Am I going to hate this design?

[maxGarage]

Hi All,

I'm getting ready to pull the permit for my new garage.

Below are a bunch of pictures of the 3D mock up I did based on the plans.

This garage is being added to my property, about 100' away from my existing house. The funky two-tier roof is to achieve two goals: 1) match the look of the house 2) leave enough headroom in one bay for a 4-post auto lift without driving up the whole roof line.

The garage is 28' deep, and 26' wide. The tall bay will have a ceiling height of 13' on the outside wall and go up to 19.5' at the middle (6/12 roof). The short bay will start at 10' on the outside all and go up to 16.5' at the middle. There would be a post right in the middle supporting the ridge beam.

The plans have already been drawn by the architect and engineered by the PE. Before I pull the permit, I keep asking myself if I'm going to regret that big post in the middle. The ridge beam is currently a 6x14, and removing the post in the middle would likely drive it up to an 18" LVL or something massive along those lines. It's going to cost me ~$200 to have the engineer do the change, and the architect estimates ~ $300 to ~$500 for the bigger ridge beam.

The intent is to have a comfortable working environment and lots of storage. I've never had a garage with a post in the middle before.

What do you think? Will I regret that post? (Pics below)

Thanks,

Max

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[Playwme]

I'd be putting 2 posts in next to where the posts on the hoist sit, if its too hard to get rid of the post altogether. I think you will regret it where it currently sits in the drawing.

Nice design though, I like it. Can't wait to see the build progress.

 

[stikman56]

With a lift in there I don't know why it would matter. I would hate all that stuff in the way in a shop that size. I don't have a lift in mine even though I have lots of room for one. I hate having cramped work spaces.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Nice design, but I know I would hate the post in the middle. Put in a bigger beam.

 

[maxGarage]

The lift might not be there day 1, but I certainly want to plan for it. I have two classics I want to store plus a daily driver. A three car isn't an option because of the space I have available to build, so I figured a ~$2k 4 post lift to store a seldom-driven classic could be a solution.

 

[wdrumheller]

My two cents, what you're going to hate is that you didn't make it 10 feet wider or more for your personal work space when your cars are in there taking up room. This is just an opinion. The more space you have the better, and the cost is not THAT much greater for more space since you're already doing all the underlying work to get the actual project underway. Like the building, but I recommend going bigger when you can. I did and I don't regret it. Not for one second.

 

[Playwme]

Is the Porsche to scale? It looks a bit big in the space. Each side should be pretty close to 4 metres wide which should be plenty of space, but visually it looks a bit cramped.

 

[Fredro Starr]

I had my architect go back to the drawing board when I saw the final mockup and there was a post in the bay.

It cost ~5k to redo the ceiling design.

 

[maxGarage]

The Porsche is roughly to scale (just downloaded it), but is probably about 1' fat since they drew a turbo model. The lift does add width though.

26x28 is the absolute biggest I can do. I'm up against a property line setback, and am trying to avoid setting it right in front of my house.

I just called and asked for the engineer to work up the numbers for the new beam. It will cost me a couple hundred for his time. We'll see what he comes back with...

With those nice high ceilings, good lighting, and fairly generous dimensions for a 2 car, it will certainly been the nicest garage I've ever had to work in... Except for maybe that post

 

[Jackfre]

I would definitely eliminate the center post. As well, I'd add a few windows in that short wall on the roof. It would really aid air circulation in the space

 

[eastbaysubaru]

It doesn't look like there's much room for a bench and tool chest. Is this more for just parking cars?

-Brian

 

[pmiranda]

I'd also vote to get rid of the center posts, but you might need to save some money for a security system. There are a couple shady-looking characters hanging around it

 

[LXCam]

Neat look, but you will end up despising that post. Considering what the total cost is, it's just a small amount of money to cover the cost of an open floor plan. No matter how well you plan it, that post will always be right in the way of something.

BTW, welcome to the joint and good luck.

 

[Kpaige]

I dont know about where you all live but here in Mn if you goto a true lumber yard not a home depot! They have architects on staff and if you buy all you material through them they are free. All my additions and garage etc have all been fully designed drafted etc at no cost. I had to go back and have them put in a 24" by 28 ft lvl above my garage all engineering adjustments no charge.
There should be no reason for posts there a goid engineer would have excluded them frim the start.
But your design is cool will give good natural light also

 

[cdestuck]

Looks great but for 700 bucks, axe the middle post.

 

[larry_g]

Another consideration is to put TWO posts in that align with the posts on the lifts and make them out of the way. The single where you have it in relation to the 4 posts would be in the way.

