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Another 4 post "car stacking" math check...

Nolift911

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I think I have narrowed my lift to a BendPack HD9ST - I will be stacking two cars with 9.7 ft. or 115 inches of ceiling height to work with.

Car 1 = 49 inches (911)
Car 2 = 57 inches (C63)

Ramp height 4.5
Additional clearance 4

So I am at 114.5 - anyone cut heights this close? :scared:

No option to raise the ceiling either...its a townhouse. I plan to raise the garage door up against the ceiling with a rail kit, but if I park the top car backwards that should give me enough garage door opening area over the hood to get the car underneath in.

I checked the "will it fit" sheet for Bendpack and they have a lock position at 50.1, so Car 1 can slide underneath

Any other measurements or calcs that I can do before I pull the trigger?

Is this too close? Anyone with a similar setup?

Gratuitous pic attached...

Thanks
 

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Stuart in MN

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I've done similar things with the four post lift in my garage, where the top car clears the ceiling by fractions of an inch, but you do have to be very careful when operating the lift.

Is that 4" additional clearance number enough to allow you to move the lift above the 50.1" locking point and then drop it back down into place? Remember that the latches are such that you have to go up past a locking point and then let the lift down on top of them.
 
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Nolift911

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Well it says lock spacing is every 4 inches - but not sure how high you need to go to disengage the lock...half that?

I don't know - measurements are tight to say the least
 

supersaiyan93

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Wow, that's pretty close. 1 inch drop on some coilovers on the 911 might get ya there. :)

When you get your lift installed, will you have to change your license plate on the 911?
 

dmeadow

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That's awfully close. Once I looked at a used lift that a guy had for sale. He had an MGB that he stored over another car in a garage with an 8' ceiling. Besides notching a few joists for the windshield(!), he got the lift company to install the ramps upside down, which gave him a few inches additional clearance. The lift company installed the cables and hydraulic ram between the two ramps, since there was no space under them where they normally go.

I thought that was pretty clever, but the ram and cables between the ramps was a deal killer for me. It wouldn't allow you to work under the car very easily.
 

600SL

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You should be fine. But When I first got my Bend Pak the cheep push button micro switch exploded and welded its contacts together leaving the lift going straight up un controlled. Had I not been able to pull the plug I would have had a car through the ceiling. I have since put a disconnect mounted on the post.

John
 

workhurts

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Have you measured the actual height to the ceiling? It's bound to vary across the length of your garage so not sure your ceiling height is at the most conservative setting or what. Your lock position is also slightly variable depending on how much adjustment they have to do to make the lift level.

How often are you going to use the vehicle that is at the top of the lift?

Which way are your joists going? Your joists are probably 12"-14" high. If they're going perpendicular to the car and you have a bit of spacing between them then maybe at the highest point of the car you can take out the drywall and redrywall around the joists to free up some space.

Alternatively, if the joists run parallel to the car then with the help of a structural engineer maybe you can move a single joist or box it out somehow. Create a small tray ceiling so to speak about the same dimensions as the roof of your car.
 
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Nolift911

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This is all good info - technically given my measuring and re-measuring, it will fit, but super tight. I am not sure how high I can get my garage rails and door to the ceiling. Depending on how far back I can get the car it might not be an issue - but the door on that side will need to be raised for sure.

The ceiling is pretty much everywhere is 9.7 inches so that is static.

I think I have ducting in the ceiling for the upstairs room, so not sure ceiling mods are able to be done.

Its the little things that are tough to figure out - like how high do I need to lift to release the locks on that model? When clearance is so critical, those things matter.

In terms of use I will not be stacking that often - the 911 is the weekend car and the 507 is the daily driver. Its more of a storage thing for bad weather or travel etc. so I can get another car in the garage etc. Have to make do with what you have :confused:
 
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Nolift911

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Wow, that's pretty close. 1 inch drop on some coilovers on the 911 might get ya there. :)

When you get your lift installed, will you have to change your license plate on the 911?

Ha - yeah, but I am already pretty low with a ride height of 24 inches...I will think on the plate :)
 

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workhurts

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Unless your garage floor is flat (which it shouldn't be), how do you get the same measurement? Your ceiling sure as heck is flat ... your floor should have a slope. Just call BendPak (or whoever the manufacturer is) and ask what the release points are.
 
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Nolift911

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Unless your garage floor is flat (which it shouldn't be), how do you get the same measurement? Your ceiling sure as heck is flat ... your floor should have a slope. Just call BendPak (or whoever the manufacturer is) and ask what the release points are.

I hear what you are saying - I use the garage for corner balancing my 911 with scales, so I had the floor leveled. There is a 1/4 inch variance from the back of the garage to the front - spread across the length of a lift you are talking tenth's of an inch. I don't think that is going to be a show stopper as much as lift release points.

