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Another Lift Positioning Question

LifeLongWNYer

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Hi folks. I've been a member here for a little while and "thought" I knew the answer to this question, but not I want to DOUBLE check.

I thought many of the comments on lifts said something to the effect that the absolute minimum height for the ceiling to be AFF was 12'. So, I figured I would place my ceiling at 13', just to give me a cushion, and so when I select my lift model, I am not precluded from one that I want, because it won't fit nicely.

So today, my builder asked about the 13' ceiling, and when I gave him my reasoning, he told me that 12' is "more than enough." He said the extra foot, adds "a lot" to the cost. So, what say everyone?

He seems pretty good in all other ways, I hope his comments today don't force me to exclude him as a builder. He is pretty popular around here, but I am wondering about the 12' comment.



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LifeLongWNYer

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That is one reason for my thoughts about the higher ceiling. I have not decided what lift to buy.

Probably the largest vehicle I'll work on is a Sierra 1500. However, I am short, so the hoist need not lift the vehicles really high.



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Lucid Moments

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The other thing to consider is what kind of ceiling you are going to have on the inside. I went with a 14' height at the eaves, but my ceiling is vaulted (not really but I don't know a better way to describe it) so with the lift 12' from the wall it is probably nearly 20' above the lift posts.

TBH 12' is probably fine.
 

Ray916MN

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Orono, MN
12' should be fine, assuming the garage door or lights aren't going to sit over the lift. A full size truck is ~82" tall. 144"(12')-82"= 62" An F150 has 9" of ground clearance, so at full lift you'd get 71" from the lowest point under the vehicle to the ground The ***** is to get full lift without pushing the truck into the ceiling is tricky and you lose a little having to lift above the lift locks and then dropping the lift on the locks. More practically you end up with 66" max with a full size truck on the lift. If you intend to work on taller stuff, like a full size Transit Connect or Sprinter, you need more ceiling height.
 

Ironcrow

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I'd still go with 13 feet. The builder is looking at 14 foot studs instead of 12 foot studs. Now he has to by 14 foot studs and make a cut and throw away a foot. And sheet goods, 8 feet plus one turned sideways, 4 feet, is 12. 13 feet he has to cut and piece etc. I get it.

But, how much is "a lot"?

Here's a thought: whip up a 16 inch taller CMU stem wall - 2 extra courses of $2 blocks...build a 12 foot framed garage on top of that. Everybody is happy.

Or do raised tie trusses and get your extra foot that way. Builder still does 12 foot walls he wants.
 
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DaveInHouston

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Baytown, Texas
My lift is 11’ 8” at the top. Shop has 12’ eave height, obviously higher in the middle.
 

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pbon

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12’ works pretty good, unless you are 6’6” and have a lifted Chevy Surburban, in which case you might want closer to 13’

When I had 10’6” I could lift my bmw 6’
 

Ironcrow

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A Weaver W10-HD two post overhead lift is 12'-6" tall. Or some popular Rotary lifts (and Chinese knock-offs) are 11'-9" which leaves you 3" to fit both lights and the garage door track... Or most baseplate two post lifts are considerably shorter. That's my point. Many situations can work with a 12' ceiling. Many won't. With a 13' ceiling almost ANY two post overhead lift will fit.
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
I agree on the taller stem wall. Although my garage had block walls maybe this would also apply to you. My contractor said gaining height via another 2-3 rows of block is always less expensive than building a taller stick built wall. I ended up w/ about 2.5 blocks above the floor.
 

sweetk30

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finger lakes area upstate ,ny
lift in my shop SKIMS the 12ft celing and its just drywall 5/8" thick . there is 2 holes were they cut out to install the posts and then patched in after .

i say do special trusses like others have done for that zone only and keep 12ft ext walls . or go min of 13 ft to 14 ft .

and most of the good lifts have there info on there site for all the specs .
 
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LifeLongWNYer

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Another thing I forgot to add, was relating to the length of the posts, is that I am using Permacolumns. They are a concrete piling, and the posts sit on top of them, so there is no wood to ground contact.

They extend about a foot above the floor, so ( for example ) a 12 foot ceiling only needs an 11' post.

I do "get it" about having to buy a 14' post when you need a 13' post. ..also about the layout of 4x8 sheets of wall material.

If there is any question about not having enough height for a lift with a 12' ceiling clearance, I'd rather go with a 13' ceiling. As so many of you guys have said, "you get one chance to make it right..."




