Another Harbor Freight toolbox workbench

[garrett1812]

I am looking to build a Harbor Freight US General toolbox workbench. I have seen plenty on this forum, but have a few questions on construction. I am building with lumber, as I don't know how to weld. The bench will be L shaped with one side 108" with a 44" and 18" box, and a 68" side with one 44" box. Corner will be open for a seating position. Tops are 25" deep birch butcher block countertop. This will be for around the house type work. Not setting fine blocks on it or anything hung of that nature.

The bench will be on the concrete garage floor. Should I use pressure treated 2x4w for the base? For the entire thing? I hear bad things about using pressure treated indoors, especially if it's new from the store and not seasoned (as would be my case, did not think to buy this months ago).

Any design tips? Not sure how much support to have under countertop, how to attach uprights, etc. not sure yet if I will leave the casters on the toolboxes, or lay down a 2x4 for them to sit on. Need to check overall height. Also would depend on if the countertop should go right over top of the toolbox, or needs more support.

First pic is the corner the bench will go into. The two attached images are two I saved for reference later. Do these offer enough support for the countertop above, or should I build something like in the second thumbnail pic?

 

[jetnow1]

Do not use pt lumber against metal toolbox. Regular lumber will last almost forever if kept dry, put a strip of something water proof against the concrete
to stop water migration. I put a piece of roof shingle under the stairs in my garage.

 

[Scott H in Wheaton]

I got real simple with mine. Didn't want to analyze it to death or spend so much time planning and building that I never get around to using it.

I have three 44" boxes in a row.

Removed the wheels and used regular 2x4 laid on side so the metal boxes were not directly in contact with the floor.

Set two 8' sections of Menard's butcher block slabs on top.
I ripped 4.5" off the slab to make them 19.5" (18.5" toolbox plus 1" overhang)
I used the cutoff pieces as a backsplash
3 coats of Boiled Linseed Oil

 

[matt_i]

I would try to source some metal strapping (pallet banding) and nail it in an "X" configuration in the very back. This will do a lot to keep it from racking/swaying, which is the one downfall of wood over welded metal joints.

I would try to integrate some kind of adjustable "foot" like a leveling mount, for each leg. This way you can adjust the level of the plane on top as well as conform to any irregularity in the concrete floor. This would also prevent creep of moisture from the concrete into the wood.

 

[Shootinok]

The boxes are beasts and can support a lot of weight, but you may want to add something on top to fill the space between your top and the sides of the box. I simply cut a piece of plywood on mine that fit the top of the box. Then my top is fully supported by the box.
On the bottom, the casters are strong. I replaced the fronts but left the back ones there as you can't see them anyway.

Hope your build is enjoyable- keep the progress photos coming.

 

[850xpeps]

Pressure treated lumber will eat metal....... like mentioned just slip some shingles under wood to cement. Poly will trap moisture so don’t use that.

 

[cheechi]

if you already have PT lumber you can use it, and use plastic sheeting between it and the tool chest. Or you can use plastic sheeting between concrete and standard lumber. You can use a heavy duty contractor trash bag if you don't have anything else.

 

[garrett1812]

What about composite decking boards to make up the bottom layer?

 

[Mr_B]

I have 2 old cabinets that been laying on 2x4s for 3 decades and it ain't eaten the steal lol.
wax, fluid film or krown on underside of boxes would be good long term .
Was a thread on here with husky boxes done in a wood framed bench, was pretty sweet end result. looks better with some framing and helps keep everything true and square .

 

[chaosracing]

I have 2 old cabinets that been laying on 2x4s for 3 decades and it ain't eaten the steal lol.
wax, fluid film or krown on underside of boxes would be good long term .
Was a thread on here with husky boxes done in a wood framed bench, was pretty sweet end result. looks better with some framing and helps keep everything true and square .

The old PT lumber used mainly arsenic in it. The new stuff uses alkaline copper quaternary and that will eat thru metal due to electrolysis. It occurs more rapidly in wet or damp environments.

I would just use normal 2x4 lumber and put a separation sheet between your concrete and wood.

 

[bottom feeder]

You could use redwood for the pieces that touch the floor as well. The bearing wall in my basement that contacts the concrete floor has a redwood bottom plate.

