Another Mr Heater Thread!

[70RSCamaro]

Hi guys

I hang around a lot but don't post much. I'm guessing that this one is driven by a need for reassurance as much as anything else.

Getting ready to finish my Mr Heater 45K install in my 36 by 24 garage. I need to run the gas line from the heater, outside the garage, and down the wall and cap it off for a propane tank install later. Also need to install the horizontal vent pipe, through the wall and then 90 degree it up above the roof line. I'm as handy as the next guy and reasonably good with tools, (I'm doing all the wiring, insulation , and drywall myself) but for some reason gas lines and venting have me hiding in the corner. I understand all the rules and code for the install, but....

I was hoping to hear from some of you guys that have done this yourselves, how hard was it to do right. I just need someone to give me a swift kick to get me jump started.

thanks

 

[dave67fd]

70RS,
If you have any doubts you should have a proffessional do the install. It's not worth the money you save to have the chance it could all go up in smoke or worse.

I will assume that your local codes allow you to do it yourself? Are you planning on Black iron or copper? If black iron, you will need to be experienced in cutting, threading and sealing or does town codes specify? My town requires it to be installed by a licensed agency and has to be black iron pipe for all new installs. Requires permit and to be inspected by the town FD.

 

[BwBrown]

It's not rocket science. Use black iron pipe. 1/2" line might be plenty, but best check with your gas company - longer runs require larger pipe, they'll be happy to steer you in the right direction.

I used to be scared of iron pipe, but Lowes has it in enough different lengths, custom threading should not be necessary.

Copper can be used, but double flare fittings and heavy ferrules are needed. Thin ferrules, single flare, and compression fittings are not allowed. Don't know about soldering joints, sure wouldn't want to be repair-soldering on pipes that have already had gas in them.

Basic rules: Use black iron pipe (galvanized pipe flakes off), and plenty of pipe dope. Teflon tape works, but use the yellow, not white. Get things plenty tight. The gas company should do a leak-down test prior to making the final connection. Terminate with a shut-off and use an approved flex line to the heater.

(I just passed the scrutiny of the gas inspection for two 75k units.)

 

[70RSCamaro]

Thanks guys, appreciate the comments.

 

[dankicksass]

Home Depot does custom length cuts of black pipe with free threading. There's also PEX gas line but not at the big box stores. Don't forget to check for leaks with a colored soapy solution.

 

[cowboyjosh]

Home Depot does custom length cuts of black pipe with free threading. There's also PEX gas line but not at the big box stores. Don't forget to check for leaks with a colored soapy solution.

The flex gas line is called CSST, if its the yellow jacketed version its inferior, however i do like the new black jacketed Counterstrike and Flashpoint CSST which is more resistent to lightning damage then the yellow jacketed ****.

 

[lessersivad]

It's not rocket science. Use black iron pipe. 1/2" line might be plenty, but best check with your gas company - longer runs require larger pipe, they'll be happy to steer you in the right direction.

I used to be scared of iron pipe, but Lowes has it in enough different lengths, custom threading should not be necessary.

Copper can be used, but double flare fittings and heavy ferrules are needed. Thin ferrules, single flare, and compression fittings are not allowed. Don't know about soldering joints, sure wouldn't want to be repair-soldering on pipes that have already had gas in them.

Basic rules: Use black iron pipe (galvanized pipe flakes off), and plenty of pipe dope. Teflon tape works, but use the yellow, not white. Get things plenty tight. The gas company should do a leak-down test prior to making the final connection. Terminate with a shut-off and use an approved flex line to the heater.

(I just passed the scrutiny of the gas inspection for two 75k units.)

The last I knew, single flare copper was acceptable. It MAY vary from state to state though. I have only seen copper used from the tank to the low pressure regulator on the side of the building which is attached to black pipe leading into the building.

The gas pipe being run should only see approx. 10-15 inches of water column pressure but it does need to be leak free.

You could run the pipe and perform your own "leak test" by capping both ends and installing an air fitting into the bottom of the "T" sediment drop.

Simply pressure the pipe and use soapy water to check for leaks.

Soap the fittings and walk away for a few minutes. By that time if there is any leaks they should show up as foam. If there is, tighten and retest.

Just my 2¢.

Hope this helps.