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ching0n

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I've got a small engine that's being a pain in my *** right now and I've checked everything but compression or valvetrain. I might tear the head apart before this gets here. Pros: cheap (you can save a few bux going w/a lower rated seller), cons: aluminum fittings, yuck:


edit: I may hold off on this one for now. Looks like since this is a rebadge engineering job, Briggs got the specs wrong in the manual for idle rpm. I found the Mitsubishi manual now & it's likely running at the correct rpm.

1741989030845.png
 
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jayemm

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I've got a small engine that's being a pain in my *** right now and I've checked everything but compression or valvetrain. I might tear the head apart before this gets here. Pros: cheap (you can save a few bux going w/a lower rated seller), cons: aluminum fittings, yuck:


edit: I may hold off on this one for now. Looks like since this is a rebadge engineering job, Briggs got the specs wrong in the manual for idle rpm. I found the Mitsubishi manual now & it's likely running at the correct rpm.

1741989030845.png
If it's only 0 to 100 PSI it seems pretty limited for automotive engine compression testing.
 

tabs

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from the looks of it i'd say they're one of the main liquidators for that company/brand because they've got tons more listed that wasn't posted.

i just got a drill press and hose/reel in today. literally ordered it early AM yesterday. manufacturer packaging for both, in good shape, haven't opened either but would def buy again from them.
 

Skellyii

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Not necessarily a great set. But for that price, which surprising includes free shipping even if you only need a couple of sockets and a ratchet for your grab and go box, it's tough to pass up.
 

ching0n

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If it's only 0 to 100 PSI it seems pretty limited for automotive engine compression testing.
that's a good catch. I was hoping to avoid buying just a compression tester....though I found them as cheap as 13$. Are leakdown tests done at lower pressures or this kit geared more for small engines?
 

ching0n

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Likely bought a pallet or container of them for scrap value when True Value went under.
I think a lot of these amazon stores go under or they must get rid of inventory that's not moving because storage is killing them. Their loss our gain type of scenario.
 

ching0n

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I picked up a pressure washer off FB w/a bad hose and a dirty carb. I found some deals that may work for others (I'm attempting hydrojetting my main waste line):

My machine has a wand but this stubby gun makes things easier for this and other tasks. They're usually in the 20 $ range:
1742065910308.png

50' of 3/8 4kpsi hose w/swivel; there's some cheaper w/o swivel or shorter lengths:
1742065534539.png

There's 5kpsi kits out there but not w/a "flush gauge" like this one:
1742065663015.png

this was 10$ when I grabbed it (1/4):
1742065596779.png

I already have a few of these nozzles but I wanted the spinning reverse cone one from this kit:
1742065736007.png

Another cheap 3/8 nozzle....will have to double check if BSP will work though FYI:


1742065231692.png

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08421KRV2?tag=atomicindus08-20 ; these are for garden hose pressure. I'll try to clog by street side using the hi pressure hose & a bladder
1742065288635.png

In case I needed to open the jet in carb:
1742065383991.png

cheap jets for mikuni carb:
1742065438423.png

Someone posted the brass brushes from this comp but they had gone up in price. The brass coated copper ones were reasonable:
1742065830980.png
 

jayemm

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that's a good catch. I was hoping to avoid buying just a compression tester....though I found them as cheap as 13$. Are leakdown tests done at lower pressures or this kit geared more for small engines?
Reading the description closer this time.... it says" compression LEAKAGE tester" and the gauges would seem to support that rather than just a compression tester. Beyond that, I don't know anything more.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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If it's only 0 to 100 PSI it seems pretty limited for automotive engine compression testing.
I made my own leakdown tester decades ago...
It may be labeled as a compression tester, but its not. It's a leak down tester. Typically you would put 100psi of air in the cylinder at tdc and the other gauge would read the leakage. Because the 2nd guage is in % it doesn't really need the full 100psi. But if you use a 2nd gauge with psi, its much easier to figure out the % leaking if the air input is at 100psi.
 

