Another Ballistix install thread

[Schoeny]

Been watching some of the other threads, figured I'd make my own to not muddy up those continuing conversations.

We just closed on our new home in small town Iowa, in city limits, but built as big of an attached garage as we could within the lot limitations.

We've got essentially a 950 sq. ft. garage in an "L" shape, which the floor concrete was poured back in early March.

The concrete was power troweled, and left with a very smooth finish from the concrete team.

I started out renting a floor polisher and running a red pad on it (dry) to try and get up some of the drywall/paint/etc that was left over from the build.


After about 20 minutes of that, I decided to go with a black pad as the red wasn't removing enough for my liking.


Once clean, I got some Quickcrete patch compound to fill in a few voids that were too big to ignore and sanded them back flush with a 120 grit pad on my palm sander.


I planned to mop it up and get ready for install, but after a bit of realizing it was A) too big, and B)too dirty, I went to HD and rented a hard floor cleaner/vacuum and it was WAAAAAY easier and more effective. Still took a bit of effort to move it around, but it was totally worth it.


Waited another couple days for the temps to get down a bit, then applied the Armorpoxy 8400X sealer with a roller, and cut in the edges with a cheap chip brush. This took about an hour to do by myself, and was very easy work as it's so liquid and you're just trying to get a layer on it to have the pad soak it up.



As mentioned in other threads, the sealer went a LONG way on this floor since it was so smooth. I only used about 2/3 of the two gallons sent, so I still have 1-1/3 left for the basketball court next spring.


I left that overnight and the next evening, my wife and I applied the Ballistix.

The mix got very hot, very quick, as the instructions said, and after about an hour, I dropped it in the freezer to cool it down so we wouldn't be applying at midnight (as suggested in their YouTube videos). 30 minutes later, it was under 100, and I mixed in part C, then 5 minutes later, mixed in the antiskid powder that my wife thought was cocaine.


I ran the sprayer with her following along with the mop, and we worked our way through the garage in about 45 minutes and left to eat.

Came home a few hours later and it was dry to the touch. The next morning I walked out on it and everything looks dry and set up to continue curing.

 

[Schoeny]

A couple thoughts/observations for others doing this....

1) The sealer does leave a texture after the rolling, just a very slight orange peel. If you are going for a "glass" finish, you'll either need to spray this on, or find a way to not leave any "standing" sealer after your roller goes over it like in my pictures above. I think this looks fine in my application, and probably provides a little more anti slip this way, but just something to note.

2) Watching their application videos, I've seen where they only move straight back and forth, and one where the mop person is just going wherever the heck he feels like (in the wet area). I think both would work, but it is nice if you have a light source in front of you to confirm that you aren't missing spots, as it's tough to see where the Ballistix is some spots because of either concrete color or lack of lighting. The sealer has a satin sheen to it as well, so make sure you're checking for coverage because you can't go back.

3) Get a hard floor cleaner. No questions asked this was the best $80 spent on the project for that 24 hour rental to get that slab spotless.

3) Quickrete patch compound dries WHITE. It does stand out if that matters to you. I just wanted them filled, so I just shrugged it off when I discovered that, I'm not a showroom.

4) The fumes when Part A/B are mixing are not that bad. I thought I'd get killed for putting it in the freezer, but I kept checking, and it didn't really smell, wife doesn't even know I did it. When applying it, you do notice the fumes periodically, but they weren't as bad as I expected.

 

[AdamMopar]

From a fellow Iowan it looks great! I am hoping to do the same in my 40x60 once the slab is poured this fall. Thanks for the tips.

 

[heymack]

The pictures look great and I'm considering this for my shop. Are you completely satisfied with the product during and after installation?

 

[Schoeny]

From a fellow Iowan it looks great! I am hoping to do the same in my 40x60 once the slab is poured this fall. Thanks for the tips.

Thanks. If you have any questions, or want to see it in person, reach out (we're just west of the DM Metro). And good luck with your build.

The pictures look great and I'm considering this for my shop. Are you completely satisfied with the product during and after installation?

