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Another old Sears Jack

jawnd393

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Valparaiso, IN
On a drive from Florida back home to Indiana, I stopped and picked up this jack, from a Atlanta craigslist seller for $40.
It's a Sears 727.12100. I think it's a Blackhawk. Anybody know what Blackhawk model it could be.
It's different from my other Sears jack which is like a Blackhawk SJ-2

http://www.photoshop.com/users/johnd393/assets/a54d5b5e7dda4fefb9830065b92ffec0[/url]

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[url]http://www.photoshop.com/users/johnd393/assets/f49238a235b24452ba0ea7d72d90d8f9[/url]
 
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jawnd393

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I thought it was different. There's a sheet metal cover on the front and back that makes it look a little different. The back edge of the side plates is square on one and angled on the other. The front wheels are wider. The part number on a tag on the power unit is K680900. But, the number on the casting is the same. I just put the 2 sears jacks side by side. On one jack the handle stops at full up. On the other it will continue to pump with decreased resistance. Other than that they appear identical. Here is the parts drawing from the Sears manual for my other jack. (Picture added to first post.)You can see the different shape of the side plate.
f49238a235b24452ba0ea7d72d90d8f9
 
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jawnd393

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Sears 727.12100 vs 272.12102
I took it apart cus it leaks down. The plastic piston cup was disintegrated just like my other sears jack. I wondered how the up limit worked. There is a groove in the ram with a slightly oversized ring that hits the endcap at full up. The ring presses on a valve down the center of the ram.
Another difference in these 2 similar jack is the pump body has a end cap that allows pulling out the plunger. I've not found a parts blowup showing this version of these parts

IMAG0095.jpg

JohnD
 

CRTDI

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I believe the Blackhawk model number would be SJ-1 (1-1/4 Ton) or SJ-2 (1-1/2 Ton).
 
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buick64203

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Interesting. I have a Blackhawk SJ-2. I inhereted it from my late uncle. Best jack I ever owned. I have a couple and I always grab this one first. So these were sold through Sears back in the day? That would make sense as my uncle was a big Sears guy.
 

CRTDI

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Interesting...would it be safe to say that the Sears model no. 727-12100 is a rebadged Blackhawk SJ-2 and your original jack, Sears model no. 727-12102 that you thought to be an SJ-2 is actually an SJ-1? :headscrat
 
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jawnd393

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Thank you for that page.
The 727-12100 power unit is like the one shown.
The 727-12102 power unit is like that in the SJ-1/SJ-2 parts list pdf.
Apparently it's different revisions of the SJ-2
Both of these jacks are 1-1/2 ton, the SJ-1 is 1-1/4 ton.
Johnd
Here are the same jacks wearing Blackhawk colors: :beer:

IMG_2240.jpg
 

buick64203

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Here's a couple of pics of my Blackhawk SJ-2. Best jack Ive ever owned.
 

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jawnd393

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I also have a Sears version I bought new in 74 or 75. Are parts still available for these?

Yes, Forum member Hiball sells parts. I bought from, and recommend, him.
If you search this forum, the web, and eBay there are other part sources.
Johnd
 
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jawnd393

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The nice people in Atlanta that sold me the 727.12100 jack, found and mailed the manual for it. Here's the parts blow up.
 

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goody4her

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Do you have any idea where I can get one of those wheels? Thanks for the pic, I appreciate it.
 

toolmiser

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La Crosse, WI
I have the "American" brand of that jack. I've been meaning to post it. It is a brownish gold with white. My father purchased it in about 1976. Nice jack, rated for 1 1/2 tons.
 
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georgiadave

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www.colsoncaster.com

Here is a cheap source for your caster wheels. They may be able to direct you to a retail place close to you, or sell to you by mail. Oddly enough, the wheel business is pretty big, as there are thousands of applications for metal, rubber, etc wheels of all sizes.
 

Arne73

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Here's my Sears 1 1/2 ton compared w/ a 2 ton import. I'm not certain of the Sears P/N, it's buried right now but my dad worked at Sears automotive in the 70's and it was a closeout on the last of the US jacks. It's a heavy beast but I love it.

p4200065.jpg
 

schmittr

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I need the chk valve parts shown in the above IPB. =Does anyone know the contact # for "Hiball" or another source? P/N's 65, 72, & 73.

