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AMP draw from a MRCOOL DIY Mini Split

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Ralphxj

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How many amps do these pull when running. Looking at probably an 18k or 24k in the future, but looking at shop power upgrade for now and want to make sure I have room to grow. Can someone check how many amps the 18k and 24k pull when running the AC?? Not concerned with the heat side as I won't use that (have a wood boiler).

I'm upgrading the shop and want to make sure I have enough power so I'm putting together a list of what I have and what I might add in the future to see how much power I actually need.
 
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Bert_

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coyotehunter said:
24k is approximately 25 amps for 220 and 18k is approximately 20 for 220 as well.
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That sounds pretty high. I have a 15 year old 18k btu window a/c that pulls 9 or 10 amps on 240V. I would think a mini would be more efficient.
 
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mike93lx

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coyotehunter said:
24k is approximately 25 amps for 220 and 18k is approximately 20 for 220 as well.
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No way, not for cooling. My 240v (220v doesn't exist in the US) 24k freidrich pulls around 7 or 8 running. Maybe that is the minimum circuit they spec, but not what is pulls
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Ralphxj said:
I'm measuring actual draw on my current line with a clamp meter. I know what I'm currently using and how much more I would like to use and sizing based on my needs.
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Thats not the proper way to do a load calc.

is this a one man shop?

What is the size of the current feeder?

What are you running?
 
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Ralphxj

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wyliesdiesels said:
Thats not the proper way to do a load calc.

is this a one man shop?

What is the size of the current feeder?

What are you running?
Click to expand...

1 man shop with a cnc plasma table. Feed from a 60amp breaker from my main panel.

I'm running led lights, stereo, computer, monitor, cnc plasma table, hypertherm 45 plasma, 7.5hp compressor and a Kaeser air dryer. While all that is running I would like to use a grinder or welder (ESAB 215emp). Also looking at possibly adding AC in the future. Trying to see if 90amp will work or if I should go 125amps.
 
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Showkey

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Guess some will not give on the 110-120v.......220-240V......as it’s just general speak or reference voltage. To the point many devices publish 115v 230v as splitting the difference.
 
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rok_hunter

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My 36k says it runs on about 15a but needs a 40a breaker. Photo below from my manual on their various size machines.dc86d1ea760a3c96717d92f8f4e89a14.jpg

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sberry

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I dont know the particulars but most I see on a 20 about 11 to 13. I was in a trailer part a while back and the contractor must have done a bunch of them but they had a standard,,,,, must have had a huge roll of SO and 30 breakers they put on every unit.
Seems they drew about 14 or so but they were old school hatchet on jobs.
 
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sberry

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BTW,,, I am fine with telling people it isnt 110 and 220 cause it isnt. My neighbor is a smart guy and I got to tell him this,,, said,,, if you are trying to sound like you know wtf it makes it obvious.
 
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rok_hunter

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You're getting a million answers here and almost all of them conflict. I posted the no-**** amperage requirements out of my MrCool mini-split manual, straight from the manufacturer, with what they recommend for the different size units.

Your next best answer is going to be going straight to the mrcool website (www.mrcool.com), clicking "support", and shooting them an email or making a phone call. They're going to tell you what they recommend for their unit and if it conflicts with the expert guidance you've gotten here, and you decide to go with that expert guidance anyway, and your unit keeps tripping breakers/doesn't perform/God Forbid overheats the wiring and burns your place down, well...reach back to the experts here and have them write you a check for your damages.

I honestly don't mean to sound like a d*ck but if you can't get a straight answer from the forum, take the question to the manufacturer and go with their response. It's the only certain way that you won't go wrong AND have a legal case with merit if something does happen.

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Terry D

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Alright, this is right off my brand new mrcool advantage 18k minisplit. Looks like 10.5 amps plus what the indoor fan unit draws, which I haven't unboxed yet. I will post it as soon as I do. Just figure 15 amps for your load calculations and you will be alright



20200722_102158.jpg

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Bert_

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rok_hunter said:
You're getting a million answers here and almost all of them conflict. I posted the no-**** amperage requirements out of my MrCool mini-split manual, straight from the manufacturer, with what they recommend for the different size units.

