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Another welding table question - holes, slots, slats?

isuhunter

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Aug 27, 2011
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I'm going to build a 2'x3'x1/2" welding table with inspiration for many different people on this site. This is only a hobby for me and I will probably buy my clamps from HF. So far I really enjoy playing with my Miller 211.

I'm torn on the table top. I'm going to go 1/2". Here are the things I've built on my garage floor so far. JD garden tractor receiver hitches, Weight bracket for mower, sprayer for my mower and rebar tomato cages.

Do I get a table top with holes predrilled or slots? Do I use individual slats and have full length slots? I'm going to mount my vise in a receiver as well.
 
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kkroger

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Thick Flat Plate so I can just tack to it... I tack blocks and bars and such to fixture... then cut off and grind flat again...
 

sberry

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Some overhang and common clamps that you will get a lot of use out of. No holes or slots for a common garage table. Shelf underneath.
 

dr_clyde

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There is a fundamental difference between a metal table you weld on and a layout/jig table.

If you will be making many parts of the same configuration, or need to set up a lot of fixtures, the ability to clamp anywhere on the table is incredibly handy.

If all you want is a grounded table that you can weld on, skip the holes.

I personally have 5/8" holes 12" on center and that is plenty for me to do whatever crosses my bench.

For a table as small as you're describing, I'd probably skip the holes.

Sberry is correct, you want an overhang for clamping. Make it equal to the throat depth of your biggest c-clamp. 6" is usually plenty.
 

kazlx

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Tustin, CA
Build a relatively flat table with 4 legs, some overhang and maybe a shelf that won't get in the way.

Weld on that for a while and if you get good enough and care about something better, you'll already know what you want to build.
 

Lelandwelds

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That small a table could be three legged. A stout skirt helps keep it flat. Shelves collect clutter. I like bars to hang clamp. Leave an unpainted spot underneath to ground to. Will you really have just one table?

I prefer my vises on a post or column if welding. A vise on the workbench is fine for maintenance and general work.
 

zmotorsports

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If you will be using it for a production type environment I would probably put evenly spaced holes for clamping but otherwise I'm not a fan of holes or slats. I prefer a flat smooth table top and if/when I need a special locating tab for something it is nothing to tack weld one onto the table top then when done knock it off and flatten the tack with a flap disk.

I also like some overhang so I can sit up under it when welding as well as for clamping purposes. Mine has a 6" overhang.

One thing I am adamant about when talking about fabrication tables is overall height. I see too many that make them as tall as a standard work bench. I prefer my fabrication table to be slightly lower for two reasons. First so when TIG welding I can sit at a normal sitting height and not feel uncomfortable, usually 30"-32" to work surface. Second, if you have anything of any size on a tall fabrication/welding table then you have to get a step stool to reach the top. When I was fabricating ATV sand drag chassis they were in the 16"-24" height range and on my 32" I could still easily reach the top rail of the chassis to weld on while standing on the floor.
 
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ndnchf

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Since this will be a hobby welding table, keep it simple and skip the holes, slots etc. Will this be in your garage or something to roll outside to use? If in the garage, think about location and control of hot sparks. My simple garage set up up consists of a 1/2" steel table with a 3-sided sheet steel screen to contain sparks (In a former life, the screen was the skin on a washing machine). If needed I can tack weld jigs/clamps to the table. But often I uses a vise mounted on a brake rotor to hold things.
 

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FallibleFlyer

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Nov 18, 2011
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Arizona
I compromised by putting two slats for clamps. Also meant I didn't need help/machines to move the 1/2" top since it was three relatively light pieces.

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bdbecker

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I really like having slats on my table - helps you get a clamp in the right spot without having to re-position your project to an edge. Mine is made of channel because that is what I had, but plate would be better. I just use cheap c-clamps.

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If you really want a layout table, I think you'd be hard pressed to beat one of the Certi-Flat kits:

https://weldtables.com/collections/...elding-table-top-kit-most-popular-pro-top-kit

The only downside to those kits is the Strong Hand tooling you use with them. It seems to be a decent quality for the price, the cost can add up quickly depending on how many clamps and accessories you want.
 

DpSyChO

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Sep 16, 2006
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Blue Ridge Mountains of Southern Virginia
I made mine with 3/4" top plate, 5" overhang on two opposite sides and 7" on the other two just because the plate I used was a drop and slightly rectangle but I wanted the base to be square.
I laid out a 6" grid and drilled/tapped 1/2-13 then put set screws in so they are flush or barely below the surface to keep out weld splatter. The tapped holes have come in handy several times to clamp something down when welding instead of tack welding to the table. I can use a spare clamp set for the mill to hold stuff down if near the middle of the table or to hold jigs to the table.
 

sberry

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I understand specialty equipment but most asking here are generalists like myself. The bench does welding but as much or more general work.
I don't want the grit and skills thru it and don't really need the couple holes I blew in it 20 yrs ago.
4 inch overhang, a bit more with heavier plate. 1/2 is plenty. Mine are pieced cobble jobs, I wouldn't do it exact way again although the basic features and dimensions would be the same with slight mods.
 
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