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Another Craftsman 150 Series DP

bmw57isetta

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The longer you keep it in the freezer the better. If you don't get it the first time just pop it back in there for a while and try to remove them immediately when you take it out. Let us know if that works for you.
 
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wiwest

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The longer you keep it in the freezer the better. If you don't get it the first time just pop it back in there for a while and try to remove them immediately when you take it out. Let us know if that works for you.

I left it in for 24 hours and nada. Puller will be here tomorrow. Looking at the clearance between the bearing and pully I'm wondering if I'll even be able to get a bit on the bearing with the jaws.
 

tiggi

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You can weld a piece of tubing to the bearing and pull it that way.
 

src60

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I also tried the freezer method with no success. My junk HF puller would not fit under the bearing. The foot on the end of the puller leg would not fit between the bearing and the pulley. I considered grinding the feet thinner on my HF puller but I had a good small 2-jaw puller that would fit between the bearing and the pulley but it was too short to work. I took some of the longer flat plate arms from my bigger HF puller and used them on my smaller good puller and it all fit. I still had to put the feet of the pullers arms under the bearing and then assemble the puller. The bearing came off pretty easy once I got the puller on.
Thinning the feet to fit would probably work but the puller would probably break if you tried to put much tension on it to pull something bigger later on.
I hope my 'terminology' on this isn't to bad to make sense of what I did.
Steve
 
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wiwest

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You can weld a piece of tubing to the bearing and pull it that way.

I'll give the puller a shot when it gets here first. If that doesnt work I may give that a shot. Ive had my welder for a few months now and its got to be one of the most veratile tools. So much I dont even think to use it.
 
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wiwest

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I also tried the freezer method with no success. My junk HF puller would not fit under the bearing. The foot on the end of the puller leg would not fit between the bearing and the pulley. I considered grinding the feet thinner on my HF puller but I had a good small 2-jaw puller that would fit between the bearing and the pulley but it was too short to work. I took some of the longer flat plate arms from my bigger HF puller and used them on my smaller good puller and it all fit. I still had to put the feet of the pullers arms under the bearing and then assemble the puller. The bearing came off pretty easy once I got the puller on.
Thinning the feet to fit would probably work but the puller would probably break if you tried to put much tension on it to pull something bigger later on.
I hope my 'terminology' on this isn't to bad to make sense of what I did.
Steve

I understand, not too crazy about cutting up the puller i just bought though. Might pick up a cheap HF one if it comes to that, thanks
 

bubinga

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wouldn't freezing the whole thing contract the whole thing?
I have heard of freezing the shaft to help the bearing slide on, sometimes heating the bearing too, but it seems like freezing the whole thing would not work.
Wish I had it here, I am sure with my harbor freight set and the arbor press we could get it apart.
 
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wiwest

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wouldn't freezing the whole thing contract the whole thing?
I have heard of freezing the shaft to help the bearing slide on, sometimes heating the bearing too, but it seems like freezing the whole thing would not work.
Wish I had it here, I am sure with my harbor freight set and the arbor press we could get it apart.

I've done installation of bearings before and thats the way i did it. I never heated the bearing just left in room temperature and froze whatever I was installing it on and it worked great.
 
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wiwest

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Okay, that's a fail...
 

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454ragtop

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Do you have metal working capabilities? Could you fabricate a couple longer legs for your puller?
Jim
 
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wiwest

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I have basic metal working tools. Welder and grinder. the length isnt the issue. I cant get the legs in between the spindle and bearing. Maybe a cheap hf puller and grind it down? I'm open to suggestions. Tiggi suggested welding pipe to it and pulling it that way but cant wrap my head around that either
 

tiggi

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I have basic metal working tools. Welder and grinder. the length isnt the issue. I cant get the legs in between the spindle and bearing. Maybe a cheap hf puller and grind it down? I'm open to suggestions. Tiggi suggested welding pipe to it and pulling it that way but cant wrap my head around that either

Do you have piece of pipe, square tubing, angle iron, pretty much anything that can touch outer edge of the bearing. It doesn't have to be long, even better if it's shorter then the shaft. Tack weld that piece to the bearing in couple of spots. Secure the piece you welded either in the vice or with some clamps. Tap the shaft with a hammer to push it out of the bearing.
 

454ragtop

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I have basic metal working tools. Welder and grinder. the length isnt the issue. I cant get the legs in between the spindle and bearing. Maybe a cheap hf puller and grind it down? I'm open to suggestions. Tiggi suggested welding pipe to it and pulling it that way but cant wrap my head around that either

Looks like straight leg with a small hook on the bottom would do the trick. Can wrap a hose clamp around the legs to keep them from kicking out.
 