For the garage, I'd probably just use regular lumber unless you have a known moisture problem.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

When I built a wood constructed workbench I used old tire tread on the bottom of the legs (4X4).

After a move, I had newer/bigger workbenches built using metal leg/sanctions with adj feet. If you're sticking with the wood route, consider "overall" hgt. But I wouldn't be in a big hurry to remove the casters.

 

[RAS61]

I built my own using two 2x4's for legs (allows for easy lap joints to support stringers), 2x6 stringers, and 3/4" plywood for top and bottom shelf. I have it on locking casters so I can easily move if I want, and it's off the floor so no worries about rotting, although I also primed and painted it with some old exterior trim paint I had lying around. Looks a lot like the one in the OP's picture, works great.

 

[garrett1812]

Got a good start on the bench today. Attached a ledger board to the walls and then built only two legs. Once the tops are tied together they will actually be quite strong. But will add a third leg of necessary. I was talked in to not removing the casters from the toolboxes, which put the work surface height at 42". Will try it for a while and see if it's too tall or not.

 

[John in OH]

Got a good start on the bench today. Attached a ledger board to the walls and then built only two legs. Once the tops are tied together they will actually be quite strong. But will add a third leg of necessary. I was talked in to not removing the casters from the toolboxes, which put the work surface height at 42". Will try it for a while and see if it's too tall or not.

Lookin' good! Where did you get your butcher block tops?

 

[garrett1812]

Menards. Picked then up as my only up Black Friday purchase. They are somewhat cupped, so hoping they will level out soon so I can finish them and secure them down. Not sure yet how to finish and if I should stain or not.

 

[theundermount]

Got a good start on the bench today. Attached a ledger board to the walls and then built only two legs. Once the tops are tied together they will actually be quite strong. But will add a third leg of necessary. I was talked in to not removing the casters from the toolboxes, which put the work surface height at 42". Will try it for a while and see if it's too tall or not.

I love the center upper shelf you made for your drills looks great black

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[manwithtools]

I don't think he made that center shelf, looks like the Kobalt Charging Station:

http://toolguyd.com/kobalt-charging-station-and-tool-storage-wall-cabinet/

 

[cheechi]

What about composite decking boards to make up the bottom layer?

I asked a guy at lowes who said he knew the Trex products pretty well and said these don't have the same limitation as pt wood for eating through metal, and further said that some people have done built in grills have set the steel cabinet/chassis onto the Trex without issue. He said structurally the weight wouldn't be an issue. I asked him as well about the PVC boards that Lowes has, he didn't know enough about those to give any specifics.

May not be directly from Trex but it's better than nothing. I think I may incorporate it into my design in the upcoming year.

 

[chaosracing]

I asked a guy at lowes who said he knew the Trex products pretty well and said these don't have the same limitation as pt wood for eating through metal, and further said that some people have done built in grills have set the steel cabinet/chassis onto the Trex without issue. He said structurally the weight wouldn't be an issue. I asked him as well about the PVC boards that Lowes has, he didn't know enough about those to give any specifics.

May not be directly from Trex but it's better than nothing. I think I may incorporate it into my design in the upcoming year.

There are no issues using TREX material or similar or the PVC material either. It just comes down to how much you want to spend.

 

[ponjohn]

I got real simple with mine. Didn't want to analyze it to death or spend so much time planning and building that I never get around to using it.

I have three 44" boxes in a row.

Removed the wheels and used regular 2x4 laid on side so the metal boxes were not directly in contact with the floor.

Set two 8' sections of Menard's butcher block slabs on top.
I ripped 4.5" off the slab to make them 19.5" (18.5" toolbox plus 1" overhang)
I used the cutoff pieces as a backsplash
3 coats of Boiled Linseed Oil

Scott - how did you securely anchor the boxes so the don't move?

 

[Crossfire05]

Pressure treated lumber will eat metal....... like mentioned just slip some shingles under wood to cement. Poly will trap moisture so don’t use that.

I never knew this. Is it the copper in treated lumber causing a reaction with other metals? I find it interesting that steel nails and anchor bolts are commonly used in treated lumber. Is moisture necessary for a reaction?

