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Am I missing anything for bare minimum electrical for my new garage?

reader2580

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I just had a new garage framed up this week. I am trying to be sure I have everything I need for the bare minimum of what a garage requires for electrical. I am pretty much out of money for the moment so I am doing the bare minimum for electrical to start. I have an electrical permit and it will be inspected.
  1. Load center with grounds and neutrals separated. Two ground rods outside.
  2. Receptacles at each garage door opener location and one additional receptacle.
  3. Lighting inside garage.
  4. One outside receptacle on separate circuit from inside.
  5. Light at service/man door.
Anything I am missing?
 
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sparky 1971

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I just had a new garage framed up this week. I am trying to be sure I have everything I need for the bare minimum of what a garage requires for electrical. I am pretty much out of money for the moment so I am doing the bare minimum for electrical to start. I have an electrical permit and it will be inspected.
  1. Load center with grounds and neutrals separated. Two ground rods outside.
Assuming it's a main breaker, you're good.
  1. Receptacles at each garage door opener location and one additional receptacle.
You need one receptacle in each parking stall, so unless it's a one car garage, you will need at least one more on the wall.
  1. Lighting inside garage.
  2. One outside receptacle on separate circuit from inside.
Doesn't have to be separate but there's nothing wrong with that.
  1. Light at service/man door.
Anything I am missing?
You probably already know it, but all receptacles, including the ceiling are supposed to be GFCI protected as well as be TR, the outside also needs to be TRWR: tamper resistant weather resistant
 

Jay H 237

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Light by the garage door too? Flood lights basically to see in that area of the driveway or something parked right outside the garage.
 

AffableCurmudgeon

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If you think you will put a lift in it, perhaps outlets by the doors for jackshaft openers. Extending the celling garage door outlets to that location is not going to cost that much.
 
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reader2580

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Light by the garage door too? Flood lights basically to see in that area of the driveway or something parked right outside the garage.
I am going to skip any non-required exterior lighting for now to save money. I will mount blocks for more lighting when I do the siding, The inside walls will be open so I can run wiring later.
 
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reader2580

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I am definitely setting things up for future expansion. I am not adding any additional lighting beyond what is required for now, but I will put blocks in the siding for future lighting. I am looking at what the minimum is to pass my electrical inspection, not the ideal electrical configuration. I can do more electrical in 2025 when I have saved up more money.

This is a storage garage for my motorhome. I have no plans to park other vehicle in there except a couple of smallish trailers. The city considers it an accessory structure as my existing detached garage is my primary garage per the city. I may have to talk to the inspector about required receptacles although I guess receptacles are not that expensive. I have 12 AWG NM-B already, but not sure how much I have.

My load center does not have a main breaker. I will use a hold down kit on the breaker that acts as the main.
 

Norcal

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I am definitely setting things up for future expansion. I am not adding any additional lighting beyond what is required for now, but I will put blocks in the siding for future lighting. I am looking at what the minimum is to pass my electrical inspection, not the ideal electrical configuration. I can do more electrical in 2025 when I have saved up more money.

This is a storage garage for my motorhome. I have no plans to park other vehicle in there except a couple of smallish trailers. The city considers it an accessory structure as my existing detached garage is my primary garage per the city. I may have to talk to the inspector about required receptacles although I guess receptacles are not that expensive. I have 12 AWG NM-B already, but not sure how much I have.

My load center does not have a main breaker. I will use a hold down kit on the breaker that acts as the main.
One of the reasons I like bolt-on breakers, no hold down required. :)
 

larry_g

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Some years back when I built my shop the only thing required for electrical inspection and signoff was one receptical, that was located near the breaker box. What you list was required for final signoff of the building.
 

sparky 1971

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Some years back when I built my shop the only thing required for electrical inspection and signoff was one receptical, that was located near the breaker box. What you list was required for final signoff of the building.
Now it's one light inside, one light outside for the service door, and one receptacle per parking stall. There is supposed to be a 20 amp circuit for receptacles only, exterior can be included. I've heard the inspectors here will let that slide if it's a small detached garage and allow the lights to share the circuit with the recepacles even though it's not quite right. I don't remember the last time I ran one circuit to a garage and it's been at least five years since I ran only two.
 
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reader2580

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It sounds like the list I've provided will be the minimum required. I need to email the electrical inspector about the one receptacle per parking stall thing.
 

u2slow

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I ran out of money so I didn't start any electrical on the shop at all. Money well saved.

Can you change your mind and get your permit refunded? Do a more comprehensive job later with a better budget....
 
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reader2580

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I ran out of money so I didn't start any electrical on the shop at all. Money well saved.

Can you change your mind and get your permit refunded? Do a more comprehensive job later with a better budget....
I want to have some electricity in there. Nothing I am doing to start will have to be ripped out to do future electrical work.

I already have 90% of the stuff to do the electrical work. I buried the conduit from my current garage to the new garage before a concrete apron was poured in front of the current garage.