I have an email into Jeff from BendPack on just that...
 

workhurts

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Cool. Hope it goes well. Keep us posted. Where there's a will there's a way. I'm sure you'll figure it out.
 

38Chevy454

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Agree that you need to find out how much additional lifting is required to release the locks. With only 0.5 inch, that may not be enough. The lift supplier should be able to verify the required distance.

As an extreme fix, could you cut out and lower your garage floor some?
 
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Nolift911

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Thanks - maybe we should start a sticky with ceiling heights and car heights and lock lift engage points - to answer the question of "will it fit?"

I will keep updating this thread for those interested...
 
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Nolift911

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Agree that you need to find out how much additional lifting is required to release the locks. With only 0.5 inch, that may not be enough. The lift supplier should be able to verify the required distance.

As an extreme fix, could you cut out and lower your garage floor some?

Yeah I think that would be on the extreme side of things - and I am not staying here forever (once my kids are out of school in 10 years I will build that dream garage) so for resale that might be a show stopper with a "sunken garage" feature :bounce:
 

domer911

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The "release point" discussed above seems to vary from one use to another. I use an HD9ST and the lift does not always raise uniformly across all four posts. Instead there's usually a slight variance from one to the next. Since there's an airlock on each post, your "release point" is the point where the last of the four locks releases. Even still, I don't think you are ever talking more than 1.5 inches--at least that's my experience.

Caution with the HD9ST--your posts will rest inside the garage door opening, so you just have to be extra careful to navigate between the lift posts when you are parking under the loaded lift.

I love my lift, btw. I had to buy extra set of wheels and tires, and an after-market exhaust for my car, just so I could justify the investment in the lift and rolling jack (highly recommend the RJ-45 as an accessory!!!) :D
 
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domer911

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one last thing. BP sells aluminum ramps as an option and up-charge. I think they are well worth the investment. But buy them up front, because they cost about 40% more after-the-fact. They weigh half or less what the stock steel ramps weigh. The steel ones are ridiculously heavy and I would only recommend them to someone who never intended to remove them from the rails.
 
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Nolift911

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The "release point" discussed above seems to vary from one use to another. I use an HD9ST and the lift does not always raise uniformly across all four posts. Instead there's usually a slight variance from one to the next. Since there's an airlock on each post, your "release point" is the point where the last of the four locks releases. Even still, I don't think you are ever talking more than 1.5 inches--at least that's my experience.

Caution with the HD9ST--your posts will rest inside the garage door opening, so you just have to be extra careful to navigate between the lift posts when you are parking under the loaded lift.

I love my lift, btw. I had to buy extra set of wheels and tires, and an after-market exhaust for my car, just so I could justify the investment in the lift and rolling jack (highly recommend the RJ-45 as an accessory!!!) :D

Thanks for the info - I will factor that in to the equation. How do you like the RJ-45? Do you have one or two? I was thinking of getting two for doing alignments and 4 wheel cornerbalancing, for ease of on and off the scales while up in the air on the lift. What do they hook up to? Can use both at the same time?

Have any pics?
 
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Nolift911

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one last thing. BP sells aluminum ramps as an option and up-charge. I think they are well worth the investment. But buy them up front, because they cost about 40% more after-the-fact. They weigh half or less what the stock steel ramps weigh. The steel ones are ridiculously heavy and I would only recommend them to someone who never intended to remove them from the rails.

Thanks - that makes sense. Are those ok to use with a very low car like a lowered 911?
 

Hobbit

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Not familiar with Porsche but do they have mini spares. Maybe find 3 extras and slap those on before lifting to shave an inch or two.
 

workhurts

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Thanks - that makes sense. Are those ok to use with a very low car like a lowered 911?

Or you just never actually attach the metal ones. That's what I was planning on doing. Put em down, roll car on them .. store them on the runways.

On the HD-9, that's why I went with the HD-7W .. wanted the posts outside the door. They also make a wider HD-9. 110" like the 7W.
 
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Nolift911

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Or you just never actually attach the metal ones. That's what I was planning on doing. Put em down, roll car on them .. store them on the runways.

On the HD-9, that's why I went with the HD-7W .. wanted the posts outside the door. They also make a wider HD-9. 110" like the 7W.

Anyone know why the HD-7P has a column height of 100' and the HD-9ST has a column height of 88'

I would actually prefer the smaller size of the HD-7P - plus my heaviest car is 4000lbs...no need for 9000lb capacity.

I have a height restriction with boxed in ducting in the corner where I am placing the lift...I only have 94 inches max.

Can the HD-7P be had with the shorter column height?
 

workhurts

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It's tall on the HD-7P and 7W because you can lock the car in at either 76" or 81" or soo .. can't remember which. Also the reason I'm getting it. I want to be able to walk under the runways without banging my head.