 

[tarmy]

These are Tool Vault...about 600 lbs each. I built steel frames under them...redheaded those in...then bolted boxes to the frame. Earthquake country here. The wood that shows at the bottom in the photo is added so I could add a wood trim bottom piece to trim out...

The other photos are just some ideas for you guys...I wanted to limit the height but have a stiff top...so welded up steel frame on top as well. All bolted together and then trimmed out in last photos...

 

[ponjohn]

These are Tool Vault...about 600 lbs each. I built steel frames under them...redheaded those in...then bolted boxes to the frame. Earthquake country here. The wood that shows at the bottom in the photo is added so I could add a wood trim bottom piece to trim out...

The other photos are just some ideas for you guys...I wanted to limit the height but have a stiff top...so welded up steel frame on top as well. All bolted together and then trimmed out in last photos...

Did you use 2x4 between the boxes?

 

[tarmy]

Did you use 2x4 between the boxes?

Everything is kiln dried 4x4...didn't want cracking or shrinkage of frame. I had built the original bench 10 years earlier and was retrofitting the boxes in. I have a third box that will be added into this set up when I retire...

 

[SALIV8]

These are Tool Vault...about 600 lbs each. I built steel frames under them...redheaded those in...then bolted boxes to the frame. Earthquake country here. The wood that shows at the bottom in the photo is added so I could add a wood trim bottom piece to trim out...

The other photos are just some ideas for you guys...I wanted to limit the height but have a stiff top...so welded up steel frame on top as well. All bolted together and then trimmed out in last photos...

 

[850xpeps]

I never knew this. Is it the copper in treated lumber causing a reaction with other metals? I find it interesting that steel nails and anchor bolts are commonly used in treated lumber. Is moisture necessary for a reaction?

Acq contains more copper I guess and this speeds up the process. We used to build parapet walls for roofers with treated lumber attached to steel studs until about 8 years ago the roofers would not warranty a roof with treated lumber. And I’ve pulled up decks as young as a year old and seen significant damage to the screws to the point where they were almost rotted through. I’m sure water plays a part but not sure it is part of the copper corrosion.

When attaching treated you should use fasteners rated for acq. Usually coated screws. Stainless screws work as well I believe.

Bolting treated lumber down with wedge anchors isn’t as big a deal as there is lots of material there.

 

[garrett1812]

Finally put on some tung oil. Used a darkened tung oil. Turned out darker than I anticipated but still looks nice.

 

[NIKOLASERBIA]

Hello,

I am in the process of building a work bench possibly with us general tool boxes. I went to a restaurant supply store in Sacramento, ca. and was able to purchase a stainless steel top for 167.00. the dimensions are 24 inches wide x 72 inches. long. I think this is a great price. Go to restaurant supply stores. they may also have used stuff.

 

[Crossfire05]

Acq contains more copper I guess and this speeds up the process. We used to build parapet walls for roofers with treated lumber attached to steel studs until about 8 years ago the roofers would not warranty a roof with treated lumber. And I’ve pulled up decks as young as a year old and seen significant damage to the screws to the point where they were almost rotted through. I’m sure water plays a part but not sure it is part of the copper corrosion.

When attaching treated you should use fasteners rated for acq. Usually coated screws. Stainless screws work as well I believe.

Bolting treated lumber down with wedge anchors isn’t as big a deal as there is lots of material there.

Makes sense. Also explains a lot of the problems I saw ten years ago in decking.

 

[eastbaysubaru]

These are Tool Vault...about 600 lbs each. I built steel frames under them...redheaded those in...then bolted boxes to the frame. Earthquake country here. The wood that shows at the bottom in the photo is added so I could add a wood trim bottom piece to trim out...

The other photos are just some ideas for you guys...I wanted to limit the height but have a stiff top...so welded up steel frame on top as well. All bolted together and then trimmed out in last photos...

What plier storage rack (red) are you using on your pegboard. That looks much better than the plier drawer I've got going on. I've tried a number of solutions but haven't found one that I like yet.

-Brian

 

[tarmy]

What plier storage rack (red) are you using on your pegboard. That looks much better than the plier drawer I've got going on. I've tried a number of solutions but haven't found one that I like yet.

-Brian

Plywork plr14...the pliersrack II....check amazon...20 bucks. I love them.