Also, quick shout out to Ron @ Precision Plasma LLC. Most guys run the CandCNC package which has 3/8 shaft motors. Flashcut uses 1/4 shafts. Ron swapped out the pinions for me no problem. I was accidentally shipped the 3/8 coupler for the z-axis. No big deal. I simply asked Ron if I had the correct part number to order a replacement from Velox. Ron got back to me right away and rushed the part out this morning [emoji106]
Another 4x8 Precision Plasma CNC Build
- Thread starter NWill
- Start date
Trey T
Well-known member
Awesome, OP. This is a great project for a youtube channel.
Ron, Zach & Anne are all great at flashcut. Seriously I bothered them so much and they were helpful every time.
There is a lot more to the full software than just the shape library and curved text.
The ability to turn height control on/off while cutting is a big one for me. So the torch won't dive in small circles.
Adjusting the voltage on the fly which I will also use.
Export as a DXF, this is big for me since i use lots of different software.
The ability to weld objects together in cad. This is a big one as i have it on my torchmate cad.
And not sure if it's a pro feature yet or out yet but they are working on being able to rotate the part in the CNC part of the software. Again this is a big one if you are importing or downloading a file that wasn't designed on flashcut.
Those reasons alone I'll be upgrading to the full software as soon as I get my machine up and running again. Waiting on a damn electrician.
I had someone give me an employee discount and cut my slats. 11 or 12 of them were $60 for 3/16" thick and about 24" wide. That was very cheap.
I just had my laser guy cut me 6 of them roughly the same size and that was $60.
They don't need to be too thick or too thin. 1/8"-3/16" is perfectly fine IMO
Ready to put slats in but the water table is warped from the 4th side being welded on. Any ideas how to fix this? I have an oxy/acetyl torch but no rosebud. Propane flame thrower thing but probably not hot enough. Maybe add some 2x2 steel to the underside between the cross braces so I have more to weld to and bring it flat? I should have this thing done today but now I'm stuck
Here you can see its high on left and low on right. Ideas?
Here you can see its high on left and low on right. Ideas?
Well I haven't updated in a while, I've been busy 
I got the table running a couple days after my last post so almost a month ago. I've burned through about 5 4x8 sheets and a bunch of drops so far. Here are a few random things I've made.
I got the table running a couple days after my last post so almost a month ago. I've burned through about 5 4x8 sheets and a bunch of drops so far. Here are a few random things I've made. Attachments
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Capstone
Well-known member
Looks like you're making good use of the table. Congratz
HCNDM
Well-known member
Man plasma makes for pretty cuts on a cnc. Congrats and cool build.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kazlx
Well-known member
Nice job...gets pretty addicting eh?
kazlx
Well-known member
You'll find it changes the way you build things. It's easier to draw a file and run to the table than other things, so you go that way a lot. You'll start thinking of how to make everything from flat sheet haha. It's really cool when you get beyond flat parts and start bending and folding. Being able to draw everything out and add in bend lines and not have to drill holes is the best.
Yep that's when it gets really fun. That fire ball thing was probably one of the most fun things I have ever built.
My fiance was asking me about a piece of base trim that needs replaced the other day. My first thought was how to make it on the table
It would be much easier considering this table consumed my woodshop.ovrrdrive
Well-known member
Looking good!
Looks like you've already sold some parts too. Outstanding.
Looks like you've already sold some parts too. Outstanding.
I did mine similar to kazlx. I welded about 70 pieces of angle iron cut at 12.5 degrees. I used 3" 11ga for the slats cut about 1" long so they bend. I set one in place and used my angle finder to get the 12.5 degree angle.
My table is 11ga bent on 3 sides and welded on 4th, 4" deep. I had a bunch of 2' pieces of .5x.5 stainless tube I set in pan to raise slats. This gives me .5" under slats and above slats for splashing which hasn't been a problem at all.
My water depth is one thing I actually forgot to check on. What are you other guys running? I cut 99% 11 and 12ga steel. I think I'm maybe 3/8" under the work piece. This is just where it ended up...I need to research that. This could be low and why I get zero splashing outside of table.
I was using flap wheels but they add up quick. I recently switched to a cup wheel on a 6" Metabo and it works very well but it's a little sketchy trying to hold a part with one hand and too time consuming using a vice. I may try a strong magnet to hold the piece or try cup wheel on the lighter HF grinder.
It's has only been an issue when cutting a ton of 4" letters.
It's has only been an issue when cutting a ton of 4" letters.
Crusarius
Well-known member
set up stops on the table to press the plate against. As long as you grind the correct direction that works beautifully.
kazlx
Well-known member
If I was going to do anything different with the water table, I would have made the sides higher so the slats are actually lower than the sides. The one thing I hate about my table is the mess.
Edit: For dross, I also use a knotted cup on a 4.5 angle grinder. I've been meaning to get a tumbling setup like the HF mixer, but space is a premium and I don't do a ton of smaller parts that often.
Edit: For dross, I also use a knotted cup on a 4.5 angle grinder. I've been meaning to get a tumbling setup like the HF mixer, but space is a premium and I don't do a ton of smaller parts that often.
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We use a steel bench as a grinding table and clothespin clamps or Vise Grip quickie clamps The Vise Grips we put a stick on felt foot on them to avoid marking the material since we go straight from grinding to finishing with ONLY AIR after grinding... I do things made from 18 Ga up to Half inch plate this way... Dialing in the table to all but eliminate Dross is key, on 18 I run at 300 IPM, I DO NOT have time for DROSS... on 3/16 I get a bit in the tighter corners and I have to hit it with a grinder for welding and I use P&O because I don't have time to acid etch EVERY part... I do a lot of aluminum parts lately so I have a bit of a different method for that a not knotted cup, softer etc... looks OK... I am generally coating everything and just so you know this is a two man shop, and we are using 2000# of 18 Ga a week. and Plate less often. I seldom use 14 or 11 but when I do it is generally smaller letters and such.. 2" or less...
kazlx
Well-known member
I use a 2'x4' traction mat, like the kind you stand on, but no holes. It's kind of rubbery, so it's basically non skid. The pressure from pushing down with the grinder pretty much keeps pieces in place. It nice because there's no clamping and I can move pieces around easily so I don't have to reach. I usually do a knotted wire wheel then finish up with DA sander and 60 grit. I also have an air Angle due grinder with 80 grit rolocs for cleaning up stubborn boogers or pierce points.
These all have various methods of finishing, but All were deburred with a Knotted Cup or a soft Cup... Some have a grind pattern done with Flappers, I have a grocery cart full of used flaps, and I order them by the hundreds.... Usually from Roark Supply...
kazlx
Well-known member
Kroger, you clearing those grind finishes or just leaving them bare? Signs look great.