Your next best answer is going to be going straight to the mrcool website (www.mrcool.com), clicking "support", and shooting them an email or making a phone call. They're going to tell you what they recommend for their unit and if it conflicts with the expert guidance you've gotten here, and you decide to go with that expert guidance anyway, and your unit keeps tripping breakers/doesn't perform/God Forbid overheats the wiring and burns your place down, well...reach back to the experts here and have them write you a check for your damages.

I honestly don't mean to sound like a d*ck but if you can't get a straight answer from the forum, take the question to the manufacturer and go with their response. It's the only certain way that you won't go wrong AND have a legal case with merit if something does happen.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Your not getting it. We are not talking about the circuit to the air conditioner.

We are talking about the actual load. That information is needed to do a load calculation and decide how big of a feed the garage needs.
 
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Ralphxj

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Bert_ said:
Your not getting it. We are not talking about the circuit to the air conditioner.

We are talking about the actual load. That information is needed to do a load calculation and decide how big of a feed the garage needs.
Click to expand...

At this point, if its 10amp or 30amp, I'm too close to 90amps being used so I'll probably upgrade to be able to run 125amp to the shop. Figured asking for an actual measurement was something someone would have already had. Oh well.
 
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Terry D

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Ralphxj said:
At this point, if its 10amp or 30amp, I'm too close to 90amps being used so I'll probably upgrade to be able to run 125amp to the shop. Figured asking for an actual measurement was something someone would have already had. Oh well.
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I posted the information right off the unit in post #25. How much more info do you need. It gives the amp draw under full load. These inverter units run at variable speeds, which will give you different amp draws at different loads. They do not run at a constant amperage. Size you service with the full load off the plate. Why would you want to run your service close up to its full capacity anyway. You always leave room for expansion. Run the 125 amps and be done with it. The larger wire now is way cheaper than changing it later

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Ralphxj

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Terry D said:
I posted the information right off the unit in post #25. How much more info do you need. It gives the amp draw under full load. These inverter units run at variable speeds, which will give you different amp draws at different loads. They do not run at a constant amperage. Size you service with the full load off the plate. Why would you want to run your service close up to its full capacity anyway. You always leave room for expansion. Run the 125 amps and be done with it. The larger wire now is way cheaper than changing it later

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Click to expand...

That's why I'm going with the 125. Not sure if I would ever run the plasma table and the AC at the same time (too much dust in the filter) but just in case, I want to be covered. Thanks for the info off the label.
 
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jeepxj

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Ralphxj said:
That's why I'm going with the 125. Not sure if I would ever run the plasma table and the AC at the same time (too much dust in the filter) but just in case, I want to be covered. Thanks for the info off the label.
Click to expand...

alright if you put in a hypertherm 65 you're looking at 9kw draw. on a 240 supply that is 38a at max cut thickness.

2-2-2-4 MHF will give ya 90a. thats plenty to run the mr cool, the plasma at full tilt and a decent amount of LED shop lights, a radio, etc.


the cost difference from 90a to 125 is probably double in wire cost? 2224 MHF is dirt cheap. if you're gona do 125 than size it for the full 200a. might as well
 
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Ralphxj

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jeepxj said:
alright if you put in a hypertherm 65 you're looking at 9kw draw. on a 240 supply that is 38a at max cut thickness.

2-2-2-4 MHF will give ya 90a. thats plenty to run the mr cool, the plasma at full tilt and a decent amount of LED shop lights, a radio, etc.


the cost difference from 90a to 125 is probably double in wire cost? 2224 MHF is dirt cheap. if you're gona do 125 than size it for the full 200a. might as well
Click to expand...

You forgot about the 7.5hp compressor and welder to go along with the plasma, lights, computer, table control box and the MrCool.
 
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jeepxj

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Ralphxj said:
You forgot about the 7.5hp compressor and welder to go along with the plasma, lights, computer, table control box and the MrCool.
Click to expand...

I did indeed. sounds like he should just go 200a and call it a day.
 
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