Anchoring a metal garage

[gmtech]

First post here. Lurked for years.
Anyway, I'm getting ready to have a 30x30x12 metal garage (tube frame, carport style) installed. I'm dealing with a sloped lot so I'm having a footing poured and a 8" block foundation built.

My problem is figuring out how to anchor the garage. The tube frame is 2.5" square galvanized tube. I wanted to use header blocks on my top course of block and then pour my slab tying it all together. However, that will put my anchors right where the slab meets the header block, right in the seam.

Other option is to just cap the foundation with 4" solid blocks, pour a floating slab and anchor the building to the cap blocks, but I'm not sure about the anchors in a block even though it's solid?

Anyone have any insight? Other ideas? Seems to be alot of knowledgeable minds around here. Thanks

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[gmtech]

For clarification, this is the style anchor that they use


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[The Cobbler]

those anchors are meant to go into solid concrete.
can you fill the cores of the block with concrete & then drill the filled core and anchor? I assume the anchor bolts can be "randomly placed" or are there specific holes in the frame pre drilled?

 

[gmtech]

Thanks for the reply. That's what I figured on the anchors. Even filling the cores would still put me right on the seam weather it's a header block or not. The wall thickness of a 8" block is 1.25". Half the width of my 2.5" frame.

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[gmtech]

Kind of a better idea if what I'm trying to put into words.

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[doublearon98]

Hmm could you set some J bolts in when you pour. Turn the bottom of the J towards the concrete

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[Toolfool]

Have some hold-down straps made to your tube size :

 

[matt_i]

I would just make a heavy (1/4" thick) flat plate to span thru both sides of the spot and get you over to where there's a thick piece of concrete.

I would drill holes to match your existing tube and use appropriate hex bolts there.

The plate and the bolt heads will need some relief, I would drill or hand-grind there with just the flat plate and the nuts and bolts, until you are satisfied it fits.

If you don't have the material, a shop with an ironworker can probably knock it out in minutes. Shear the plate, layout and punch the holes.

 

[HotRodBoater]

Why not just go a couple of inches bigger with the foundation in each direction? A little bit of overhang will make mowing and trimming so much easier. I wish that my shops slab had a slight overhang. The only down side is, you need to design it so that water can't run back under the wall

 

[readhead]

Some companies will provide a tab with a hole on the base rail to locate the bolt to the inside away from the edge. Do not use wedge anchors close to the edge of the concrete. I have done repairs on buildings that appear to be anchored but the installers drill the hole and drop the wedge anchor in the hole, put a quarter turn on it to make it appear snug and not blow out the concrete and move on. The best way to anchor close to the edge is to use epoxy. Drill an 1/8" oversized hole, install epoxy and install a threaded rod rated for the uplift.