Anchor in garage floor

[Stephen00GT]

There is a slight uphill slope leading into my garage. It is enough of a slope that i can't push a car into the garage. What would be the best way to put an anchor in the floor that i could attach an electric winch to in order to pull the car?

 

[tcsalvage]

have a garage i deal with that had the same problem. he installed a plate on his wall with an end of a trailer hitch on it. just slides the hitch in when he needs to bring a dead one in, then pulls the pin and puts the winch out of his way.

 

[ishiboo]

Red Head Trubolt anchors.

 

[RAYJAY]

you can also use a anchor pot like the body shops use as for tap con screws ...not me seen to many shear off
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/champ-floor-anchor-pot-1600-p-11538.aspx

 

[tcsalvage]

you can also use a anchor pot like the body shops use as for tap con screws ...not me seen to many shear off
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/champ-floor-anchor-pot-1600-p-11538.aspx

only problem is you will have to core drill the floor and the last ones that were installed at a customers garage cost him a hundred a hole.

 

[RAYJAY]

only problem is you will have to core drill the floor and the last ones that were installed at a customers garage cost him a hundred a hole.

just rent the drill and do them yourself

 

[Wastedwagesracing]

What holds them in the floor? Just wondering because if you were doing a new floor you could just set then at that time. But to me they look like you could pull them out.

 

[Raze]

I bought and installed the anchor RAYJAY pointed out from Autobody Toolmart, yes the floor needs to be cored, yes you need a way to install it once it's cored, I used 2 steel plates and a 3 ton jack which incidentally is almost exactly the method used by the tool you can rent to install it, here are the pictures of the process:

Coring drill with anchor pot (black cylinder):

Installed with cover in place (chipped the paint a bit but cleaned it up after):

Opened with my link extender attached (the pot is rated to 6000 lbs):

I have equal strength or greater chain, come along, and straps:

Out the driveway:

Yes it costs money to do, but quite frankly the cost of medical bills from injuring yourself being stupid or the cost of having a flat bed move a car in and out your garage every time you need it means this thing pays for itself in about 2 moves, nuff said.

 

[Wastedwagesracing]

Still not sure what hold them in. Or are they for side loading only. I was thinking they would be nice to chain stuff down as in a straight pull.

 

[danski0224]

There is a slight uphill slope leading into my garage. It is enough of a slope that i can't push a car into the garage. What would be the best way to put an anchor in the floor that i could attach an electric winch to in order to pull the car?

Make or buy a steel plate with an attachment point for the winch. I would use 4 attachment points to the concrete, at least 8" apart. A carburetor lifting plate could be one solution or an example.

I would use what are called drop in anchors for the concrete. You can buy them at Home Depot or get nice ones from HILTI with a shoulder on them. Size the anchor accordingly (diameter and depth, shear and tension).

I would add a structural epoxy adhesive to the drop-in hole, and use the proper tool to set the anchor. A plain old rotary hammer with the proper size drill bit is all you need.

When you do not need the winch anchor point, unscrew it and put bolts in the drop-ins to keep crud out.

I would NOT use Tapcons for something like this. They are not designed for repeated installation and removal. They can easily pull out if the hole is off (wobble while drilling, off axis drilling). They are more appropriate for shear vs tension loads.

 

[Raze]

Still not sure what hold them in. Or are they for side loading only. I was thinking they would be nice to chain stuff down as in a straight pull.

It's held in with pressure, the anchor pot is a steel sleeve that sits in the hole but has vertical slices out of the bottom, inside there is a semi-cylindrical plug (trapezoidal from a side profile) that sits below the steel sleeve. You then pull the plug up via a chain into the sleeve which expands it outward against the concrete. These are frame straighteners and can be used in non-vertical loads (all dependent on your concrete). Once the plug has been pulled up into place it's done. You can uninstall by pounding the plug down out of the sleeve and then pulling up without holding the sleeve in place, thus removing the entire assembly. It works great. Here's an exploded diagram:



Here's the instruction page to give you specifics:
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/anchorinst1.html

This is essentially a 'huge' drop in anchor as mentioned above, much larger than what you're going to find at Home Depot.

 

[Wastedwagesracing]

Raze, Thank you.

 

[danski0224]

It's held in with pressure, the anchor pot is a steel sleeve that sits in the hole but has vertical slices out of the bottom, inside there is a semi-cylindrical plug (trapezoidal from a side profile) that sits below the steel sleeve. You then pull the plug up via a chain into the sleeve which expands it outward against the concrete. These are frame straighteners and can be used in non-vertical loads (all dependent on your concrete). Once the plug has been pulled up into place it's done. You can uninstall by pounding the plug down out of the sleeve and then pulling up without holding the sleeve in place, thus removing the entire assembly. It works great. Here's an exploded diagram:

Here's the instruction page to give you specifics:
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/anchorinst1.html

This is essentially a 'huge' drop in anchor as mentioned above, much larger than what you're going to find at Home Depot.

