an old rubber air hose to the other side of the shed. Once at the course of block, it goes through the block in a piece of brake line. It's calked around the line.

If any bugs thinks they are going to build a home in it, good luck and welcome to 175 psi.
 

walta

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2017
Messages
2,310
Location
Dutzow Missouri
Draining it outdoors will ice become a problem in the winter?

How big a mess will it be to clean up should you allow the indoor bucket overflow?

Walta
 
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Aviatordave

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
58
Ok. Finally had some time between all of life’s bs and got it all hooked back up and my compressor is back in business. Thanks for all the tips and advice. Wound up just using a bucket. The solenoid and timer work like a charm.
Here’s a couple photos of the final product:
 

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Kaizen

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Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
6,948
Location
New England
thats a nice set up. I need to do something similiar. Mine has a flexible hose coming from the tank and it has let go twice. That will wake the neighborhood. 2am sounded like someone hit a gas line.
 
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Aviatordave

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
58
Thanks Kaizen. I’m happy with it. I always seem to be more pleased with the end result of these little projects after getting input from this community. Makes the process more enjoyable to hear and see what everybody else has done with their setups.

I’ve got it set for a daytime cycle for now just so I can keep an eye on it. Want to make sure all these Chinese manufactured parts are doing their job. It does get your heart rate up when that valve opens though. It’s not a slow event. It clicks open in less than a second and scares the **** out of you. Sounds much more like a hose or a fitting suddenly let go somewhere.
 

knightfire83

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2016
Messages
13
I shoot mine into a cake pan under the compressor and never had a problem.

I pull the string for a second or two to open the drain valve at the end of the day.

IMG-4086.jpg

IMG-4082.jpg

I origional started this setup with a semi truck air drain valve below but it would clog after a year so I switched to a ball valve.
IMG-3982.jpg
Same thing here, I just ran a drain hose outside. Turn off the compressor at the end of the day, pull the line until the drain runs clear.... Done.
 

brit vet

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
256
Location
Manchester, England
If you're really reaching those levels, I'll strongly suggest a dehumidifier or mini-split to keep your tools/vehicles from rusting in there.

Agreed on this. I try and keep my garage at 60% or less. Couple of years back before I installed a dehumidifier and split AC unit I was away for a few days and the humidity spiked. I came home to Corvette motors covered in condensation that caused me weeks of work to correct.
 

ATC

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Joined
May 12, 2012
Messages
8,268
Location
VA
I just have a ball valve on the bottom of mine I open every now and then. Vents straight out to a corner between the wall and a toolbox. No issues, and I'm in hot, humid, muggy VA
 
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