Angle iron corner joints

[sberry]

Sberry you have a shop that looks like a lot of work can be done quickly and well. I agree with you about chop saws my shop had a 10 hp chop saw with a 24" wheel it cut pretty good but what a mess.

Yes, my place is not extremely technical but very fluid and a lot of convenience features built in. I keep it so I am not jammed for space even when things get busy or on multiple projects.
I have used large chop saws, very nice in many cases as are dry cut saws but for repair work I like a common chop saw most of the time. They can do a lot of functions, even cope angles. Mine never (really rare) leaves the 90 degree setup, if I do want a 45 I often cut square and nip the corner with a plasma or cut the whole joint with it. Angle accuracy isn't usually a big deal as it will get blasted full of weld anyway.

 

[Brad54]

Well, if it were me, I'd be using it as a learning experience. Use the workbench project to learn cutting, fitting, joint-making, welding, etc. Better to learn and make mistakes there than on something where proper assembly matters. I know that I know next to jack diddly squat about this stuff so this thread is interesting to me.

I tend to over-build the ever-loving hell out of my shop equipment, because I KNOW it's going to be abused over time. I also love making my own stuff because it teaches me to learn how things go together and builds on my skill set.
That used to be the purpose of apprentice trades--the blacksmith apprentice was ready to go out on his own when he could make his own tools.

My "Small" vise table weighs over 140 pounds... I can carelessly set cylinder heads, differentials and anything else I want on it, and wail away with a hammer on the railroad rail anvil.

I've collected pieces for a fab/welding table: 3x5x1/2-inch plate. The frame is going to be brutally heavy as well, with a C-channel perimeter and big box tubing legs. It'll weigh over 500 pounds.

At some point, the construction DOES have to be sturdy enough just to support its own weight.

You really can't over-build a work bench. And my thinking is that it not only has to support whatever you put on it, but it has has to not move when you beat on it.

-Brad

 

[Brad54]

Steve in Mi, I am very familiar with the Roper Whitney equipment you mentioned IMHO it's junk! You can't hold better than a 1/4" with it on a good day and it"s a PIA to use. Sberry you have a shop that looks like a lot of work can be done quickly and well. I agree with you about chop saws my shop had a 10 hp chop saw with a 24" wheel it cut pretty good but what a mess. Nice to know that so many people are willing to help a fellow JG member.

I've got my chop saw on a stand with wheels... it's an old gas grill base. Not ideal, but it'll work until I get some time to make it better. It sits right in front of the shop bay door, and when I need to use it, it gets wheeled outside onto the driveway where the dust and sparks won't do any harm.

When I'm done, it simply gets pushed four feet back into the shop, leaving the mess outside.

-Brad

 

[kbs2244]

If you do it quicksilvers way you can 45 the corners off the top.
That saves your kidneys when you are walking around the bench.
Just measure back 2 inches and cut the corner off.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Strength is irrelevent at this point, this type of joint doesnt have to be as strong as it can be, only adequate.

I was going to say, "its just a fricking workbench, it isn't the space shuttle.

V the side that will be up against the bottom of the workbench top, and BEND the angle iron, and weld the ensuing **** joint. If you are using angle for the legs, weld it on the outside.

Charles

 

[914forme]

I use a cheap Miter saw with a Metal cutting blade, not the abrasive blades but a toothed blade. I can make angle cuts to about a degree of accuracy. Best of all it is fast, minimal sparking, and well cleanup is a bunch of small chips. I currently have a 7" unit, as it will cut everything I cut. I mostly cut DOM 1-1/2 - 1-3/4" stuff for roll bars and chassis building. To me the precision cut is very important to the fit and fitment of the final product. Less time I have to spend coping in a joint meant the more time I spend on other things, like welding and still meet the deadlines.

 

[bdkruger1]

WOW! Sounds to me like you better consult AWS D1.1, Section 2- Design of Welded Connections, and also do some homework on stress risers.

Just Kidding. It is a workbench, after all.

 

[hbbyhorse]

I've been reading all the posts on this subject, I'm new here and was wondering which is better for the doors on a horse trailer? a mitered cut or the coping joint?

thx

 

[king nero]

why isn't there a horse beaten to death icon?

 

[dr_clyde]

I've been reading all the posts on this subject, I'm new here and was wondering which is better for the doors on a horse trailer? a mitered cut or the coping joint?

thx

Welcome. Pretty much any joint configuration imaginable will be adequate for a horse trailer door. I personally would use a miter because its fast for me to set up on the saw and minimal work.

 

[kazlx]

Some people way overthink this stuff. It's a welded bench. If you can't weld, it probably won't fail and even if it did, it's not because of the joint design. If you can weld even half way decently, the chances are overwhelming that it won't fail unless you try to put a tractor on it or back into it with a truck.

Edit: damn 5 year old threads.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

why isn't there a horse beaten to death icon?

Here you go...It's under the Smileies, under more... 5 year old thread,LOL...

 

[Fender1325]

I did it the "coped" method or whatever its called, when I only had an angle grinder. It will get it done, you just have to measure and cut correctly. Make sure to cut out the rounded edge inside the angle.

I bought a horizontal band saw specifically to be able to miter. I hated my dry cut chop saw. It was loud, felt dangerous, and wasnt accurate. The band saw is just the opposite. Its from HF. Check it out!

 

[bgarrett]

Is there anyone here who really would do it like sberrys last picture? Looks like something a child might think up

 

[sanddan]

You can throw a bench together in a couple of minutes that will last 20 years. Or you can take the project as an opportunity to improve your welding and fabrication skills and go overboard on the design and construction of the bench. It all depends on what you are after. Lately I have been redoing some of my shop made bench's and stands that were done over 20 years ago as my skills are better now and I want my shop to reflect that.

Your call.

 

[michaelf]

Is there anyone here who really would do it like sberrys last picture? Looks like something a child might think up

me, quick, easy, strong, 7018, do not over think the job.

 

[Ign]

Welcome. Pretty much any joint configuration imaginable will be adequate for a horse trailer door. I personally would use a miter because its fast for me to set up on the saw and minimal work.

This. I think 45's look so much cleaner if you're going to see the frame. I recently did a frame for some car dealership signs and for a piece of stained glass. Nice 45's look better and strength is virtually irrelevant in my examples.

Even barnwood picture frames are usually mitered for this reason, no?

That said, I hate angle as its wobbly and twisty, FAR more than you'd think. Even for a workbench top I'd try to use sq tube. Tube is so much more rigid it's unbelievable. But as its been 5 years I'm guessing the OP has settled on a design LOL

 

[hbbyhorse]

why isn't there a horse beaten to death icon?

haha, don't know how to put one on

 

[hbbyhorse]

Welcome. Pretty much any joint configuration imaginable will be adequate for a horse trailer door. I personally would use a miter because its fast for me to set up on the saw and minimal work.

thx for the reply
I ended up using the cope joint, it turned out beautifully and seems to be stronger than the mitered cut

 

[DekeT]

Is there anyone here who really would do it like sberrys last picture? Looks like something a child might think up

truly unnecessary.