I know this has been asked a lot, but I'm having the time of my life getting a straight horizontal strip on my wall. I own a laser level, have a chalk line, but the problem lies within the taping itself. I can't seem to keep it straight when laying it. I'm at the point where it would almost seem worth it to just buy some vinyl or give up all together. Anyone have any suggestions?
Another wall stripe question
- Thread starter plplayer
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RAYJAY
Well-known member
you want to pull the tape like your pin stripping a car, point to point ..... stick the tape on beginning part of you wall and pull it to either a mid point tack it and then pull it the rest of the length of the wall or if the wall is short all the way end to end dont try to follow a line on the wall you will never do it let the masking tape be your straight line
Jeff
Jeff
z28snksknr
Well-known member
When I taped my stripes, I would "tack" the end of the tape, unroll about 2-3 ft. and use the edge of my hand (shaped like I was "karate chopping" the wall) to get the tape attached perpendicular to (and aligned with) the level line. Then work backwards to the "tack" point of the tape. Repeat at 2-3 ft intervals. The farther apart you go, the harder it is to maintain the level line.
I also went over and pressed / rubbed the edges of the tape to insure adhesion of the tape edges. It was suprising how much the tape was not adhered to the wall after the first pass.
I painted on plywood, so my edges are not as clean as on drywall, but I'd say 60-70% of the lines did not have any bleed over.
I also went over and pressed / rubbed the edges of the tape to insure adhesion of the tape edges. It was suprising how much the tape was not adhered to the wall after the first pass.
I painted on plywood, so my edges are not as clean as on drywall, but I'd say 60-70% of the lines did not have any bleed over.
StumpXJ
Well-known member
Mine are not perfect either, but I am the only one who knows I think. Once you start putting stuff back in the shop, it will hardly be noticeable.
~James
~James
buening
Well-known member
A little tip for after you have the tape down. For crisp clean lines, use a VERY small amount of clear paintable caulk on the edge of the tape that will be painted. This prevents the paint from seeping beneath the tape and leaving a rough looking edge.
Or just buy frog tape and chuck that blue stuff. I'd used frog tape several times and never had any problems with paint bleed. Better yet, it pulls off of the wall with no issues and won't pull off paint with it.
It costs a little more than regular painters tape, but it is well worth it.
It costs a little more than regular painters tape, but it is well worth it.
boiler7904
Well-known member
The other option is to paint the taped line with the base color and let it dry before painting the stripe color. Base color seals the tape edge eliminating seepage and blends into the wall leaving a crisp line when tape is removed.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
The thinner the easier to keep straight. The wider it is, it will start to bow midways thru if you pull it out to any length. If you don't pull it to a length and only have one or two feet out when you start to press it down, you will have a small jog at every place you press. Most parts stores carry thinline masking tape. You could use that to get your straight line, then place your wider tape over the edge. Even pinstriping tape would work if you could find it cheap enough.
If you have ever watched any car shows on TV where they are painting stripes, you will notice that the painter will tack down one end of the tape, pull it out for quite a long length, then lay it down using his eye as a straightedge. After it is lightly laid down, then you can go back and press it down by hand firmly.
Really with one inch tape, you should be able to pull out roughly 10' and keep it straight.
I gave up on the stripe idea and ended up purchasing today 3.5" fluted trim that I am in the process of painting to be my divider between the lower and upper paint sections. It ended up costing $0.82 lineal foot which for my small garage was less than $50 and hopefully end up giving a 3 dimensional look to the walls. Jerry
Stargeezer
Well-known member
Taping out nice looking lines is an art. I've done it on aircraft, boats and then our garage just recently. It tested my patients each time..and I have a high tolerance for this sort of work to begin with.. You develop techniques, learn the behavior of the tapes & paints and then use your eyeball. I guess it is eye/hand coordination and re-doing it until it looks good once you stand back. It's not for everyone.. and no shame in that..
purpony
Well-known member
i just painted my stripes last week. I first drew my lines out on the wall with a level and then had my wife hold one end of the tape and i went every 3 ft or so and stuck in to the wall and then smoothed it out. I tried to do a full length like pin striping but i found the tape would dip. Then from reading on this site, i painted over the tape with the wall color and then after it dried, went over it with my stripe color. It worked FANTASTIC!!!
I started over, decided I needed to float it out as well, since there were raised lines from what was all ready painted. I've tried the chalk and laser level approach. Now I'm definitely going to try with just a standard level. If I don't get it this time, I'll probably just pay someone else to do the job because I really like the look.