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jabelding

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2nd on the stem wall, I had it poured into my foundation 8" stem wall all the way around. + 12' studs + one bottom plate + 2 top plates just shy of 13' if you install 1/2 in sheeting on bottom of your trusses for ceiling you will be at exactly 13'. Also nice thing about stem wall is it is easier to hose out garage if needed and much better for fire protection with welding slag and sparks no chance for them to get caught in a corner and starting wall on fire.
 

Handyandy23

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I've got a 2 post base plate lift. The columns are about 9 feet tall and at full lift it gives a little over 6 feet clearance underneath.

In my old garage I had just over 10 foot ceilings and I could still get my Trans Am to full lift. Half ton truck I could only get about 4-4.5 feet under, enough to work on a rolling stool.

New garage is about 12.5 feet in the middle and I can lift the same truck up with room to spare. My builder used 12 foot lumber that's sitting on top of footings about 6" above ground level.

To me the 12ish feet is plenty, but as others have said you might need more with a top plate lift. Doing a pocket ceiling in the middle seems like a good compromise because you gain the space where you want it, without having to build the walls up that high.

The other thing that I'm sure you and your builder are aware of is to use a high lift garage door track. My old 10 foot garage wasn't "designed" with a lift in mind so I had regular 8 foot door tracks. I was able to stagger the lift posts so they didn't hit the tracks, but it's a PITA having to remember not to open the door when a car is up. New garage has high lift doors and it's so much nicer.
 

Jking24

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For your 1500 truck you would be fine with 12ft also worth noting is witch direction at your trusses gonna run. If their not perpendicular to the lift you could do 12 and if you get a taller lift place it in between trusses. Most pole barn guys put trusses 4ft on center so their will be a pretty good chance you can land your lift between them. If your truly set on going with more than 12 you should go with at least 14 because your gonna pay for the drop regardless
 

rslaback

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First off, there isn't really a 140 5/8" precut stud. You'll likely use full 12 foot studs which gives you 12' 4 1/2" figuring traditional plates.

If you're worried about the cost of the 14 foot studs instead of 12 I'd abandon the idea of slab on grade and pour the foundation as a frost wall and separate floor. The frost wall will give you the extra foot you want and as an added bonus makes it a bunch easier to slope the floor.
 
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LifeLongWNYer

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From the comments, it appears that 12' is okay sometimes, but not always.

I don't know about the cost, although I AM fairly certain it would cost more. The builders haven't gotten back with their prices yet, but when they do, I'll ask for the cost to add a foot. We'll see what they say.

I really don't want to spend a small fortune on a building, then be forced into a lift that I really don't want.

Thanks all, I appreciate your insight. Too much information is always better than ot enough.




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Handyandy23

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Wouldn't it make the most sense to do your research on lifts now and figure out what style / model you want? Then you can make sure you get the garage built how you need it.

Sure a 13-14 ft ceiling gives you more options, but if you end up picking a base plate model that doesn't need the extra foot, you're paying a lot of extra money for extra space you're not using.

And as someone else pointed out, 12 ft lumber with top plates and base plate gives you closer to 12'6". There aren't too many 2 post lift models you'd need more than that.

Either way though, seems prudent to make that choice now, before spending thousands for an extra foot.
 
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LifeLongWNYer

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Okay, HandyAndy, you got caught me goofing off on the job. I had so many decisions on the building, I was holding off on making a lift model decision, so I wanted to prepare for anything. I guess you are right, I should pick my lift now, then build for THAT model.


Thanks,




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autoxr1

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Mar 21, 2016
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Northern Wisconsin
First off, there isn't really a 140 5/8" precut stud. You'll likely use full 12 foot studs which gives you 12' 4 1/2" figuring traditional plates.

This is exactly what I did in my stick-framed garage and ended up with a ceiling height at 12'-4" after drywall. I'm now choosing my lift and all I have looked at in the $2,000 - 3,000 price range come in at 12'-0 or less (some such as Weaver W10-HD and W-PRO10 have an option of assembling 6-8" higher). I think 12' studs are fine, either with or without the extra concrete block course.
 

Bubba2020

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I set 2x6x10’ walls on top of 4 course of block totaling 12’ 8” ceiling. Plenty for a 4 post extra tall, 78” walk under with a Dodge Ram lifted.
 

Jim 68 cuda

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Aug 23, 2016
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Virginia
I went with 12' high walls on top of the row of cinder blocks at the base (makes it about 12' 8" at the sides). The center of my ceiling ended up being about 16'. My two post lift is about 12' tall, but for the few times that trucks that get put on the lift, I kind of wish I had gone with the 14' tall version of the same Rotary lift. In my case, the 14' would have fit, but would be real close to the ceiling fan (close enough that a vehicle's antenna might hit the fan).
 

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