Went to the local Orielleys the other day to buy a big tub of anti seize and the Loctite brand was like 20 bucks and an off-brand was like 6 bucks. The difference I could see was the loctite was made with nickle while the off brand was made with copper. I went with the off brand as the store clerk said they've not had any bad reports with it. What are you guys out there using?
Anti-Seize Lube
- Thread starter 69supercj
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Gotcha640
Well-known member
The nickel is important if you're using it on dissimilar metals, or if you need the higher temperature rating. The industrial repair shop I worked in only used the nickel for that reason, and I've been using a half empty tub from there for the past 8 years without making much of a dent.
In my opinion, I'd get the stuff that you won't have to question, since one tub will last a hobbyist a lifetime.
Google antiseize nickel or copper and you'll see all the differences and recommendations.
In my opinion, I'd get the stuff that you won't have to question, since one tub will last a hobbyist a lifetime.
Google antiseize nickel or copper and you'll see all the differences and recommendations.
Rookie2
Well-known member
The copper is/was used in some steering columns bearings to make a horn ground circuit. I don't know of it's use for anti-seize for moving metal. check out Locltite's web site , maybe there are answers there.
four.cycle
Well-known member
#133K permatex.
8 oz. can of it has lasted me for years.
8 oz. can of it has lasted me for years.
xyster101
Well-known member
I had a can of nickel for about 10 years. Now I have 2 cans of nickel because I lost one and then found it after I bought another. I think I only paid $9 for each. I am set for life. Not sure why paint doesnt cover this much stuff.
Posted by my Galaxy S3. Sorry for typos
Posted by my Galaxy S3. Sorry for typos
LumpyMusic
Well-known member
I think you could only cover half of Alaska. The other half of the tub would get all over your hands and tools.
Lump
Nickel anti-seize is good up to like 2400° where as copper is good up to 1800° The regular anti-seize is good up to a few hundred less than the copper.
smokeyburb
Well-known member
Permatex 80078, 8 oz bottle has lasted well over a decade. The brush doesn't reach all the way down to the material any more but there is still a lot of smeary stuff in there.
steel 35
Well-known member
I think this may be appropriate
I have a fetish with things you can "put things in"...
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RRmech
Well-known member
We had a big tube of nickle anti-seize for pinion and commutator end bearings, in large motor shop.
I have a quart paint can shaker. My neverseize dry out. I actualy add laquer thinner and then place in the shaker to get it back to it's former consistency. It works well. I'm sure you could stir it but the paint shaker works so well
padroo
Well-known member
Where I worked they had it in cans with a brush and it comes in spray cans also but I don't remember what type it was. Sometimes were were dealing with large items not just bolts.
sberry
Banned
Its probably so scientific I cant tell much difference but I have a can of nickel and maybe a can of something else but,,, there are really very few places the avg guy should be using it or much of it.
Ron Swanson
Well-known member
The nickel stuff is great to brush on the outside of a sliver door knob of someone you dont like.
Mine has separated a little, but still works pretty well...just have to mix it up with something longer than the brush from time to time.
bodydamage
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 56
Just be sure to adjust your torque values. As soon as you put anti-seize on there, you just lubed the threads. Most specs are for dry threads (in an automotive application anyways). Ask anyone who's had a plug blow out of a Ford Trition cylinder head.
toplessHO
Well-known member
antiseize is about like roofing patch(bull)
you get it on you when ordering over the phone
you get it on you when ordering over the phone
xyster101
Well-known member
mjoekingz28
Well-known member
I had thought the nickel to be toxic.
Copper came with a new oxygen sensor.
I think the regular grey kind of like WD40.......it really isnt the best at anything, but works well enough and wont really do any harm if it gets where it does not belong.
Copper came with a new oxygen sensor.
I think the regular grey kind of like WD40.......it really isnt the best at anything, but works well enough and wont really do any harm if it gets where it does not belong.
sberry
Banned
I was working on a nuke and there used to be someone would squeeze along between the wall and a tank and piss in the corner every day. So one day my partner says, watch this and we pant an imbed in the concrete with pure nickel nuke grade never seize, exact same color. We went back and look a couple hrs later and you could see the mess, it must have been a real problem, you could see where the beard and face wiped along the walls and he must have had it all over.
We had used about a pint and that stuff is nasty and we spent the rest of the day wandering around looking for the guy but we never found him. Maybe went home but ewe looked in all the change shacks and bathrooms, it must have been a brutal nasty mess.
LOL, my buddy's neighbor did that to a small metal shed that somebody kept breaking in and trying to steal ****. He heard them out there one night and before he could get out there, he heard the #$@%^&$#%^#@#$$# flying when the prowler realized he had a handful of anti-seize.
