Am I using these shackles correctly to support my engine?

[AVR2]

I've borrowed an older type of engine support beam, and had to supply my own chains and shackles. The shackles are certified to 1 tonne (the engine weighs 450lbs), and my question is, is it safe to attach them as shown in the photos, with the load being carried by the pin rather than the horseshoe-shaped part of the shackle? This might well sound like a dumb question, but I want to be 100% sure before I slide under an engine supported by chains.

 

[mike93lx]

I wouldn't get under anything that a single point of failure would injure me. The shackles might be 1 ton, but what's the chain rated for?

 

[Retired dozer fixer]

That shackle pin will hold more than that dog chain will. You’ll be fine

 

[liliysdad]

That setup is typically used with two chains with hooks, looping through the shackle and over the hooks on the load leveler.

That being said, your setup will likely work just fine and I wouldn't be scared of it. My go-to engine lifting device is an ancient Snap-On cable sling, and everything about it is a single point of failure. Once you get comfortable with the fact that you can lift an entire FE Ford with a C6 attached using only the 1/4" carburetor bolts and a carb plate, this sort of thing gets a lot less scary.

 

[JradM]

You're not going to break the pin. It's thicker than the chain.

If you actually have to get underneath it, you should have some backup support regardless.

 

[AVR2]

I wouldn't get under anything that a single point of failure would injure me. The shackles might be 1 ton, but what's the chain rated for?

Having checked again, the engine is actually 374 lbs, the chain is rated to 500 lbs (I'll have two chains on it at opposite ends of the engine). The engine is also bearing some of its weight on its right-hand mount, which is still installed; I have the transmission off as I'm doing the clutch, and on removing the flywheel I discovered I needed to do the crank seal too, which requires dropping the oil pan - at the moment, I've got a floor jack under the oil pan.

 

[rust in the eye]

No. May as well just use a bolt, washers and a nut.
Put the shackle through the lift hook on the engine and the pin through the chain. The pin needs only to be finger tight.
450# engine should be no challenge for that chain or shackles.

 

[cannuck]

It will work but not how an anchor shackle is designed to be loaded. The correct/preferred way of rigging such a connection is called a "double clevis" or "twin clevis" as in this link. The other option is what is normally provided on such a rig - a hook on each chaiin - but those are often too large to fit in lifting eyes of the engine (or cylinder head). Other option is a smaller anchor shackle if you can fit it through lifting eye or chain link.

3/8" Twin Clevis Link | RIGGING CANADA

The 3/8\" Twin Clevis Link is made from heat treated carbon steel with an alloy steel pin and has a zinc & painted finish with a 4:1 design factor. Buy them at RIGGING CANADA.

riggingcanada.ca

 

[Blueshound_GJ]

I've borrowed an older type of engine support beam, and had to supply my own chains and shackles. The shackles are certified to 1 tonne (the engine weighs 450lbs), and my question is, is it safe to attach them as shown in the photos, with the load being carried by the pin rather than the horseshoe-shaped part of the shackle? This might well sound like a dumb question, but I want to be 100% sure before I slide under an engine supported by chains.

That looks like a strong setup (better than most I've seen) and I don't think it matters which way you put the shackle on. Not a bad idea to double up, though not as critical since one motor mount will still be connected.

 

[chevy.stroker]

Technically you are putting the pin in a side load. The side load should be placed on the shackle with the pulling force perpendicular to the pin.

If you had a D shackle it should have no side force.

 

[RickP330]

Lots of good responses here, Yes it ought to work. but that pin should technically be loaded in shear only. you are pulling the loop part and putting the pin in tensile load. But it's overkill from any angle. Put jackstands under it before you slide under it.
RP

 

[mrklean]

Looks like this question is arising out of the fact you might only have those short lengths of small chain to do this. Not sure what job you're doing, but I see a load bar, vs a hoist, so I assume you're just supporting the engine.

Looking at it, I wouldn't be worried about the shackle, more about the chain. Without seeing it in real life, can't tell what thickness the chain is. @chevy.stroker is right, you are mis-loading the shackle, but 450lb's split in approx half, isn't much weight.

It's doubtful you'll have the right straps, but you could also likely do this with soft straps and choke it.

If you want to enhance the pucker-factor a bit, and to be fair, it's how I'd do it with limited tooling and the small engine shown here, a medium ratchet strap is commonly rated at 500lb+ working load. Two of those would be more than enough and be able to work at the angle of attachment, better.