At this point, yes, I'm completely happy. Once the prep work was done, there were NO surprises whatsoever.

The sealer went down easy, the product mixed just like their video said it would (Mixing Video), and the Ballistix itself laid down easy over the top of the sealer as was forgiving about going back one pass to wet an area we missed.

The only part that wasn't spelled out anywhere online was the antiskid, but you mix that in right before it goes in the sprayer. (And don't miss it, it hides in the packing peanuts. I actually called them saying I didn't get it before I found it down there.)

 

[KPack]

That turned out really nice. I wish I would've rented a hard floor cleaner rather than beating myself up with a sander and swing polisher.

The first time I laid out the Ballistix I didn't wear a respirator because none of the videos showed it. But I had a headache the rest of the day and was a bit light headed towards the end of job. We had all the doors and windows closed because the wind was blowing in cottonwood seeds.

The second time I sprayed Ballistix I wore a respirator and it was much better. The alcohol smell can get really strong in an enclosed space.

And I agree, the 8400X sealer left a rougher finish due to the knap on the roller. Spraying may have been a better option for me.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Floor looks great, thank you for your business! Great job, and as noted in other posts when you even out the porosity of the floor with the sealer the product flows down beautifully. We include in the kits the sprayer, microfiber mops, heads, ISO alcohol cleaner, etc. Best to spray and mop and that's it!

 

[Wooduckman]

That looks great! I’m getting ready to place an order to do so the slab in my 42x60’ shop that was built earlier this summer. I have a couple quick questions- is this the Squire or NCO Ballistix? Also, when you say a hard floor cleaner, are you talking something like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Nilfisk-Advance-Hard-Surface-Cleaner-L08992029/310643401

Thanks!

 

[Armorpoxy]

This was the Squire (glossier version). We will let the OP weigh in on what he rented to clean the floor.

 

[Wooduckman]

Thanks for the reply. Are there any side by side pictures showing the squire next to the NCO?

 

[Armorpoxy]

Here are two side by sides as best as can be easily photographed of the Ballistix NCO/Satin vs the Squire/Gloss

 

[Schoeny]

That looks great! I’m getting ready to place an order to do so the slab in my 42x60’ shop that was built earlier this summer. I have a couple quick questions- is this the Squire or NCO Ballistix? Also, when you say a hard floor cleaner, are you talking something like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Nilfisk-Advance-Hard-Surface-Cleaner-L08992029/310643401

Thanks!

I applied squire. In a garage with LED strip lights 11' high, and two windows without blinds yet, its just about right. Blinding if you're in the sun glare though if that's an issue with your window placement/sun location.

For the floor cleaner, yes, that's what I thought I was getting when I reserved it online through HD.

This is what I actually got. It worked well, and it fit into the back of our SUV easily when the handle was broken down and folded. I was able to lift in and out myself (but it's just awkward enough that having another set of hands makes it REALLY easy).
Karcher Floor Scrubber

If this is the one you get, actually read the instructions, or watch a YouTube video on how to set it up for use. It's not the most intuitive machine to get from transport to usable.

 

[Wooduckman]

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I think I’m going to go with the NCO to try and keep the sheen down on days that I have all the bay doors open. Hopefully mine turns out at well as yours did.

 

[Jim N]

The floor looks great! Nice work. I am going to use the same kit and process in a couple of weeks on a new 780 sq. ft. shop space. The one question I have is...Did you use the isopropyl alcohol on the floor after the 8400 sealer was cured and just prior to applying the Ballistix? I did not see a mention of that step. If not, why? I hope I can get as good a result.

Jim

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, a quick wipe of Iso on the 8400 won't hurt, it 're activates it' a bit. Not a required step but won't cause any problems.

 

[Schoeny]

@Jim N I did do just it before the Ballistix application while it was "cooking".

I'd assume it wouldn't matter much if it stayed clean like mine did indoors, but I'm pretty sure I read that was a step at some point (or heard it on their videos on YouTube) or I wouldn't have done it.

