Another electrical connector ID request

[Radio Flyer]

Can anyone help me ID this connector/terminal? The OE is of no help. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[DGersic]

What does the front end of it look like?

 

[BurtEggley]

I'd start here. Look at the drawings if you see one close. https://www.digikey.com/en/products...=N4IgTCBcDaIKwAIAOBLAdggxgezWgppgC7YBOIAugL5A

 

[inphx]

does that mate onto the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) is my guess by teh pin type. Search for PCB Card edge connector.

 

[DGersic]

Depending on what that plugs in to, you may not need to match it exactly. Something with the right pin spacing that fits in the hole could work ok.

 

[BurtEggley]

for google lens

 

[Radio Flyer]

does that mate onto the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) is my guess by teh pin type. Search for PCB Card edge connector.

Yes! “Card edge connector” is the magic search term. Now to sift through 697,000 varieties.

 

[Radio Flyer]

What does the front end of it look like?

 

[Radio Flyer]

I was able to ID the connector cavity as a Delphi 08900655, but not the treminals.

 

[Radio Flyer]

does that mate onto the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) is my guess by teh pin type. Search for PCB Card edge connector.

 

[dave*99]

Lots of Delphi pin assortments in eBay

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[whateg01]

Lots of Delphi pin assortments in eBay

Pardon Our Interruption...

Closest in that pic seems to be this. It's not the same though.

 

[Radio Flyer]

Closest in that pic seems to be this. It's not the same though.

I spotted that one too, it’s a teaser.

 

[Radio Flyer]

My first attempt was to build up with some solder, in hopes to create a better contact area. But it didn’t work. Now I’m thinking of soldering some wire directly to the board and doing away with the connector completely.

 

[whateg01]

My first attempt was to build up with some solder, in hopes to create a better contact area. But it didn’t work. Now I’m thinking of soldering some wire directly to the board and doing away with the connector completely.

I've been known to do that, adding a more readily available connector a few inches away.

 

[BurtEggley]

The connector and terminals were never the issue? The PCB was worn out? I missed that. Thought this was about replacing the terminals and connector.

That board is pretty basic and it would not be all that hard to duplicate a new one, tin it and swap or duplicate components. Also there are places that sell replacement adhesive pads that can be glued on and soldered to. There are also businesses that do that repair that sort of thing if you need that assistance.

 

[whateg01]

The connector and terminals were never the issue? The PCB was worn out? I missed that. Thought this was about replacing the terminals and connector.

Where did you get that? On the old molex connectors at with, we would pull the crimp pins, scrub then with an eraser, spray some contact protector and reassemble. I would expect the connector to be more of an issue than the traces/contact on the board

 

[dave*99]

Where did you get that? On the old molex connectors at with, we would pull the crimp pins, scrub then with an eraser, spray some contact protector and reassemble. I would expect the connector to be more of an issue than the traces/contact on the board

Yes. I have done that many times

 

[dave*99]

A Dorman repair set could be obtained at the local auto parts store and adapted. Solder pigtails to board and splice the other wires accordingly. Provide strain relief as needed. Delphi makes similar products.

 

[Radio Flyer]

The connector and terminals were never the issue? The PCB was worn out? I missed that. Thought this was about replacing the terminals and connector.

That board is pretty basic and it would not be all that hard to duplicate a new one, tin it and swap or duplicate components. Also there are places that sell replacement adhesive pads that can be glued on and soldered to. There are also businesses that do that repair that sort of thing if you need that assistance.

So this is the long version.

The board is a low coolant module. The low coolant light was on 100 per of the time with the ignition on. Troubleshooting determined that it was a module issue. A new module was installed and the light went out. However, the light would flicker at times when going over bumps and such. I was able to duplicate it by twisting and turning connector at the module. I de-pinned the connector and squeezed the terminals to tighten up the connection, with no real change. I then tried to add some thickness to the solder on the board. No change there either. So I wanted to just replace the connector. And here we are…..

 

[larry4406]

So this is the long version.

The board is a low coolant module. The low coolant light was on 100 per of the time with the ignition on. Troubleshooting determined that it was a module issue. A new module was installed and the light went out. However, the light would flicker at times when going over bumps and such. I was able to duplicate it by twisting and turning connector at the module. I de-pinned the connector and squeezed the terminals to tighten up the connection, with no real change. I then tried to add some thickness to the solder on the board. No change there either. So I wanted to just replace the connector. And here we are…..

It was clear to me that you simply wanted to replace the connector from the get go. Your pictures, before and after depin, and request for information was spot on. You had clearly designed wire “B” on the connector.

