Another T1-11 siding ??

[clerihew82]

Ive been looking on the board be just haven't found the answer to my question. I am installing siding on the built in garage. The siding will go all the way from the eve of the house down to the concrete driveway. I did find out that you are not supposed to let it set on concrete. There is a 2x6 footer board setting on the concrete and studs are built off of there. If i nail the siding to the studs and not let it go all the way to the concrete what kind of trim board will i need on the outside on the bottom side on the concrete.

Sorry if im kinda confusing all of you

 

[IDASHO]

The siding doesnt need to be off the ground much.

And it certainly depends upon where you live, how the drainage is set up, and what kind of moisture the area sees.

If the drainage is managed properly, and the wall will not get drifted with snow, 1/2" to 3/4" of an inch is plenty of space between the concrete and the siding.

 

[clerihew82]

Ok what do you think of a trim board on the bottom against the siding down to the concrete

 

[IDASHO]

Only thing you would accomplish by doing that is creating a space for moisture to get trapped.

Dont do it.

 

[FunfDreisig]

Ive been looking on the board be just haven't found the answer to my question. I am installing siding on the built in garage. The siding will go all the way from the eve of the house down to the concrete driveway. I did find out that you are not supposed to let it set on concrete. There is a 2x6 footer board setting on the concrete and studs are built off of there. If i nail the siding to the studs and not let it go all the way to the concrete what kind of trim board will i need on the outside on the bottom side on the concrete.

Sorry if im kinda confusing all of you

If the 2x6 mud sill (what I think you are calling the footer board) is flush with the edge of the concrete slab AND the top of the slab is 4-6in above grade, then you can run the siding to just below the top of the slab. Holding it up 3-5 inches above the grade, whether it is concrete, grass etc.

BUT putting wood siding down close to the grade always invites some deterioration over time due to moisture. Make sure the siding is not subject to water splashing, etc.

Funf Dreisig

 

[1320stang]

Use T1-11 style Hardie Panel. It's not wood, it's cementicious fiberboard, won't rot or swell, would be fine agains concrete.

 

[hmc610]

Use LP smartsiding it has a warranty. T1-ll has none! Always had problems with this product.

 

[burger]

Use T1-11 style Hardie Panel. It's not wood, it's cementicious fiberboard, won't rot or swell, would be fine agains concrete.

I agree with the recommendation to use Hardi Panel. I have Hardi Siding on my garage and am very pleased with it. Somewhere way down on my "to-do" list I am going to replace my metal shed with a stick framed one sided with the T1-11 Hardi Panel.


Ed

 

[Kevin54]

Ive been looking on the board be just haven't found the answer to my question. I am installing siding on the built in garage. The siding will go all the way from the eve of the house down to the concrete driveway. I did find out that you are not supposed to let it set on concrete. There is a 2x6 footer board setting on the concrete and studs are built off of there. If i nail the siding to the studs and not let it go all the way to the concrete what kind of trim board will i need on the outside on the bottom side on the concrete.

Sorry if im kinda confusing all of you

I would use Hardi Board for a trim board, then caulk at the bottom so no water goes up against the sill plate. That's one reason I dislike something built on a slab...it's hard to get something correct without some type of water infiltration. I would also coat the sill plate with some type of a sealer (asphalt or otherwise) before installing the board over the top of it.

 

[Falcon67]

My shop slab sits at ground level. What I did was put on a perimeter band of 12" flashing that I nailed to the studs and it extends down the side of the slab a bit. I then put in a "footing board" all the way around of 1x4 pressure treated lumber rated for ground contact. The bottom edge of that is flush with the slab. The siding sits on that perimeter board - keeps it about 3 1/2" off the ground. And should the perimeter board get nasty from ground water, etc after a few years, I can take the decking screws out and replace it. The siding is the HardiPanel stuff.

PS - asked the contractor to put the slab above ground - they didn't. Pays to be there when the work is done, hard to do when you work way out of town.

 

[BillK]

Hew,
T111 works good as long as it does not get wet. If you were to look at the T111 on my detached garage, you would never use the stuff But ... the T111 on the house is more protected and has lasted 30 years with only one repaint ! One bit of advice for sure. Before you put it up, prime and paint the bottom edge and up the back side at least 2 ft. Also, prime and paint all of the edges that you will not be able to get to once it is installed.

 

[timewarp]

Another way to do it is to use cedar or pressure treated boards around the bottom and then use a Z strip on top of that with the t-111 over the z strip, if you use 1X8 cedar it will look nice and keep the t-111 up enough that it will last, also if the cedar does get some water damage you can replace it easily enough without having to replace the whole panel up the wall.

 

[kbs2244]

Even in North Illinois we like to see 6 inches of concrete between the dirt and the bottom of the siding for termite protection.

 

[dreamingmuscle]

PVC vinyl and aluminum Z flashing is what I would use. But for the extra cost of trim you might as well use hardie siding.

Glen
________
vaporizer answer

 

[tcianci]

Alumnium Z flashing will corrode if in contact with any new PT, just keep it in mind.

 

[fireball 440]

Use LP smartsiding it has a warranty. T1-ll has none! Always had problems with this product.

I agree LP smartside is a good product, 30 year warranty I think?