Another OSB vs. Drywall--with insulation

[JackOfDiamonds]

Would it even make sense to make an insulated partition wall and sheath it with OSB? Or would the leaks at the OSB seams defeat the point?

I have a 2-car garage with 2 roll up doors and a post in the middle.

I'm fixing to turn one bay into a shop by framing a 2x4 wall right down the middle, swallowing the post in the process. I will put an exterior-type pre-hung door in the partition. I might as well insulate the partition wall so I can regulate the climate in the shop in the future (the exterior walls of the garage are already insulated.

Because I want to insulate the partition wall, that makes me think I should use drywall. Because that's all I've ever seen before. And I suppose the drywall allows you to fully seal the joints.

Drywall benefits:

• Looks like a real wall, not a homeowner hack-partition
• Deadens sound better
• Better fire block
• Better insulation because of fully sealed joints
• Fragile, will probably look beat up in a few years
• pain to hang things because you have to find studs

OSB benefits

• Same price as drywall
• Hang anything anywhere (shelves, bike hooks, etc.
• Makes a stiffer wall
• Looks ugly and leaks drafts at the joints

Now for the really crazy thinking...what about using drywall on the "house" side and OSB on the "shop" side? I also thought about installing OSB blocking between the studs under the drywall for hanging, or even putting drywall over OSB...but that would be twice the price.

 

[PoorUB]

I am one that doesn't understand the OSB love. For one, it doesn't hold screws that well. Sheetrock with a proper wall anchor is probably as strong. Plus, you can mount into the studs for the heavy stuff. I have all sorts of cabinets, a bolt rack, pegboard, and other things hanging on my sheet rocked walls with zero issues.

I would not bother with blocking, you won't need it, plus you need to know what you are hanging on the wall before the sheets go up.

My garage is all sheet rock and once in thirty years I went around and patched up some dents before painting.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

Another thing I thought of is using 5/8 drywall for more sound deadening, hanging strength, and fire block. Does that sound like a good idea?

In this crazy world, that's actually more expensive per sheet than OSB.

 

[PoorUB]

Is the sound deadening really and issue? Or fire blocking?

Is this the far bay away from the house?

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

It's the farthest bay. Sound blocking will be a benefit to block out my loud kids when I need to do tele-meetings. And should make my wife happier when I use my lathe at night

 

[Metal-Marc]

If you really want to soundproof that bay, 5/8 sheetrock instead of 1/2 sheetrock won't do squat.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

I understand it won't be soundproof, but I thought it might make a difference. 1/4 inch more gypsum should do something. I think when people really soundproof stuff they use offset studs so each side of the wall is isolated, and they also put up drywall, then a layer of special soundproof pad, then another layer of drywall on that. I'm not going to those lengths, but now that I think about it, I could use economy studs and stagger them on regular 2x4 header/footer...I wonder how much difference that would make.

 

[mogandave]

I would go drywall on the carport side and plywood (or drywall) on the shop side.

That said, before I started on a permanent partition, I would throw something up temporarily and see how I liked it.

 

[Mzungu]

I have seen a few drywalled garages with a plywood strip along the bottom 2 feet over the drywall where most of the damages seem to occur.

Air sealing an OSB partition wall is actually fairly easy, as you can use an approved seam tape from the backside during the construction on the joints and use a polyurethane caulk to picture frame the stud bays, sill plate, and top plates. If you put in blocking centered at 4' between the studs you can forget the tape and just picture frame the stud bays with caulk. On the side that shows, caulk the joints and use a vapor retarder paint and you are all good.

For an example my own exterior garage walls I am using plywood inside and out. Outside has 1/2 ply with 3m taped seams, tyvek, 1.5" comfortboard, horizontal furring, and then vertical metal siding. Interior - caulking on stud bays, and plates, r23 mineral wool, 6mm vapour barrier, then 1/2" painted plywood.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

I would go drywall on the carport side and plywood (or drywall) on the shop side.

That said, before I started on a permanent partition, I would throw something up temporarily and see how I liked it.

What kind of temporary would you suggest? I think the whole wall, insulated and door and everything, might cost me $1000. I had a couple ideas for temporary partition using paneling or metal roof panels, but they added up to a few hundred, and I would have to eat that if I go back and want to make it permanent.

By the way, I was going to use a regular 2x4 as a bottom plate and use Tapcon screws into the slab. Should I use PT or a layer of plastic, or both?

One thing I might do is frame it using deck screws into the existing ceiling/walls (for easy removal), and just screw up drywall on the house side (not even mud it at first), and hang a curtain in the door opening. That would still be fairly easy to reverse, just about as cheap as any other partition, and I could always go back and mud+paint, insulate, and put on the garage sheathing if I decide to keep it. My concern is that if I do that, these things tend to go unfinished forever once I start using the space and wanting to hang things up etc.