finn

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I made my own leakdown tester decades ago...
It may be labeled as a compression tester, but its not. It's a leak down tester. Typically you would put 100psi of air in the cylinder at tdc and the other gauge would read the leakage. Because the 2nd guage is in % it doesn't really need the full 100psi. But if you use a 2nd gauge with psi, its much easier to figure out the % leaking if the air input is at 100psi.
A leak down tester is probably a more suitable tool for evaluating the condition of an engine than a compression tester anyway.
 

ching0n

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I made my own leakdown tester decades ago...
It may be labeled as a compression tester, but its not. It's a leak down tester. Typically you would put 100psi of air in the cylinder at tdc and the other gauge would read the leakage. Because the 2nd guage is in % it doesn't really need the full 100psi. But if you use a 2nd gauge with psi, its much easier to figure out the % leaking if the air input is at 100psi.
I figured leak down testers could do double duty by using the high side connected to the sparkplug hole if the gauge read high enough? Looking at the more expensive ones, it looks like they all top at 100psi so I might be wrong. I guess one could swap gauges but it doesn't look like these have the quick pressure release valve of comp testers.

1742074704729.png
 
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finn

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Guys, this is an Amazon deals thread. Please leave the eBay stuff elsewhere.
The same Master Mechanic tool set is on Amazon, for the same $45.** price. Can’t find the link though, since I’m incompetent.

Edit. Either I looked at it wrong, or the price tripled since I first looked at it on Amazon.
 
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Aileron

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A leak down tester will show you if your leaking through exhaust, intake , passed the rings or incase of a head gasket cylinder to cylinder. I only use it 80 psi, it gives you a percentage of leaking say 2% or so. Imo its better than a compression tester.
 

MichaelP

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Heh.

I am working on a solution for this as well. There's limited space for movement between the tool body and the guard, but probably enough. I am also looking to cut and add a strip, but if that does not work, I may model one up and 3D print some in ABS. Then it could be shaped around the tool body.
I got intrigued, bought the drums and the HF surface conditioning/burnishing tool. HF had both reincarnations of exactly the same tool: the older (orange) one on closeout for $50, but conveniently absent in all nearby stores. So I got Hercules (blue) which was about $100-$120 on sale.

The maximum amount you can move the guard radially away from the spindle is slightly less than 0.100" before it hits the tool body.

Here is what I had to do to allow the most common 4.7" dia drums to fit in. I elongated the three holes about .110" away from the tool body, but then I had to grind the guard outside where it meets the protruded midportion of the tool body. I had to remove about 1/3"-1/2" of the metal thickness in this area and this allowed to fit the drums acceptably. The drum still touches the guard in the area close to the tool body, but very slightly, so it should correct itself within a minute of working. The interference is so miniscule that it doesn't prevent the drum from rotation using a light finger touch.

If I wanted to have a usual for those tools clearance in this area, I'd need to cut off a window there, so the tool body won't be protected by the guard. Which is not a big deal of course. The clearance between the guard and the drum in all other areas is more than generous.

Another trick is to slightly rotate the guard clockwise a few degrees (you can see it on the fifth photo), and this allows for even better clearance. The new drums are not really round, so only the protruded areas touch the guard slightly. The rest of the drum does not (see two last photos).

To say that this idiotic design flaw (mainly, insufficient distance between the spindle and tool body) made me mad would be an understatement. But, at least, now the tool is serviceable.

Here are a few photos I took. In case you do a similar setup for spindle hole elongation, make sure you support the thin portion around it. I stupidly omitted this and had to do some minor welding repair. :( If I do it again, I'd, probably, weld a strip of metal to widen the guard on the top where the spindle hole comes too close to the edge when you elongate it. I'd do it before machining (or even filing or grinding with sandpaper wheel if I elongate the hole manually).

I applied blue thread locker to those two #8-32 screws that hold the guard. They had some of it initially, but I kept removing them so many times that none of it left.
 