I was surprised that these are as inexpensive as they are... but the tool rental to install it can make up for that.

 

[Raze]

danski,

I agree, it wasn't as cheap as I thought, the concrete coring was where I spent the real $. The upshot was with a couple of press plates and a 3 ton jack with some chain I was able to install the pot myself without further tool rental.

I placed the press plates over the steel sleeve edges, placed the jack on top of the plates, ran the chain up to a loop of chain over the jack (mine has huge teeth in the cup which prevented the chain from sliding off). I then just jacked the plug up into the sleeve, the jack and plates formed the base to prevent the sleeve from sliding out of the hole. Voila 3 ton anchor point in my garage...

 

[tcsalvage]

i know about anchor pots i have 25 in my floor spaced at 4 feet each way, but stephen wanted to mount a winch to drag vehicles in and alot of winches have 2x2 bars attached to mount on hitches. IF his has such a mount it would be easier to mount to a plate with a reciever end on it than chaining to a pot in the floor. pots are ALOT cheaper to install before the floor is poured and come with lower lock plates that are larger for new floors. saying that; ronnie had two of his pots pull up about a quarter inch on a frame pull and non of mine have ever moved even jacking vertical against them. horizontal loads i would be worried about the strength of the concrete if you were to load them with something like a 10 ton dozer. just my two cents

 

[XJSuperman]

Reeallly old thread, I know, but I am bringing it back to revive the topic while I had the sudden realization I should add a couple anchor points to my concrete project.
Same concept: garage floor, want them to be flush, and able to winch a vehicle inside. Do I make them, or buy them, and are there better or alternative options to the aforementioned Champ models seen in the thread?

 

[545_days]

My son has a steep driveway, and placed four Hilti female threaded anchors into his floor so that he could bolt a Harbor Freight winch on a frame tdown to pull project cars into his garage. It worked well enough that they used it to help the forklift moving his Bridgeport get over the 2" bump into the garage as well.
https://www.hilti.com/c/CLS_FASTENE...7135/r67855?activeTab=preconfigured-kits-tabs

A suitable set screw keeps the holes clean when not in use.

 

[Crabman]

Depending on how steep (or how wedded you are to a winch for ease of pulling) you can use something like this:

Amazon.com

with a come along.

 

[XJSuperman]

My son has a steep driveway, and placed four Hilti female threaded anchors into his floor so that he could bolt a Harbor Freight winch on a frame tdown to pull project cars into his garage. It worked well enough that they used it to help the forklift moving his Bridgeport get over the 2" bump into the garage as well.
https://www.hilti.com/c/CLS_FASTENE...7135/r67855?activeTab=preconfigured-kits-tabs

A suitable set screw keeps the holes clean when not in use.

I will be keeping the winch on another truck and using a ****** block or using a 110v hanging winch, but its really good to know those threaded anchor points can handle that kind of load. Thanks.

Depending on how steep (or how wedded you are to a winch for ease of pulling) you can use something like this:

Amazon.com

with a come along.

In my particular case, I'll be tripping over it with my layout as it isn't flush in the floor. I have trucks and winches, so yes, I am wedded to them over a come-along. Thank you for the suggestion, I hadn't seen that specific piece.


I will admit I have a pair of Champ anchor pots on the way as I can always return them if I don't like the feel upon arrival. An afternoon of research taught me that while there were plenty of negative reviews/opinions of this chain-pot type of anchor, there were also no good replacement options being offered that meet my personal requirements. Fabricating custom anchors would be an option if I had a longer timeline to work with. There were some great ideas in other shop threads, including larger anchor pots, receiver hitch style tubes in the floor, I-beams sunk in the floor, and recessed covered fabricated boxes housing d-rings. I'd absolutely use these in a new construction build, but alas they don't fit the current situation.

 

[minytrker]

I have a D ring in front of each bay and on my dyno lift. I use an electric winch with a shackle to winch anything in.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Anchor pot is best.

I did a cheap immigration by

• Making a hole in the floor
• 1/2" x 6" bolt with fender washer
• 1/2" coupling nut
• 1/2" forged lifting eye bolt

Do not screw the lifting bolt all the way in. Tape the threads. Pour concrete setting compound in the hole. Lrss bolt and eye bolt in just until the top of the coupling nut is level with the floor. The eye bolt is removable but don't let dirt vet in the coupling nut.

 

[545_days]

I didn't know how much strength the Hilti fasteners my son used actually have. I just know they worked for him.

FWIW, his project car is small. It's a Fiat X1/9.

 

[HoosierMark]

I put square tubing in my floor to allow for insertion of trailer hitch pieces. I can hook a winch up, insert a post to mount a vice or grinder also. I put one about six foot off front of each bay. I also ran two inch electrical pipe from wall to where I anticipated needing electric or air hose. (Think workbench) I just placed it at floor level and taped over with duct tape. It has worked out great for my needs