 

[Sweetcorn]

I'll go against the grain here and say my preference is OSB. Properly fit, primed, and painted OSB can look pretty good.

If you are going for more of a showroom than anything else, you should do drywall. If you want to put the effort in to make it look nice and have something that's reasonably durable, OSB isn't too bad of a choice.

I just hate drywall. I did OSB in my shop at home and get compliments from everyone who walks in. I can see why some would want drywall, but it wasn't for me.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Properly fit, primed, and painted OSB can look pretty good.

OSB looks cheap and unfinished. Always.

 

[mike93lx]

If you want to put a screw anywhere and trust that it will hold, use 3/4 plywood.

That said, 5/8 vs 1/2 drywall won't change sound transmission. The insulation will do the most.

 

[MerlinsBeard]

You're missing one crucial benefit of OSB, the labor to install vs drywall. To me, drywall wins in all categories except labor.

If you plan to make this a finished space for a long time, I think it's worth going drywall. The hang anything everywhere issue can be solved (with more $) with additional wall control pegboard or some kind of wall mounted rail or slatwall system.

 

[Sweetcorn]

OSB looks cheap and unfinished. Always.

Sure thing, chief.

 

[mogandave]

What kind of temporary would you suggest? I think the whole wall, insulated and door and everything, might cost me $1000. I had a couple ideas for temporary partition using paneling or metal roof panels, but they added up to a few hundred, and I would have to eat that if I go back and want to make it permanent.

By the way, I was going to use a regular 2x4 as a bottom plate and use Tapcon screws into the slab. Should I use PT or a layer of plastic, or both?

One thing I might do is frame it using deck screws into the existing ceiling/walls (for easy removal), and just screw up drywall on the house side (not even mud it at first), and hang a curtain in the door opening. That would still be fairly easy to reverse, just about as cheap as any other partition, and I could always go back and mud+paint, insulate, and put on the garage sheathing if I decide to keep it. My concern is that if I do that, these things tend to go unfinished forever once I start using the space and wanting to hang things up etc.

I would build the temp with the same studs I would use for the permanent. Cover it with plastic or cardboard. You'll know pretty quick if you're going to hate it.

 

[jpaw]

Personally I would hang a tarp for a week to see if you are even okay with the divided space. You seem kind of unsure...

Before you get all crazy worrying about sound proofing the wall. What is in the attic and is it open to the house attic in any way?
My garage attic is uninsulated and the house is blown in cellulose with a 2x5ft hole between the two. The noise transmission through the attic is crazy.

A simple 2x4 wall with rockwool and sheetrock would be more than adequate for your needs. If the garage is finished sheetrock then that is what I would use.
If you really want osb on the shop side go for it.

 

[jpaw]

I understand that this is Garage Journal but it still amazes me how much we over engineer and over think finishing our man space.
The discussions we have about insulation, sealing and finishes leave me thinking that our garages are better sealed and insulated than our homes.

This is not directed at anyone, just a funny observation.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Cinder block is the way to go for OP's wall.

 

[dcg9381]

We OSB'd the shop. In terms of insulation/sealing, we don't depend on the wall itself to do that. Course, we used spray foam, so it's moot.
The "big" advantage to me of using OSB is that I can remove it in 4x8 sheets and get back behind that wall if I need to.... This is a big advantage when I want to add circuits, sub-panels, water, etc to the shop.

I think it looks fine (painted) in a wall for a shop. I've seen it used in "rustic" homes (rentals) when coated... Meets my appearance bar.

 

[Hank11]

I don't get the objection about dry wall being easily damaged - dry wall is so easy to repair. It can get beat up, but then can be brought back to 100% with simple cheap tools and barely skilled labor. OSB never looks 100% starting from day one.

 

[Glemon]

As noted, finally, after a ton of comments, the biggest difference between drywall an OSB is the mudding and taping. When I told my wife I was going to do the garage shop in OSB, she pushed for drywall because it would look better. Having worked on the project a long time already, I wanted to just get it done, so asked her if she was going to mud it.

I think OSB painted stark white looks pretty bad, but add a little color, mine is light gray, and it looks much better than white in my opinion. I had to use drywall for the partition wall with the house for code, was a royal pain. I am perfectly happy living with the OSB, and if I had it to do over again would go the same route. I would out it up with screws instead of ring shank nails though.

 

[Sumboodie]

Cinder block is the way to go for OP's wall.

Do they still even make those? All I've ever seen are concrete blocks. IE CMUs

 

[johnharris]

I'm in the process of throwing OSB in my shop. I just finished the ceiling. After I'm done making the rafter vents and filling the attic with cellulose I'll start the walls. Same as the ceiling I'll screw the OSB onto the walls to make future removal easier. After the walls are done I'll throw several gallons of kiltz oil based sealant on ceiling and walls. I'll then just throw white ceiling paint up top and do a light grey for the walls.

