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Angle Grinder PPE

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mjac

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Feb 15, 2024
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@mjac have you put a guard on the grinder yet?

Looked at so many guards my eyes are boggled. Having a little trouble. Could not find the OEM, Part #33848 at first, so bought two generic full coverage guards for cutting, one with a lever and one with a bolt. Upgraded the bolt to really tighten it down, the guard won’t rotate, but if you put any lateral pressure on it, it falls right off the spindle. Found a 338848 and it is coming and a metabo clip on guard to close it for cutting. The clip on is not made for the 338848, probably doesn’t have the clip attachments, but it should slip over it and will drill it and put a couple of set screws in it. That is the plan anyway.

mjac
 

Old tool guy

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Thanks for sharing.

I've never thought to or felt the need to attach the handle at the top, despite some of the grinders I use having a hole there.


I would be interested in hearing when you (or anyone) would use the top position.
Depends on how the tool is held. If he rotates it 90* so the blade is vertical, a handle in the top hole is now going to be horizontal and will work well.
 

YesIHaveAHammer

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Depends on how the tool is held. If he rotates it 90* so the blade is vertical, a handle in the top hole is now going to be horizontal and will work well.
Gotcha, didn't realise he was talking about a different orientation to what I was. Vertical is what I was thinking in my original post, and as illustrated in the photos.
 

DAWrench

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Looked at so many guards my eyes are boggled. Having a little trouble. Could not find the OEM, Part #33848 at first, so bought two generic full coverage guards for cutting, one with a lever and one with a bolt. Upgraded the bolt to really tighten it down, the guard won’t rotate, but if you put any lateral pressure on it, it falls right off the spindle. Found a 338848 and it is coming and a metabo clip on guard to close it for cutting. The clip on is not made for the 338848, probably doesn’t have the clip attachments, but it should slip over it and will drill it and put a couple of set screws in it. That is the plan anyway.

mjac
Probably just easier and cheaper to just buy a new grinder that will come with proper handle and guards for cutting and use your old grinder with a flap wheel for cleaning up cuts.
 

tarbellb

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This ☝️

Your current grinder isn't anything special. Buy a new grinder w the proper attachments, likely for not much more then the retro fit
 
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mjac

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This ☝️

Your current grinder isn't anything special. Buy a new grinder w the proper attachments, likely for not much more then the retro fit

Right now, this is how I am thinking. It finally dawned on me and @98ssuck specifically mentioned this, a 4 1/2” angle grinder is not the best way to cut steel. There are things an angle grinder can do, that you can only do with an angle grinder. Use the angle grinder only for those things, get the ppe right and TRY and get better technique. My “Metabo/Hitachi” is good enough for that, but it still needs guards and a handle. But for everything else, going to be on the look out for a worm drive power saw and a metal chop saw and put the best Walter disc in both of them. Put money toward that, not an expensive grinder that is not very good for cutting.

mjac
 

Wamsutta

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Locked thread all about it, have fun

There was never a description of how the injury occurred and nobody ever asked how the injury occurred.

The main thing I was wondering about is whether it was a cut-off wheel and whether the grinder had a guard in place.
 

KnurledNut

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@mjac
I'm not a big fan of Milwaukee in general, but I have their corded metal cutting saw with the cermet blade at work and it is much safer, cleaner, faster, straighter, cooler, etc for jobs that would be a headache or dangerous with a widow maker. It's an expensive tool, but quickly paid for itself cutting plate steel and other industrial fab work in the field.
I have used steel cutting blades on standard circular saws but they spin too fast shortening blade life and throw too much shrapnel. The latest Diablo blade is longer lasting but still not optimal. I do keep an older/slower RPM cordless brushed circular saw fitted with a ferrous cutting blade. Being lightweight, its good for the occasional small quick cut.
 
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mjac

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@mjac
I'm not a big fan of Milwaukee in general, but I have their corded metal cutting saw with the cermet blade at work and it is much safer, cleaner, faster, straighter, cooler, etc for jobs that would be a headache or dangerous with a widow maker. It's an expensive tool, but quickly paid for itself cutting plate steel and other industrial fab work in the field.
I have used steel cutting blades on standard circular saws but they spin too fast shortening blade life and throw too much shrapnel. The latest Diablo blade is longer lasting but still not optimal. I do keep an older/slower RPM cordless brushed circular saw fitted with a ferrous cutting blade. Being lightweight, its good for the occasional small quick cut.

Here's an old pic where I was cutting some bar grating on location:
View attachment 2479106


That is a really heavy duty $400-$500 saw that obviously does a great job if it can cut grate like that. Don’t do that much cutting but want something that can handle some occasional cutting and get away from the angle grinder. The more I think about it, I believe I am going to pick up another Dewalt 7 1/4” power saw and put a Walter Ceramic wheel on it.

mjac
 

rlitman

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Thanks for sharing.

I've never thought to or felt the need to attach the handle at the top, despite some of the grinders I use having a hole there.