Just read you had a box up where one of the columns would go. How about getting the 7W then? That'd move the columns over a little. Not sure about the size of your obstruction or whether moving the lift a bit would clear it.
 
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Nolift911

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Why's the column height an issue? It's tall on the HD-7P and 7W because you can lock the car in at either 76" or 81" or soo .. can't remember which. Also the reason I'm getting it. I want to be able to walk under the runways without banging my head.

I have a height restriction with boxed in ducting in the corner where I am placing the lift...I only have 94 inches max.

Pic attached...the yellow line shows where I only have 94 inches vs. 115. The lift post for that corner will go where that big tall red cabinet is.

I know complicated...
 

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workhurts

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I'd still open it up and see where the duct work is exactly. You might have an inch or you might have 4. If it's a round duct vs a square duct ... you just never know till you look.

Do you have options on the other side of the garage? Can't tell which door is for what. I'm guessing the other door is to the house and this one is storage.
 
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workhurts

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btw, where you'd get the oil bottle storage from? I need some of those. Along with those other wall mounted cabinets?

Like the bike. I've got a blue R6.
 
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Nolift911

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I'd still open it up and see where the duct work is exactly. You might have an inch or you might have 4. If it's a round duct vs a square duct ... you just never know till you look.

Do you have options on the other side of the garage? Can't tell which door is for what. I'm guessing the other door is to the house and this one is storage.

Right one is HVAC(Hot water) and storage and the other is to the house...and btw thanks for all the comments and suggestions...it helps as I wade deeper and deeper
 
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Nolift911

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btw, where you'd get the oil bottle storage from? I need some of those. Along with those other wall mounted cabinets?

Like the bike. I've got a blue R6.

Those were from Griots...don't think they carry them anymore but you can search under oil, bottle storage, trailer storage and I think they are universal.

That is my 2005 Yamaha FZ6 - rode that bike from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean and back....R6 front end and brakes, Ohlins rear suspension and Marchesini wheels...I like it.

Thanks again-
 

domer911

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Thanks - that makes sense. Are those ok to use with a very low car like a lowered 911?

The aluminum option actually provides very slightly (maybe as much as 1/4")better clearance for your car than steel. My 997.2 still has stock suspension, so while I can't speak to whether or not it would work with your 911, I would bet a lot of $ that it would.
 

domer911

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Thanks for the info - I will factor that in to the equation. How do you like the RJ-45? Do you have one or two? I was thinking of getting two for doing alignments and 4 wheel cornerbalancing, for ease of on and off the scales while up in the air on the lift. What do they hook up to? Can use both at the same time?

Have any pics?

I just have one RJ-45. I can't imagine why you couldn't run with two. They run along the inside of each runway, and mine is "wired" into the lift's airline kit. For my P-cars I use OEM jackpads that twist and lock onto the car, so there's no chance I can lose contact with the RJ-45 at the jack point. So I'm guessing you'd be pretty safe employing two rolling jacks. That's kinda costly, but to each his own.
 

ChargedUp!

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Why not just get a 2 post with a floor plate and park the porsche up top. A four post just seems like it will be super tight in here. Just my opinion. ��
 
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Nolift911

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I just have one RJ-45. I can't imagine why you couldn't run with two. They run along the inside of each runway, and mine is "wired" into the lift's airline kit. For my P-cars I use OEM jackpads that twist and lock onto the car, so there's no chance I can lose contact with the RJ-45 at the jack point. So I'm guessing you'd be pretty safe employing two rolling jacks. That's kinda costly, but to each his own.

What is the height of the RJ-45? - my 911 is low, I have seen 3.5 inches tall and 4 inches tall above the runway...I need to take a measurement to see if that will work.

Trying to work out delivery options, if it is trucked to my house. It seems I can rent a 5000lb forklift for the day for $125 so that will get it off the truck plus into my garage and I assume assist with the install.

Anyone done this or have any other creative ideas to get from truck to garage?

I am sure there was some creative stuff done...
 

38Chevy454

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Trying to work out delivery options, if it is trucked to my house. It seems I can rent a 5000lb forklift for the day for $125 so that will get it off the truck plus into my garage and I assume assist with the install.

Anyone done this or have any other creative ideas to get from truck to garage?

I am sure there was some creative stuff done...

I did the free (as in included in purchase price, no extra cost) delivery to the truck terminal. Then picked my 4-post up using my car trailer, it took all of the length of the trailer. No way it would work in a pickup bed, the long runners are what makes the package big. Truck company loaded the lift package on the trailer with forklift.

Then I disassembled the package on the trailer and took it apart piece by piece. Myself and a friend were able to do the basic construction with help of some jacks and my engine hoist. Then I ran the cables and hydraulic lines to finish the install myself.
 
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