Needless to say, the shed hasn't been broke into since.
Spudland_Dave
Well-known member
Depends who you are...I use about a Pint can a year at home without trying too hard. If you figure I have a can out in my shop, one in my garage and one in my basement I bet I use even more then the single pint a year...even have an aerosol spray can of Anti-Seize...talk about ability to make a severe mess...
I put it everywhere. Personally I feel like people who DONT use anti-seize on cars & equipment should just not even touch cars & equipment...
TOOL FANATIK
Well-known member
The brand you use does matter. Some companies skimp on the metal to save $. There is of course no way for you to tell if a company lessened the amount of metal flake in their formula, until after high heat cycles you go to remove the fasteners and they're STUCK. When the paste dissolves the flake stays behind, but when there's barely any flake to begin with, there's really nothing there to prevent seize up. Makers should have to disclose percentage of ingredients in their formula right on their label, this way we can make an educated purchase. I'd assume loctite as well as other bigger brands would be less likely to skimp on the flake, or at least if they're doing it every one else probably is and worse....
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383 240z
Well-known member
I go thru a bunch of it. If it comes apart, anti seize goes on it. Farm equipment, back sides of wheels and hubs, EVERYTHING on my Jeep, would hate to find rusted hardware when I'm fixing something on the trail. That and tubes of grease. Go thru piles of those. A full tube at least every time I lube the knotter on the baler, 1/2 tube everytime I jump on the skid steer. Good news is I don't have much worn or damaged parts to fix. Keith
SteveH-CO
Well-known member
I put it everywhere. Personally I feel like people who DONT use anti-seize on cars & equipment should just not even touch cars & equipment...
If it comes apart, anti seize goes on it.
x2! I have owned my FJ40 Land Cruiser for 25 years, and when I re-disassemble a part, I'm always happy to see the antiseize compound I put on there years ago. Even happier to have the part come off readily. I buy the silver/nickel stuff at a chain joint that is less than $10 a can. I have never seen a performance difference in brands, but my needs are simple.
If it comes apart, anti seize goes on it.
x2! I have owned my FJ40 Land Cruiser for 25 years, and when I re-disassemble a part, I'm always happy to see the antiseize compound I put on there years ago. Even happier to have the part come off readily. I buy the silver/nickel stuff at a chain joint that is less than $10 a can. I have never seen a performance difference in brands, but my needs are simple.
Spudland_Dave
Well-known member
Same here...5 years ago I had to replace the CV Shafts in our Accord...had a HELL of a time beating the rusted CV Splines out of the hub. This spring I had to do wheelbearings & brakes, everything came apart with NO problem whatsoever... could easily pull the CV out of the hub by hand as if it were new.
I cant say I've seen a Long Term performance difference with various brands...5 years from now they all work the same....I notice the difference at time of application really. I've currently using a can of the Bostik brand Never-Seez, its very nice to use, smooth & creamy, perfect consistency.
R.Anderson
Well-known member
I use 3ml oral syringes and capped with a wire nut, works great as a applicator for small bolts up 1/2" easy. A little goes a long way and little to no mess. With aluminum anti-seize it draws up just fine, never use copper or nickel based anti-seize so could not tell you how well those draw up.
sberry
Banned
I have a real shop with a hundred pieces of equipment we owned for decades and use a pint in a decade.
Kroil like spray is what we use for assembly. Even submerged nuts come apart if they been sprayed. Its fast, clean and it works and is as good as it gets for bolt torque.
A little sot of spray for a brake hub and they don't stick any more than a gob of snot especially since we don't consider a drum in service to be a 1 shot deal. We do actually take apart the same equipment and I can tell when the spray was missed.
cwh
Well-known member
I use it on everything, and only have 2 cans because I lost the first one temporarily. A little goes a long ways, and I frequently just make a little dab with the brush and then spread it with a shop towel. You usually end up with about 100X as much as you need if you apply it to threads with the brush.
It works great for shotgun choke tubes, and anything that gets dunked in saltwater.
It works great for shotgun choke tubes, and anything that gets dunked in saltwater.
This is the only stuff I've used-----I haven't used a lot of it, but it seems to do the job.
http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wurth-cu-800-copper-anti-seize.html
http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wurth-cu-800-copper-anti-seize.html
coljar
Well-known member
Not too long after I bid over to the boiler house 20 some years ago, there was this old cranky boiler operator that wasn't particularly disliked, but guys would screw with him every once in a while. One time someone used nickel on both ends of the telephone receiver and then called him from the lab.................you know the rest.
One time someone used nickel on both ends of the telephone receiver and then called him from the lab.................you know the rest.
That one works well with mayonnaise too............