There is a member here that built a building in that style that used the center post as a crane pole. Lets see if the members can find it for you.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[maxGarage]

Both for parking and working. Not earning a living, but working on projects. I'd love to build a real "shop", but this my reality. First garage build, on my first home. Next one will be even better Working on a pretty limited budget, doing everything but the slab finishing myself. Glad I have the backhoe for helping get that beam in place.

As far as a bench and chest, I'm planning to be able to use all of the width at the front. The way the cars are in the drawing, I have 8 or 9' from the front of the cars to the wall. I figure a 3' deep bench for about 2/3 of the width (about 17') and leave the rest open for my chest.

That doesn't leave a ton of room in front of the cars, but some. I could always back out the daily driver to make lots of working space in the left bay when needed.

Something like this:

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[ambenz]

Since you live in a southern state, ventilation and free lighting windows up on the roof wall might be a nice airflow/lighting option.

You could have them auto open based on outside air and indoor temp and or rain too. Something you might consider since your design would facilitate it. I know what you mean about landlocked, the biggest the village would let me built was 22x30 and I designed my hip roof to mimic the house.

I would have been better off with a gabled roof but it would have been a eye sore.

 

[maxGarage]

Forgot to mention, I live in the foothills and have something like 85 lbs / sqt ft of snow load according to the county, even though it only snows a few times a year. That's what drives up the beam requirements so much. Figures crossed the engineer comes back with a beam that won't break the bank.

 

[astroracer]

26x28 is the absolute biggest I can do. I'm up against a property line setback, and am trying to avoid setting it right in front of my house.

You said in your first post the garage is 100' from your house... How does that limit you to a 26 x 28. With that much room what is stopping you from going 26' x 128'? Just asking the question.
Mark
P.S.
With the shop that far from the house I would forget the complicated roof structure and just put in scissor trusses or go 12' on the sidewalls. Side and roof it to match the house and call it good. Take the saved money and go bigger footprint.

 

[luke-44]

You're going to curse that center beam... repeatedly.

 

[larry_g]

Found the garage I was looking for

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21771

This is near what you have in mind. Notice that I don't think the ridge beam is in the center of the building and with this bit of an offset one side of the post favors a larger work area vs cutting the space in 1/2.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Deej-79]

No way I'd want that post in there, guaranteed door dings. I would add the windows other guys have mentioned.

 

[James-W]

I would not want a center post either. I understand that it may be less expensive to have the center post, but having the post right in the middle of the garage would bother me more and more as time went by.

 

[rayra]

OP judging from the high concrete at the rear, this is being set into a hillside? What are your plans for controlling and redirecting water?

 

[ddawg16]

Yea, you are going to hate the design....

It reminds me of the classic....'trying to be different' look.

If the 'look' does not provide any function...then don't do it....

With that said.....my garage is a little 'different'.

The peak is offset a few feet. By doing this, it allowed me to have a bit more headroom on one side. I was limited to 15' total height.

 

[RivennHewn]

I would definitely eliminate the center post. As well, I'd add a few windows in that short wall on the roof. It would really aid air circulation in the space

My exact thoughts.

I'd pay extra to remove the post, and add operable window to the clear story.

The added light and ventilation would be nice additions.

 

[eastbaysubaru]

Both for parking and working. Not earning a living, but working on projects. I'd love to build a real "shop", but this my reality. First garage build, on my first home. Next one will be even better Working on a pretty limited budget, doing everything but the slab finishing myself. Glad I have the backhoe for helping get that beam in place.

As far as a bench and chest, I'm planning to be able to use all of the width at the front. The way the cars are in the drawing, I have 8 or 9' from the front of the cars to the wall. I figure a 3' deep bench for about 2/3 of the width (about 17') and leave the rest open for my chest.

That doesn't leave a ton of room in front of the cars, but some. I could always back out the daily driver to make lots of working space in the left bay when needed.

Ah, it's a lot easier to see the layout working with those additional renderings. It was hard to determine the room in front of the cars from the other renderings. Looks like it'll be a really nice space and as you said, you can always park one car outside for bigger projects. Good luck with the build.

-Brian

 

[eastbaysubaru]

My exact thoughts.

I'd pay extra to remove the post, and add operable window to the clear story.

The added light and ventilation would be nice additions.

I'll add another vote for both the clear floorplan and the additional windows. I wish I had more natural light in my garage.

-Brian

 

[fastbike02]

Since you live in a southern state, ventilation and free lighting windows up on the roof wall might be a nice airflow/lighting option.

You could have them auto open based on outside air and indoor temp and or rain too. Something you might consider since your design would facilitate it. I know what you mean about landlocked, the biggest the village would let me built was 22x30 and I designed my hip roof to mimic the house.