Reading comprehension today is sadly not what it used to be.

 

[PCustoms]

So this is the long version.

The board is a low coolant module. The low coolant light was on 100 per of the time with the ignition on. Troubleshooting determined that it was a module issue. A new module was installed and the light went out. However, the light would flicker at times when going over bumps and such. I was able to duplicate it by twisting and turning connector at the module. I de-pinned the connector and squeezed the terminals to tighten up the connection, with no real change. I then tried to add some thickness to the solder on the board. No change there either. So I wanted to just replace the connector. And here we are…..

How's the housing fit to the enclosure?

This may not be a terminal issue, especially if you've bent them tight and added thickness to the board.

 

[Radio Flyer]

How's the housing fit to the enclosure?

This may not be a terminal issue, especially if you've bent them tight and added thickness to the board.

It just sets in the bottom, and the top snaps into it. Reminds me of how a key fob gets assembled.

I had just thought with a new module, and new connector, I’d have a better chance at a good outcome.

 

[dave*99]

It just sets in the bottom, and the top snaps into it. Reminds me of how a key fob gets assembled.

I had just thought with a new module, and new connector, I’d have a better chance at a good outcome.

How about the actual sensor end ? In the coolant.

 

[Radio Flyer]

How about the actual sensor end ? In the coolant.

The sensor is brass and uses 2 eyelets. One in the center (probe) and the other screwed into a flat of the hex (ground) it was replaced due to coolant leaking from the center. So it’s new by default.

The real issue is that I can replicate the flickering light by giggling the connector on the module (board).

 

[dave*99]

The sensor is brass and uses 2 eyelets. One in the center (probe) and the other screwed into a flat of the hex (ground) it was replaced due to coolant leaking from the center. So it’s new by default.

The real issue is that I can replicate the flickering light by giggling the connector on the module (board).

Try resoldering this joint. Never know…..

 

[Radio Flyer]

Try resoldering this joint. Never know…..

I’ll check tomorrow, but I think it’s just a rivet type connection.

 

[dave*99]

I’ll check tomorrow, but I think it’s just a rivet type connection.

Probably. Sometimes it’s a ground plane bond between top and bottom traces on the board. I haven’t seen topside.
I inspect boards under a stereo microscope and find lots of stuff I can’t see with the naked eye.

 

[BurtEggley]

If this helps - I chased an intermittent relay problem a couple years ago on the fuel injection system of my late VW bus. The problem was a broken wire right where the pump power wire goes into the terminal that connects to the pump. Also chased a fuel gauge that was irregular and intermittent. Turned out to be the same problem, a broken wire from copper work hardening right at the terminal. The wires were broken right where they connected to the terminal. Intermittent drop outs. The last post by the OP reminds me of those intermittent problems. Try connecting an ohm meter between the connector wires and the PCB, and wiggle the wires to see what happens.

 

[infinite97]

As a heavy equipment tech I run into this **** all of the time. Try these websites:

Shop Automotive Connectors

Discover a wide range of automotive connectors, pigtails, and plugs at findpigtails.com. Lightning-fast search, helpful tools, and how-to repair guides available. Trusted by dealerships and insurance.

findpigtails.com

Automotive Connectors | Connector Experts

Looking for the best automotive connectors on the market? Connector Experts has an expansive collection of products. Shop for top-quality connectors.

connectorexperts.com

 

[BurtEggley]

As a heavy equipment tech I run into this **** all of the time. Try these websites:

Shop Automotive Connectors

Discover a wide range of automotive connectors, pigtails, and plugs at findpigtails.com. Lightning-fast search, helpful tools, and how-to repair guides available. Trusted by dealerships and insurance.

findpigtails.com

Automotive Connectors | Connector Experts

Looking for the best automotive connectors on the market? Connector Experts has an expansive collection of products. Shop for top-quality connectors.

connectorexperts.com

try this page infinite97 linked

Terminals

Terminals

connectorexperts.com

 

[Radio Flyer]

try this page infinite97 linked

Terminals

Terminals

connectorexperts.com

Thanks, I did find that site. This one is close, but may not work.

 

[Radio Flyer]

I’m at a point right now to just solder some wires to the board.

OEM says that a Packard 280 is what should go on there.



I sent pictures and explained that these would not fit on the board.

They responded with the 280 part numbers, as the “revised” part numbers.

Still not seeing how this would work.

 

[BurtEggley]

ask them to send you a link to an image of the connector they use. Maybe their 280 is different than yours. You can also link this thread to them or just the images.