THX! Ron
 
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jawnd393

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There's pictures of my other ones in post #8. It's pretty much identical and in the same cosmetic condition. Seller said it leaks down and he replaced some of the seals but not the main one. I wouldn't have bought it if it was missing parts or had a broken wheel or something. I've not really tested it other than pump the handle and see if it starts to go up. I want to find a new main seal for it, but I'm not in a hurry to work on it.

I'm working on the brakes of my daily driver Chevy Malibu, Having trouble getting a hose connection to not leak, and once that's done I'm trying to rebuild the front suspension of a Chevy Trailblazer RWD. It's my first SUV ever. In pretty good shape for the $1250 I gave for it.
 

BlakeTheCarGuy

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There's pictures of my other ones in post #8. It's pretty much identical and in the same cosmetic condition. Seller said it leaks down and he replaced some of the seals but not the main one. I wouldn't have bought it if it was missing parts or had a broken wheel or something. I've not really tested it other than pump the handle and see if it starts to go up. I want to find a new main seal for it, but I'm not in a hurry to work on it.

I'm working on the brakes of my daily driver Chevy Malibu, Having trouble getting a hose connection to not leak, and once that's done I'm trying to rebuild the front suspension of a Chevy Trailblazer RWD. It's my first SUV ever. In pretty good shape for the $1250 I gave for it.



Cool never had to take a jack apart or rebuild one lol also never actually seen a used jack for sale either. At work we have the Daytona ones from Harbor Freight and they are working great I have the same one at home. When they start to leak the boss just replaces them. And congratulations on the cars man I’ve got 7 cars and never will stop working on them lol.


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jawnd393

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These are American made jacks. There is a solid feel and smoothness of function that is superior to many. I have a Harbor Freight jack which is maybe a cheaper one than the Daytona ones. It is hard to regulate the drop if you want to lower it slowly or just a little. The one good thing about the HF jack is it weighs about half as much if I want to throw it in the car and take it somewhere. It's the orange on in the pix at post #8.
 
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BlakeTheCarGuy

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These are American made jacks. There is a solid feel and smoothness of function that is superior to many. I have a Harbor Freight jack which is maybe a cheaper one than the Daytona ones. It is hard to regulate the drop if you want to lower it slowly or just a little. The one good thing about the HF jack is it weighs about half as much if I want to throw it in the car and take it somewhere. It's the orange on in the pix at post #8.



That’s an old school Harbor Freight one. I will agree it is hard to drop it a small amount. The Daytona are very heavy the Pittsburgh jacks are pretty light especially the aluminum racing ones. If I would have known that Craftsman and Sears would of been going down a long time ago I would have bought some of those older jacks I do have a Craftsman trolley jack that was given to me by a coworker of my dads and it’s a pretty good one USA made too. I use it as my travel one since it’s light.


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jawnd393

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Just figured it out. My HF jack is 10 years old. Was $59.95. Looks like I had paid $6 for a 1 year extended warranty.
 

Jay K

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Mar 15, 2022
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F2jacks.jpg
Left is Sears 727-12100, Right is 727-12102
You can see larger plunger diameter on the 12100.
R2jacks.jpg
The whole family
4jacks.JPG
Hello. I am looking to rebuild a 727-12102. Can you reccomand a good supplier? Thank you from Alabama.
 

sip

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I just picked one of these 727.12102 jacks up to replace a stolen jack. It works, but the stroke is only on the last foot or 18 inches where it pumps. Is the driver supposed to extend further so you get more movement per stroke?
 

Hiball

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Missery
I just picked one of these 727.12102 jacks up to replace a stolen jack. It works, but the stroke is only on the last foot or 18 inches where it pumps. Is the driver supposed to extend further so you get more movement per stroke?
Not really, It’s designed to give maximum stroke when deep under a vehicle, not today’s vehicles with pinch welds/outer lift points.
 
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