I would have been better off with a gabled roof but it would have been a eye sore.

I was about to suggest the same thing, I tinted a lady's house that was built the same way. If you do install a line of windows might I suggest a mirror tint, it will block a lot of the heat but still let a lot of natural light into your shop

 

[METALMOVER]

I have that same garage, I love it, my doors are are on the short side of the garage,I also have 3 rows of block, I did away with the round windows and put 4 square ones on each side of the loft area, its 24x36, I have the post in the center, doesnt bother me, 1 thing that threw me off in the build I didnt think about was the stairs, I have non conforming stairs and a lift to the second story. I also had all my drywall placed up there before I finished the roof.

 

[floridasailor]

We wanted our shop in Florida to have opening north facing windows for both light and ventilation. This clerestory style was based on the (previously mentioned)

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21771

Oregon build that JaysinSpaceman did so well.

What started out as a glue-lam wooden beam morphed into a 40 foot I Beam for our build. This gave us a 3000 pound lift capacity track to which I now have 3 trolleys and hoists.

I agree with the previous comments that you will hate the post shown in your drawing.

 

[wssix99]

I keep asking myself if I'm going to regret that big post in the middle.

You will hate yourself for all time.

I'd be putting 2 posts in next to where the posts on the hoist sit, if its too hard to get rid of the post altogether.

This is the inexpensive answer. ^ You can go with two posts, put them wherever you want, and as long as the distance between two posts is not 1/2 of the depth of the garage, the engineer should be able to bless the change without any additional work. No need to space the posts out evenly - you can put them wherever you need to in order to avoid your car doors.


I had a similar problem with a similar depth of the garage. We have a steel beam supporting a reinforced concrete wall above running across the garage, so I had to go steel and needed a column to avoid the expense (and physical size) of something on the order of a bridge girder. I went with two column and placed them to be clear of any car doors opening. (It's been great so far!)

 

[maxGarage]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone! We'll see what the engineer come back with for a beam to free span it.

 

[bczygan]

Hi All,

I'm getting ready to pull the permit for my new garage.

Below are a bunch of pictures of the 3D mock up I did based on the plans.

This garage is being added to my property, about 100' away from my existing house. The funky two-tier roof is to achieve two goals: 1) match the look of the house 2) leave enough headroom in one bay for a 4-post auto lift without driving up the whole roof line.

The garage is 28' deep, and 26' wide. The tall bay will have a ceiling height of 13' on the outside wall and go up to 19.5' at the middle (6/12 roof). The short bay will start at 10' on the outside all and go up to 16.5' at the middle. There would be a post right in the middle supporting the ridge beam.

The plans have already been drawn by the architect and engineered by the PE. Before I pull the permit, I keep asking myself if I'm going to regret that big post in the middle. The ridge beam is currently a 6x14, and removing the post in the middle would likely drive it up to an 18" LVL or something massive along those lines. It's going to cost me ~$200 to have the engineer do the change, and the architect estimates ~ $300 to ~$500 for the bigger ridge beam.

The intent is to have a comfortable working environment and lots of storage. I've never had a garage with a post in the middle before.

What do you think? Will I regret that post? (Pics below)

Thanks,

Max

Max,

You will hate yourself.

Your children will hate you.

Your grandchildren will hate you.

Generations of people yet unborn will hate you.

Down through the eons of future human history you will be remembered as a black mark on the history of humanity.

Get rid of the column.

Bill

 

[SIX225]

Is that beam going to be a LVL or something similar? What about replacing it with an I beam and then have a trolley on it so you could use it to pull an engine or something? Guessing the different roof lines are to gain extra height for the lift.

 

[Jack D]

I'm in the process of getting building permits for a small garage and the design has a small transom dormer and an LVL for a ridge beam to give me open ceiling with no joists. Your posts are going always be a problem. When costing out the windows for the dormer I opted to increase Window size about 5" higher to operating awning Windows. Got 200% more window area for 2% more cost. The mechanical controls on the awning Windows can be replaced with electric operators and opened from a remote console.. If you look at that option will get very good natural light and good ventilation with inside the window screens.

Jack

 

[ForceFed70]

I like the design. It does seem a little cramped and I'd encourage you to upsize 2 or 3' in each direction.

Might I also suggest building some storage space into the low side ceiling? Use the top 3' to create a shelf that can be accessed from the lift side. You could event use the lift to help get material up/down.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I don't think you'll hate the design, but having the triplets with sunglasses and books hanging around alll the time might get a little unnerving...

Tommy

 

[Onewolf]

My wife says.... That unless strippers come with the pole then you need to get rid of it. Truth.