And THAT'S how you remove a broken stud!

[djkeev]

Key point here, drill through the center, it requires a bit of vision for the visible threads easily throw you off when center punching!
I don't normally use these tapered easy outs but the broken part was deeper than my shouldered units would reach down to.

Dave

 

[Murphy4570]

Man, you got lucky on that one. That style of EZ out has a habit of breaking.

 

[djkeev]

Man, you got lucky on that one. That style of EZ out has a habit of breaking.

I know! That's why I usually use the shouldered style.

I first used the left handed drill bit and heat to no avail.

Dave

 

[bad_idea]

F&CK an easy out. The only thing it does for you is snap off in the hole to give you a piece of tooled steel to drill. I prefer to drill the bolt with the drill size needed to tap the bolt, clean the first thread out with a pick or chisel (and time), and then chase the threads with a tap. Works every time. Of course, center drilling the bolt is critical when using this method. I reiterate, F&CK an easy out.

 

[Flathead Red]

How can you ensure you get a center drill? I have broken a couple EZ outs and have made matters worse by not getting a centered drill on them. I tried to use a punch to get it started but the amount of pressure needed to drill into it, pushes the bit out of the spot. Maybe I need better bits.

Red

 

[djkeev]

F&CK an easy out. The only thing it does for you is snap off in the hole to give you a piece of tooled steel to drill. I prefer to drill the bolt with the drill size needed to tap the bolt, clean the first thread out with a pick or chisel (and time), and then chase the threads with a tap. Works every time. Of course, center drilling the bolt is critical when using this method. I reiterate, F&CK an easy out.

I see this step that you have proposed as a first step, as the very last step in the process of broken fastener removal.

First things first, heat up the area with a torch, not so hot as to damage but hot enough to break a rust / corrosion bond.

next is a 1/8" hole drilled into and THROUGH the offending fastener with a LEFT HANDED DRILL BIT. use the lefty for it may just catch and spin it out to you while drilling.

Next is a generous dose of a rust breaking agent into the hole flooding not only the hole you made but the entire cavity under it.

I then bang on the fastener with a punch, trying to jar it loose.

I'll try a shouldered remover into the small hole but gently. It may screw right out, may not....DO NOT BREAK IT OFF!!!!!! more isn't better when it comes to torque applied to hardened steel!

I'll then try a right twist bit, about 3/16" or so, sometimes that will catch and screw it farther down into the hole.

More heat, burn out those oils you put in!

More shock with a drift,

A larger remover

If it hasn't yet moved, prepare to drill and re-tap.

This is all dependent on you having drilled in the center of the bolt and not off to one side catching the threads in the female hole. You catch those threads with a remover tool, it will never ever turn!!

Finding the center of a stud is more difficult than it may appear for the exposed fastener is egg shaped with the true center being actually visually off center!
Look at the photo of my removed thread, I'm old, I was taught by my machinest father on proper drilling and removal techniques, look closely, I missed the center!
I was close enough to have it work but if I had to re-tap that hole I'd end up with a weak fastening point after the new threads were cut!

Dave

 

[elevator joe]

Has any one heard of a product called (kroil)? It's supposed to be a type of penatrating fluid. I know a couple of machinists that swear by it when removing busted bolts etc. (never seen or used it) may be worth a try.

 

[pete379]

"E-Z out" anything but !

pete

 

[Flathead Red]

I know! That's why I usually use the shouldered style

Dave

do you have a picture of this type?

 

[kyrbz]

Has any one heard of a product called (kroil)? It's supposed to be a type of penatrating fluid. I know a couple of machinists that swear by it when removing busted bolts etc. (never seen or used it) may be worth a try.

I use Kroil all the time and think it is an excellent product.

Kroils website:
http://www.kanolabs.com/

 

[PaulsGarage]

Well done!

I work on vintage cars and have a little cubby in my my toolbox I call the "victory box" at least 2 dozen little bits of extracted broken bolts/studs with holes drilled dead-center. When I get enough I'm going to make a "victory necklace" and wear it under the coveralls as a warning and talisman against rusty nuts!

 

[bad_idea]

How can you ensure you get a center drill?
Red

Center punch stud. Drill center with a 1/8" cobalt bit. Use anchorlube as a lubricant for drilling. Will keep the bit cool, help cut faster, and keep bits sharp.

 

[djkeev]

do you have a picture of this type?

Here are two, they come in multiple sizes......

Dave

 

[djkeev]

How can you ensure you get a center drill?.......

If you have a stub protruding above the unit, use a file to flatten the top of the stub, smooth and level.

Now envision the real center and center punch firmly and deeply. If it is a bigger stud, start with a small bit drilling parallel into the faster, not at an angle. Once you've got a small hole start increasing drill diameters as needed to extract the unit.

As mentioned, oil helps the bit cut better by lubricating and cooling the cutting edge.

Here is a photo that poorly illustrates how true center appears off center.

This one is with full circular threads....

This on is with an angle ground off as a broken stud often appears in real life situations. See how that black dot in true center has visually moved off center?

Dave

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you have a stub protruding above the unit, use a file to flatten the top of the stub, smooth and level.