I'm using blue ribbon OSB . It's made by Georgia Pacific and sold at Lowe's. It is smoother than the Louisiana Pacific they stock at HD down here. After sanding with 80 grit using my angle grinder it is nice and slick.

 

[bobkat]

I'll go against the grain here and say my preference is OSB. Properly fit, primed, and painted OSB can look pretty good.

If you are going for more of a showroom than anything else, you should do drywall. If you want to put the effort in to make it look nice and have something that's reasonably durable, OSB isn't too bad of a choice.

I just hate drywall. I did OSB in my shop at home and get compliments from everyone who walks in. I can see why some would want drywall, but it wasn't for me.

Same I did OSB in my shop fitted tight 3 coats of bright white with bottom 4 ft dark grey, everyone thinks it looks great. My house garage is drywall.If you actually do a lot of work in your shop, I think it is more durable.

 

[bobkat]

OSB looks cheap and unfinished. Always.

Thats how I like it for tax appraiser, Cheap and Unfinished

 

[Metal-Marc]

As noted, finally, after a tin of comments, the biggest difference between drywall an OSB is the mudding and taping. When I told my wife I was going to do the garage shop in OSB, she pushed for drywall because it would look better. Having worked on the project I wanted to just get it done, so asked her if she was going to mud it.

 

[Dig Doug]

Would it even make sense to make an insulated partition wall and sheath it with OSB? Or would the leaks at the OSB seams defeat the point?

I have a 2-car garage with 2 roll up doors and a post in the middle.

I'm fixing to turn one bay into a shop by framing a 2x4 wall right down the middle, swallowing the post in the process. I will put an exterior-type pre-hung door in the partition. I might as well insulate the partition wall so I can regulate the climate in the shop in the future (the exterior walls of the garage are already insulated.

Because I want to insulate the partition wall, that makes me think I should use drywall. Because that's all I've ever seen before. And I suppose the drywall allows you to fully seal the joints.

Drywall benefits:

• Looks like a real wall, not a homeowner hack-partition
• Deadens sound better
• Better fire block
• Better insulation because of fully sealed joints
• Fragile, will probably look beat up in a few years
• pain to hang things because you have to find studs

OSB benefits

• Same price as drywall
• Hang anything anywhere (shelves, bike hooks, etc.
• Makes a stiffer wall
• Looks ugly and leaks drafts at the joints

Now for the really crazy thinking...what about using drywall on the "house" side and OSB on the "shop" side? I also thought about installing OSB blocking between the studs under the drywall for hanging, or even putting drywall over OSB...but that would be twice the price.

WHY In the HELL would you cut your garage in half!

you talk about materials
but
WHY make your shop / garage SMALLER makes no sense to me…

Insulate the entire garage & use it FULL SIZE!

the material cost to build the wall and dour and lock set trim etc will be more than just insulation and some sheeting!

what ever you decide paint it gloss white to make it as BRIGHT as possible!
plan it out add your lights, outlets, air lines, blocking / backing for shelves etc before sheeting

NOTE -
if going drywall don’t USE texture ( a SMOOTH wall IS better ) just give it a good 2nd coat or a really nice 3rd coat on all joints, you want as flat as possible spread out the seams as much as possible

texture catches any and all dust and makes the space dirty and difficult to clean

 

[Dig Doug]

If you need to stop sound do more research on sound transmission build a 2nd wall staggered studs lots of insulation between house and garage and double up the insulation add a sound board / fiber board then drywall!

Try to eliminate any sound vibration, hard floors, ceiling & walls just transmit sound need to soften that

hang a heavy curtain - moving blankets etc along the wall, that will absorb the sound - add carpet throw rugs etc

set your machines on rubber bushing or mats , like a work out flooring, hang something temporary along the back side of your machines while running at night

 

[drmarkr]

For just a little more than 5/8 drywall, taped and textured, you can put up tongue in groove plywood. That's what I did and it is awesome to be able to hang anything, anywhere you want. Just do it.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

WHY In the HELL would you cut your garage in half!

you talk about materials
but
WHY make your shop / garage SMALLER makes no sense to me…

Insulate the entire garage & use it FULL SIZE!

This is a good point but
--I need space for an office that I can close.
I can't take over the whole garage for my office because rest of the family needs to go in/out. It needs to be a space that's not a throughfare
--Not easy to heat/cool the entire garage. Takes a lot more capacity, plus the in/out thing. I already tried running heaters but it takes a big one and gets defeated every time that big roller door opens. Small spaces are really easy to heat.
--my machines are noisy, generate dangerous metal chips that spread all over the garage (thus house), have dangerous chemicals etc. These need to be locked away from increasingly mobile and curious toddler. Short of getting rid of all my hobbies a lockable hobby room is the responsible solution.