This is mainly storage for my motorhome, not a shop.
 

u2slow

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I guess I was more broke.... plus, I couldn't forecast my needs worth a darn without it spiralling out of control. Ran temporary stuff for a long time. Anyway....

Panel with a proper main breaker.

Would do at least two receptacles outside (opposite walls) and also 2 inside (opposite walls).

Maybe you want a 30A RV receptacle?
 
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luvtheheat

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My area requires all outlets to be GFCI (even if on the ceiling as I found out in a failed inspection), and at least 18" above floor so that low-lying combustible fumes won't somehow self-ignite.
 

mike93lx

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What is a garage without provision for a welder and battery charging?
A garage where welding won't be done? As in most garages

What kind of battery charging do you mean? A 120v receptacle will run a 12v/power tool charger and if it's an evse, that can be added later when an actual need arises, which is unlikely in a RV storage space
 

sparky 1971

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What is a garage without provision for a welder and battery charging?
The type where all that is wanted is to meet the minimum requirements to pass an inspection. That is: one inside light, one exterior light at the service door, one receptacle for every parking stall, and another for each door opener, if present. There are plenty of capable homeowner welders that will run on 120, the same with battery chargers.
 

alfredeneuman

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My area requires all outlets to be GFCI (even if on the ceiling as I found out in a failed inspection)
And the GFI itself cannot be on the ceiling. It's got to be readily accessible.
You could do one of three things. Use a GFI breaker and give the whole circuit protection, install a GFI recp on the wall ahead of the ceiling, or use a blank GFI (one without the receptacle) on the wall before the ceiling.
 

u2slow

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Can probably weld off that 50A RV circuit...

Maybe you want to surface mount the panel so its easier to add extra stuff later; in surface conduit.
 

niget2002

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Josephine, TX
A 50 amp RV receptacle is the only extra electrical I am doing.
Do you need the full 50 for the RV while only in storage? If all you need to run are a few lights while packing, the refrigerator, one AC, and battery charger, you may be able to get away with only 30.
 

ronr80

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I have told this to many people and friends , I'm on my 3 rd garage build and got it right , when you run the wires for electrical plugs put the outlets 40 inches from the floor , trust me when you fill the garage up with stuff , instead of reaching low , the plugs will be right there easy to reach. 20 amp plugs are painted red. put in lots of them.
One friend had his built and told the builder about the plugs and he thought it was a brilliant idea. R
 

purplezr2

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Either the OP's original post is to vague, people have not read the threads by the OP relating to this structure, or reading comprehension is poor based on the responses here.

The OP is not looking for the minimum anyone would do, but more so what is the minimum required to be code complaint.
 

isb cornbinder

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My neighbour is a minimalist, aka cheap. He has a breaker box/panel and two outlet receptacles close by. One receptacle is 120 volts and the other receptacle is 220 volts. I doubt he has ever operated his import compressor.
He runs everything off extension cords that he borrowed from me 30 years ago. I do not want my ex-cords back. I do no lend anything, now.
 

nadogail

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We all tend to look at things from our own paradigm (Point Of View). Because I do things I assume everybody else does things or at a minimum has intentions of being able to do things someday.

My first dedicated workspace was a bedroom in an apartment, later I became the owner of a garage and was able to plug my saw into the 220 receptacle serving the clothes dryer, now I have a dedicated 50 Amp circuit for my welding. I do tend to forget not everyone shares the same priorities and aspirations
 
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reader2580

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Do you need the full 50 for the RV while only in storage? If all you need to run are a few lights while packing, the refrigerator, one AC, and battery charger, you may be able to get away with only 30.
I already have the wire left over from a previous project. The price of a 30 amp or 50 amp GFCI breaker are basically the same. The receptacle might cost a couple of bucks more.
 

u2slow

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The OP is not looking for the minimum anyone would do, but more so what is the minimum required to be code complaint.

Besides the panel... one interior light on a switch, and one general use receptacle. (A detached garage is not a dwelling unit.) If an electric garage door opener is fitted, then another circuit is probably required. (Nobody says you must have an electric opener.)

Disclaimer - NEC is not my Code.
 

dscheidt

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I have told this to many people and friends , I'm on my 3 rd garage build and got it right , when you run the wires for electrical plugs put the outlets 40 inches from the floor , trust me when you fill the garage up with stuff , instead of reaching low , the plugs will be right there easy to reach. 20 amp plugs are painted red. put in lots of them.
One friend had his built and told the builder about the plugs and he thought it was a brilliant idea. R
[/QUO
I've been extending my outlets from 4' the floor to 16", so I can actually use them without the cord being a tripping hazard when it's pulled tight (which it always is, because they're always too short.) I don't disagree that it's easier to use a high receptacle in a garage, because it's less likely to be blocked by junk, but my experience with garage (and workshops generally) outlets is that they're always in the wrong place, so plan on revising the layout after you're in the space.
 
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