It did make the sealer a little tacky again, probably what Armorpoxy is alluding to with the re-activation.

 

[Jim N]

Thanks a lot for the replies! I am excited to give it a try. Checking on hard floor cleaner rentals in the mean time. The floor was poured back in June. I close on the purchase early November. From a recent walk through it it looks like they clean the units well but I figure renting the cleaner will be good insurance.

Jim

 

[Jim N]

One more question...I understand the Ballistix dries to the touch in a few hours, and is 100% cured in a week. But...How long did you wait to start moving in work benches and shelving and the like? I was going to wait a week to bring my race car down but I'd like to start setting other things up sooner. What did you do?

 

[Schoeny]

Hey, just noticed this reply...

I was doing it on a new construction house that I had the luxury of time on my side as I didn't have to be out of the old place immediately.

I think I gave it 24 hours before I walked on it, and I gave it the full week before I moved anything in.

One other thing to note, if you're going for "immaculate" finish, metal will leave little white "scratches" in the finish (even light scooter kickstands). They kind of go away if you clean/wet them, but if you don't want a noticeable one, make sure you're carrying and not dragging that stuff.

 

[stick70]

Any idea if the scratching you reference would be better or worse with the satin version of this product?

 

[ad244]

Looks great! - Mind me asking what the cost was roughly to complete that space? I have a nearly identical Garage

 

[Schoeny]

Any idea if the scratching you reference would be better or worse with the satin version of this product?

I would assume it would be a little less obvious without the sheen, but don't read TOO much into it. It's one of those "only you'll notice it" type of things that if you're just walking through you don't really see. Plus the concrete itself has enough variation in it to mask/hide it too.

I wasn't expecting it to be bullet proof, but at the same time, I wasn't expecting little white lines everywhere either when anything dragged across it. That being said, as I said before, I wasn't looking for show room, I was looking for extra living/working space with sealed concrete. They really are superficial, and if you mopped/cleaned with a wet rag, they'd mostly go away.

Here's a couple examples:
This was from moving the fridge out to install a heater and roll it back. Here it is kneeling down

Here's the same spot after licking my finger and rubbing it away

Here's that spot standing up


Here's another spot standing before wiping away

Here it is closer

And here's the same spot with the middle wiped away

Looks great! - Mind me asking what the cost was roughly to complete that space? I have a nearly identical Garage

I ordered a 1000 sq ft package from Armorpoxy's website and an infrared thermometer. That totaled to $1110.

I think my garage was around 950 sq ft, but I had PLENTY of sealer (only used half of what was given, still have the other container), and I feel like I had another 200-400 sq ft of Ballistix left as well. They definitely don't give you just enough to cover the 1000 sq ft they advertise, if you're really at 1000 or under, you'll have enough.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi
The rated scratch resistance is equal to our Military Grade Topcoat. That being said, all coatings being in the resin family have hardness levels lower than steel or rocks so they can be scratched if sharp objects are dragged on them. We wouldn‘t expect Ballistix to scratch more or less than a standard epoxy or polyaspartic floor.

We do offer a special one part urethane which has a higher resistant rating for those that want the maximum scratch resistance, but this product is not as chemical or stain resistant as Ballistix, so it depends on your preferences.

Lastly in our kits due to packaging container sizes available when we need an amount to cover a certain floor size the quantity of containers needed never exactly falls evenly so we always round up so you have plenty of extra and a safety factor,plus we need to allow as best as possible for very porous floors since we know that nothing is more aggravating than blocking out a weekend and running out of product.

 

[Schoeny]

And I'd like to follow that up for anyone reading with another statement that I would absolutely buy and apply this again (and will on our basketball court next summer/fall).

I'm just trying to be super transparent so everyone can get a read off of my installation in their research, but I appreciate the follow up info.

Armorpoxy shipped quick and answered the phone when I called with a question too, highly suggest going through them if you do end up ordering this product.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Thank you! We do try our best!

 

[stick70]

Thanks for the insight guys. For how I use my floor I doubt that light scratching would be noticeable, but good information to have.

