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Jacobs976

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Sep 11, 2020
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830
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Indiana
Update on the vevor ultrasonic cleaner that was on sale before. It lasted 3 months, probably 20 cycles total. Something electrical burned up. Currently awaiting seller response to see if they'll honor the 1 year warranty. Vevor CS says the warranty is sellers responsibility but I can continue the conversation if seller doesn't comply however options are limited because it was purchased through a distributor instead of vevor directly.

Might be worth noting that vevor may not honor warranty if you buy their items from distributors.

 

ching0n

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Jul 21, 2016
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Update on the vevor ultrasonic cleaner that was on sale before. It lasted 3 months, probably 20 cycles total. Something electrical burned up. Currently awaiting seller response to see if they'll honor the 1 year warranty. Vevor CS says the warranty is sellers responsibility but I can continue the conversation if seller doesn't comply however options are limited because it was purchased through a distributor instead of vevor directly.

Might be worth noting that vevor may not honor warranty if you buy their items from distributors.

I burnt the fuse on my HF one but haven't replaced it (the fuse). Had to crack it open though. I've only used that exact vevor one maybe half a dozen times so far & the smaller about the same. The vevor cable seemed a bit cheap, check voltage on it?
 

Jacobs976

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Messages
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Location
Indiana
I burnt the fuse on my HF one but haven't replaced it (the fuse). Had to crack it open though. I've only used that exact vevor one maybe half a dozen times so far & the smaller about the same. The vevor cable seemed a bit cheap, check voltage on it?
Cord is rated for 300v apparently, end says 2.5A 250v. Unit says 100-120v with no amperage rating but says 35w.

Looks like the cord is, assuming accurate ratings, fine for it since I'm using a 120v wall plug. The unit ran fine then the ultrasonic stopped and computer reset on cycle ending instead of saving the cycle duration.

I noticed the usual electrical fire smell as well and something is rattling inside it now.

Haven't opened it up because I'm waiting to see what the seller says in case they claim opening it up damaged it. The assumption would be something overheated, probably a fuse or something in the actual ultrasonic assembly since the computer is still functioning.
 

dogdog

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12,711
I burnt the fuse on my HF one but haven't replaced it (the fuse). Had to crack it open though. I've only used that exact vevor one maybe half a dozen times so far & the smaller about the same. The vevor cable seemed a bit cheap, check voltage on it?
The hf smaller unit I have, Almost 10 years and washed 3x completely immerse in water to wash off….. dusts and…

Anyways so far still works. After letting it dry completely of cause. At least mine, the older first gen ones is a 65 watt transducer.

The 5 gallon vevor I got last year works well but way too big for small stuff
 

Jacobs976

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Messages
830
Location
Indiana
I burnt the fuse on my HF one but haven't replaced it (the fuse). Had to crack it open though. I've only used that exact vevor one maybe half a dozen times so far & the smaller about the same. The vevor cable seemed a bit cheap, check voltage on it?
Seller finally responded and requested I open the machine up and take pics of the bottom of tank and the board.
PXL_20240912_101029305.jpg
PXL_20240912_101058478.jpg
Fire smell appears to be coming from the EE28-110V (4033) part and there's black particles on the yellow insulating tape.

Not sure what the coil does but the issue is power isn't getting to the ultrasonic mechanism.
 
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ching0n

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Seller finally responded and requested I open the machine up and take pics of the bottom of tank and the board.
PXL_20240912_101029305.jpg
PXL_20240912_101058478.jpg
Fire smell appears to be coming from the EE28-110V (4033) part and there's black particles on the yellow insulating tape.

Not sure what the coil does but the issue is power isn't getting to the ultrasonic mechanism.
I don't see a replaceable fuse (unless on other side of board). It's possible the transformer's insulation failed shorting it. Did you grab it at 15$?
 

ching0n

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Every Vevor product I have purchased ended up being sent back or thrown in the trash.
It's a bit harbor freight-ish. Some of the products are well rated, a lot of hit & miss. I've had more luck than not fortunately but stuff often requires 'tweaking' of some sort.
 

ching0n

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Jul 21, 2016
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Aluminum so rust resistant but not strip resistant

Here's another in steel:

Just got this. The case may be ok but the coating on these and labeling isn't great. The laser etching is subpar and it's barely legible on the zinc coated ones because there is no contrast. The whole point of ID'ing is to ID. They lack any rust inhibitor so I can notice some corrosion starting. On the zinc ones it's a very light coat and I can see it failing already. I'll check the threads against the other thread checker when it gets here but maybe it's best to get some w/a stamped ID and/or engrave it on there yourself.
Also in on one and I also ordered this one because I don't have time for cases so I'll just store on this instead (claims stainless but I've only ever seen aluminum); we'll see how it is with 1 review:

1725972921346.png
Update:
just got the 2nd thread checker (non detachable) and it's beautifully made. Looks like powder coated or cerakoated steel(edit: checked with magnet, likely it's anodized aluminum but feels heavy due to studs). The studs are what's stainless.