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wiwest

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Do you have piece of pipe, square tubing, angle iron, pretty much anything that can touch outer edge of the bearing. It doesn't have to be long, even better if it's shorter then the shaft. Tack weld that piece to the bearing in couple of spots. Secure the piece you welded either in the vice or with some clamps. Tap the shaft with a hammer to push it out of the bearing.

Perfect! I'll tackle it tomorrow. Appreciate all the help guys!
 
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wiwest

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Should change the name of the thread to, The Complete Idiots Guide to Restoring a Drill Press
 
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wiwest

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you're getting ahead of yourself, we're still working on the bearing j/k :lol_hitti

Very very true, lol.
Got the bearing off. Welded a piece of angle iron and pounded in down an inch or so till the weld broke. The puller was able to finish the job from there. Went down to a local bearing shop and picked up the larger bearings but hit the brakes on the quill bearings. $37.95 each! I'm all about supporting local business but I have my limits as well. Where do you guys usually order them from? 6202 with the "special" 5/8 bore. Thanks, looks like that's all the progress we'll have for this weekend.
 

tiggi

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For materials like that I do mostly zoro.com or mcmaster.com. There are plenty of other places, just google it. I prefer zoro.com, their shipping is very fast, prices are pretty good and I never have any issues with orders.
Good job on the bearing, now you're officially restoring lol
 

bubinga

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i think there are a few of those 5/8" bearings on e bay.
Not sure of the quality.
A lot of the guys from OWWM call Accurate bearing.
They are pretty reasonable on shipping too. Usually about $4.00 or $5.00 shipping.


edit,
This Amazon review was of interest.
( $15.78 & FREE Shipping on orders over $35.)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BBKJGQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Verified Purchase Used these to rebuild the arbor of an old Craftsman table saw. Gave the saw a new lease on life. These bearing have a 5/8" bore, which is what's needed for the older Craftsman, USA made saws, which were built before the metric system became prevalent in this country. A standard 6202 bearing has a 15mm bore, which is too small.

Edit
Heres 2 for about $10.00 shipped on e bay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6202-2RS-5-8-Radial-Ball-Bearing-5-8-Bore-/170691037076

Edit
2 for $4.19 shipped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231025073180?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
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wiwest

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edit,
This Amazon review was of interest.
( $15.78 & FREE Shipping on orders over $35.)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BBKJGQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Verified Purchase Used these to rebuild the arbor of an old Craftsman table saw. Gave the saw a new lease on life. These bearing have a 5/8" bore, which is what's needed for the older Craftsman, USA made saws, which were built before the metric system became prevalent in this country. A standard 6202 bearing has a 15mm bore, which is too small.



Went with this based of the review itself. Guy knows what he's talking about. Even if the bearings take a **** 10 years from now it'll be worth it.
 

Faisal

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Oct 18, 2014
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:thumbup:hi

really nice find wooooow

try to use Straight legs puller ,i am sure it will do the job
MtmKj1D.jpg



or the hard way ,you can weld your puller like the picture

H0mXlpf.jpg



good luck
 
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wiwest

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The quill bearings came in today. Seem to be nice quality and are actually smoother then the other set I got from my local bearing store. Reassemble went pretty smooth. I had to strip the paint from the inside of the housing in certain spots because I didn't mask them off. I painted the motor plate and mount today so after a day or two I'll get the motor back on. Rustoleum is awesome but takes forever to cure. Still need to pick up a belt from HF too. I wasn't going for showroom quality but I had fun with this project. Thanks to everyone for all the help. I find myself spending a lot of time on craigslist, lol. I've got the bug! Hit the swap meet today but didn't really see anything I had to have (don't really know what I'm looking for either). Really hoping this guy is still available come payday.
 

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wiwest

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pics...
 

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tiggi

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Looking good. What color did you use?

Funny thing, I had same issue with a bearing last night. I was restoring a motor for radial arm saw and one of the bearings did not want to come off. So I did what I suggested to you, made a puller and weld it to a bearing.
The nut gets welded over one of the holes, the tube is welded under the hole and onto the bearing. Then you use the bolt like you would in regular puller.
attachment.php
 

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wiwest

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Very nice, Now I can make one with a running drill press! For the missing key, Jacobs Part No. 3651?
 
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wiwest

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Paint is Rustoleum "Universal Hammered" Main color is Aged Bronze, accent color on motor is Brown. Thanks
 

HarryJM

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Mar 11, 2015
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Greensboro, NC
Hey everyone,

Just joined this forum and really enjoying reading this thread as I just missed the chance to buy a 150 on CL for $75. Looking forward to seeing pics of the finished rebuild.

Harry
 
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