Another heater sizing post

[Angry Johnny]

New here:


Trying to figure out proper heater size for my shop.
I live in Northwest WY (Cody) and regular temps below zero are common in the winter, along with strong winds.

Shop is 30 x 45 with 14 foot walls and (2) 36 x36 dual pane, but older windows.
There are 2 uninsulated (but will be insulated) roll up doors that are 10 x 8 and 12 x 8 in size.
It is pole barn style with steel siding. I am currnetly building framework and insulating the walls with R19 batts.
Not quite sure if I will insulate the roof yet, as it is pretty high up there, and I have already spent plenty of $$$ on this shop on the inside.

Looking at Maxx and Hot Dawg heaters in the 125,000 BTU range. Do you all think that is appropriate size for this shop to keep it at around 50/60 degrees?
I plan on running some fans to keep the air circulating. I was thinking oversize on the heater would be ok, but after reading about short cycling, not being good, I am re-thinking about going too large.

I attached a pic of what is going on inside the shop to give you an idea what is going on inside. I am building a 15 x 22 spray booth, along with a 15 x15 man cave/office.

Thanks in advance

 

[Shop Specialties]

Get everything insulated and sealed up good since Cody blows. Gary down at Woodward Tractor/Rental could fix you up with a scissor lift to make installing the ceiling insulation quick and safe.Then you could drop your BTU to 80-100K. You pay for insulation once for a lifetime of benefits otherwise you pay big $$$ for extra propane/NG forever.

 

[d300]

If you are looking at NG or Propane then I'll suggest calling Jay @ Home Air Direct,
[email protected], 618-967-4918. I got a very good deal on my ADP unit heater...very happy with the performance in my shop.

 

[Angry Johnny]

Thanks guys. I am looking at Natural gas. I have a 1 1/4" line to the shop.

 

[cthulu]

I have a 24x30 with 10.5 foot ceilings, r30 in the walls and ceiling with finished drywall. Two 8x8 garage doors that are un-insulated I have a 10000 watt or 35k btu electric heater that takes it from 40f to 65f in about an hour. Outside temps rarely get below 35 and the heater thermostat is at about 75% and the heater runs I would say about 50% of the time to keep those temps where they are.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200665041_200665041

I second everyone's advice on here, insulate well and replace windows (I would replace them with walls for more security) then your running costs are much lower. Seriously insulate the **** out the walls and ceilings if you want to use it in winter. You're going to need more than R30 in WI.

I like the electric as you don't have an open flame or risk of any fumes. It's more expensive operationally but I rarely use it more than 20 hours a week.

I have a thread on insulating my pole barn below, I put in used foam sheets about 5inches thick the more $ you spend on R value the less space it takes up. It's good for polebarns with studded walls as it gives you a vapor barrier as well as insulation. I didn't put insulation directly in contact with the metal as you can get some condensation from what I've read that's why there is an air barrier and vapor barrier between insulation and wall. The air barrier goes up the walls into the vented attic the pole barn now has.


Hope this helps man.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=349135

 

[Angry Johnny]

I have already started insulating with the R19, so it's going to have to stay at this point. I do plan to do drywall as well. The R19 doesn't quite contact the metal siding, so airflow around that area should be good, I hope.
The air here is pretty dry in the winter, so hoping condensation isn't an issue. We normally run around 20 to 30% humiditiy most of the time.
As far as windows, I might replace with newer dual panes, but I don't need the security of doing solid walls. I do like some natural light to come through.