Not sure how "rummage sales" or garage/tag/yard sales work in the UK, but might be worth hunting for some lengths of chain. Or to be fair, it's really not too expensive at the store.

Disclaimer: None of this is legal or real life advice. My advice should be taken for entertainment purposes only.

 

[billconner]

chain is rated to 500 lbs

Is that "safe working load" or breaking strength? Chain manufactures typically use a factor of 3 or 4 for SWL over breaking. People in my industry (stage rigging) use a factor of 8 or 10.

 

[AVR2]

Put the shackle through the lift hook on the engine and the pin through the chain.

Not an option unfortunately, the "ears" of the shackle are too big to fit through the lift point.

 

[AVR2]

Is that "safe working load" or breaking strength?

SWL, according to the packaging.

 

[VolvoRyan]

I agree with others, you're loading that pin completely wrong, but it's probably fine.

-Ryan

 

[LopezBart]

If you have two shackles per connection point, it works....

 

[jpaw]

It will be fine but as noted the pin is improperly loaded.

 

[Wrench97]

Having checked again, the engine is actually 374 lbs, the chain is rated to 500 lbs (I'll have two chains on it at opposite ends of the engine). The engine is also bearing some of its weight on its right-hand mount, which is still installed; I have the transmission off as I'm doing the clutch, and on removing the flywheel I discovered I needed to do the crank seal too, which requires dropping the oil pan - at the moment, I've got a floor jack under the oil pan.

If the mount is still bolted up to the front of the engine use 2 chains on the rear, there is no good reason to support the front that is bolted to the car.

 

[welder4956]

You could get another shackle to go between the chain and existing shackle, but I think what you have will work.

 

[dutchgray]

It's not the correct way to use the shackle but it won't break.
Considering how many engines I have seen lifted using a length of old seat belt webbing or tatty old pieces of rope, I wouldn't worry to much.

 

[liliysdad]

Snap On Sling

Been having an ancient version of this for years….

 

[cgrutt]

You could get another shackle to go between the chain and existing shackle, but I think what you have will work.

That's what I'd do in this case as well. I'm sure it will be fine esp since you still have engine supported by an engine mount (if I'm following correctly). I'd wrap a ratchet strap around engine and tie it off to the main beam if you wanted to add some redundancy. But believe you will be fine.

 

[2oolhound]

Another important factor with slings, chains and rigging equipment is the angle of the chain. These things are safety rated at 5:1 on a STRAIGHT lift. If your chains are on an angle their load rating is compromised. The safe working load (SWL) of a chain straight up and down is equal to 2 chains coming off the same shackle at 45' angles. You should not exceed a 45' angle or the SWL gets less than a single chain and gets weaker as the angle increases.

Your photo only shows one chain connected but at a great angle. Looks like you still need to connect a second chain however the angle of the chains may be too severe and may require longer chains to lessen the angle. You could come straight up with the chain and wrap around the beam and back down to the same shackle
Example: 2 - 2' chains connected to a shackle and connected to a engine at points 2' apart will create a 45' angle on your chains.

This internet photo is bad. The angle on the chains is greater than 45' so the 2 chains are weaker than 1 chain. I had a rigger's ticket in the 70's and worked with rigging in construction and logging. No one ever rigged anything like you see in this photo. Sure you can use 1" chain and it'd take it but just the sight of it sets off alarm bells and it's just not done. The distance from the 2 mounting points on the I beam should be the same length as the chains or smaller but never bigger. It should have longer chains here or a shorter spreader bar.

Google "Handbook for riggers" and you should find some good info and diagrams.

 

[liliysdad]

Another important factor with slings, chains and rigging equipment is the angle of the chain. These things are safety rated at 5:1 on a STRAIGHT lift. If your chains are on an angle their load rating is compromised. The safe working load (SWL) of a chain straight up and down is equal to 2 chains coming off the same shackle at 45' angles. You should not exceed a 45' angle or the SWL gets less than a single chain and gets weaker as the angle increases.

Your photo only shows one chain connected but at a great angle. Looks like you still need to connect a second chain however the angle of the chains may be too severe and may require longer chains to lessen the angle. You could come straight up with the chain and wrap around the beam and back down to the same shackle
Example: 2 - 2' chains connected to a shackle and connected to a engine at points 2' apart will create a 45' angle on your chains.