If I cleaned it all out, it should remain functional as an actual 2-car garage even with the partition wall. So I don't think it's a resale value killer.

 

[MD64x]

My 20x24 garage had osb on the interior walls and ceiling with some really big gaps in some spots, hated the look of it. I used a whole 5 gallon pail of the kilz premium primer (gold can) for the first coat and it covered really well. That primer is thick and pours like syrup, filled in a alot of the imperfections. I caulked all the gaps between the sheets and then did 2 coats of semi gloss behr i300 interior paint on everything and it turned out better than I expected for sure. Here’s a picture of how the kilz was covering during the coat of primer, second picture is after I did the edges on the second coat of paint, you can really see the difference between that first and second coat of paint, and last is a close up of the finished product. Definitely not smooth like drywall but I think this beats drywall in a garage/workshop any day. Highly recommend that kilz premium as well.

 

[Slednut]

If you make sparks use dry wall, if you want sound proofing use rockwool insulation.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I insulated my partition wall. Drywall and vapor barrier on the side I keep warmer. Plywood walls on the space that is my working/parking area.

 

[ipgenie]

I bought 3/4 toung and groove flooring when a local dance studio closed. It was already painted gray and after the labor of removing it, I got it for $10/sheet.
I'm putting that on the walls in my shop, caulking the seams.

I ran across a local potato cellar that insurance was replacing the white metal on. Some sheets had been damaged by wind but the rest were still in great shape. I offered the roofer $0.60/linial foot (36" wide ribbed steel) for the metal and they removed it and stacked it for me to haul home.
I'm putting that on the ceiling and walls over the OSB. The existing holes in the metal won't be a problem since I can screw anywhere to the OSB.

I'm putting composite deck boards down as a baseboard, glued to the floor to seal it with the metal running up the wall above it. I should end up with a great wall/ceiling that was affordable and is easy to clean.

 

[rayra]

OP needs to hold a sheet where he wants his wall and have the missus try to get out of her car door. The single stalls likely won't be wide enough for a solid wall.

 

[HogDude]

Another thing I thought of is using 5/8 drywall for more sound deadening, hanging strength, and fire block. Does that sound like a good idea?

In this crazy world, that's actually more expensive per sheet than OSB.

Maybe take a look at Rockwool insulation. I think it offer good specs for what you are asking.

 

[Glemon]

Responding to the initial question if I am reading it right, you are proposing an insulated partition wall in your garage framed with OSB. First, how high is the wall? If you buy OSB the height of the wall and put it up vertically the seems will all be on the studs. Between that and the insulation behind and the fact that it is not a true exterior wall (no wind) I would not worry about heat loss through the seams.

I have the same setup in my larger garage, except I don't have any insulation in the partition wall. I don't heat it all the time, but when I do it heats up fine. Your biggest heat loss will likely be your garage door and the cold concrete floor.

 

[TimRich]

Frame like it will be inspected: use a treated bottom plate and the foam that is typically between the wood and the concrete. Frame it short, not tight. I've fixed walls or re-fit doors where the lower floor walls were forced. Caulk the bottom plate to the floor if you're putting any flooring in the converted area (one pipe-burst or water heater leak and you'll be wishing you had!)
If it's a 'temporary' thing that you want to take down, don't plaster the corners; use a piece of trim that looks good (it's a garage office).
Regarding noise suppression: there is a LOT of information available. IF there is a LOT of noise on the other side of the wall, then think about noise suppression in the wall. If not, the rockwool/sheetrock will suffice. Next level is stagger studding from a cost perspective. HOWEVER, if there is a roll-up garage door, that will be source of sound for certain. In one garage like you're suggesting, the 'office area' was a 7' area with sheetrock/polyISO with foil (a tremendous thing in any garage) and a 'shop/storage' behind that wall to the roll-up door. Upon moving, the owner removed the temp wall that made the 8' separation. (Thinking if you have an office area and a lathe. . . well, I know how much MY lathe work creates.)
Resale value is a funny thing: I've removed things because realtors said "this will not sell the house" and then seen later that what I un-did the new owner re-did. Odd thing, realtors once said 'paint it all white', then they said 'accent walls' then they said 'neutral colors'. I've undid garage conversions, refreshed garage conversions, and converted garages. The market is not cookie-cutter. WHAT I REGRET: not doing for my family because 'resale'. If it suits your needs and you can afford it, do it, but do it well, do it right, and enjoy it.

 

[qdvuu]

• pain to hang things because you have to find studs

Since you're the one building the wall just make marks on it where the studs are. The marks could be ink or some physical protrusion like a screwhead. This way you'll always know where the studs are.