I checked the cheapo standoffs and noticed two issues, the 3/8's-16 & 10mmx1.5 were switched around. I checked with a thread gauge to confirm that it wasn't the new thread checker and it's indeed the cheapo one that' switched. No big deal, since at least I got a complete set.

Most of them went in by hand on both male and female though a few took more effort and would not bottom completely. The tool does the job regardless. I blame the threads on the cheapo one, not the new one.

I checked the rest of the thread I'm missing on the new checker w/a gauge and they were all fine. Only downside is it's fairly long so make sure you have the wall/shelf space to hang it.
 
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ching0n

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Jul 21, 2016
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For mixing and matching, it looks like the PowerTec plates are the closest match, outside dimensions about 1/16" - 1/8" larger than the plates that come in the Dozawa caster/plate kit. It looks like they should work.

More PowerTec info:
71132 - Plates only
17000 - Poly Wheel Casters only
17001 - Poly Wheel Casters only, Multi-Mount
17002 - Poly Wheel Casters with Plates
Well, I did not follow my own advise about checking dimensions and ordered the spring loaded set. Looks like there's 600lb & 880lb class casters and these are for the larger casters which don't match the dimensions of mine. they look very well made & if I can find cheap 880lb class casters maybe I'll keep them but I think they're going back.

The plates will accept workbench casters with an assembly mount plate that measures 3-9/16” tall x 2-3/8” wide x 5/32” thick. The spring lock plates have been designed to fit most styles and brand of workbench
 

Jacobs976

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Sep 11, 2020
Messages
830
Location
Indiana
I don't see a replaceable fuse (unless on other side of board). It's possible the transformer's insulation failed shorting it. Did you grab it at 15$?
No replaceable fuse. I think the transformer started to burn up but I think the transducer probably also burned up. Thought it had a heating element but it doesn't, meaning the heat it was generating was all the transducer overheating as well.

Got it at $10 so I'm not out anything really considering it did 30 cycles actually pretty well. Main thing was seeing what the 1 year warranty amounted to.
 

ching0n

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No replaceable fuse. I think the transformer started to burn up but I think the transducer probably also burned up. Thought it had a heating element but it doesn't, meaning the heat it was generating was all the transducer overheating as well.

Got it at $10 so I'm not out anything really considering it did 30 cycles actually pretty well. Main thing was seeing what the 1 year warranty amounted to.
I think the fluid heats up from the vibration since you're causing cavitation on the parts. I believe it's why they don't recommend flammables.

What I meant about the cable voltage was to check w/a multimeter to make sure it's not the cable that's burnt.
 

Jacobs976

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Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
830
Location
Indiana
I think the fluid heats up from the vibration since you're causing cavitation on the parts. I believe it's why they don't recommend flammables.

What I meant about the cable voltage was to check w/a multimeter to make sure it's not the cable that's burnt.
The plastic body showed signs of potentially melting too although I can't say it's from usage or the molding process. The flammable thing is due to static electricity potential along with fumes generated from most combustible liquids.

My good multimeter was permanently borrowed by a coworker so I'll have to see if I have any spares. I don't believe the issue would be related to the cord burning up though. Testing resistance through the transducer connector would probably give a odd resistance though since it maintained some power, just not enough to actually work.

Basically it was operating in low power then the computer began resetting on end of cycle too. That would suggest something shorting and some resistance increasing which would make sense if transducer blew and transformer was following.
 

mrb1

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Aug 20, 2021
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Location
Miami County, Ohio
Always keep a couple push button setups on hand for kids (or some adults;)). Modern version of the classic Zebco 33. Mostly "metal" with real bearings. Almost the lowest in years. Good UToob reviews. Two coming tomorrow. (Same $$ as Wallyworld currently)

55.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089HBLGFP?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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