This internet photo is bad. The angle on the chains is greater than 45' so the 2 chains are weaker than 1 chain. I had a rigger's ticket in the 70's and worked with rigging in construction and logging. No one ever rigged anything like you see in this photo. Sure you can use 1" chain and it'd take it but just the sight of it sets off alarm bells and it's just not done. The distance from the 2 mounting points on the I beam should be the same length as the chains or smaller but never bigger. It should have longer chains here or a shorter spreader bar.

Google "Handbook for riggers" and you should find some good info and diagrams.

And it will still be just fine for what he’s doing.

 

[Walkers]

You guys are hilarious sometimes! That shackle pin won’t even have half of the engine weight on it. That whole bar just sits on the sheet metal. He is not picking this engine up and slinging it in a circle.

 

[nadogail]

Overkill is Underrated.

 

[liliysdad]

Overkill is Underrated.

Good enough is good enough

 

[Renegade1LI]

Better than me, I would have used a bolt & nut.

 

[2oolhound]

I'm not talking about the pin, it's the angle of the small chain that has me concerned. Maybe I'm not understanding what weight he's lifting but that small chain looks like it's on an incredible angle. If that's the case thats how fingers get lost.

Here's where I was going with this.





Download this rigging manual here

I'm not coming down on the op here as much as saying never mind the pin guys, look at the chain angle. It's losing 1/2 it's strength or more. I wanted to add this tidbit to the conversation so other folks will be aware of this fact when rigging stuff.

 

[Wrench97]

I'm not talking about the pin, it's the angle of the small chain that has me concerned. Maybe I'm not understanding what weight he's lifting but that small chain looks like it's on an incredible angle. If that's the case thats how fingers get lost.

Here's where I was going with this.





Download this rigging manual here

I'm not coming down on the op here as much as saying never mind the pin guys, look at the chain angle. It's losing 1/2 it's strength or more. I wanted to add this tidbit to the conversation so other folks will be aware of this fact when rigging stuff.

It really does not matter that end of the engine is still bolted to the car and really does not need any support.

 

[Jswain]

Email the shackle company and ask them how much weight it will hold directly side loading the shackle.

When they don't respond or tell you not to do that then adjust your rigging. I wouldn't work under that ****.

The biggest bolt that could fit through the chain with a fender washer on each side would be better. Cheap shackles have been known to fail, especially when side loaded which is why most industry standards are Crosby shackles, 4 piece for anything overhead.(at least north of the border)

 

[liliysdad]

I am constantly amazed most of you people get anything accomplished by the time you break out your rigging manuals and calculate the side load of the shackle, all while waiting for an engineers stamp on your plan of attack.

Jeez….its not the right way, but it’s the good enough way. The damned thing is still bolted to the car…it will be just fine. I’ve seen engines pulled with everything from ratchet straps to grade 80 chains. Good enough is good enough.

 

[Walkers]

I'm not talking about the pin, it's the angle of the small chain that has me concerned. Maybe I'm not understanding what weight he's lifting but that small chain looks like it's on an incredible angle. If that's the case thats how fingers get lost.

Here's where I was going with this.





Download this rigging manual here

I'm not coming down on the op here as much as saying never mind the pin guys, look at the chain angle. It's losing 1/2 it's strength or more. I wanted to add this tidbit to the conversation so other folks will be aware of this fact when rigging stuff.

Maybe wait until he puts on the other chain...

 

[cgrutt]

I still remember the good 'ol days screwed an eye hook into the 2x floor joist and pulled the motor in my friend's Capri with a comealong. His dad came home saw engine hanging in garage under his kitchen and flipped out LOL...

I recently pulled motor in wife's Mercedes and supported transmission with an old steel jack handle across the shock towers and a ratchet strap.

OP will be fine...

 

[Jswain]

I am constantly amazed most of you people get anything accomplished by the time you break out your rigging manuals and calculate the side load of the shackle, all while waiting for an engineers stamp on your plan of attack.

Jeez….its not the right way, but it’s the good enough way. The damned thing is still bolted to the car…it will be just fine. I’ve seen engines pulled with everything from ratchet straps to grade 80 chains. Good enough is good enough.

Yeah a trip to the hardware store for 2x 3 dollhair hooks would take so much more time then waiting 2 days for this thread.