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Another Sealer Topic

Mike951

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I know there have been many threads on here about sealers...and I know what the search function is. However, I have a question that I could not find an answer to from past threads:

After much debate, and deciding to just leave my floor "raw", I am once again thinking I should seal it. I will be doing oil changes, working on cars, etc in the garage (residential). Originally, I was going to put down an acrylic sealer, but decided against it because I don't want to re-apply every few years, and I don't want to run the risk of the floor looking worse than if I did nothing. Also, it is my understanding that an acrylic sealer won't resist oil, so why bother.

I am looking for a product that will stop oil, etc. from soaking in, preferably non-topical, doesn't need to be re-applied very often, AND gives some sheen.

AND Won't burn a hole in my wallet!

Suggestions please!


Thanks
Mike
 
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knagy389us

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Sounds exactly what I was looking for in a floor coating. I just did H&C solvent based acrylic tinted sealer. Other than me going a shade too dark, I think it looks great, is way better than raw, and I wasnt aware it had to be redone every few years.

I plan on using my garage for the same purpose as you stated. Hoping to yank the motor out of my GTO right after the holidays, so that'll be the real test after rolling around the engine puller, and surely christening the new floor with fluids :bounce:
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Topical products present a barrier to the spill. Without the barrier you will get a stain.

We have an acrylic sealer that will resist oil all day long.
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd6414-acrylic-sealer-5-gal-p-263.html

You will not necessarily have to re-coat in a few years if used in a garage as it will gain protection from the elements. Sealers used outside take a beating from mother nature and therefore need to be re-coated.
 
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Mike951

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What are surface prep conditions for your -6414?

I'm working with a 2 month old power troweled slab, indoors as stated above

Any discounts for local Jersey guys?:D

Thanks
Mike
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Pressure wash or a light acid etch to break surface tension and allow some penetration.
Discounts??

Forgetabout-it!!

Of course, call in your order and you will get a deal.
 
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Mike951

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Any products that don't require floor prep?

Will acid etch ruin smooth finish from power trowel?
 

Edger

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I have never been a fan of acrylic sealers in industry, but for a garage they could outlast the home. In commercial or industrial applications they mostly wear away in 18mths from constant daily foot traffic, but that equates to a few decades of traffic wear in a garage!

Personally, I think epoxy is overkill, it still loses its high gloss quickly with wear and if anyone can treat their garage with kids gloves enough to retain its original high gloss over years they do not need an epoxy.

That does not mean I am against all the good suppliers here of epoxy, just putting a little perspective into the application.
 

ForceFed70

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Acrylic Sealers do a great job of resisting oil and gasoline. Where did you hear otherwise?

To prevent staining, you need a topical product. All topical products wear off eventually.

I just applied some acrylic sealer myself. Unless you use your garage a LOT, it will be years before you need to re-apply.
 
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Mike951

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I just want to put something down without having to do too much prep...It's just residential use, hobby-related car automotive work, I just want something I can put down in one day and be done with it....
 

Edger

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Go for Legacy's densifier.

These will protect the surface without preparation (as long as it is bare concrete without substantial dirt or oil) by penetrating, hardening and semi-sealing the top of the slab, maybe down to an inch. No need to recoat, concrete wears well without dusting, can be coated with a sealer or epoxy in later years, resists oil and water so you have time to wipe it up, can be polished/burnished to a nice shine if your finish is suitable and you pick the right densifier.

For more info see http://www.situp.com.au/Concrete Sealant Alternative.html
 
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Mike951

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I think I'm leaning toward an acrylic topical sealer. If I need to acid wash/etch before applying, and my floor has a smooth power troweled finish, will the etch ruin this smooth finish and leave my floor rough? Can I just make sure it is swept really well and apply?(garage hasn't been used since slab cured, so it's pretty much completely clean.) Or will that leave me with adhesion issues?
 

les_garten

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Mike951

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Just ordered Legacy's HD-6414...plan to put it down this weekend when temps are around 60.
 
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Mike951

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Scotty - Is there a certain direction this product should be applied.

How about second coat, and certain direction to applying that?(perpendicular to first coat, etc.)

Thanks
Mike
 
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Mike951

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What is the best way to etch the floor? How is the muriatic acid applied? With a roller?

How do you know you washed it off good enough?

I don't wan't all the runoff coming out of my garage so I was planning on mopping the floor several times. Will this work good enough?

Any other options for prepping the floor for the 6414 without using acid

Thanks
Mike
 

LegacyIndustrial

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What is the best way to etch the floor? How is the muriatic acid applied? With a roller?

How do you know you washed it off good enough?

I don't wan't all the runoff coming out of my garage so I was planning on mopping the floor several times. Will this work good enough?

Any other options for prepping the floor for the 6414 without using acid

Thanks
Mike
Mike, there are no short-cuts in coatings. Prep it correctly or there can be consequences.

We tell our customers to use a pump-up sprayer, all plastic construction, try THD or Lowes.

Yes, muriatic acid.

If you are worried about getting it all off, neutralize with baking soda, one cup per gallon of water , use this as your first rinse water.

Once neutralized it will be safe for run-off.

A grind would be a suitable substitute.
 
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Mike951

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Is it necessary to use a power washer to rinse after the baking soda rinse? Or will a garden hose with spray nozzle be enough to do a few rinses.

Should I be concerned about muriatic acid fumes getting on my garage doors and tracks?

How will I be able to tell the acid did it's job?
 

les_garten

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Is it necessary to use a power washer to rinse after the baking soda rinse? Or will a garden hose with spray nozzle be enough to do a few rinses.

Should I be concerned about muriatic acid fumes getting on my garage doors and tracks?

How will I be able to tell the acid did it's job?


I use Muriatic acid all the time. I get it on me, and all kinds of other stuff. It dilutes quickly with water. It neutralizes quickly with baking soda, not that big a deal. You are diluting it to begin with. Just hose down anything "above" the surface with water fro a minute or so and it is gone and rendered harmless by dilution.

If you are spending hundreds of dollars on sealer, and the clean-up of a failure would be more money and time and effort, just do it right the first time. IMHO

BTW, the best place I found to buy Muriatic acid is Home depot in the Pool section. 2 gallons for $9.99 I think. Don't get the "Green" safer stuff. Get the stuff with the RED label and the skull and crossbones!
 

Jazz

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Newport News, VA
I was going to Epoxy my floors as well but have also decided to go with a sealer. This looks like a great product.
 
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Mike951

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Put the Legacy HD-6414 down yesterday, went pretty smooth. Used a 3/8" nap roller, and did 2 coats(approx 750 sq. ft.). Product dried very quickly(60 deg. F, sunny, low humidity). Floor has alot of gloss to it, and came out good. Now just hoping it holds up well in the garage, and hopefully does not hot-tire lift. I'll post a pic later tonight.
 
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Mike951

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I'll have to take some better pics, but here's what I have for now:
 

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Mike951

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Here are some during the day:
 

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