Another Compressor question.

[charger]

I would like to know if anyone has an eagle air compressor and how you would rate them.Ican get a 5hp 60gal tank 18.5 cfm @100psi for 929.00 plus tax and would this be suitable for a 10 gal. pressure blaster. IT can be seen at www.eaglecompressor.com The compressor # is C5160V1

 

[eschoendorff]

I would like to know if anyone has an eagle air compressor and how you would rate them.Ican get a 5hp 60gal tank 18.5 cfm @100psi for 929.00 plus tax and would this be suitable for a 10 gal. pressure blaster. IT can be seen at www.eaglecompressor.com The compressor # is C5160V1

Are they primarily a Canadian outfit? Haven't heard of them... not that it's a bad thing. Will parts be available should you need them?

 

[charger]

They have production facilities in calargy, alberta & hickman, kentucky. they carry a full line of parts.

 

[milkovich]

I've never heard of them either but a google search shows the street price for the C5160V1 at $799 drop shipped which sounds pretty good.

I would check out the Bel-aire 216V too if you're shopping in the $800 range. I know for a fact the ABAC Bel-aire is a good compressor for the money and it uses few overseas components and the tank's rated for 165 psi instead of 150.

CFM ratings are pretty much useless when comparing compressors.

 

[rubadub]

Its a single stage, and it has a pressure switch set at 95 to 125psi.

I'm not trying to cut this compressor down, but I will tell you what I have run into.

When you sand blast, you will probably need at least 110psi at your regulator on the end of your air line, then you will lose 5 or more psi from there to the pressure blaster.

When i bead blast, I will set my regulator at 120psi, bead blasters are not pressurized, so you need a little more psi, anyway mine does.

So you might be down at the bottom end as far as holding enough pressure, but then again maybe not.

After i sand blasted my car body, I was cleaning the sand out, and it wasn't getting it out at the floor supports, so I maxed out my regulator at about 150 lbs, so i was probably getting about 110 to 130 at the nozzle, that worked really good.

I'm on my third around $800 two stage compressor right now, I should have bought a bigger one to start, but anyway.

I would look at an eaton or quincy or whatever for around $1300 or 1400, there probably 10 to 1 better then what I have, that extra few hundred will you get you an all around lot stronger compressor.

Also these compressors have duty cycles, you can run them a while and then you have to wait for them to cool down.

Anyway, a two stage for around $1400, those are the units.

Hope this might have helped you out.

Rob

http://www.1969supersport.com

 

[rubadub]

Heres a little more.

Sandblasting will generate quite a bit of moisture in your air lines, because of the heat from the compressor, as it cools.

I don't know what you know about this, but you might know more then me, but somebody else might be able to use this.

Sandblasting for the first few times can be a nasty experience, but if you set up right for it, you will have better luck.

I actually enjoy sand and bead blasting as a hobbist. But as soon as the moisture starts showing up in the bottom of the sand, then the fun starts.

You have to make sure the dead man valve is closed or hold something over the end of it so you can blow back through the blaster, to get the moisture moved around, then it will work again, then a couple minutes later, the same thing over again.

So, you go back to square one, and start looking at your air lines, what type and how long, like the distance from the compressor to the inline filters that remove the dirt and water.

Heres a rough idea on how to come off a compressor http://www.1969supersport.com/draw1.html.

I guess I have spent a t least 2000 hours looking at different types of air line setups.

Tp tools, go to google, they have a technical tips on what type of piping to run, and why. These guys understand the sand blasting deal, and if you can put in some good air lines and sand blast without a moisture problem you will never have a problem painting.

When you get moisture or water going into your air tool, it will wear out faster, because the water will carry more rust with it. Something like that.

I have changed my airlines a couple of times, and now they work really good.

The lines I have don't have an air dryer, air dryers are not necessary if you run enough pipe, anyway, I always get challenged on this, but, just telling you what I have run into.

Heres tp tools wbsite. http://www.tptools.com/

Now go to the solid red bar near the top of the page, and click on tips & tech.

then go down to airline hookup metal piping diagram.

then go down to minimize moisture in your airlines, with metal piping.

Rob

http://www.1969supersport.com

 

[russlaferrera]

I checked out the Eagle site. Could not find any info on Duty Cycle. Motor, 3600 rpm and Compressor, 1260 rpm, shows me it will be loud.

What are the requirements for your sand blaster, and other air tools?

This is the Prime statement, "Bigger is always better" Buy what you can afford. Buy it once!

 

[bmwpower]

Wow. Looks overkill, but does it get the job done? No drain before entering tank?

 

[bmwpower]

I've never heard of them either but a google search shows the street price for the C5160V1 at $799 drop shipped which sounds pretty good.

I would check out the Bel-aire 216V too if you're shopping in the $800 range. I know for a fact the ABAC Bel-aire is a good compressor for the money and it uses few overseas components and the tank's rated for 165 psi instead of 150.

CFM ratings are pretty much useless when comparing compressors.

CFM is the ONLY way to compare compressors.

 

[charger]

The pressure blaster i will be using requires 6 to25 cfm & the working pressure is 65 to 125 psi. It is recomended to use a 5hp or larger compressor so i guess larger would be better. Thanks for the info.

 

[rubadub]

Wow. Looks overkill, but does it get the job done? No drain before entering tank?

Good questions.

The tank has its own drain, and I know it looks like over kill, but the intent of the drawing was, a guy could look at it, and maybe save a couple trips to the building supply or hardware store to get pieces.

If you run the pipe like this, with everything on a slope, then the water will drain down to the lowest level, and then you have a drain.

You can't keep the water out of an air line, you just have to figure how to keep it out of your air tools or paint gun.

And you ask if it works, on my website under paint room you can see how I put the piping in, and the layout of the filters. My setup works really good, and without an air dryer.

Putting in a good set of air lines takes a little planning, and a while to put them in, like buying a good compressor, once you got it right, you can forget about it.

I mentioned earlier about sand blasting, I use a siphon, a pressurized pot and a bead blaster, and I fought with it off and on for quite a while, so I just kept changing this and that, then I researched every thing I could find about air lines.

I finally got it right, now I don't have to monkey with it.

I know I go on and on, but anyway, if your still listening.

You take a hobbist, lets say he's going to paint a motorcycle tank or car or whatever. He just payed out some good money for the paint, he's home alone on the weekend, in the evening, he starts painting, and all of a sudden theres a problem with the way the paint looks or whatever.

Its late, who can he call to help solve it, well if the air lines and compressor are right, that eliminates the moisture and dirt, and thats one less thing he has to be concerned with. And you know, thats a pretty nice thing to have in your back pocket to keep your confidence up.

If you can run a minumum of 50 feet of 3/4'' black pipe before you go through the filters, that will work, I think I'm close to 60 feet, then I run another 50 or 60 feet to one more filter in the paint booth.

Once you get any moisture at all in a sandblast pot, then its a constant fight to keep blowing back through it to get more abrasive out of it. I'm sure theres some guys on here that have been down that same road.

Rob

http://www.1969supersport.com

 

[milkovich]

CFM is the ONLY way to compare compressors.

I suppose it would... if the number on the tank had anything to do with the actual cfm of the unit. The cfm ratings by manufacturers are so wildly overstated it borders on false advertising in my opinion.

 

[charger]

I would like to know if anyone might have any comments about this compressor,or if you have one. It"s a 5 hp two stage, and it can be seen at www.princessauto.com on page 13. The sale price ia $1499.00 plus it needs a magnetic starter,i am working on a truck and i need to do some sand blasting on the frame.