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stillnostrebor

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I got intrigued, bought the drums and the HF surface conditioning/burnishing tool. HF had both reincarnations of exactly the same tool: the older (orange) one on closeout for $50, but conveniently absent in all nearby stores. So I got Hercules (blue) which was about $100-$120 on sale.

The maximum amount you can move the guard radially away from the spindle is slightly less than 0.100" before it hits the tool body.

Here is what I had to do to allow the most common 4.7" dia drums to fit in.
You beat me to the punch!

I was looking at just cutting the guard in two at the break point between curve face and bolted face, centering the wheel on the spindle with the bolted face attached, spacing the curved face off of a wheel and tacking it back together, then filling in the new gap. Once I have all of that done then I can shape it around the tool body. This is quite a bit more work than your solution though...

Thanks for putting in the work. This solution is really simple.
 

Chuckster in NJ

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You're right. I should've started a new post. Sorry!
Maybe the moderator can do it at this pont.
Don’t delete or move this helpful post……… I have one of these surface conditioners that needs parts that may or may not fit so I appreciate the helpful modification posts.
Ignore the "nay sayers" and post anything "HELPFUL" that is associated with a deal like this HF surface conditioner.
"IF" someone doesn’t like getting an alert on every post that gets posted here on this thread, they have the option of turning off the alert. "That's life" on a public forum…….. Just my $.02. :beer:

BTW! The moderators and Ryan have bigger things to worry about than these "petty issues" and they are doing a great job. (y);)(y)
 

SlotlessMan

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Nobody should post helpful information about the deals mentioned here that would be hugely beneficial to those who bought the item. This is a deal thread. Get off my lawn!

Couldn't agree more. I too find it very hard to buy things without getting opinions from people I don't know first.

If Amazon only had a 30-day easy return policy where I could just drop something off that I didn't like without as much as a shipping label. It would even be better if they could credit my account before I make it from UPS out to my car. :rolleyes:
 

four.cycle

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@Temaweaver - no I have not, but I did watch part of an advertisement earlier today for a similar-looking device that inflated tires, recharged four cell phones at once, and also could be used as a flashlight. Didn't watch the whole ad - my fingers are on auto-pilot on that "skip" button.
 

wandrur

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Y'know, a tool modification thread sounds like a really good idea, this being a garage journal forum and all.

What a great way to centralize and exchange ideas...

Just sayin'. Keep some lanes in the road and keep our attention focused on the particular need at hand rather than crossing streams and getting the point lost in the noise.
 

ching0n

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You're right. I should've started a new post. Sorry!
Maybe the moderator can do it at this pont.
I think deals is deals and if you can show us how you make your deal work for others it's a deal imo. I honestly don't get the "don't post a better or comparable deal" in this deals thread.
 

MichaelP

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RE:
"Y'know, a tool modification thread sounds like a really good idea, this being a garage journal forum and all.
What a great way to centralize and exchange ideas..."


Such single thread would be huge and hard to search. I think separate threads for modifications of a particular tool would work better. Or a separate "Tools Modification" subforum for those threads.
 
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ching0n

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I wish this thread was limited to mostly deals. There are lots of places to have extended discussions, and many deserve their own thread, like the surface conditioner got. In a month or two, it will be very hard to search for drum or non-compression tester stuff on this thread, because it’s so long.

I hope you don't take this the wrong way but there's a quick fix for you and others:
edit: oops, meant to type compression tester on there

1742312186144.png
 

ching0n

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back on topic, I came across this one w/the larger guard to take bigger wheels and a 1400w motor compared to Hf's 1000W. I don't know if the drum being offset like that would make ergonomics weird but I can see it coming in handy in some instances & obstructive in others such as against a wall or in a narrow place. Looks like a glorified grinder w/a rotated trigger handle:

1742313249521.png

More watts:
1742314298590.png
less watts + dust port:
1742314355011.png

w/extra drums:
1742314500320.png
 
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