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Another Craftsman 150 rebuild

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larryq

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Jul 12, 2011
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Thanks for this thread, I've got it bookmarked for when I finally work up the courage to disassemble and restore my bench top Craftsman / Atlas press.
 

Cruzan80

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Jul 22, 2015
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Frank, for my feed rod and nut, I simply turn it like that when I don't need depth control. Then it can ride up and down as needed, as it isn't engaging the threads.
 
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TXNinAZ

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Oct 9, 2011
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Some unsolicited advice...

You might consider moving the belt down a couple/few steps to slow it down. As shown, you're turning the spindle at 5000 RPM. That's shaper speed. The belt on my woodworking DP is at the lowest steps which suits my needs most of the time.

Also, the feed stop lock bolt should be locking on the threads of the feed stop rod, not the flats... 90 degrees as shown. As is, if you apply any significant feed pressure, that bolt will scar the scale.



Thanks for posting it for future readers. I already changed the belt- it was on the highest speed when I was getting everything lined up. The depth stop is just kinda sitting there at the moment. I haven't been able to get it threaded on the rod/gauge so I don't know if I'm just incompetent, or if the threads are boogered up.
 
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TXNinAZ

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I see lots of those rapid adjust feed stops used incorrectly and even installed upside down. That was a very nice improvement over the previous style. I swapped one into my 100.
I never thought about letting it free-float.



Is it supposed to thread onto the bar with the bushing-thing in place? Like I said above- I can't get mine to thread on there so I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
 
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TXNinAZ

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Yes. That's very odd that it's not engaging onto the rod threads. You probably removed the bolt and tried it?




Yep. Everything off the press and trying to thread it from the top. No obvious damage to the threads on either part. I assume I'm just not 2% smarter than the parts.
 
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TXNinAZ

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Doesn't look messed up.

e43808ab20fa822fdaa740685b53edc0.jpg
 
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bubinga

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Jul 26, 2014
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Thanks for the advice. Do you find that shielded are preferable in applications like this? Or is it 'just the way it is' kind of thing.

Everyone has their own preference. I opt for shielded on the pulley, sealed on the spindle.
Yeah, shielded should be fine. You figure thats what the factory used, and look how long they lasted.
I used the shielded,
I had to loc-tite the inner races, cause the one closest to the pulley fell right on.
 

nine4gmc

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Mar 24, 2012
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Dallas
I run rubber sealed bearings on most all of my restos, don't want to have to worry about lubing them again in my lifetime.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
 

bubinga

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I could stop the column from spinning with my hand. That would be bad for the drill, but there really was no danger in this setup.
I have a benchtop 150, got it about 15 years ago, It was/still is gold. I repainted it.
But the post being shorter, I as able to make some wooded cones, and
i forget, friction drove it, or used a threaded studed face plate in the wood.
Oh, used my Oliver wood lathe.
 
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Cruzan80

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Jul 22, 2015
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Denver, CO
Last idea on the depth rod threading issue. Take it off if need be, but post some higher res pictures. Maybe the depth rod is the issue and was replaced at some point, so that is why it won't thread.

Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth. -ACD
 
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