Another air hammer request - DIY

[Sneezer]

I have looked through all the past threads, but I am looking for current input…. I am strictly DIY, fix my own cars but I am looking to do the shocks/struts on my in laws 2003 Ford Taurus (2 of them). Seems a long stroke air hammer would help a great deal for this job, and others I may have later on down the road. All I have right now is a cheapo Craftsman medium stroke one.

Most of the threads in the past devolved to recommendations for the CP717, Snap On or the Big Nasty, which are all way more than I am willing to spend. I was looking more along the lines of the Sunex, IR 118/119, HF Chief or maybe the Napa Carlyle ones. However - I can’t seem to nail down who makes the current Carlyle units - an older model looked to be a Sunex according to a repair site I found, and some claimed they were made by the same group that does Mac?

I am putting my budget at around $150 I think - hard to justify much more than that - so what would the collective recommend?

I do think I like the top line Carlyle for the built in swivel and reduced vibration, but I can’t seem to find any reviews on it yet.

 

[metaleltr]

Ingersoll Rand is a top quality tool right at the top of your budget.

Amazon.com

The tests I have seen of the HF chief also place it in high regards. Either should serve you well.

 

[Wrench97]

IR or HF Chef, reduced vibration won't be a big benefit in a limited use situation plus NAPA seems to be changing oem's so much lately it's hard to tell what you are getting this month.

 

[unslow1]

Try watching the Torque Test Channel. They tested air hammers and post here.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=torque+test+channel+air+hammer

 

[VolvoRyan]

The big IR 119MAX tests well. I have the previous generation air hammer (118MAX) since spring 2020, and really like it.

-Ryan

 

[Zewnten]

Harbor Freight chief, use it every day almost as a heavy equipment mechanic. Hits as hard as my snap on but no trigger control so you need to make sure you're not finessing something.

 

[nadogail]

The Ingersoll Rand name has a very long history of making top quality tools.

 

[Jagmandave]

Why do you think your will need that to change struts?

 

[Sneezer]

Why do you think your will need that to change struts?

Taurus uses a pinch bolt to secure the control arm to the strut Everything I have seen indicates it is a much easier job using a hammer to force the arm off the strut. I offered to do both their cars and don't want to get caught off guard once I tear into it. Pretty sure these are the original ones too, with 168k miles on the clock.

 

[rcbk00]

I'd get the Ingersoll Rand 119MAX long barrell. $159 for the kit on Amazon at the moment. I bought the 118MAX a couple of years ago and I'm amazed at how hard it hits, even on a small compressor. I had a crappy air chisel before and it was pretty much worthless. The IR, on the other hand, is great. Worth every penny.

 

[Snapped-off]

IR, CP, Astro

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Otc 6578 hub clamp expander will greatly reduce your suffering and time with the air hammer. When reinstalling I prefer to sit the strut upside down on the ground, and knock the knuckle onto it. Grease helps.

Seems like a toy when you use it - how could this even help? Well it does. Ill second others as to the torque test channel videos.

 

[Kenskip1]

I purchased the Chief Air Hammer from Harbor Freight. For the cost you can't beat it.

 

[Handyandy23]

I'm DIY and I ended up with the Sunex SX243, and it has worked well for me. A lot more punch than my short barrel no name gun I had before. I've read that it's the same gun that was rebranded for MAC and Matco for a long time, so it seems to be a pretty stout design.

I don't have any experience with the others so I can't really say how it compares. I have quite a few Ingersoll Rand air tools and they are all good quality so I'm sure that 119MAX gun would be good as well, but when it came down to it I wasn't sure it was worth double the price ($77 vs $159 on Amazon right now).

 

[Buckgnarly]

Otc 6578 hub clamp expander will greatly reduce your suffering and time with the air hammer. When reinstalling I prefer to sit the strut upside down on the ground, and knock the knuckle onto it. Grease helps.

Seems like a toy when you use it - how could this even help? Well it does. Ill second others as to the torque test channel videos.

Never saw that, how does it work? We talking like VAG front stuff clamps/pinch bolts?

Nevermind, found a video....like a chisel that presses in....that's cool.

 

[NYBODYMAN]

I used IR tools in a shop setting for over 10 years. I am still using the same tools and they are going strong as ever. Can't go wrong with IR in my opinion.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Never saw that, how does it work? We talking like VAG front stuff clamps/pinch bolts?

Nevermind, found a video....like a chisel that presses in....that's cool.

It only pushes in a few mm, and makes a big difference.

The VAG nonsense of steel bolts in aluminum knuckles is still a PITA. Opening the pinch area doesnt help if the bolt is corroded in. At a certain point you need to just quote a knuckle.

 

[joshmodelskidoo]

Im considering the hf chief for myself. Torque test channel and koon trucking I see are mentioned and I believe they rate quite well if I remember correctly

 

[Sneezer]

Im considering the hf chief for myself. Torque test channel and koon trucking I see are mentioned and I believe they rate quite well if I remember correctly

I am looking at that one too, but the trigger control ***** apparently. Right now I think the IR119 is going to be the one I get. I did find some parts diagrams, and I am fairly confident the NAPA 6108 that they sell now is a slightly tweaked IR model. The 119 was almost identical from what I could tell, but strangely enough the IR is much cheaper than the NAPA version.

 

[setfocus]

If it's an old Taurus, careful with that rear strut pinch bolt, the bolt threads into knuckle and I've seen guys snap that bolt many times. The next generation Taurus/500 rear struts are a complete nightmare. For newer Taurus front struts, get dealer mounts if replacing, the after market mounts are garbage

 

[B_Bimmer]

The previous model snap on is still a beast and readily available on ebay. The seal for the trigger is the only part I've ever replaced and it was cheap and easy to get from snap on.

 

[johnny_boy02]

I'd get the Ingersoll Rand 119MAX long barrell. $159 for the kit on Amazon at the moment. I bought the 118MAX a couple of years ago and I'm amazed at how hard it hits, even on a small compressor. I had a crappy air chisel before and it was pretty much worthless. The IR, on the other hand, is great. Worth every penny.

I agree. My 119MAX kit showed up yesterday and it’s really really nice for the price.

 

[Steve_P]

I have the IR 114 and it's feeble when compared to a Snap On PH3050. So don't buy that if you actually want brute force. If I was buying now, I'd look at the HF Chief, Aircat, etc. The 119MAX also looks good for the $

 

[Mas78]

Changed struts last year on my 07 taurus, it is easier to slide the old strut out with an air hammer, I've just got a cheap one myself and would have liked a better one.
Already mentioned but really try not to break that pinch bolt. Use an impact and spray of your choice and work it back and forth.
Stick a punch or flat screwdriver in the gap to hold the casting open a little to make easier to remove the strut.

I also put taxi struts on my rear and now when I put tools or a car load of people the rear doesn't sag, I really like them.