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(Another) wall covering question

zc15

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Dec 22, 2020
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SE Michigan
Hey y’all, I’m getting ready to insulate and finish out the walls and ceiling. It’s a detached stick framed structure that doesn’t have any floor drains. The (currently exposed) bottom wood sill plate is anchored to the concrete. I mainly use it for storage, work space, and storing cars.

The current plan was to do 1/2” drywall over 1/2” OSB. This will allow for a finished look while allowing me to hang things wherever.

I mainly do rinseless car washes, but was looking at doing a waterproof wall cover such as tin or vinyl wall sheeting.

Would the waterproof wall covering be pointless because the bottom plate would rot out if it saw lots of moisture?
 
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Sumboodie

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Sill plate is PT right?

A wash bay should have a knee wall (even just a few inches) and above all, a floor drain.
 
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zc15

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Dec 22, 2020
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433
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SE Michigan
Sill plate is PT right?

A wash bay should have a knee wall (even just a few inches) and above all, a floor drain.
Not sure.

Yeah, that’s kind of where I’m at. Sounds like it doesn’t make sense to spend the extra on the waterproofing until there’s a drain. Like I said I mainly do rinseless washes since I don’t have water out there yet
 

Sumboodie

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I'm not familiar with not using water to wash a car.

I normally just run through the $10 lazy wash in town or squirt it down with the hose if it's not freezing outside.
 
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zc15

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Dec 22, 2020
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SE Michigan
My wash method normally involves spraying off with a pressure washer, then using Optimum No Rinse diluted into a 5 gallon bucket with a grit guard.

Use a dedicated mitt for above the rockers.

Use the mitt on one panel (such as roof, door, quarter panel), then dry off with a microfiber waffle towel. Use the grit guard to knock any loose dirt off the mitt before moving onto the next panel.
Basically, it’s a wash method that is done body panel by body panel

I can live with spraying off outside then moving the vehicles inside to stay in the shade. I was just thinking that now would be the time to do the walls before I commit to drywall.

but it sounds like doing a full dedicated wash bay with knee walls and drainage would make more sense than just putting waterproof wall covering up.
 

no704

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I would at least paint red guard on the bottom foot or so. And lift the drywall 1/2 inch.
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
I would do your plan of drywall over plywood. I'd keep them up off the floor as no704 says. Then I'd use a pvc 1x6 as a base board gluing/sealing it to both the floor and the drywall. A piece of something like a pvc 1/4 round could then be glued to the top of the 1x6 to keep any splashes from just sitting in the flat top surface.
 

Viper98912

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GA
I'm assuming that your PT sill plate is on a raised concrete surface so it's off the floor -

If you're going to do OSB underneath drywall, then you may want to consider using thinner drywall, 1/4" or 3/8", to maybe save some $. But this may backfire as it appears that 1/2" might still be cheaper and I don't know if you'd run into screw head problems with the 1/4". Just an idea; depends on the "finish look" you're trying to achieve.

Also, if you need the bottom half to be waterproof (vinyl, etc), then you might as well skip the drywall and make the whole thing a nice finished piece of vinyl from floor to ceiling. Skip the mudding, sanding, painting, etc.

Or depending on the look you want, do the bottom half as vinyl or some other waterproof material, and do the top in a nice plywood, skip the OSB. Then leave the plywood raw, or paint it, or stain it.
 

nadogail

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Jan 23, 2009
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Coronado, CA
Have Green Board" drywall with a covering of FRP? If FRP is strong enough for the restrooms at Mickey Dee's, it should be OK for your use.
 
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