I would be interested in hearing when you (or anyone) would use the top position.
I too have never mounted the handle up top, but own several grinders with that hole. Ok, thinking through different grinder use cases here. One place it might help is with drilling. They make grit core drill bits (for stone countertops and such) where a top handle could ease alignment. Any time the cutting edge diameter isn't much larger than the handle's diameter, a top handle should be fine. Maybe a small polishing bob.

As the wheel increases in size and you're working the rim, top handles become a problem. On a smaller scale, that's why you use burrs in die grinders, but use angle die grinders for discs (like Roloc). Put a Roloc in a straight die grinder and it wants to kick itself all around. Same goes for a cutoff wheel. There's a reason we don't typically mount large cutoff wheels in straight grinders.
 
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ipgenie

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You are probably right, will have to look out for a Worm Drive power saw and steel cutting chop saw and just use the angle grinder when absolutely necessary, but when it is used it will be with ppe.

mjac


I've got a few metal cutting saws and also rarely use a grinder to cut metal. I picked up this little guy last year and even though it's small, it's sure handy for cutting long stock and the price is good. PPE still required, but way safer than using a grinder where applicable.

 

ipgenie

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That is a really heavy duty $400-$500 saw that obviously does a great job if it can cut grate like that. Don’t do that much cutting but want something that can handle some occasional cutting and get away from the angle grinder. The more I think about it, I believe I am going to pick up another Dewalt 7 1/4” power saw and put a Walter Ceramic wheel on it.

mjac


I've got the Skill version:


I picked it up 6 years ago ($250 back then) and it's been a good saw for cutting plate. I typically use something smaller/lighter for the little stuff but for a big worm drive saw, I'm happy with it.
A port-a-band is pretty handy for in place cuts if it fits. I have a wall mount that makes my corded one into a decent little vertical band saw, but takes about 30 seconds to switch it to portable again.
Lots of good metal cutting tools available these days.
 

Hohn

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Some of us are curious as to how this happened.

And was the angle grinder one of those on a toggle switch? I try not to use those even though 2 of mine have such a switch. The other 3 must be depressed to run and shut off as soon as you let go.
I have proliferated grinders specifically to have certain kinds of lock on vs lock off vs no lock functionality.

For me, it depends on the attachment. I used lock-off paddles and pull triggers for intermittent use grinders that will be used for things like cutting or slag removal with twisted wire wheel.

My lock-on grinders (side switch) are for things that will be used a long time for heavy usage. Things like rigid grinding wheels, flap discs, wire cup brushes, etc.

In highly transient uses, I've found the extra cost of a braked motor to be worth the money for productivity and safety. Not having to wait for the motor to spin down is surprisingly helpful for both productivity and safety (which are sort of the same thing, since mostly of the dumb risks we take are in the name of avoiding some hassle).

My Makita cordless grinder lives mostly with a heavy wire disc on it for slag removal. The ability to grab, use, and put back down over and over without a cord tangling or waiting for the wheel to spin down is a big big help in the real world. It's the kind of tool I'd consider owning 2 or 3 identical copies of. I just can't justify more of them because the X lock makes wheel changes so fast.
 

mervyn

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Apr 5, 2019
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Missouri
IN BEFORE THE LOCK !
To answer the question I use leather gloves and safety glasses when using my vintage Horrible Fright angle grinder.
 
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mjac

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Feb 15, 2024
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For anyone interested, received this the other day, it is a really good apron for $36, thick and comfortable.

mjac

IMG_0131.png
 

zimman

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Mar 2, 2014
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2,000
Location
Mark Twain National Forest
I've been in the Emergency Room for metal in my eye three times, been on fire many times, cut my grinder electric cord once in half and in 15 racecar chasses only broken one grinding wheel. When you show up, suit up and get after it.
LOL
Zim
You can't imagine the sparks and noise severing the cord of a grinder inside a race car chassis with tube and sheetmetal.
Zgrinder.jpg
 

sqznby

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Oct 26, 2013
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Coastal NC
For anyone interested, received this the other day, it is a really good apron for $36, thick and comfortable.

mjac

IMG_0131.png
I'm probably going to get sh*t for this but I'm just being honest. What the f**k are you going to do with that suit?
What are you doing to justify wearing that? What kind of work are you doing? Seriously?
You went from black and decker cut off wheels to harbor freight cut off wheels when it was operator error. I mean you'll buy a Metabo grinder but won't buy quality consumables. Why?
Now a metal mesh request too haha.
 

YesIHaveAHammer

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Jun 1, 2025
Messages
774
What the f**k are you going to do with that suit?
What are you doing to justify wearing that? What kind of work are you doing? Seriously?
It says for cut and puncture protection, and mentions knives.

I'd guess for butchering and meat industry.

If you're wielding big sharp knives with force all day, under production line pressure, and there's a lot of staff, seems it's only a matter of time before someone runs out of luck.
 
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