Dave

I don't believe I have ever seen somebody flatten the top of the threads, I have never thought of it myself. That would make drilling so much easer.

 

[Flathead Red]

Here are two, they come in multiple sizes......

Dave

What is the advantage of these versus the standard ex outs?

 

[darkzero]

If you have a stub protruding above the unit, use a file to flatten the top of the stub, smooth and level.

I don't believe I have ever seen somebody flatten the top of the threads, I have never thought of it myself. That would make drilling so much easer.

True, but what do you do if the broken bolt/stud is recessed inside a hole? Most of the time this is the case for me when I am removing a broken bolt. I supposed I could used a Dremel to help get it flat but I usually just use a center punch.

That's why I usually use the shouldered style.

What is the advantage of these versus the standard ex outs?

I'd like to know too. I have a set like those that I got from Matco over 10 years ago that I've never used once, still brand new. I've always just used the LH drill & extractor set that I also got from Matco. I thought about selling that other set but ifthey have a better advantage I'll keep them.

 

[Flathead Red]

Also is there anywhere to get these different extractor sets besides the tool trucks?

Red

 

[djkeev]

Why the shoulder on the remover? It acts as a depth gauge preventing you from expanding the hollow fastener in the hole it's already stuck in. The shoulder when seated also helps with the grip. The long tapered fastener remover will dig into the stuck bolt deeper and deeper and deeper following the helical coils around the unit, this goes on until it gets so deep and so tight that the EZ Out shatters! NOW you've got some very real troubles!!!
The shoulder will stop the "digging in" action and will allow the helical coils to grip as the two units effectively become one connected whole, now...... simply turn it out like a bolt.

If you've got a broken fastener deeper inside the hole, you deal with it. I would make a flat spot using a drift and beat the ragged top somewhat flat. If You try to drill in a crooked surface, most often the drill bit will walk. If you can't flatten the unit, get it center punched and make your primary hole with a very small bit, 1/16" Or so. Once this initial hole is through, start stepping up drill bit sizes as needed. Resist the urge to go big quickly for the broken surface can still walk that bigger bit!

Look at my original photo, this was recessed in the hole.

Where to purchase? On line, any local tool jobber, well stocked auto arts store, I think even Sears. Here is a link on Amazon.....

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CCXVZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBJG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Dave

 

[Griff93]

When dealing with a broken bolt/stud that is down in the hole you can make a drill bushing easily on a lathe if the broken bolt is in the center of the hole. This both centers the drill bit and keeps it straight. For getting the broken bolt flat, you can make another drill bushing with a hole sized for an endmill. If you don't spin it to fast you can use a cordless drill to turn the end mill. This gets you a nice flat surface to start on.

 

[darkzero]

When dealing with a broken bolt/stud that is down in the hole you can make a drill bushing easily on a lathe if the broken bolt is in the center of the hole. This both centers the drill bit and keeps it straight. For getting the broken bolt flat, you can make another drill bushing with a hole sized for an endmill. If you don't spin it to fast you can use a cordless drill to turn the end mill. This gets you a nice flat surface to start on.

Good ideas.

 

[djkeev]

When dealing with a broken bolt/stud that is down in the hole you can make a drill bushing easily on a lathe if the broken bolt is in the center of the hole. This both centers the drill bit and keeps it straight. For getting the broken bolt flat, you can make another drill bushing with a hole sized for an endmill. If you don't spin it to fast you can use a cordless drill to turn the end mill. This gets you a nice flat surface to start on.

Excellent ideas! This is something that could actually be marketed as a set! SAE and Metric, the most popular thread pitches, include drill bits and end mill! I'd buy one!

Dave

 

[Griff93]

The problem with a kit is for every instance you need a different outside diameter for the bushing to stay centered in the hole. If the bushings are to be repeatedly used then they would definitely have to be hardened. It does work very well though. I've used this method to get broken subframe bolts out of a car's chassis. This is normally an awful job and one you can't screw up on.

 

[tonycastec]

Has any one heard of a product called (kroil)? It's supposed to be a type of penatrating fluid. I know a couple of machinists that swear by it when removing busted bolts etc. (never seen or used it) may be worth a try.

I find KROIL(Kano Labs) works better than any similar product including PB Blaster.

 

[Worsedog]

I have a set of straight flute extractors that came with left hand bits and centering bushings. They have been reasonbly successful so long as the bolt has not become one with the hole.

 

[Shadowdog500]

Bravo with your easy out success story!

I never had much luck with easy outs either. I have several other types of extractors from playing with salt water boats. From this forum I learned about using a little heat followed by a touch with a candle. This trick usually loosens it up enough to work it out with a scribe and a small hammer, or will make it come out easier with a left hand drill.

I swear by Kroil and get it by the gallon, but a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF actually works better. Any penetrant usually needs time to work. IMHO Little heat and a candle has the same results without the wait.

Chris

 

[djkeev]

So, being a lover of tools, especially tools that can get you out of a jam quickly, I spied these the other day. I grabbed them just to have. Tee hee.....I grabbed the Grabits

A combination of a drill bit and a shouldered remover.
Anyone have feedback on these?