 

[Dyers78]

This is great info. I am looking at doing the same process and also from Iowa - so concerned about winter salts and such. How is this holding up?

 

[mb190sl]

Schoney, did your floor have a concrete curing compound applied when it was poured? I have a new floor ready to coat but it has an acrylic curing compound and not sure it that is an issue with the Ballistix. I was considering the same prep as you, buffer with black pad then clean prior to the 8400 sealer and Ballistix.

 

[Schoeny]

This is great info. I am looking at doing the same process and also from Iowa - so concerned about winter salts and such. How is this holding up?

We still haven't parked a car in there yet, so it hasn't seen snow/salt (I'm building furniture for my boy's room, so it's a wood shop right now).

I have noticed some of the water getting through to the concrete like other posts have mentioned (snow from the snow blower, boots, golf cart when it's raining), but it seems to dry/evaporate out after a couple days, so I'm not super concerned about it.

Haven't reached out to Armorpoxy or the supplier about it yet, was hoping one of those other members would share their findings before I put in any effort finding out for myself.

The only thing that truly bothers me is a 4" miss right in front of the steps going in the house where I missed applying. But I keep telling myself we're going to put a small landing out there for shoe/bag storage, so it'll be covered someday, but the perfectionist in me is devastated.

And of course, one of the lights reflects right there as you're walking out to remind me EVERY SINGLE TIME I go out there.

Schoney, did your floor have a concrete curing compound applied when it was poured? I have a new floor ready to coat but it has an acrylic curing compound and not sure it that is an issue with the Ballistix. I was considering the same prep as you, buffer with black pad then clean prior to the 8400 sealer and Ballistix.

I did not have a curing compound that I'm aware of. All it had was time to cure during construction before I got to work on it. I'd check with the supplier either way to get confirmation.

 

[mb190sl]

I am curious to see what you find out. Curing compound is pretty common for flat work around here. My curing compound is not visible at first glance. if you get close to it and in the right light the reflection shows it a little. Sounds like the sealer and Ballistix stick to most existing surfaces but I want to make sure. It will be a real pain if it has to be removed.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, yes the Ballistix system will stick to virtually any concrete. Rarely do we see cure/seals that won't be compatible.

 

[daveross]

Older thread, I realize, but getting ready to proceed with my shop slab, which was poured 18 months ago. 980 sq.ft. I'm going to hit it with a light grind (sand it, really) to remove any topical stains from 18 months of use (doing everything myself in this restoration/rebuild and I'm not retired yet, so it's taking some time). I appreciate all the time spent providing details of your experiences. My floor was troweled very well and I don't have holes to fill. I have a few questions I haven't seen answered here in case someone has experience/info to share:

• Anything to warn me about the light grinding I plan to do (understand the cleaning afterward)? Not looking to polish or expose aggregate too much - don't really care if that happens; looking for a concrete look, smooth, semi-gloss, easy to clean and looks nice when you do, brooms sawdust nicely (dust slides without being kicked up), oils wipe up, water flows to drain well.
• I have one low spot where water will flow to wall, so I have to use a self-levelling concrete to bring that up. Any comments/experiences with doing that first?
• For relief cuts, is the recommended process to fill with something like a Sika self-levelling sealant after Ballistix? Other preferences?
• Some on this thread have mentioned anti-skid. I'd really like to avoid anti-skid, which is one of the reasons I am keen on the covalent sealers like Coval and Ballistix that are highly hydrophobic. Has anyone had issues with the floor not being hydrophobic after some time? Perhaps when the floor is a bit dirty those properties don't persist?
• I'd like my floor to be bit darker than the cured concrete color. I see in the pics that the floors darken with the new application of product... does that last, or would anyone recommend a tint (if you can do that with these sealers)?

I did ask some questions of Armorpoxy when i was pouring my pad and they were amazing to get back to me with lots of info... I don't want to pester them too much before actually buying something, and appreciate the customer experiences shared here.

Thanks all!